Al Keller

Mike, My plan is to use the g-nose, flared fenders and air dam and tall rear spoiler. Can you explain in more detail what features need to be incorporated in a belly pan to avoid the short flight and hard landing? Thanks, Al

Has anyone found aerodynamic information on the IMSA GTU cars? I'm interested in a belly pan. It seems like you could really "shoot yourself in the foot" if you did it wrong. You could end up with a really good airfoil. Any information would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Al

Michael, I'm going to start construction of the chassis for my car and will use a 351W. It looks like the crank center line will be about 12" off the floor(With 24.5" tall tires) - the bottom of the scattershield looks like the lowest point on the car. I'll line the center line up with the differential input. If there is room in the tunnel, I'd like to off-set the motor 1/2 to 1" to the passenger's side. Unfortunately, it's too early to tell if I'll have hood clearance problems. Please keep me informed if you get any info concerning this conversion. Good luck, Al Keller akeller@neo.rr.com

SpenZ, There was an article in the Jan 1989 Circle Track called "Charting Your Chassis" that showed one way of fastening the chassis down to obtain stiffness numbers. Basically, they chained the chassis to the jig in the rear-end area and used a long beam to torque the front end. The measurements were then converted from inches to lb-ft. I just got a scanner and could TRY to send or I can copy and mail or fax the info if you're interested. Al Keller

Spencz, Can you explain more of the details of your new tunnel? Can you send pictures? Thanks, Al

Thanks for the information. I had seen Pete's web site - he has been very helpful. Right now, I'm leaning toward a full 2x3 chassis reinforced with a cage from S&W or Jeg's. Al

Hello, I've been following this site for some time with great interest - learned a lot but still have many questions. When done, my 72 will be a replica of one of the IMSA GTU cars like Bob Sharp's with a full chassis and cage, 408 Ford, 87 Vette suspension front and rear. So far, it looks like the suspension, wheels and tires will fit under the "wide body". My 1st question is: are you better off cutting the entire floor pan out or cutting around the chassis and welding the steel floor pan to the chassis? I'd like to have a car that can be driven on the street that doesn't "rattle" every time you hit an expansion joint!! Thanks for your help, Al Keller

Hello, I'm just starting my 72 project car that will feature late model (84 - 96) suspension front and rear. My plans include a chassis to carry the suspension and roll cage. I know Henry Costanzo from the GA Z Club used a Vette rear behind a 406 but don't know the details (don't have his e-mail address handy but can find it if you can't). Please pass along any additional information you find on this conversion. Thanks, Al