Forces

WHAT! 1,200? That is outrageous. I bought a rust free Z that was in pieces and no engine for more than that. I should have held out for a better goddamn deal.

I have a Hurst (B&M Mega shifter rip-off) that is sunken into the tranny tunnle, and one thing that I have noticed and not heard anybody else comment on is the fact that my exhaust (2 1/2 duals) heats the shifter up to the point that it is uncomfotably hot to the touch. If you box it in, make sure that it is insulated and totally boxed in. Maybe wrap your exhaust, or something.

I agree. The pre-cut wires never fit right. It's pretty easy to cut the MSD wires to length, takes maybe 5 minutes per wire, not bad at all.

This is Oregon we're talking about here, the weather is lible to go from thunder strom to sunny back to thunderstorm in 15 minutes or less.

I'm in the same boat as the rest of you guys....Car's not done, End of June? I might beable to squeeze out the entire interior and engine break in by then...Sounds cool though, I didn't know there was anything like that here in Oregon. I often think of this place as being rather disconected from the rest of the vehicle modification world.

jgkurz, do you know if they allow veh's with shaved handles? I talked to some guy at PIR, he said no, I asked about a window net, and he didn't seem to be very helpful.

Bartman, I have seen that photo before, the gauge combo looks awsome, good work. Thanks for posting up the part number on those. Did you end up using the 'optional' LED lights on the speedo and tach? I too have wondered about turnsignal indicators....

No, I didn't mean to say that MY headers are black, they have a typical aluminum finish, as described above. I was just inquiring on the efficacy of using different colors (types?) of ceramic coating.

5.0 using Holley fuel pump, pressure regualtor w/ dual out let. One outlet is going to the carb (heeee-yuk) and the other is going to an oil filled gauge. It feeds into an Edelbrock Performer 650 cfm auto-choke carb. At idle the fuel pressure surges between approx. 3 psi and 7 psi. But it doesn't do it right away. I'll fire up the engine, and the pressure is stable at about 5 psi. Then after about 30 seconds, maybe less the fuel pressure goes tits up. I bench tested the regualtor using a compressor, and the gauge seems to be reading accurately. I am thinking that the delayed reaction with the pressure fluctuation is related to the fuel bowls filling back up after the engine uses the fuel that was in them before starting it. The floats are set to Edelbrock spec 7/16". The metering rods and step ups are stock per edelbrock. Really bizarre, any ides?

JTR conversion, 383 with true dual 2 1/2's. The vibrations in my car are rediculous. It doesn't shake like it would with sold motor mounts, but it vibrates like crazy. The exhaust is really loud, which I will be toning down very soon, within the next few weeks, possibly today. Any how, has anyone else had this problem, what did you do to fix it. I have heard of people spraying the floorboards with areosole bed -iner, but I my case I think that would be useless. The engine runs fine, and like I said, the car doesn't Shake, per-say.

Lots of "annonymous" users here. I guess Oregonians don't last long in the automotive modification club....damn rain. I'm in Beaverton. Any of you guys ever hang out at Woodburn?

I'd like to get back to what ChemicalBlue was saying about the color differences. All of the ceramic coated headers I have ever seen for sale through a commercial copmany (i.e. Hooker, headman, sanderson, etc) have been silver coated, however My buddy got his headers coated is some run-down shack that were done in flat black. Is there really a difference in heat containment with different collors of coating? It doesn't seem to me that color alone would make a difference, as engine heat is not a product of a light source. Anyhow, thanks for the pics and info, very helpful.

I am sure some of you have tried wrapping block huggers with a JTR set back position. The thing that I ma debating is weather or not you can actuall fit the wrap on? The header- steering shaft clearance is very tight, and it seemes that if they touched one another, it would tear the wrap up. Also.... is there a way to tell weather or not headers are ceramic coated? I ordered a pair of coated summit brand block huggers for angled plug heads. My under hood temps are very high, and a part of me thinks that I got F***ed by Summit and they sent me a non-cearamic coated product.

Well, I am goin through all of my wiring again, and removing all the crap that I don't need, which in my case will be a LOT. How do you remove the pins from the conectors where the harnesses all meet together? I've tried reafing, cutting, pushing, and a lot of cursing, but nothing helps.

I agree with ezzzzzzz. They work, but they suck. If you tighten them too tight, you end up bending the exhaust pipe, and they never come undone because the pipes are crushed together, or if you don't tighten them enough, it leaks. Never used the 360 degree wrap around style clamp, seems kinda janky to me.

"f'real" it didn't make much sense, thats why i asked to clarify.

Where there is rust you can see, there is 5x more that you can't see. As stated before, pics would help.

I understand what you are saying, but maybe you could elaborate a bit for me. back pressure 'backs up' ino the combustion chamber, but with that restricted exhaust, won't there be a continuous lag there from the engine not being able to effectively release the exhaust gasses out the tail pipes?

"The following test was performed to demonstrate the ability of the inserts to increase H.P. and Torque. Note that the increase was not only at the lower RPM's but also in the midrange, which in a street application is the range at which most driving is done. Many performance mufflers will increase low range power through the addition of desirable back pressure, yet lose power in the midrange as the back pressure increases as a means of controlling sound." Take a look at the 383 cu chevy test numbers here. http://www.engineceramics.com/hardpart/ccinserts.htm What happens after 4000 RPM? What are the modifications to the 383? What size exhaust are they using in their test? How many bens and how extreme of an angle are those bends?.....I think we're looking at the work of a not-so-clever marketing spin-doctor. How might one claim that you can increase torque AND HP by adding "discs" into your exhaust? I ordered a pair to help quiet my car down, but after looking at them (not installing them), it seems that they would be REALLY restrictive. They had a solitary review from some guy, who was likely an employee of Car Chemistry, that said they made his car louder and liked the product. No mention of any power gains/ losses in the review anywhere. I know people have mentioned using this product on this sight, but I would like to hear from those of you have have used them. It just seems like a bunch of BS to me.

While installing my cage I found that the stock datsun seats don't quite fit. I haven't welded the bars in yet, but I am looking for something that is a little bit narrower both on the seat cushion and on the back brace. I have no problem welding up some brackets for it, so that's not really an issue. Problem is, short of a fixed poly bucket, it seams that a lot of the aftermarket "racing seats" are a bit cumbersome. I'm not too worried about having a lot of legroom, I only 5'7". Anyone have the same problem? PS. For those of you who have searched and not found, the S&W 8 point will work in a 280Z, you just have to get a single-retractor style seat belt and possibly put 2 bends in the horizontal bar on the main hoop if your taller than 5'8" or so.

IMO, stay away from the edlebrock performer series. I have read (on this site) and other forums that when compared to other aftermarket square bores, they are pretty much junk. I have FOUND by using one that they are correct, not to mention that their tech dept. sucks. The guys you end up with on the phone are useless as tits on a boar and sound like they are reading right off of a 'trouble shooting' guide with no prior experience with carbs. "Some guy" told me that id your looking for a good carb, look for billet bodies. Something about billet aluminum being less pourous than cast aluminum and doesn't interupt the fuel flow. This will probably replace My edlebrock on an engine with a similar build to yours... http://www.barrygrant.com/demon/default.aspx?page=10 I think you might be a little overkill on 850CFM. Bigger isn't always better. With an engine pushin 500+ HP, spending $600 on a carb might not be a bad idea, if your buying a quality product.

Those spin tech mufflers might work if (when) I threw some taller tires on, but I am not to that point yet. I was thinking of using a magnaflow silver bullet http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=MPE%2D14416&N=700+115&autoview=sku AND the dynomax silencer http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=WLK%2D24215&N=700+115&autoview=sku on each side of the dual exhaust in addition to an H-pipe. I am not sure if that is overkill, though. I know I want to ditch the glass packs for sure.

If your willing to spring for the shipping go for it. I just bought a MIG from sears for quite a bit more than that....had I seen that TIG I would've just drove down there.

I am running dual exhaust on an SBC conversion, but my exhaust sucks right now. No H or X pipe. Glass pacs. not madrel. Enough said. So I am going to use what I have as a starting point. The glass pacs sound awful and they are way too loud. I am looking for something that is low profile, for tight spots. I was thinking of the magnaflow 14" case 4" round with perforated straight through design...but I have heard they are pretty loud too. I am just looking for something that fits 3 criteria. 1. Something that fits. 2. won't attract too much attention for the fuzz. 3. has a good flow rate. Not 'top of the line', but not choking the engine. I will be adding an H pipe, x pipe just won't fit. at least not without some serious surgury and total loss of ground clearance

I recently purchased a Craftsman 110 MIG gas/gasless welder. It came with a spool of flux to get you started, which was helpful, in a way. After putting down a few beads, I hooked it up to my buddy’s gas cylinder (75% argon, 25% CO2). The welds were infinitely better. No spatter, better penetration, and less popping to keep the gun steady, not to mention that you didn't have to wire wheel or grind the welds afterwards. The only thing that made it more difficult was that the power setting was more sensitive. Thinner metals would burn through with the argon, where the flux would not. How do you determine the right setting/ WFS with gas vs. flux with different gauge metal?