grumpyvette

http://www.sallee-chevrolet.com/Scat/Connecting_Rods.html just a reminder! they make 5.850" long (H) connecting rods with 7/16" capscrew rod bolts that split the differance and have both the advantage of the pin kept out of the oil ring yet the longer than 5.7" length to reduce side thrust loads also

most of these things Ive tested before, TOULENE WORKS TO BOOST OCTANE, the acetone is a NEW ONE, IVE yet to test, my first reaction s its B.S. if exon,shell,BP,ford or G.M. could add a few ounces of acetone to a tank of gas and increase mileage 10% plus they would do it in a heartbeat without even thinking twice if there was no serious downside Im not saying it won,t work only that IM VERY SCEPTICAL

zfan to answer your question, thats normal with 10w30 oil and normal clearances and NO you should NOT use a thicker viscosity, and yes SYNTHETIC is REALLY BETTER, keep in mind PRESURE is the way we measure the resistance to flow,NOT how much oil flows, or how well its luberacating, worry if and only if the pressure drops below 15 psi at idle or it fails to jump significantly as soon as the rpms build slightly, by the time you get to 3000rpm you should see 45 psi minimum and by 5500rpm 60 psi plus heres an old post on oil systems it answers most questions the short answer is its always better to use a HV pump with BOTH a WINDAGE SCREEN AND A HIGH VOLUUM BAFFLED OIL PAN....AS those three components are necessary to get the whole lubracation SYSTEM working together as its designed to BUT sucking the pan dry of oil with a HV oil pump is about 90% a myth in a chevy V8, (I say 90% because it MIGHT be possiable if all your return drain passages were partly blocked and you were running a 5 qt oil pan with no baffles, under some conditions like very hard accelleration or braking where much of the oil was forced to one end of the oil pan by G-forces but generally its damn hard to get even a 5 quart oil pan in a chevy to suck air into the oil pan pick-up, and its quite difficult to get the oil pump pick-up uncovered simply because theres just no where for 5 quarts of oil to go, that it won,t drain back quickly in a well maintained engine. years ago I saw an in depth article about this that SMOKEY YUNICK did useing a plexiglass window in the oil pan and valve covers, even at 7000rpm a high voluum oil pump coild not get most of the oil into the upper engine, the valve covers never got full like some folfs will tell you and the oil pan always had more than enought oil flow returningg to keep the oil pump pick-up well covered. read this over carefully IVE POSTED MOST OF THIS BEFORE BUT IT FITS HERE AS A SOURCE OF INFO FOR THE NEWER GUYS http://www.melling.com/highvol.html http://www.melling.com/engoil.html ok lets look at a few things, pressure is the result of a resistance to flow , no matter how much oil is put out by the oil pump there is almost no pressure unless there is a resistance to that oil flow and the main resistance is from oil trying to flow through the bearing surface clearances and once the pumps output pressure exceeds the engines ability to accept the oilflow at the max pressure the oil return system/bypass spring allows the oil circles back through the pump ,now the amount of oil flow necessary to reach the furthest parts in the engine from the oil pump does not go up in direct relation to rpm, but it instead increases with rpm at a steadly increaseing rate that increases faster than the engine rpm due to centrifugal force draining the oil from the rods as they swing faster and faster since energy increases with the square of the velocity the rate of oil use goes up quite a bit faster due to the greatly increased (G-FORCES) pulling oil from the rod bearings over 5000rpm going to 8000rpm than the rate of oil flow increases from 2000 rpm to 5000rpm (the same 3000rpm spread) and remember the often stated (10 lbs per 1000rpm)needs to be measured at the furthest rod and main bearing from the pump not at the pump itself, next lets look at the oil flow itself, you have about 5-6 quarts in an average small block now the valve covers never get and hold more than about 1/3 to 2/3 of a quart each even at 8000 rpm (high speed photography by SMOKEY YUNICK doing stock car engine research with clear plastic valve covers prove that from what Ive read) theres about 1 quart in the lifter gallery at max and theres about 1 quart in the filter and in the oil passages in the block, that leaves at least 2 quarts in the pan at all times and for those that want to tell me about oil wrapped around the crankshaft at high rpms try squirting oil on a spinning surface doing even 2000rpm (yes thats right its thrown off as fast as it hits by centrifugal force, yes its possiable for the crankshaft WITHOUT A WINDAGE SCREEN to keep acting like a propeler and pulling oil around with it in the crank case but thats what the wrap around style milodon type windage screen is designed to stop)the only way to run out of oil is to start with less than 4 quarts or to plug the oil return passages in the lifter gallery with sludge or gasket material! now add a good windage tray and a crank scrapper and almost all the oil is returned to the sump as it enters the area of the spinning crankshaft! forming a more or less endless supply to the oil pump, BTW almost all pro teams now use DRY SUMP SYSTEMS WITH POSITIVE DISPLACEMENT GERATOR PUMPS that are 3,4,or 5 stage pumps each section of which has more voluum than a standard voluum oil pump because its been found total oil control is necessary at high rpms to keep bearings cool and lubed NOW I POSTED THIS BEFORE BUT IT NEEDs REPEATING ok look at it this way,what your trying to do here is keep an pressureized oil film on the surface of all the bearings to lube and cool them and have enough oil spraying from the rod and main bearing clearances to lube the cam and cylinder walls/rings. now a standard pump does a good job up to 5000rpm and 400 hp but above 6000rpm and 400hp the bearings are under more stress and need more oilflow to cool and because the pressure on the bearings is greater you need higher pressures to maintain that oilfilm.lets look at the flow verus pressure curve. [color:"red"] since oil is a liquid its non-compressable and flow will increase with rpm up to the point where the bypass circuit starts to re-route the excess flow at the point were the pressure exceeds the bypass spring pressure. but the voluum will be equal to the pumps sweep voluum times the rpm of the pump, since the high voluum pump has a sweep voluum 1.3-1.5 times the standard pump voluum it will push 1.3-1.5 times the voluum of oil up to the bypass cicuit cut in point,that means that since the engine bearings leakage rate increases faster as the rpms increase because the clearances don,t change but the bleed off rate does that the amount of oil and the pressure that it is under will increase faster and reach the bypass circuit pressure faster with the high voluum pump. the advantage here is that the metal parts MUST be floated on that oil film to keep the metal parts from touching/wearing and the more leakage points the oil flows by the less the voluum of oil thats available for each leakage point beyond it and as the oil heats up it becomes easier to push through the clearences.now as the rpms and cylinder preasures increase in your goal to add power the loads trying to squeeze that oil out of those clearances also increase. ALL mods that increase power either increase rpms,cylinder preasures or reduce friction or mechanical losses. there are many oil leakage points(100) in a standard chevy engine. 16 lifter to push rod points 16 pushrod to rocker arm points 32 lifter bores 16 x 2 ends 10 main bearing edges 9 cam bearing edges 16 rod bearing edges 2 distributor shaft leaks 1 distributor shaft to shim above the cam gear(some engines [/color] that have an oil pressure feed distributor shaft bearing.) so the more oil voluum the better,(AS LONG AS ITS TOTALLY UNDER CONTROL ON BOTH THE PRESSURE AND RETURN/SCAVAGEING SIDES OF THE SYSTEMchevy did an excelent job in the design but as the stresses increase the cooling voluum of the extra oil available from the larger pump helps to prevent lubracation delivery failure, do you need a better pump below 5000rpm or 400hp (no) above that level the extra oil will definitely help possiable deficient oil flow and bearing cooling and a simple increase in pressure does not provide a big increase in voluum that may be necessary to keep that oil film in the correct places at the correct voluum at all times.the stock system was designed for a 265cid engine in a passenger car turning a max of about 6000 rpm but only haveing the stress of under 300hp transmitted to the bearings, Im sure the orriginal designers never thought that the sbc or bbc would someday be asked to on occasion hold up to 450-800hp and 6000-8000 rpm.nore did they forsee valvesprings that placed 500lbs and up loads on the lifters and the use of over 9 to 1 compression ratios in the original design so the oil voluums and pressures necessary to cool those valve springs and bearings at those stress levels were never taken into account for that either. Continued (oil Pan/pump) the oil pump can only pump as much oil as the engine clearances allow at the max pressure that the oil pump bye -pass circuit will allow, and no more. for your idea to be correct (which it could be under some conditions)the oil flow through the engine clearances would need to be so great that the pump turning at 3500rpm,7000rpm engine speed(remember the pump spins 1/2 the speed the crank does)and most likely pumping at max pressure could lower the oil level to the point that the pick-up becomes uncovered or a vortex as you call it forms and the pump starts sucking air. now under hard acceleration it is very possiable for the pickup on ANY oil pump to to become uncovered in a oil pan that has less than 5qt capacity and with no oil control baffles as the oil rushes to the rear of the oil pan if the pick-up is located in mid pan or under hard brakeing if the pick-up is located at the rear of the pan on a non- oil baffle controlled pan. I will grant you that it is possiable for ANY oil pump to pump a good amount of oil into the lifter gallery at high rpms IF THE OIL RETURN PASSAGES IN THE HEADS AND LIFTER GALLERY ARE BLOCKED, preventing its normal return to the crankcase , but running a high volume oil pump will have little or nothing to do with how much oil is in the pan if the engines drain back holes are clear and your useing a milodon style windage screen. I have several times had that same complaint about lack of oil pressure under acceleration but it is caused by a non-baffled pan or the pickup mounted so close to the pan bottom that the pump cant get a good intake flow, if you carefully check youll find that on a dyno runs it seldom happens,because the oil is constantly removed by the windage screen is returned to the sump, most of the oil pumped into the system exits at the rod and main bearing clearances or at the cam bearings and from the lifter bores lower ends, its not the constant oil flow or lack of oil into the rocker arms that has the big effect on total oil flow as SMOKEY YUNICKS PHOTOGRAPIC RESEARCH PROVED YEARS AGO,its the oil flowing from the bearings and lifters and that oil flow is quickly returned to the sump by a windage screen scrapeing it off the spinning crank and rods as the spinning assembly passes over the windage screen. in effect most of the oil in an engine works like your timeing chain in that it constantly cycles top to botton and back never getting higher than the cam bearing lifter area. now what does quite frequently happen is that the guys installing a high volume oil pump just swap out the standard pump, reinstall the stock or simular pick-up and bolt on the pan with the pick-up in the stock possition on the oil pump. the stock pick-up is mounted about 3/8" off the pan bottom,the high volume pump is normally equiped with impeller gears about .3 inches longer than stock, the high volume pump body is that much lower in the pan, resultting in the pick-up being only about 1/8" from the pan bottom. the result is that on a normal chevy oil pump pick-up this leave a space of about 1/8" x 2.5" for oil to flow into the pump. at low rpms this works but as the rpms climb the pick-up that can,t get any oil to pump cavitates as it spins and fails to pump oil, result oil pressure drops untill rpms are lowered no matter how much oil is over the pick-up. simply checking to make sure that anout 1/2" of space is under the pick-up when the pan is installed cures that problem (a simple trick is to weld a 1/2" thick nut to the oil pump Pick-up base and test fitting the pan BEFORE WELDING THE PICK-UP TO THE PUMP BODY)] what it comes down too in every case that Ive looked into so far is a improperly positioned pick-up or a non- baffled oil pan without a windage screen or less than 5 qts of oil in the system, not a problem of all available oil being pumped into the lifter gallery and valve covers like some people would like you to think. the MELLING COMPANY HAS THIS TO SAY Most of the stock automobile engines are designed to operate from idle to 4500 RPM. The original volume and pressure oil pump will work fine in this type of application. As the demands on the engine increase so does the demands on the oiling system and pump. The oil pump's most difficult task is to supply oil to the connecting rod bearing that is the farthest from the pump. To reach this bearing, the oil travels from three to four feet, turns numerous square corners thru small holes in the crankshaft to the rod bearing. The rod bearing doesn't help matters. It is traveling in a circle which means centrifugal force is pulling the oil out of the bearing. A 350 Chevy has a 3.4811 stroke and a 2.111 rod journal. The outer edge of the journal travels 17.5311 every revolution. At 1000 RPM, the outer edge is traveling at 16.6 MPH and 74.7 MPH at 4500 RPM. If we take this engine to 6500 the outer edge is up to 107.9 and at 8500 it is 141.1 MPH. Now imagine driving a car around a curve at those speeds and you can feel the centrifugal force. Now imagine doing it around a circle with a 5.581, diameter. The size of the gears or rotors determines the amount of oil a pump can move at any given RPM. Resistance to this movement creates the pressure. If a pump is not large enough to meet the demands of the engine, there will not be any pressure. Or if the demands of the engine are increased beyond the pumps capabilities there will be a loss of oil pressure. This is where high volume pumps come in; they take care of any increased demands of the engine. Increases in the engine's oil requirements come from higher RPM, being able to rev faster, increased bearing clearances, remote oil cooler and/or filter and any combination of these. Most high volume pumps also have a increase in pressure to help get the oil out to the bearings faster. That is what a high volume pump will do. Now let Is consider what it will not do. It will not replace a rebuild in a worn-out engine. It may increase pressure but the engine is still worn-out. It will not pump the oil pan dry. Both solid and hydraulic lifters have metering valves to limit flow of the oil to the top of the engine. If a pan is pumped dry, it is because the holes that drain oil back to the pan are plugged. If the high volume pump is also higher pressure, there will be a slight increase in flow to the top. let me point out this chart http://www.diabolicalperformance.com/clearances.html heres other info, http://www.babcox.com/editorial/ar/ar10180.htm http://www.thirskauto.net/BearingPics.html http://www.waynesgarage.com/docs/oil.htm http://www.jimcookperformance.com/TechNotes/TN%2023.html http://www.cryoeng.com/images/EngineDurabilitySecrets.htm http://www.melling.com/engoil.html http://members.aol.com/carleyware/library/engine2t.htm the oil pump can only pump as much oil as the engine clearances allow at the max pressure that the oil pump bye -pass circuit will allow, and no more. for your idea to be correct (which it could be under some conditions)the oil flow through the engine clearances would need to be so great that the pump turning at 3500rpm,7000rpm engine speed(remember the pump spins 1/2 the speed the crank does)and most likely pumping at max pressure could lower the oil level to the point that the pick-up becomes uncovered or a vortex as you call it forms and the pump starts sucking air. now under hard acceleration it is very possiable for the pickup on ANY oil pump to to become uncovered in a oil pan that has less than 5qt capacity and with no oil control baffles as the oil rushes to the rear of the oil pan if the pick-up is located in mid pan or under hard brakeing if the pick-up is located at the rear of the pan on a non- oil baffle controlled pan. I will grant you that it is possiable for ANY oil pump to pump a good amount of oil into the lifter gallery at high rpms IF THE OIL RETURN PASSAGES IN THE HEADS AND LIFTER GALLERY ARE BLOCKED, preventing its normal return to the crankcase , but running a high volume oil pump will have little or nothing to do with how much oil is in the pan if the engines drain back holes are clear and ESPECIALLY if your useing a milodon style windage screen. look closely youll notice most oil never gets pumped higher than the lifters before returning to the oil pan sump, I have several times had that same complaint about lack of oil pressure under acceleration but it is caused by a non-baffled pan or the pickup mounted so close to the pan bottom that the pump cant get a good intake flow, if you carefully check youll find that on a dyno runs it seldom happens,because the oil is constantly removed by the windage screen is returned to the sump, most of the oil pumped into the system exits at the rod and main bearing clearances or at the cam bearings and from the lifter bores lower ends, its not the constant oil flow or lack of oil into the rocker arms that has the big effect on total oil flow as SMOKEY YUNICKS PHOTOGRAPIC RESEARCH PROVED YEARS AGO,its the oil flowing from the bearings and lifters and that oil flow is quickly returned to the sump by a windage screen scrapeing it off the spinning crank and rods as the spinning assembly passes over the windage screen. in effect most of the oil in an engine works like your timeing chain in that it constantly cycles top to botton and back never getting higher than the cam bearing lifter area. "I don't need to do anything to the HV oil pump except put it in there right? " YES and NO! you still NEED to check that the oil pump pick-up is mounted so its 3/8"-1/2" from the oil pan floor surface ( DON,T GUESS CHECK!!)a lump of modeling clay can be used to check clearance by putting a lump on the lower pick-up surface and placing the oil pan on the block as a quick test fit using only the corner 4 bolts and the gasket without any sealant. then after making 100% sure it fits with the correct clearance you need to silver solder or weld or braze the oil pump pick up to the pump AFTER temp removing the bye pass circuit spring to prevent it getting anealled OR you can use a BOLT ON pick-up with red loctite your local arts/craft store sells it in 1 lb blocks I usually use brite blue or black but suit your self, a digital caliper or even a ruler will get you the thickness measurement your looking for) http://store.yahoo.com/teacher-parent-store/modelingclay.html http://www.guildcraftinc.com/ProductInfo.aspx?productid=102-500 once its correctly possitioned ,remove the bye pass spring and gears from the oil pump,and have the pick-up BRAZED or welded to the pump body, then after it cools (DON,T DROP IT IN WATER LET IT AIR COOL)replace the byepass spring and gears, lube the pump, check clearances and install! just be damn sure its BRAZED or welded in the correct location as that 3/8"-1/2" is critical to good oil voluum feeding the pick-up btw check that the pick-up tube entering the pump is not extending into the pump body too far and binding the pump gears, Ive seen that happen (rarely but its comon enought that ive seen it a few times) and check that the gears rotate smoothly (i usually oil the gears with a mall amount of assembly lube mixed with oil before assembling the pump)and its best to use a oil pump drive with a steel collar not plastic

thanks for the info

http://peswiki.com/index.php/Directory:Acetone_as_a_Fuel_Additive http://pesn.com/2005/03/17/6900069_Acetone/ what do you guys think?

sorry try again

http://media.gm.com/servlet/GatewayServlet?target=http://image.emerald.gm.com/gmnews/viewmonthlyreleasedetail.do?domain=74&docid=13297

http://www.gmhightechperformance.com/tech/0310htp_optispark/ http://www.charm.net/~mchaney/optisprk/optisprk.htm http://www.fierolt1.com/lt1_95_up_OptiReplace.htm http://www.noid.org/~muttvette/opti.html http://www.houston-f-body.org/tech/optispark/ http://www.fierolt1.com/lt1_95_up_OptiReplace.htm http://www.dynotech-eng.com/dynaspark.htm http://www.corvettefever.com/howto/16758 http://www.dynotech-eng.com/dynaspark.htm

just curious? what year ? condition? was your car in and about what price range are the Z31 cars going for? can you post pictures? is the motor missing? can you take/post pics of the bare engine compartment? measurements would be nice also? Ive been considering doing a swap on one

as a general rule of thumb, you can figure on a ratio of hp(flywheel) per lb of car weight (driver included) lets assume your (Z) weights 3000 lbs with you in it and a full tank of fuel thats 7 lb per hp makes for a nice fast street car (youll beat 90% of the competition, if your a skilled driver) about 425hp for a 7 lb per hp make nice fast street car 6lb per hp makes for a nice fast road racing car (youll beat 90% of the competition if your a skilled driver) about 500hp for a 6lb per hp make nice fast road racing car 5 lbs per hp makes for a nice fast drag car (youll beat most of the non-pro competition if your a skilled driver) about 600hp for a 5 lb per hp make nice fast drag car any more than that gets to be very hard to control on street tires , and ,yes, if your cars lighter you can use less, if it heavier youll need more

http://www.dw1977.cz28.com/photo2.html http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive/head_flowdata.html http://chevyhiperformance.com/techarticles/41598/ http://www.kendrick-auto.com/head_flow_figures.htm http://www.malcams.com/legacy/misc/headflow.htm http://www.topher.net/~bearman/gmheadcomp.html http://purplesagetradingpost.com/sumner/techinfo/heads1.html http://www.geocities.com/z28esser/headcomp.html you failed to mention WHICH size pro 1 head ports you were looking to compare to the vortecs, and what your current engine combo consists of ...displacement,cpr,cam,ETC. but this might help (above flow figures) BTW that $693 is for EACH HEAD NOT TWO!

http://victorylibrary.com/mopar/intake-tech-c.htm http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/runnertorquecalc.html http://www.newcovenant.com/speedcrafter/calculators/runnerarea.htm http://www.newcovenant.com/speedcrafter/calculators/intake.htm http://www.bgsoflex.com/intakeln.html http://www.me.psu.edu/me415/SPRING02/intake/intake.html http://headerdesign.com/extras/engine.asp#Intake_Manifolds http://www.team-integra.net/sections/articles/showArticle.asp?ArticleID=466 http://turbonation.com/intake.htm ever wonder WHY intakes are designed with runners shaped like they are? you might want to read this info

the cam timing, compression ratio,cattalitic converters, state of tune, the condition of your rings and valve seals, and ignition timing , valve adjustments, will have a great deal more to do with your passing emmission testing than the increase in displacement a 1/4" extra stroke gives the engine ive used a crane 114142 cam in several nice 10:1 cpr 383 street combos and they all passed emmission testing with flying colors http://www.cranecams.com/?show=browseParts&action=partSpec&partNumber=114142&lvl=2&prt=5 yeah, you can go with a wilder cam, but this cam in a 10:1 cpr 383 makes for a great street torque combo and easily passes emmission testing btw given the correct heads ETC, a combo like that gets you about 400 PLUS fly hp/450 PLUS fly tq which makes even a heavy corvette a low 13 /high 12 second car and add a 125 hp nitrous system and its a whole new ball game

http://phors.locost7.info/contents.htm take the time to read thru this

http://www.parts123.com/PartFrame.asp?ZTM=cadefjgb&GHOME=www.midwestmotorsportsinc.com&TITLE=Midwest_Motorsport you might want to look over these #MWM15120 #MWM15121 (pan alone)about $60 #MWM15120K #MWM15121K (pan with matching HV pump and pickup about $95 look at the picture in the catalog its a good quality 7 qt baffled oil pan 7.25" deep and I use them on most of my corvettes with some mods to the sump that increase the capacity, but they work great as delivered and at about $60 each are a bargin BTW they go on sale ocasionally for $40 each so stock up then, and yeah theres clearance for a windage screen, and they can be modified to hold 10 qts by extending the sump forward if you have the clearance necessary to fit under the car, (suspenson, cross member ETC.)

http://www.wheelspecs.com/specs/WheelSearch.php http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/3636/ http://www.high-impact.net/wheels/backspacingillustration.htm http://www.custom-wheels-n-rims.com/WheelTech/wheel-backspace.htm http://www.rsracing.com/tech-wheel.html#backspace http://www.intercotire.com/html/body_true-mph.htm http://www.kormanfastbmw.com/ttiredia.htm http://www.rsracing.com/rscatalog/prod-index.asp http://www.rsracing.com/glossary.htm#patch http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html http://www.geocities.com/steve.knickerbocker/tires/tirediam.htm http://www.bigblockdart.com/wheelspacing/wheelspacing.html http://www.dougrippie.com/drm/brake_conversions.htm#C4%20Corvette%20DRM%20Wilwood%20Brake%20Kit

ok heres the short version on a stock sbc thats running flat tappet lifters you need the correct valve spring pressures to prevent problems, thats normally in the 105lb to 130 lb range and the open pressure is in the 280lb-310 lb range for flat tappet cams for more info read the links http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive/head_flow_tech.html http://www.holley.com/HiOctn/TechServ/TechInfo/IECVTTech2.html http://www.compcams.com/Technical/Products/ValveSprings/ http://www.cranecams.com/?show=article&id=22&PHPSESSID=3d4ecaa16d3a078db96f3f3826ed2c88 http://www.cranecams.com/?show=valveSpringsFAQ&PHPSESSID=5b8e1aa62f2d4f7cb2f705af309b4140 http://www.vincihiperformance.com/LS1%20TECH%20AND%20TUNE%20PAGE%20.HTML http://www.cranecams.com/?show=article&id=16&PHPSESSID=5b8e1aa62f2d4f7cb2f705af309b4140 http://carprogrammer.com/Z28/LT4HotCam2000/ have all the tools so its not a problem. but heres what I use, http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ProductDisplay?prrfnbr=2884&prmenbr=361 (valve spring compressor) http://www.compcams.com/catalog/340.html (height micrometers) http://www.compcams.com/catalog/348.html (6" dial calipers) http://www.etoolcart.com/product.asp?0=203&1=232&3=948 (dial indicator) http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ProductDisplay?prrfnbr=3293&prmenbr=361 (degree wheel) and on my personal engines I try for at least .100 valve to piston,valve guide to retainer and rocker to stud clearance and .080 max lift to valve spring bind clearances

Im running the OLDER model but its EXTENSIVELY ported

Ive been running a PORTED STEALTH RAM MPFI system on my 11:1 cpr 383 for several years now, the first thing you need to realize is that the intake is designed from a TUNNEL RAM INTAKE MAnifold and its most EFFECTIVE OPERATIONAL RANGE IS APROXIMATELY 4000RPM THRU ABOUT 6500RPM and as such your compression ratio and cam choice needs to match to get the best results, so far Ive tested about 14 cams and the two best so far are the CROWER 00471 and the CRANE 119661 BOTH OF WHICH REQUIRE a 2800-3000rpm stall and 3.73-4.11 rear gears to reach and opperate at peak efficiency in that same 4000rpm-6500rpm band next your injector size should match your intended HP goals http://www.rceng.com/technical.htm#WORKSHEET http://users.erols.com/srweiss/calcmph.htm http://users.erols.com/srweiss/calcrpm.htm http://users.erols.com/srweiss/calcrgr.htm http://www.xse.com/leres/bin/gearratio?t...umference=80.90 http://www.dalesplace.com/htm/information/rpm_calculator.htm http://www.ondoperformance.com/calculators.html btw, you can make 475-500 plus hp and 500ft lbs of tq BEFORE hitting the NITROUS with that intake on the correct combo

the guys on this site need to understand the differance between static and dynamic compression ratios, and thats understandable as its a difficult concept to grasp at first but you need to understand it before selecting a combos components the differance between STATIC COMPRESSION RATIO AND DYNAMIC COMPRESSION RATIO is where the piston is in the cylinder when the valves close and the piston can accually start compressing the REMAINING VOLUUM IN THE CYLINDER VS the STATIC COMPRESSION THAT ASSUMES THE PISTON STARTS COMPRESSING THE INSTANT IT LEAVES BOTTOM DEAD CENTER AND STARTS UPWARD ON THE COMPRESSION STROKE! let me try and explain, the short version is that the PISTON COMPRESSES NOTHING untill BOTH VALVES ARE CLOSED, .......thats the only compression ratio that matters,.... since its the only compression ratio the engine ever sees. static compression is simply the differance between the cylinder volume at BOTTOM DEAD CENTER(BDC) and its compressed volume at TOP DEAD CENTER (TDC), into the combustion chambers,... dynamic compression takes into account that on the pistons upward compression stroke the valves have not yet closed and nothing gets compressed by the piston untill they do, that of course depends on the cam and rockers, pistons and connecting rods, the cylinder voluum, the rod/stroke ratio, ETC.,used, in the combo, and the rpm levels to some extent BTW, ALUMINUM HEADS can usually operate at a higher dynamic compression simply because ALUMINUM releases heat to the coolant much faster than iron, its the lower heat levels that remain in the cylinder that help prevent detonation..when you increase the dynamic compression the heat levels in the heads combustion chamber rise , the differance in the RATE heat leaves the cylinder allows a slightly higher dynamic compression level from aluminum before the same HEAT levels are REACHED & MAINTAINED in the combustion chambers heres a calculator for static cpr, which you need to figure first http://www.newcovenant.com/speedcrafter/calculators/compressionratio.htm let me point out a few things first look at this chart http://www.iskycams.com/ART/techinfo/ncrank1.pdf then lets assume your 350 sbc engine has a static compression ratio of 11:1 but youve installed this cam http://dab7.cranecams.com/SpecCard/DisplayCatalogCard.asp?PN=114681&B1=Display+Card looking at the cam specs we see that the effective stroke is not the 3.48" that the static compression ratio is measured from ,at BDC, BUT from about 2.6 inches from tdc where the valves close as the piston moves upward, so your true working compression is closer to 8.1:1 NOT 11:1 heres a longer more detailed explanation and access to the software to figure dynamic cpr with the cam your useing in your engine http://cochise.uia.net/pkelley2/DynamicCR.html http://www.diamondracing.net/cocalc.htm keep in mind that you can easilly run a stattic compressio of 11:1 with aluminum heads if you keep the cam timing in a range so that the DYNAMIC COMPRESSION is CLOSE TO 8:1 take the time to understand the concept,it VERY IMPORTANT read this http://www.diamondracing.net/cocalc.htm http://victorylibrary.com/mopar/cam-tech.htm http://victorylibrary.com/mopar/otto-c.htm http://victorylibrary.com/mopar/cam-tech-c.htm http://kb-silvolite.com/article.php?acti...3117842f4eb4c49 http://victorylibrary.com/mopar/rod-tech-c.htm http://victorylibrary.com/mopar/piston_position-c.htm http://www.iskycams.com/techtips.html#2003 http://victorylibrary.com/mopar/rod-tech.htm http://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/PICS/detonation/detonation.html http://www.chevytalk.org/threads/showfla...true#Post397334 if cams are a mystery please take the time to read these, it will get you a good start http://www.newcovenant.com/speedcrafter/tech/camshaft/1.htm (read LESSONs 1-8) http://www.wighat.com/fcr3/confusion.htm http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/techarticles/95298/ http://www.idavette.net/hib/camcon.htm http://www.centuryperformance.com/valveadjustment.htm http://www.totalengineairflow.com/tech/valvelashing.htm http://www.chevytalk.com/tech/engine/Cam_Selection.html http://www.chevytalk.com/tech/101/Cam_Theory.html http://www.babcox.com/editorial/ar/ar119736.htm http://www.symuli.com/vw/camp1.html http://www.symuli.com/vw/camp2.html http://home.wxs.nl/~meine119/tech/camqa.html http://www.chevytalk.org/threads/showfla...true#Post200511 http://www.crower.com/misc/valve_timing_chart.html http://www.speedomotive.com/Building%20Tips.htm ] http://chevyhiperformance.com/techarticles/94138/ http://www.aera.org/Members/EngineTech/engine.htm http://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/PICS/detonation/detonation.html

Id say the BASICS would be a floor jack,torque wrench, normal sockets, and wrenches, timing light, digital volt meter, vacuum gauge,fuel pressure gage,compression and leakdown gauges, and an engine stand, SKILLED FRIENDS,LOTS OF MANUALS heres a short but not complete list of what an almost complete shop would have A set of quick release tools for late model gm fuel lines and a/c line disconnects. ACETYLENE TORCH ADJUSTABLE LENGTH PUSH ROD ADJUSTABLE POINTER , Adjustable stand, for dial indicator Assorted pliers/vise grips Air compressor Air ratchet Allen wrenches ASK QUESTIONS ASSORTED FILES ASSORTED SOCKETS,OPEN AND BOX WRENCHES 1/2",3/8".1/4" DRIVE Ball joint press tools Ball joint separator forks Battery charger(full size shop type) Bench grinder w/ wire wheel Big huge screwdriver which doubles as a pry bar BORE GAUGE Brake spring pliers and retaining spring tool CAM BEARING INSTALLER CAM DEGREE WHEEL CAM HANDLE CARBIDE BURRS CC Buret Kit/PLUS STAND Checking springs chisels (assorted sizes/types) clamp for compressing calipers CLUTCH PILOT Coil spring compressors Compression tester COMMON SENSE CRANK SOCKETS Creeper Crows feet CYLINDER HONE DENT PULLER DEPTH GAUGE Dial indicator, Die grinder Differential Set-up Kit Distributor wrench DRIFT PUNCHES (assorted sizes/types) Drain pans all sizes Dremel tool set to cut rivets etc. DRILL PRESS Drop light (florescent preferred) Dwell meter for the older cars EASY OUTS ELECTRIC SOLDER GUN Electrical tape Engine hoist ENGINE LEVELER ENGINE STAND Feeler Gages FIRE EXTINGUISHER Flexible dwell key for point distributors FREEZE PLUG INSTALLER FUEL PRESSURE GAUGE Full set of assorted hammers all the way up to 5 lb hand held full set of tap and dies metric and standard Full set of torqze tip screw drivers and sockets male and female all sizes Full size vice Gasket scraper Gear Pullers GM disk brake caliper Allen key 3/8 and 5/16 Grease gun Harmonic balancer puller HARMONIC BALLANCER INSTALLER HONING STONE Jack stands and a 2 1/2 -3 ton full size service floor jack JEWELERS FILES LAPTOP COMPUTER Leakdown tester LIFTER BORE HONE LIFTER GROOVE TOOL LUIS TOOL Magnet MAGNETIC PICK UP TOOL MAGNIFYING GLASS MANUAL LUBE PUMP MICROMETERS MIG WELDER Mini Valve Spring Tester MIRROR Multimeter Normal screwdrivers all sizes NUT SPLITTER OIL CAN Oil filter and regular spin on filter wrenches. Oil filter wrench Oil Pump Primers ONE NEW SOLID LIFTER PB BLASTER OIL Pipe cutter PISTON RING COMPRESSOR Piston stop, Pitman arm puller Plasma cutter PLASTIC HAMMER Pneumatic chisel Pneumatic impact guns 3/8 and 1/2 drive Pressure bleeder for brakes PRY BAR PUSHROD CHECKER Putty knife Ramps Rear caliper piston turning tool REFERENCE MANUALS RIFLE CLEANING ROD AND BRUSHES FOR OIL PASSAGES Ring expander pliers RING GAP FILER Rochester idle mixture adjusting tool ROD BOLT GUIDES ROD BOLT STRETCH GAUGE SCAN SOFTWARE Sledge or mall hammer SMALL FLASH LIGHT Snap ring pliers internal and external SPRING COMPRESSOR Standard set of drift pin punches,alignment punches,[censored] and centering punches. Steering column lock plate compressor Steering wheel puller Stethoscope STUD INSTALLER TAPE MEASURE Test light Three or four of every size socket and wrenches Timing light tig welder Tire Pressure Gauges TORQUE WRENCH Transmission jack Tubing cutter Tubing flare tool Tubing bender Utility knife VACUUM GAUGE Wire crimper Wheel chocks (keep cars from rolling) GOOD KNOWLEDGEABLE FRIENDS Other things to keep handy Gasket scraper Plasma cutter Drill press Allen wrenches 12pt sockets Deep sockets Impact sockets Compressor Retracting extension cord Safety glasses Bench grinder w/ wire wheel Die grinder Wire crimper Valve spring compressor Breaker bar Distributor wrench Taps & dies Oil filter wrench Line wrenches Crows feet Shorty wrenches Tire iron Cutting torch FIRE EXTINGUISHER Throw-away vinyl gloves Plastic zip-lock bags Permanent marker Duct tape Electrical tape Torque wrench Oil pump primer Speed wrench Carburetor stand Tire pressure gauge Compression gauge Sandblaster Paint gun Utility knife Transmission jack Mallet Stethoscope fire extinguisher cell phone emergency numbers cold beer hot coffee first aid kit easily accessiable links to several car data bases a good buddy who works in parts at the local chevy dealership!

be sure you check clearances carefully, a mistake can and will damage the engine, DON,T GUESS most people tend to tell me Im wrong about that untill they try it both ways yeah the differance is usually minor but five to 10 thousands differance is not rare if the parts are clean and dry versus sprayed with an oil mist first check to make sure that you are measureing correctly, many times the valve actual has more clearance in the flycut clearance notches,or only the very edge of the valves head and the edge of the notch are close and very minor cutting with a tool fitted in a valve guide will clear the problem and the valve has more clearance than measurements taken from the pistons upper surfaces, and that the head gasket thickness and valve train geometry are correct, check if changing the cam retard/advance or installed possition can be changed to increase the clearance to 0.100 minimum on both the intake and exhaust valves (MOST LIKELY TO WORK WITH THE LEAST PROBLEMS) add a thicker head gasket? ( BUT THAT TENDS TO RUIN QUENCH AND DOES NOT TEND TO BE A GREAT CHOICE ON MOST ENGINES) look over the isky site they and MANY OTHER HOD ROD TOOL SUPPLY SHOPS SELL TOOLS THAT APPEAR TO BE EXTRA LONG STEM VALVES WITH CUTTERS ATTACHED TO FIX THAT PROBLEM http://www.iskycams.com/pdfcatalog/PAGE17.pdf heres a few things that should always be checked on an engine build heads are the pushrods perfectly strait? do the pushrods flow oil? rocker studs/guides torqued correctly? do the head bolts have washers under the bolt heads? are they the correct length for the cylinder heads in use? have the heads been pocket ported? combustion chambers unshrouded? intake ports gasket matched" are the valve guides cut to the correct length? are the heads pocket ported? is the retainer to valve guide clearance correct? are the valve guide oil seals installed? is there valve spring seats installed? inner damper springs installed? spring bind height checked? (to exceed max valve lift by .050 min.) oil return holes cleaned of casting flash? were steam holes in heads necessary? were the spark plug threads of a installed spark plug extending into the combustion chamber? rocker slot to rocker stud clearances ? retainer to valve guide clearances? spring bind height checked for the correct spring pressure? valve lash/preload ? are the valve springs the correct tension,height?dia. keeper the correct angle? style? size? valve seats the correct angles? valves back cut? valves the correct length, stemsthe correct diam. strait? rockers the correct ratio? were the valve to valve guide clearances checked? were the heads milled? did the head gasket overlap the bore? what are your valve train clearances? is the rocker arm geometry correct! chambers CC,ed port work..(some steps optional) (1) open throat to 85%-90% of valve size (2)cut a 4 angle seat with 45 degree angle .065-.075 wide where the valve seats and about .100 at 60 degrees below and a .030 wide 30 degree cut above and a 20 degree cut above that rolled and blended into the combustion chamber (3)blend the spark plug boss slightly and lay back the combustion chamber walls near the valves (4)narrow but dont shorten the valve guide (5) open and straiten and blend the upper two port corner edges along the port roof (6) gasket match to/with intake and raise the port roof slightly (7) back cut valves at 30 degrees (8) polish valve face and round outer edges slightly (9)polish combustion chamber surface and blend edges slightly (10) remove and smooth away all casting flash , keep the floor of the port slightly rough but the roof and walls smoothed but not polished. (11) use a head gasket to see the max you can open the combustion chamber walls (12) blend but don,t grind away the short side radias block is the oil pump pick-up mounted 3/8"-1/2" from the oil pan floor/ is the windage screen mounted about 1/8" from the rotateing assembly/ is the pick-up brazed to the pump body? has the oil pump relief piston in the oil pump been checked for free ,easy movement? clearance? spring tension? is the oil pump pick-up tube inserted too far into the oil pump body,(binding the gears) has the block been clearanced for the rotating assembly? has the block been aline honed? is the crank strait? are the damper install keyway and threads ok? counter weights clearanced? MAGNAFLUXED? OIL PASSAGES CLEANED? GALLERY PLUGS INSTALLED CORRECTLY? has the cam to rod bolt clearance been checked? piston to valve clearances checked? piston to bore clearances? TRUST BEARING CLEARANCE? what were the piston ring to slot clearances? RING GAPS? were the rings all checked individually for end gap in the cylinders they were used/installed in? were the rings checked to make sure the correct side faced up, and the correct ring was in each groove? what were the back clearance on the rings? were the oil ring expanders carefully fitted for correct drag? were the oil ring scraper ring rails checked for end gap? total cam lift and remaining clearanceS? WAS THE CAM DEGREED IN? main bearing clearances? what is the main bearing run-out clearance piston to head clearance? (QUENCH?) head gasket to coolent holes checked? magnets installed? rod bolt to block clearances? what tq reading is necessay to spin the crank with no rods attached? are the rod bolts and main caps torqued correctly? (rod bolts checked with a bolt stretch gauge?) did you check the block for a strait main cap alignment? what size journals and what were the bearings edge to filet clearance?? are the journals checked for finish and run-out/tapper? did you use moly lube to assemble? correct bearing crush? did you pre-lube before start-up? did the distributor gear fit the cam gear precisely? was the distributor oil flow mod done? was the correct style distributor gear used? did you check the piston to piston pin bores for fit and clearance? did the piston pins to snap ring clearance seem overly tight? if they are pressed pins were they correctly matched and checked for free movement in the pistons? was the engine ballanced? cam button installed?, and lock plate installed? were the rods resized? checked for parrallel bores/were the rods strait? piston valve clearance notchs correctly located on the pistons? edges smoothed? were the rods checked for length? is there a few thousands clearance on the oil pump drive shaft AFTER the distributors bolted down? did you install a steel collar on the oil pump drive shaft? was the rod to piston pin side clearance checked? (at 4 places seperated bye 90 degree spots) does the oil pump drive shaft mid section clear the block with the pump installed? whats the starter to flywheel gear clearance? is the pilot bearing to trans imput shaft clearance ok? is the front motor mount bolt to fuel pump pushrod clearance ok? did the fuel pump pushrod move easily/ are you possitive the pistons were installed with the correct valve relief in the correct location?(eiieeiie) were the pistons installed with the correct side facing forward/ what torque values were used on all fasteners/ were they the correct length and type bolts? were the bores honed with a torque plate in place? was the cylinder finish correct for the type rings used? was the oil pump itself checked for free spin and clearance AFTER THE PICK-UP WAS INSTALLED? was the cam drive checked for free rotation and drag/ were the oil passage plugs drilled for extra oil flow? were the lifter bores checked? cam to timing cover clearance? cam journal to cam bearing clearances? was the cam journal run-out checked? was the cam degreed in or just lined up useing factiory index marks? has the rod and windage screen to oilpan clearnce been checked? does the dipstick & tube clear the windage screen? was the cam lobes/LSA/LIFT CHECKED? is the deck square/level? whats the cross hatch hone angle? what grit hone was used? is it correct for the rings used? are all the threads clean/clear? brass freeze plugs installed? block painted? a few things to check are the connecting rods installed with the beveled edge facing out on each pair with the bearing installed with the bevel facing out on both the lower and upper rod bearings also? are you using beveled bearing shells that match the cranks throw bevels? what are the bearing clearances? (are they the same checking at 90.120.160 degrees from the first measurement?} what are the connecting rod side clearances? is the crank strait? has it been turned undersize? if so...on ALL the rods? on ALL the mains? or on ALL the BEARINGS JOURNALS OR ONLY SOME? whats the TRUST BEARING CLEARANCE? is the piston side clearance correct? are the pistons installed in the correct cylinders? (intake and exhaust notches correctly located to match the cylinder head) are you POSSITIVE each main cap is in the correct location and FACING THE CORRECT DIRRECTION? did you use MOLY assembly lube? did you check EACH INDIVIDUAL RING ON EACH PISTON for ring gap clearance,AND that the rings fit the piston ring slots correctly? are any rings installed in the wrong ring slots (2nd ring in top slot ETC,)or upside down do the rings have back clearance? were the cylinders CORRECTLY HONED? is the cam drive binding? does the crank contact the windage screen? does the dipstick tube or dip stick touch the crank at any point? is the oil pump /cam gear binding? did you check that the oil pump mounting bolt does NOT contact the back surface of the rear main BEARING under the main cap? is the block warped, checked carefully?,was it line honed? are the piston pins centered? do the pistons rotate thru an arc with little resistance? are there any lock pins, spirolocs, tru-arcs contacting the cylinder walls? are you sure the bearing shells are installed correctly and the locating tabs are in the correct slots? are they the correct bearings for the application? or did you just assume the part guy knew what he was doing? did you MEASURE or GUESS, did you at least use Plastigauge and a torqure wrench? did you check EACH AND EVERY journal for tapper and roundness did you get the rotateing assembly ballanced???

before doing anything else you need to do a compression check and read this old post OK you just bought a 383 VETTE ENGINE..OR DID YOU???? HOW do you know its NOT a 307, or a 350 the guy sold you? sure it runs ok... but is it really a 383???? since a SBC 383 engine is BUILT FROM almost any 4" bore block by installing a 3.75" stroke crank and matching pistons and rods, the casting numbers will provide very little if any useful info! and you CAN,T depend on whether its internally or EXTERNALLY BALLANCED because BOTH type cranks,ballancers and flywheels could have been used in assembling a sbc 383) youll need to measure the bore and stroke, or at least the voluum of a cylinder to get the displacement, of the engine, now the correct way would be to disassemble the engine, but you can get a very good idea as to the displacement with a simple test. remove the rockers from cylinder #1 and disconnect the battery[/color] pull the #1 spark plug and put the timing mark at TDC, using a 5/8 socket and breaker bar on the crank nut, use a screw in air hose adapter to replace the spark plug from your compression tester(dont attache the gauge) just the hose and adapter(*YOU MUST USE THE TYPE THAT HAS NO VALVE OR OBSTRUCTION TO AIR OR OIL FLOW IN EITHER DIRECTION WHEN THE GAUGE IS NOT ATTACHED) have your buddy help by placing the hose in a quart of oil and turn the engine to BDC , letting it suck oil into the cylinder thru the hose, now slowly turn it untill your back at TDC,letting it blow air and oil back out, at this point the cylinders combustion chamber voluum and the hose are full of oil, NOW do it a second time, this will fill the cylinder WITHOUT AIR,but this time as the piston starts to compress the oil out of the cylinder,as you move from BDC to TDC let it squirt into a clean and empty container untill you reach TDC, a 350 will squirt out approximately 717 cc of oil, a 383 will squirt out approximately 784 cc of oil your local grocery store will have measuring cups/bowls marked in BOTH liters and ounces, the 100ML, 200ml ECT are REALLY CCs (look to pay well under $10) so your looking for about 784ML or 7 3/4 of the way to 800 ml on the measuring bowl for a 383 but a 350 will just push a bit over 715 ml of oil after finding the voluum, remove the adapter and leave the plug out, turn the engine over several times, to force the oil out BEFORE replacing the rockers, then replace the rockers and with the plug STILL OUT spin the engine on the starter several times to blow excess oil from the cylinder, only then can you replace the plug, and yeah, its measy and loud, and the cylinder will smoke for a minute untill the plug cleans itself! but its way less work than tearing the engine down to check!!

let me try to explain in non-tech terms the differance between the INTERNALL BALLANCED CRANKS and EXTERNAL BALLANCED CRANKS is the stress levels the crank and block are put thru, let me try and explain the differances (both methods work, but the internal ballance has far less stress) and keep in mind that the EXTERNAL ballance cranks normally use a 8" dia. damper which can cause clearance problems on a frame that designed to clear a 6.0-thru 7"" internal ballance damper dia. on either method the rods and pistons,are matched as to weight first to the lowest common weight to the lightest of the 8 in each set on an EXTERNALLY balanced crank the entire crank, rods pistons, are then ballanced as a unit by adding or subtracting weight from the damper and flexplate/flywheel mounted at the ends of the crank. on the internally ballanced crank, the crank itself is ballanced first, so it is equally in weight radially from the crankshaft center line then the damper and flexplate are mounted and they are match ballanced to the cranks ballance why does it make a differance , you ask? well if your externally ballanced the crank is constantly flexing the crank from one end to the othrer while the ends are trying to slow or speed up to absorb or release energy from the piston/rods thrust on the crank due to cylinder pressures on an internally ballanced crank that thrust force is basically working only against the individually crank throw again, Im sure your thinking , whats differance well it might help you get a better grip on the concept if you have a strand of UNCOOKED spageti (PASTA) I cant spell) and use a black majic marker to draw a line on one edge only place a single strand between your index finger and and your thumb on each end of the strand and roll it rapidly back and forth, thats similar to INTERNAL BALLANCE STRESS, notice the line stays strait now do the same thing but roll the pasta from only one end while holding the other end to provide resistance, notice the line spirals first in one then the other dirrection, this same flexing happends to the cranks under hundreds of pounds of cylinder pressures exerted over the four cylinder pressure points and millions of times at up to 60 times a second, , now youll have a nearly impossiable time breaking the pasta using the internally ballanced roll test because the pastas under almost no stress, but add resistance to the EXTERNAL test and the pasta SNAPS EASILY keep in mind stress is cumulative the internally ballanced crank has the individual cylinder exert major force over one throw, externall cranks absorb the stress over the full crank length, now add to tha the fact that many cheaper externall ballanced cranks are comonly cast steel with smaller counter weights and many of the more expensive internally ballanced cranks are comonly FORGED STEEL with larger counter weights making ballincing easier,and youll find the differance in resistance to flex is a huge differance if you ever wondered what those holes drilled in the counter weights were there for, it was done to remove weight from the counter weights

THANKS! btw guys heres some links you might want to look over http://www.grapeaperacing.com/GrapeApeRacing/camaro/block.cfm http://www.se-r.net/engine/block_prep.html http://www.diabolicalperformance.com/assemblyguideline.html http://www.sa-motorsports.com/blockdiy/blkdiy.shtm http://www.sa-motorsports.com/diyport.shtm http://members.tripod.com/torquespecs/hi_po_chev.htm http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/41838/ http://superchevy.com/technical/engines_drivetrain/shortblock/0108sc_motown/ http://superchevy.com/technical/engines_drivetrain/completebuilds_testing/0411sc_rat_copy/ http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/116_database/ http://carcraft.com/techarticles/116_0412_powr/ http://carcraft.com/techarticles/116_0401_push/ http://www.ryanscarpage.50megs.com/combos1.html http://www.dw1977.cz28.com/custom2.html http://www.chevymania.com/dyno/ http://www.chevytalk.org/threads/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=713945&an=0&page=0#713945 http://www.chevytalk.org/threads/showflat.php?Cat=0&Board=garage&Number=1088398&Searchpage=1&Main=581940&Words=list+grumpyvette&topic=&Search=true#Post1088398 more tips, read the links and sub links http://www.miata.net/sport/Physics/ http://www.chevythunder.com/Flow%20chart%20index.htm http://www.hardcore50.com/technical_articles/LaunchingPart1.htm http://www.se-r.net/car_info/suspension_tuning.html http://racingarticles.com/article_racing-9.html http://www.badasscars.com/techtips.html http://www.ws6.com/mycar.htm http://thirdgen.org/techbb2/showthread.php?s=&threadid=273727&perpage=75&highlight=&pagenumber=2 http://stealthram.com/flowcomparison.html http://f1.pg.briefcase.yahoo.com/bc/tpiarticle/lst?.dir=/My+Documents