grumpyvette

do yourself a HUGE favor and buy and read these books BEFORE spending more money you really should get these books and read them before going any further, it will help a good deal http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1557882169/qid=1075079777/sr=2-1/ref=sr_2_1/102-1234339-0571324 http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/0912656042/ref=pd_bxgy_img_2/102-1234339-0571324?v=glance&s=books http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/0895861755/ref=pd_bxgy_img_2/102-1234339-0571324?v=glance&s=books http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/1884089208/ref=pd_sim_books_1/102-1234339-0571324?v=glance&s=books http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/1557883572/ref=pd_sim_books_3/102-1234339-0571324?v=glance&s=books http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/0760302030/qid=1075080362/sr=1-2/ref=sr_1_2/102-1234339-0571324?v=glance&s=books and after buying and reading the books I WOULD STRONGLY suguest you buy a 4.25" stroke ,6.385" rod 10:1 cpr rotating assembly and a cam similar to this http://www.cranecams.com/?show=browseParts&lvl=2&prt=5&Vehicle_Type=Auto&Cylinders=8&Engine_Make=CHEVROLET&Year=1985&Engine_Size=396-454%20C.I.&partNumber=134241&partType=camshaft with a dual plane intake youll have a tq monster that runs on pump gas keep in mind youll want a massive torque curve with a two speed trans and you won,t need to exceed 6000rpm to destroy the tires, in fact Id be surprized if street tires dont turn to smoke at anything between 2500rpm-6000rpm if you floor it regrardless of rear gear ratio heres more bbc info, but don,t let the guys make you think only oval port heads work well! it totally depends on your combo,s rpm range,displacement,gearing,weight,cam timeing,etc http://www.idavette.net/hib/vette_bbfh.htm http://www.protopline.com/racingaluminumbbc.asp http://fteufert1.home.att.net/bbchevy/bbchevy.htm http://roadsters.com/bbc/#prep'>http://roadsters.com/bbc/#prep http://roadsters.com/bbc/#bore'>http://roadsters.com/bbc/#bore http://roadsters.com/bbc/#oval'>http://roadsters.com/bbc/#oval http://www.chevelles.com/racing/BBCombo.html http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive/raceheadbbchev.html http://www.dragraceresults.com/worldcastings/ http://www.nastyz28.com/bbcmenu.html general big block info! http://www.amotion.com/cbb.html http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive/headbbchev.html http://roadsters.com/bbc/ http://www.teufert.net/bbchevy/bbchevy.htm http://www.chevelles.com/racing/BBCombo.html http://www.racingengines.com/public/sales/wrldprd1.htm http://www.holley.com/HiOctn/ProdLi...CP/Chevy30.html http://www.mortec.com/location.htm http://home.hiwaay.net/~ppatter/pat...udd_article.htm http://www.bigblockchevy.com/Bittne...Alky1500Hp.html http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive/7161pp.html http://www.onlineperformanceparts.c...les/ablock1.htm http://www.off-road.com/chevy/tech/454engine/ http://www.directhits.com/ChevyDynoReport.asp http://www.theengineshop.com/techinfo7.shtml http://www.dodgeram.org/tech/gas/specs/crank.html http://www.diabolicalperformance.com/diabolical540.html http://avs.epix.net/schorrperforman...hevyBB_290+.htm http://avs.epix.net/schorrperforman...ChevyBB_290.htm http://www.diabolicalperformance.co...mevalue468.html http://chevyhiperformance.com/techarticles/93650/ big blocks like more compression, bigger carbs and a slightly larger cam than small blocks if thats what your used to building btw http://roadsters.com/bbc/#bore

http://www.engineparts.com/products/Bearings.html http://www.engineparts.com/motorhead/techstuff/classes/bearings.html The P-Series bearings is Clevite's performance series. Since their development in 1929 these bearings have set the standards that other bearings copy. These bearings are designed to provide winning results, and are used in INDY, NASCAR, ARSA, NHRA and IHRA. Our recommendation is NEVER skimp on bearings. Clevite/77 Engine Bearings -- H-Series Race These bearings were developed primarily for use in NASCAR type racing but are suitable for all types of competition engines. H bearings have a medium level eccentricity. They feature a high crush capacity. Enlarged chambers for greater crankshaft fillet clearance. These bearings are made w/o flash plating for better seating. Use H bearings w/aftermarket performance steel crankshafts that have oversize fillets & where engines run in medium to high rpm range. If you buy a new crank with .125 radii these bearings are a must for rod clearances. http://www.flatlanderracing.com/clevmrbearings.html http://www.engineparts.com/motorhead/techstuff/comp.asp http://www.babcox.com/editorial/us/uhs89734.htm http://www.thirskauto.net/BearingPics.html http://www.jimcookperformance.com/TechNotes/TN%2022.html http://www.babcox.com/editorial/us/us90126.htm

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=44567 this is the welder my brother-in-law purchased yesterday, at about $130 in my opinion after useing it for a short time, Id say its a good value, as ahobby style welder PROVIDED you only want to do or weld light welding applications like HEADERS,EXHAUST SYSTEMS ETC its a welder with a wire feed from a spool and it plugs into 110 ac outlets, so its good for hobby welding ITS NOT ABLE TO DO HEAVY WELD JOBS, EFFICIENTLY. if your looking to do frames and roll bars ID look elseware fast! would I buy one?? NO! simply because its too limited in applications it handles, yet if your looking for a dirt cheap welder for exhaust systems its not a bad deal this is a beter deal really http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=43025 but your NOT looking at the QUALITY of the BETTER BRANDS LIKE MILLER,ETC. HERE EITHER 1985,1992,1996 vettes keep the rubber side down and the

ok youve assembled the short block and youve got the torque wrench to measure the rotating assembly resistance to turning, what should you be looking at to see if its correctly assembled? 19 lbs-25 lbs is EXCELLENT for the total rotating assembly including rods and rings,in a short block, for a rotating assembly on a street style engine with the rings dragging the cylinder walls/all the bearings installed and torqued in place low drag rings on a race engine can drop that into the 10-15 lb range but youll seldom see that with standard ring tension,and clearances most correctly assembled engines require slightly more than that to get them started rotating,(anything under about 35 lbs is normal, exceed 40-45 lbs and you should start checking clearances like rod side clearance, thrust bearing,crank straitnes and main and rod bearing clearances and the assembly lube used also effects the result,(of course once they start moving the required torque drops to keep them moving but I think youll find many engines require about 30 -35lbs to get them started rotating before the rings and bearings lap in)

I sold my old car trailer (LIKE A FOOL) now I want to build a new ONE! wheres the best place to get detailed DIY BUILD PLANS or a KIT to build a car trailer?? heres plans but Im looking for options http://www.tjtrailers.com/store/car-carrie...lans-18x80.html http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/sto...productId=32442

climbing tree stand a device that allows 250lbs guys to sit in trees like a squirrel while waiting for really stupid deer to walk by, allowing large old bored guys to process them into venison thru the use of a bow or handgun and hours of hard work! usually the process involves paying for licences and feeding clouds of mosquetos or freezing and getting rained on, its called "HUNTING" by some or "SUPPORTING ALL THE LOCAL SPORTING GOODS STORES AND MAIL ORDER HUNTING CATALOGS" bye my WIFE

my wifes IDEA of fun is stopping at yard sales, and yeah I get dragged along sometimes while 90% plus of the items offered are JUNK , and many times its a wasted afternoon,there are rare jewels to be found! I purchased 3 separate timing lights for a total of $5 I purchased a 100 ft extension cord with drop light for $4 like new chrome sbc valve covers,$10 (2 sets) weiand single plane intake for a SBC,$40 like new condition 6 ton jack stand (one $1) complete set of welding torchs,(broken gauge but otherwise new looking ($16) climbing deer stand $45 engine crane, (new in box used once ($100) assorted wrenchs ($5) 350 chevy engine,under a tarp next to garage(take it its yours!(free) turned out to be a 383 with a cracked head, block,etc was ok! so while its not really FUN,it can be usefull to look over the sales the wife drags me too on occasion! anyone else find any reasonable stuff!

heres an option http://victorylibrary.com/mopar/baffle.htm BTW ,IF I built a pan like that ID BRAZE the bolts to the pan to seal the potential oil leak points and to make sure no parts came loose but I would also design the screen as a removable center section by having its edges fit into a small channel bolted and brazed to each side of the oil pan, so that it was bent to snap into place and sprung back into the channels durring use, and use a few cross braces carefully centered under the main caps to keep it ridgid

http://www.popularhotrodding.com/tech/0311_phr_power_squeeze/ http://www.empirenet.com/pkelley2/DynamicCR.html http://victorylibrary.com/mopar/cam-tech.htm http://victorylibrary.com/mopar/otto.htm http://victorylibrary.com/mopar/deck-height.htm http://www.csgnetwork.com/compcalc.html http://naca.larc.nasa.gov/reports/1925/naca-report-205/ http://www.e30m3performance.com/myths/more_myths1/comp_ratio/comp_ratio.htm http://www.ecen.com/content/eee7/motoref.htm http://www.hotrod.com/tipstricks/34219/index5.html http://naca.larc.nasa.gov/reports/1926/naca-report-232/

I was asked," whats the differance between 2,4, and a splayed bolt block" on a normal chevy engine with 4 bolt main caps the caps look like this, notice the front cap is a two bolt main cap which is normal even on four bolt block where all the other caps have four bolts on a two bolt block all the caps look like the front cap like this block below racing blocks have SPLAYED 4 bolt main caps like this which are even stronger BTW you can CONVERT standard two bolt blocks to SPLAYED 4 bolt with a KIT and a MACHINE SHOP to REFIT AND HONE THE MAIN CAPS theres MILLIONS of guys running 350 two bolt blocks with few problems, if your block has only two bolt caps you have two options, you can add ARP studs if you want to increase the caps holding strength about 30%-50% or you can convert that two bolt block to splayed 4 bolt caps if your really concerned , but unless your over about 450hp I would not be even slightly worried http://www.flatlanderracing.com/callies_maincaps.html http://www.flatlanderracing.com/maincaps_oliver.html ARP ,two bolt main cap bolts will work ok at the 450hp level but heres some splayed caps, if your interested, be aware that your going to spend between $400-$550 in most machine shops by the time you figure on the $200 for the caps themselfs and added to the machine work expense, to get them correctly installed on a 2 bolt block,in your case its more than likely wasted money, but if you feel better knowing they are there...... well all I can say is I bite the bullet and get them installed simply because with everyones plans changing over time and a shot of nitrous as a future option in most high performance engines they add a good deal of strength this is a great example of project cost creap, yes youll more than likely NEVER use the extra strength, and yes its more than likely wasted money, but many of us just look at it and say, hell, its a good investment in the bottom end strength... and Ill feel better knowing their there!, the money would be better spent in almost every case on better quality rods in most cases simply because rods and rod bolts fail far more often than caps do! its insane in most cases to go to the expense of splayed caps on the block if your still running stock connecting rods, invest in good quality (H) style rods with 7/16" ARP rod bolts and a STEEL CRANK before worrying about SPLAYED MAIN CAPS http://www.racenet.net/eng/arp-main-studs.php HERE the STUDS that should be used to replace the stock main cap bolts, they ate far stronger, ... don,t forget a good MILODON windage screen and a high volume oil pan, they are very important to insuring long engine life at high rpm levels theres more info here http://forum.grumpysperformance.com

WELL PERSONALLY I think its a NO BRAINER! Ive used PLATES in swaps done at some of my friends shops, in my opinion they flat out are dangerous and very difficult to use compared to a good engine tilter like this one below, while the plate seems attractive at $8 compared to $25-$30 or more for a tilter/leveler I have seen the plates destroy manifolds on two occasions by cracking carb mount pads and bending carb studs, especially if the intake is old with coroasion on the stud threads, (4)1/4" or 5/16" studs into aluminum intakes of questionable depth are no comparison to (4) 3/8" bolts into the cylinder heads, and the (4)head mounted 3/8" bolts are under shear and tension while the studs in the intake rely on the thread strength only I now bring my own tilter/leveler when going to a friends to do an engine swap and have YET to find anyone who after useing one that did not go out and by one! http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Disp...itemnumber=5402 LOOK THEY ARE ON SALE FOR $25, they are rated at 4000lbs vs 1250 lbs for the plate and they make life far easier durring an engine install at $25 they are a GREAT DEAL[/b] adding a swivel like this between the leveler and crane GREATLY AIDS THE ENGINES REMOVAL, DON,T GET STUPID or CHEAP, GET THE 3400lb rated one not the 1200lb size (REMEMBER YOULL BE UNDER THAT ENGINE SOMETIMES) youll need two of these rated at similar load strength

more good info http://www.stockcarracing.com/techarticles/82101/ http://www.alpharubicon.com/elect/tigbasic1.htm http://www.alpharubicon.com/elect/tigbasic2.htm http://www.popularmechanics.com/home_improvement/tools/2001/3/welding_basics/ http://www.autobody101.com/articles/article.php?title=Expanded+Welding http://www.autobody101.com/articles/article.php?title=Mig+Welding http://www.metalwebnews.com/howto/gtwelding.html

lt1 gave you good advise! many stock heads useing a stock valve train and springs, spring bind near .500 lift,and most stock heads don,t flow well over .450 anyway, almost all stock heads are getting close to or already having clearance problems with a .500 lift and 1.6 rocker ratios someware in the valve train. in short youll need to carefully check all clearances before running that cam and rocker ratio, yeah it might work but chances are good its getting close to having MAJOR PROBLEMS ESPECIALLY if YOU DON,T CHECK THE CLEARANCES AND VALVE TRAIN GEOMETRY OUT! I don,t use stock chevy heads if theres any choice given , theres just to many good aftermarket heads available ,what you pay may be slightly more but the results can be significantly better look over the TRICKFLOW aluminum heads and DART iron eagle heads, both can be a good value, if you can spend alittle more the AFR heads can be a good deal, keep in mind that a $300-$600 set of stock heads that require $600 extra in valve guide, rocker stud,clearance work,guide plates and valve job work plus porting yet still cost more and perform worse than a $970 set of aluminum 195cc TRICKFLOWS or $800 dart iron 200cc-215cc heads, ESPECIALLY IF A FAIRLY LARGE CAM is installed that requires the extra airflow to preform at its best! it makes little sence to install a 275cfm intake and 6500rpm cam on heads that stop flowing at 4500rpm and stall at 200cfm of flow its VERY easy for a good set of aftermarket heads to make 40hp-70hp more than reworked stock heads, keep that in mind when the first sticker shock hits then carefully price the additional work the stock heads require, youll suddenly see the aftermarket heads as at least a reasonable priced option if not an outright deal! http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=TFS%2D30400001 Bolt-on aluminum cylinder heads for the price of cast iron! Chevrolet: 327-350-400, 64cc, 1.26 in. diameter valve springs, 23 degree cylinder heads Trick Flow's 23 Degree heads are a direct high performance replacement for stock heads. For about the price of a good cast iron head, the Trick Flow 23 Degree head gives you the weight savings of aluminum--and more power. By simply replacing a set of GM iron 441 castings with a set of Trick Flow's aluminum 23 Degree heads on a 383 Chevy, the guys at Chevy High Performance Magazine picked up 67 more horsepower and 70 more ft.-lbs. of torque at the top end--with no other changes! $970.00

BARE heads almost always require aditional work like spring seats cut and a 3 angle valve job , clearance work,bowl and port clean-up and careful fitting of components, you can,t just drop valves and springs,retainers,studs,guide plates,rockers,ETC. and expect to get them to work correctly or the valves to seat fully the advantage to buying bare heads is that you get to custom build the valve train to your clearances and component selection and not waste money throwing away parts or redoing machine work,the dis-advantage (if you want to call it that) is that the total price will almost always be higher for a complete set of heads BUT THE FINNISHED HEADS AND VALVE TRAIN WILL BE CORRECTLY FITTED AND CLEARANCED AND USE BETTER QUALITY PARTS IF YOU KNOW WHAT YOUR DOING or deal with a machine shop that does if this is a street engine buying the assembled heads will almost always be the cheaper price in the long run, but on a serious racing engine starting with bare heads and a QUALITY machine shop is the better choice before you decide find out what the port and clearance work and additional parts cost plus labor and what you get for the extra expense? in most cases there is a significant advantage to buying assembled heads and saving some money if your not racing, but when getting everything correct is more important than cost, an attention to those last little details that make a few extra hp matter and results at the track are measured in hundreds of a second then use bare heads and do it correctly I rarely buy bare heads if its going to be a street strip engine because I can dis-assemble them and do most of the minor port work and clearance work cheaply, but I almost always purchase BARE heads and start from there if its a serious racing engine, simply because your kidding yourself if you think the best springs,retainers are used and exact clearance work gets done on production head assemblys

you need to buy and read at a ABSOLUTE MINIMUM books 3, 4,and 5 on the list HOW TO BUILD MAX PERFORMANCE CHEVY SMALL BLOCKS ON A BUDGET by DAVID VIZARD . JOHN LINGENFELTER on modifying small-block chevy engines how to build & modify CHEVROLET small-block V-8 CAMSHAFTS & VALVTRAINS BY DAVID VIZARD SMOKEY YUNICK,S POWER SECRETS trust me it will be the best money you ever spend!!!

http://www.chevytalk.org/threads/showflat.php?Cat=&Number=713945&page=0&view=collapsed&sb=5&o=31&fpart=1 look this over you need to buy and read at a ABSOLUTE MINIMUM books 3, 4,and 5 on the list

http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/sto...29&categoryId=0 my local machine shop charges $20 to press out and old u-joint and press in a new u-joint, theres 6 u-joints in a corvette, I own three corvettes now it will cost me $120 not counting the u-joints themselfs (another $120) to replace a single corvettes u-joints thats $240 with me installing and removing the drive/half shafts I bought the PRESS ABOVE simply because its NUTS NOT TO,I wind up owning the press and saving $20 buying it!! on the first job! all other jobs I save $120 each on!

all Im saying is that I personally don,t think they are worth the extra expence for the results, they work fine but I have not found them in my opinion to be worth the extra cost, you will need to make your own decision,but getting a few3-5 extra ho for about $100 more is not really what Id call a great return on invested dollars, a cam or intake upgrade for that $100 would tend to give better results

IM useing them NOW in my 383, personally I don,t think they are worth the extra cost, while they work fine they don,t appear to be giving me and big advantage over good quality standard rings other than slightly better leakdown percentage readings but they seem to allow more oil to burn, nothing bad understand, maybe a pint every 3000 miles, but quality standard rings have done better,yes they are worth a few extra hp, but not worth the extra expence in my opinion UNLESS your racing and need every last hp

the differance between the cams is that the crower will run smoother and pull better on the mid to higher rpm side, and have less strain on the valve train, as the ramps tend to be less harsh, youll tend to rpm the motor higher before valve float, youll never notice the differance in low rpm performance because either cam in a 383 will smoke the tires easily but youll sure notice the differance in idle and width of the peak torque curve, ( thats worth giving up a couple peak hp if any in my opinion) but the CROWER will easily out run the COMP GRIND useing NITROUS due to its LOWER PUMPING LOSSES and more efficient EXHAUST due to the longer duration and wider LSA

first pull up the center tab and input the 278/286 duration and 114 110 angles then calculate the result you should get an int close at 69 degrees abdc then input your other data on the other tabs your dynamic stroke should be about 2.82" then input the 64cc heads and -14cc piston dome and .040 quench heres where you get the dcr software for those guys reading this that don,t understand what we are talking about! http://cochise.uia.net/pkelley2/DynamicCR.html

iskone? are you useing ADVERTIZED 278/286 duration, or 230/238 DURATION and valve timing figures at .050 lift figures, what other specs and which cam ? If I use a .04 head gasket 14cc dished piston and 64cc heads, because I get 10:1 scr and 7.8:1 dcr with the crower cam, 0.0 deck and a .040 head gasket the crower cams LSA is 114 and installed at 110

personally Id be trying to get even aluminum head dcr down to about 8.0:1 for street use and IRON heads no more than about 7.8:1 simply because CRAP GAS labled as high test is comon, and it only takes one hard run with detonation to break a piston, theres not much sence in running right on the ragged edge for just a few hp on the street a (Z) with a properly built 383 will easily beat 90% of the cars on the road any where why push your chances of blowing the engine if you really must run a kick butt combo add a 150 hp nitrous plate system on that 383 with FORGED pistons and a switch that retards the ignition timing and jet it richer then ideal. when its in use! getting to or exceeding 500 plus hp is then a joke yet you don,t need to put up with the bad habits a 500 hp plus engine potentially has when its not in use!

Thanks. I can't get the specs for that cam to come up on the Crower site so I looked at 00242 instead. I'm gonna keep checking back with Crower to see if they fix the problem. the comp xe274 has 230/236 dur and .490 lift the crower 00232 has 230/238 dur .488/.501 lift the differance is in lobe centers/LSA and the close ramp speeds I don't think I will have the cash to polish the chambers. Maybe I could do it myself, yes you can! its time intensive but really easy to do! I have almost every David Vizard book and he goes over all that. Would it be nesscery to with the valve reliefs notched? NO ! but it HELPS gain chamber volume AND prevent valve to piston contact If so is it going to be better to use the notched flat tops or the dished ones? generally a slight dish in the 10cc-12cc area will be better in an application like yours I am trying to get a DCR of about 8.25 and use 92 octane. Would Alum. heads help any? aluminum will help a great deal! its less prone to detonation as it transfers heat faster

while your figures are close for a .0.0 deck combo the blocks more likely to come with between a .023-.024 deck and require a .021 head gasket which will put you closer to a 8.5 dcr with a crower cam below that 110 lsa comp cam is part of the problem swap to a CROWER cam # 00232 with similar specs but a 114 LSA and 110 Int. center line your engine will run and breath better at higher rpms with extremely little loss in low rpm torque, I try to AVOID comp cams in most cases simply because their tech support has constantly given BAD advice and the extemely fast ramps they use tend to make for a noisy valve train with no major improvement in how the engine runs in my opinion compared to similar CROWER,or CRANE designs http://www.crower.com its also a good idea to polish the combustion chambers surface, and round off the sharp edges slightly, while the combustion chamber volume gained will be small it helps reduce true cpr,the resistance to detonation will improve slightly so its a win/win deal then have extra valve clearance notch distance cut to give you both a 11 cc negative piston dome volume and much safer valve to piston clearance,(that won,t require much on most pistons, add about .080 depth on both valve notchs) or swap to pistons with aproximately a total of 10cc-12cc reverse domes (dished) that should place you at about 8.0-7.9 dcr for pump gas