grumpyvette

my c-4 corvette weights about 3300lbs without me in it, the reason I use those jack stands is that the wider base prevents tipping and they are MUCH stronger than the 3-6 ton size,if youve ever worked with other guys youll sooner or later see someone lean on a car while its up on jackstands and if its useing those flimsy cheap 2-3 ton stands chances are great that the car moves some, the 6 ton are better but not nearly in the same class as the 12 ton models

do you need to store extra cylinder heads long term without rust/damage? buy a few military surplus Medical transport boxes Size: 31" X 12" X 19" weight 26 lbs $30 they are air tight, fit heads, stack and store well long term, Ive used them for years to store heads, just spray the intire heads surface with LPS #3 wrap them in a dozen layers of news paper, insert them in a plastic garbage bag, then place them in the box and seal it, place the box on a shelf and your great grandchildren can open the air tight box and find heads in good condition 50 years from now http://www.calarmy.com/containers/boxes/otherboxes/

OR ..IF you don,t use good jack stands like this guy.........YOU could change this picture into a poster........... TITLE " how to get killed useing your corvette without even starting the engine!"

I think youll find these very handy if you work on cars and don,t have a lift BTW the 12 ton stands are PREFERED as they have a WIDER BASE and EXTRA STRENGTH,(if IM GOING UNDER A CAR I DON,T WANT TO BENCH PRESS THE DAMN THING TO GET OUT FROM UNDER IT) how much is you LIFE WORTH,BUY THE !12 ton RATED STANDS they are MUCH safer than the 3-6 ton stands IF ONLY BECAUSE THEY ARE FAR HARDER TO TIP OVER IF SOMEONE ROCKS THE CAR! 2 Piece Set These super heavy duty jack stands will hold most cars and trucks safely over 2 feet off the ground. Perfect for repair work or storage. Height: 19-1/2'' to 30-1/8'' Base: 12'' x 12-1/2'' Weight: 68 lbs. THIS ABOVE IS RIGHT OFF THE HF WEB SITE http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Disp...temnumber=34924 second, thing is IVE used a set of four very similar 12 ton jack stands from NORTHERN TOOL for years, with no problems what so ever , and when they are in their low setting they are at about the right height to allow you to work under the corvette http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/sto...19&categoryId=0 Torin Pair of 12–Ton Jack Stands 2 heavy–duty steel jack stands at one low price! Double locking pawl and tooth design for extra protection. Minimum height is 18 1/8in. Maximum height is 28in. In Stock Ship Wt. 63.0 lbs Item# 144872 Discount Price... $64.99 Sale Price... $54.99 110% Guaranteed Lowest Price! youll be getting them at a significant discount if they price match, which they should

thank you again, all that info helps!

thank you, even that advise is something that helps.

http://www.weldingmart.com/Qstore/p001493.htm http://www.htpweld.com/product_page/tig_welder/tig201.html heres two choices of approximately the same price range, ones a pulsed MIG and one a full TIG inverter welder, BOTH have thier strong and weak points your comments on which would be the best all around choice for a custom race shop where QUALITY WELDS are MANDATORY and speed is NOT important and WHY, would you pick that choice? would be greatly appreciated KEEP in mind that BOTH aluminum intakes and general steel welding like fabricating exhaust systems, roll cages, motor mounts, ETC. are going to be necessary, as the types of things welded

12.22 @ 114.29 where I race at sea level on a rare good dry and cool night btw this might help also http://www.bgsoflex.com/holley.html http://www.nastyz28.com/perftune.html http://www.shockley.net/holley-jets.asp http://www.prestage.com/Tech+Info/MiscSpecs/Holley+Carburators/default.aspx http://www.hardtopracing.com/articles/tech/holleytuning.htm http://www.bob2000.com/carb.htm

IM only 55 so IM still young at least , the wife says I have not aged since I was 19, Im still looking at building faster cars and looking for faster women

this will be a learning exercise for the newer guys, below are two dyno sheets from another site thanks to new2novas it compares the SAME ENGINE with TWO DIFFERANT CARBS,A 600cfm and a 750 cfm, notice that the 600cfm makes more power so if you just look at the power the 600 cfm carb would seem to be the better choice .......RIGHT??? WRONG!!!! heres the 600 heres the 750 this will be a learning exercise for the newer guys, below are two dyno sheets from another site thanks to new2novas it compares the SAME ENGINE with TWO DIFFERANT CARBS,A 600cfm and a 750 cfm, notice that the 600cfm makes more power so if you just look at the power the 600 cfm carb would seem to be the better choice .......RIGHT??? WRONG!!!! heres the 600 heres the 750 yes I looked at the dyno sheets and the 600 carb has a slight advantage AS THEY ARE NOW TUNED, after BOTH CARBS are correctly adjusted I think youll find the 600 carb makes for a better street combo, is more responsive and gets slightly better mileage, BUT the 750 carb will make MORE PEAK HORSEPOWER, and its easier to fine tune correctly, myself Id go with the 750 cfm why? look at the dyno sheet closely......... the engine was running BOTH richer and cooler with the current 750 cfm carb adjusted that way and that, loss of heat and rich mix cost you power!! the BSFC should stay close to about .45 your oil temp should have been 215F minimum and if you had both carbs running the same a/f ratio the 750 SHOULD have a slight advantage you were running about 10 degrees hotter and significantly closer to the ideal a/f ratio with the 600 than with the 750 BTW you should be running about 12.8:1 a/f ratio for max power and about 14.7:1 for low emissions and mileage at 9:1- 10:1 like the 750 runs now,and the oil temp under 215f your giving away a bunch of potential hp/tq BTW you should be running about 12.8:1 a/f ratio for max power and about 14.7:1 for low emissions and mileage at 9:1- 10:1 like the 750 runs now your giving away a bunch of potential hp/tq

"Grumpy, have you ever had a custom-ground cam made for your specs?" SURE! several times, but I have got to tell you that its mostly wasted money, sure its "cool" (I supose) to say its a custom cam, but if you know enought about matching components its a waste of time really simply because between, CROWER,CRANE,ERSON,ISKY,ENGLE,LUNATI,and CHEVY youll have a hard time finding an application that they don,t have a cam designed to fit almost exactly look http://www.nastyz28.com/sbchevy/sbccams.html http://avs.epix.net/schorrperformance/cams/_ChevySB_280-295.htm http://avs.epix.net/schorrperformance/cams/_ChevySB_279.htm http://avs.epix.net/schorrperformance/cams/_ChevyBB_290.htm http://avs.epix.net/schorrperformance/cams/_ChevyBB_290+.htm http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Downs/3000/cmspec.html http://www.engineparts.com/motorhead/techstuff/stockcspecs/chevrolet.html things to read http://www.newcovenant.com/speedcrafter/Engine/Cam/ http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/camshaft.html http://www.oregoncamshaft.com/cam-basics.html http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/techarticles/95298/ http://www.symuli.com/vw/camp1.html http://www.symuli.com/vw/camp2.html

keep in mind the cam used depends, on the compression, and displacement in the the application,plus the other components like trans and gearing, in my corvette Im useing a crane 119661 roller, but in a 3200 lb gen 1 camaro street/race, manual trans car, with the listed 4.56 rear gear, application the 114681 fits just fine, you MUST carefully match the components to the application, to get good results

EACH and every combo is a compromise, mixing the DCR, (the engines static compression ratio and cam combine to make, using the cam timing and LSA/OVERLAP ,) to get the most useful combo of effectively cylinder pressure and engine breathing to allow the most power strokes per second without spinning the engine so fast the cylinder fail to fill, your cam timing can be used to partly compensate for miss matched parts like a longer exhaust duration might help a restricted exhaust port There are NO absolute cam timing NUMBERS only factors that TEND to work better, when matched with other known factors Let’s build the 383-396 small block Chevrolet, and drop it into a first-generation Camaro that weighs about 3200 lbs. With a 4 speed manual trans Lets look at matching the components Engine torque, is the result, of cylinder pressure on the piston surface area, during the power stroke, while the cylinder pressure is high enough, to generate the maximum force, applied to the crank and connecting rods, the number of power strokes per second. The engine operates on a 720 degree repetitive cycle, but only approximately 30° from top dead center to 30° past top dead center have maximum cylinder pressure available on the piston, after that cylinder pressure falls off rapidly. By the time the piston has reached 90° past top dead center pressure has fallen off well past, peak and into the 50% lower range. the length of stroke and bore and valve size combined with the rocker ratio, effect the potential flow into the cylinder and when the max vacuum occures durring the stroke, the exhaust scavaging and rpm range also effect the results Your limited by the basic engine configuration and piston speed and port flow rates to about 6500rpm max ,if your going to fill the cylinders effectively and that cam will place your torque peak at about 5100rpm where we want it, keep in mind that the overlap and the LSA effect the engine breathing and we want the torque peak as wide as possible but the higher the peak the higher the average hp ,PROVIDED we gear the car to spend most of its time in the rpm range between peak tq and just above peak hp during acceleration, and PROVIDED you’ve matched the exhaust savaging and intake runner lengths ram tune lengths to help fill the cylinders If Your dynamic compression ratio, it correctly matched to the Cam timing and engine stroke, and rpm range to allow the volumetric efficiency, to fill cylinders effectively in that selected rpm range Now at the 3400rpm range we will be filling the cylinders 28 time about second, but by 6800rpm its down to 57 times a second and the times too short to effectively fill the cylinders Horsepower, is a mathematical formula, for the rate at which torque can be applied, naturally you must match the car is gearing to take advantage of the engines most effective rpm range. We will look at the factors involved in how they effect each other in a known effective combo. We got the displacement,( 383-396 small block ) now I will pick a cam and match the dynamic compression ratio, Lets use, the Crane #114681 which Ive found to be a great choice http://www.cranecams.com/?show=browseParts&action=partSpec&partNumber=114681&lvl=2&prt=5 the manufacturer suggests the compression ratios should be between 10.5 in 12:1,and also suggests the basic rpm range for the scam is 3400 rpm to 6800 rpm. Still based solely on that for now, we can see, the average compression ratio is 11.3 to one, and the average rpm range is 5100 rpm If we use PATS dcr calc, http://cochise.uia.net/pkelley2/DynamicCR.html we find the DCR of that cam and an 11.3:1 scr will be around 8.6:1 and more than likely need aluminum heads like the AFR210cc to both work with the flow rates needed and cpr used, with pump gas If we use this calculator http://users.erols.com/srweiss/calcrpm.htm we quickly find. That the rear gear ratio, should be approximately 4.33-4.88:1 to one, we can use this calculator http://www.newcovenant.com/speedcrafter/calculators/intake.htm http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/runnertorquecalc.html to get approximate intake port cross-section and this calculator http://www.bgsoflex.com/intakeln.html AGAIN youll find the AFR 210cc about correct for flow range and cross sectional area too get the approximate intake runner length from the back of the intake valve, to the carburetor youll find the longer runners in a DUAL plane might match better to both length, car weight and cross sectional area, but your right on the border , and Ive found the EDELBROCK SUPER VIC, intake works fairly well if you pick the 4.88 gears, while the EDELBROCK RPM works better with 4.11-4.33 gears header length is next http://www.prestage.com/Car+Math/Engine+Building+Calculators/Optimum+Header+Length/default.aspx http://www.pontiacracing.net/js_header_length1.htm we find to get max power we need header primaries in the 39â€-48†range change the cpr,trans gearing,rear gear,intake,header size,ETC. and the cam should be changed to better match the combo BTW this combo works best with 1.6:1 ratio rockers and NITROUS in the 150hp-200hp range here some stuff to play with http://hotrodworks.net/hotrodmath/hotrodmath.html http://victorylibrary.com/mopar/header-tech.htm http://victorylibrary.com/mopar/cam-tech.htm

thank you gentelman, Im still looking into my options but most guys have said the same thing,(buy a miller TIG, water cool torch setup so thats what Im leaning towards) but please feel free to coment on models ETC,

help me make a choice here gentelman I did not get nearly the info I was hopeing for when I posted a question in this section, on welders,IM in the market for a new QUALITY SHOP WELDER,it must run on 220v feed current single phase, Ive used , OXY-acetolene and buzz box stick welders for years and have used MIG and TIG only on occasion, but I need more info from you gentelmen to make up my mind on which welder to purchase.(Im not spending $2000-$3500 without KNOWING its the correct tool!) I want to do BOTH nice looking welds on ALUMINUM EFI intakes from thick to thin(1/8"-3/8") so a TIG seems like a good choice, and QUALITY not speed is important to me!,since IVE done lots of years with OXY-acetolene I think TIG will be the better choice but IM open for suggestions and IM doing general hot rod work like frames,headers,roll bars , some body work,ETC so a MIG looks ok, but not having used migs on aluminum much, Im not sure whats my lack of skill with a new welder and what just not available from that particular model, theres inverter and transformer based welders and several brands, Ill post a few links, and ID like the experianced welders to point out both the good and bad points on each as IM SURE we can all pick up some info, and PLEASE feel free to add info or other choices your suggestions, knowledge and experiance are very usefull http://www.daytonamig.com/etig.htm http://store.cyberweld.com/milsyn250dxt.html http://www.htpweld.com/product_page/tig_welder/tig201.html http://www.weldingmart.com/Qstore/p001850.htm http://www.weldingdirect.com/tig252helsys.htmlquality, repair parts availability and service counts so figure that into the choice also! any further input from the experianced welders on the site is much appreciated

thats a good question that comes up very often the short answer is that ALL the components must match the EFFECTIVE rpm range and your DURRATION,DYNAMIC COMPRESSION and RAM TUNING on both the EXHAUST SCAVAGING AND INTAKE RUNNER CROSS SECTION AND LENGTH must complement each other your ports cross sectional area and length from the back of the intake valve to stack enterance distance will have a major effect on the most effective rpm range provided the engines cam and compression also match the combo correctly here this may help http://www.newcovenant.com/speedcrafter/calculators/runnerarea.htm http://www.newcovenant.com/speedcrafter/calculators/intake.htm http://www.bgsoflex.com/intakeln.html http://www.victorylibrary.com/mopar/intake-tech.htm http://www.sdsefi.com/tech.html http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/runnertorquecalc.html http://www.howtodoitvideos.com/html/cross_ram_manifold.html its a difficult concept to grasp at first but you need to understand the differance between STATIC COMPRESSION RATIO AND DYNAMIC COMPRESSION RATIO let me try and explain, the short version is that the PISTON COMPRESSES NOTHING untill BOTH VALVES ARE CLOSED, thats the only compression ratio that matters, since its the only compression ratio the engine ever sees. static compression is simply the differance between the cylinder volume at BOTTOM DEAD CENTER(BDC) and its compressed volume at TOP DEAD CENTER (TDC), dynamic compression takes into account that on the pistons upward compression stroke the valves have not yet closed and nothing gets compressed by the piston untill they do, that of course depends on the cam and rockers used heres a calculator for static cpr, which you need to figure first http://www.newcovenant.com/speedcrafter/calculators/compressionratio.htm let me point out a few things first look at this chart http://www.iskycams.com/ART/techinfo/ncrank1.pdf then lets assume your 350 sbc engine has a static compression ratio of 11:1 but youve installed this cam http://dab7.cranecams.com/SpecCard/DisplayCatalogCard.asp?PN=114681&B1=Display+Card looking at the cam specs we see that the effective stroke is not the 3.48" that the static compression ratio is measured from about 2.6 inches from tdc so your true working compression is closer to 8.1:1 NOT 11:1 heres a longer more detailed explanation and access to the software to figure dynamic cpr with the cam your useing in your engine http://cochise.uia.net/pkelley2/DynamicCR.html keep in mind that you can easilly run a stattic compressio of 11:1 with aluminum heads if you keep the cam timing in a range so that the DYNAMIC COMPRESSION is CLOSE TO 8:1 take the time to understand the concept,it VERY IMPORTANT read this http://victorylibrary.com/mopar/cam-tech.htm http://victorylibrary.com/mopar/otto-c.htm http://victorylibrary.com/mopar/cam-tech-c.htm http://victorylibrary.com/mopar/rod-tech-c.htm http://victorylibrary.com/mopar/piston_position-c.htm http://www.iskycams.com/techtips.html#2003 http://victorylibrary.com/mopar/rod-tech.htm http://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/PICS/detonation/detonation.html http://www.chevytalk.org/threads/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=UBB64&Number=397334&Forum=UBB64&Words=LSA&Match=Entire%20Phrase&Searchpage=3&Limit=25&Old=allposts&Main=397176&Search=true#Post397334 if cams are a mystery please take the time to read these, it will get you a good start http://www.newcovenant.com/speedcrafter/tech/camshaft/1.htm (read LESSONs 1-8) http://www.wighat.com/fcr3/confusion.htm http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/techarticles/95298/ http://www.idavette.net/hib/camcon.htm http://www.centuryperformance.com/valveadjustment.htm http://www.totalengineairflow.com/tech/valvelashing.htm http://www.chevytalk.com/tech/engine/Cam_Selection.html http://www.chevytalk.com/tech/101/Cam_Theory.html http://www.babcox.com/editorial/ar/ar119736.htm http://www.mercurycapri.com/technical/engine/cam/vtg.html http://www.symuli.com/vw/camp1.html http://www.symuli.com/vw/camp2.html http://home.wxs.nl/~meine119/tech/camqa.html http://www.chevytalk.org/threads/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=UBB64&Number=200511&Forum=UBB64&Words=your%20kidding&Match=Entire%20Phrase&Searchpage=0&Limit=25&Old=allposts&Main=200510&Search=true#Post200511 http://www.crower.com/misc/valve_timing_chart.html http://www.speedomotive.com/Building%20Tips.htm ] http://chevyhiperformance.com/techarticles/94138/ http://www.aera.org/Members/EngineTech/engine.htm http://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/PICS/detonation/detonation.html BEFORE GOING ANY FURTHER, heres a few combos to look over http://www.ryanscarpage.50megs.com/combos1.html http://www.chevymania.com/dyno/ http://www.bracketmasters.com/small_block_stroker_383_cu.htm http://victorylibrary.com/mopar/nitrous-tech-c.htm keep in mind that the dynamic compression ratio,cam,timing heads port flow and intake type and flow rates, plus the header exhaust scavaging of the combo must match for the best results heres some other things to look over http://www.built4speed.com/ http://chevyhiperformance.com/techarticles/71298/index4.html http://www.speedomotive.com/building%20tips.htm http://www.strokerkits.com/build_your_own_383.htm http://www.dumpit.org/grimreaper/reaper_engine.htm http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/77458/ if you decide to build a 383-406-427 youll want to buy an INTERNALLY BALLANCED ROTATING ASSEMBLY http://www.scatcrankshafts.com/smblckrotatingkits02.html and I WOULD STRONGLY SUGGEST (H) style cap screw connecting rods with 7/16" rod bolts BUT you really should get these books FIRST and read them before going any further, it will help a good deal,AND SAVE YOU YEARS AND THOUSANDS OF WASTED DOLLARS, while only the basic info is presented it still makes for a good knowledge base, and referance[/color] IF YOU SMART ENOUGHT TOO DO YOURSELF A HUGE FAVOR FIRST and buy these books, it will be the best money you ever spent, read them, and you will be miles ahead of the average guy youll save thousands of dollars and thousands of hours once youve got a good basic understanding of what your trying to do! IF YOUR ON A VERY LIMITED BUDGET START WITH BOOKS 3,4,AND 5, ONLY BUT YOU NEED AT LEAST THOSE BEFORE DOING ANYTHING ELSE [ http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/0912656069/ref=pd_sxp_elt/102-1234339-0571324?%5Fencoding=UTF8&v=glance http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/1557880298/ref=pd_bxgy_img_2/102-1234339-0571324?v=glance&s=books HOW TO BUILD THE SMALL BLOCK CHEVEROLET by LARRY ATHERTON&LARRY SCHREIB . HOW TO BUILD MAX PERFORMANCE CHEVY SMALL BLOCKS ON A BUDGET by DAVID VIZARD . JOHN LINGENFELTER on modifying small-block chevy engines how to build & modify CHEVROLET small-block V-8 CAMSHAFTS & VALVTRAINS BY DAVID VIZARD SMOKEY YUNICK,S POWER SECRETS SMALL BLOCK CHEVY ENGINE BUILDUPS KNOWING HOW TO DO AND WHY YOUR DOING EACH MODIFICATION AND WHAT YOULL LIKELY GAIN FROM EACH PUTS YOU WAY AHEAD OF THE AVERAGE GUY WHOSE JUST BUYING PARTS ALMOST AT RANDOM AND HOPEING THE RESULTS WILL BE GOOD[/color] picking a cam for your combo, lets say your building a hot street/strip 383 with a auto trans, alto the process will remain the same with any engine combo, the rpm ranges,etc. will change with the engine combo you chose to build ok lets go thru the basics first the reasonable rpm range with a 383 youll want to stay to a max rpm thats not much more than 4000fpm, thats about 6500rpm with the 3.75 stroke next youll want to find a cam that allows both a reasonable dynamic compression ratio and good volumetric efficiency up to that approximate 6500 rpm red line next youll need to know your true static compression ratio http://www.newcovenant.com/speedcrafter/calculators/compressionratio.htm and then dynamic compression ratio http://cochise.uia.net/pkelley2/DynamicCR.html next youll want to find a cam with a reasonable overlap / LSA and lift for your application http://members.uia.net/pkelley2/Overlap.html http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/techarticles/95298/ these are the valve timeing overlap ranges that are most likely to work correctly trucks/good mileage towing 10-35 degs overlap daily driven low rpm performance 30-55degs overlap hot street performance 50-75 degs overlap oval track racing 70-95degs overlap dragster/comp eliminator engines 90-115 degs overlap The LSA, or lobe separation angle, is ground into the cam and cannot be changed. It is the angle that separates the intake and exhaust lobe for a particular cylinder, and is measured in camshaft degrees. The intake lobe centerline is measured in crankshaft degrees. The #1 intake lobe centerline is usually between 100° to 110° ATDC and is what you use to degree the cam. The cam manufacturer will publish the specs for the cam based on a given intake lobe centerline. Comp Cams, for instance, produces a large number of cams with 110_° LSA ground 4° advanced, so they list the specs for the cam with a 106° intake lobe centerline. You can calculate the ILC by adding the intake opening angle in °BTDC, the intake closing angle in °ABDC, plus 180° for the distance from TDC to BDC. Divide by 2 and subtract the intake opening angle and you will have the ILC. For example a 12-430-8 Comp Cam lists IO at 34°BTDC, IC at 66° ATDC, so 34 + 66 + 180 = 280. 280/2 = 140. 140 - 34 = 106° ILC. this is some of the best basic cam info youll find so read this first http://www.newcovenant.com/speedcrafter/tech/camshaft/1.htm (lessons 1-8) then youll want to match the valve lift to the port flow charicteristics http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/techarticles/41598/ now since your not giving all the info, Ill need to guess at some info. I can tell you right now youll be looking at a cam with close to 230 deg@.o50 lift, wheither it should be slightly larger or smaller in duration, its LSA and wheither the cam needs a longer duration exhaust lobe will be determined by the other parts in your combo and if your going to run nitrous without knowing your true compression ratio,your true cylinder head flow, and your rear gearing and trans stall speed you can,t get a true picture, your cars weight and tire height will also have a noticable effect on the results, so you need to factor in your probable shift points and rpm drop between gears http://www.prestage.com/carmath/dynochart.asp http://www.wallaceracing.com/reargear.htm heres how to find the port size that close to ideal http://www.newcovenant.com/speedcrafter/calculators/runnerarea.htm]http://www.newcovenant.com/speedcrafter/calculators/runnerarea.htm]http://www.newcovenant.com/speedcrafter/calculators/runnerarea.htm heres how to find the port length thats close to ideal http://www.bgsoflex.com/intakeln.html heres how to get some idea on the header config http://victorylibrary.com/mopar/header-tech-c.htm keep in mind that you don,t want to build an engine that makes 500hp at a narrow peak at 6500rpm if your stall speed and gearing and trans shift points limmit your engine to the 2000rpm-5500rpm range. WELL YOU ASKED WHY!!! AND HOW TO FIGURE IT OUT!! yeah ,I know your swamped! don,t worry, just wade into the info, it will make sence after awhile!

JAMIE T THANKS FOR THE INPUT!! BTW http://www.htpweld.com/product_page/tig_welder/tig201.html I was EMAILED this as a suggestion?? any input gentelmen??

personally I think pat kellys calc http://cochise.uia.net/pkelley2/DynamicCR.html is one of the best heres some differant calculators http://www.kb-silvolite.com/calc.php?action=comp2 http://www.wallaceracing.com/dynamic-cr.php http://www.smokemup.com/auto_math/compression_ratio.php http://not2fast.wryday.com/turbo/compression/cranking_pressure.shtml average the results I think the Wallace calculator much less acurate but i usually use all 5 and average the results KNOWING it may be slightly high but that tends to keep you out of serious detonation problems keep in mind the DCR is not an EXACT CPR value that you reach and above that your into engine failure!,its a GUIDE that you use to evaluate your combo, use of things like aluminum heads, mpfi vs carbs,pollishing the combustion chanber and coating the piston surfaces, knock sensors, nitrous/alcohol injection,quench, tumble,swirl, ETC. all result in changes in detonation threshholds you engine may or may not run without detonation at 8.5:1 dcr, but its a good guess that exceeding that level with randomly choosen parts while using 87 octane fuel is usually a bad idea. Ive run 13.7:1 static cpr in a street engine, and without detonation, but there were several other factors in the engine combo that allowed it to work its the total combo and the way all the parts work with each other that makes or breaks a combos effectiveness 270HDP – adv 270/276 .050 214/218 112 lca 4 deg advanced; 49 deg overlap; intake closes at 63 deg 12cc: scr 9.6/ dcr 7.8 18cc: scr 9.0/ dcr 7.3 22cc: scr 8.7/ dcr 7.1 would be my choice and heres why first theres several factors at work the vortec heads are most effective in the 2000-5000rpm range, above that the small port size matched to a 350 displacement tends to limit flow, youll need to match the other parts to that upper edge of about 3000rpm -5000 rpm your headers exhaust scavaging will effect the rpm range where the best powers made but since most headers use primaries that are shorter than ideal, the rpm range they are most effective in is higher than the ports ideally run in, this also tend to put you in the 3000-5000rpm range detonation with iron heads and pump gas under high loads is USUALLY not a problem if you stay just under 8:1 DCR the 7.8:1 dcr matches the cams most effective rpm range (270HDP – adv 270/276 .050 214/218 112 lca 4 deg advanced)BTW its already 4 degrees advanced installed dot to dot) MAXIMIZING DCR to just under detonation range increases TORQUE over the whole rpm range youll want a DUAL PLANE INTAKE NOT A SINGLE PLANE INTAKE!! best rear gearing will be in the 3.3-3.7 range keep in mind that the milder cam will build low rpm torque slightly faster but drop off faster over 3500rpm, you don,t require much hp or tq to cruise around on half throttle or less, and theres not much sence in maximizing your combo for 1/4-1/2 trottle operation torque, but you can use all you can get between 3500rpm and 5000rpm when your passing or racing so the choice needs be the slightly wilder cam here! the slightly wilder cam with its greater overlap will pull harder once your above 3500rpm, either cam works here but when your foots on the floor the better breathing combo will show an advantage

http://www.jandrweldingsupply.com/store/Millermatic251.html http://www.brwelder.com/indextemplate.cfm?file=shop/results.cfm&SubCategory=1 Millermatic 251 & 30A Spoolgun This item is on sale. MILLERMATIC 251 With 30A SpoolGun Package # 951 007 The Millermatic® 251 provides a superior arc when welding 22 gauge up to 1/2 in thick metal. Engineered for performance, the Active Arc Stabilizer™ provides the most consistent arc starts in its class along with optimum weld performance in all settings.Includes the Millermatic 251, 30A spoolgun, 2 regulators, dual cylinder rack , manuals, extra tips. The versatile Millermatic 251 is spoolgun-ready with two factory installed gun trigger receptacles. Adjustable run-in contol can be set for both MIG or spool gun, this easily accessable feature allows user to optimize starts to specific applications right from the front panel. Gun-On-Demand™ lets you easily change from your MIG gun to optional spool gun with no switches to flip. MILLERMATIC 251 Features Welds materials from 22 gauge up to 1/2 inch thick in a single pass. Adjustable run-in control is individually settable for both MIG and spool guns. Controlled on the front panel, this easily accessible feature allows the user to optimize starts to the application. Patent-pending Active Arc Stabilizer™ provides excellent starts proven superior to the competition! Gun-On-Demand™ automatically senses and activates the gun you're using when you pull the trigger. Industrial, Quick-change drive rolls are easy to change and require NO TOOLS. Built-in dual gun and cable holder for your MIG gun, spool gun and cables. Consumable compartment and access to wire drive system. Digital meters allow presetting of voltage and wire feed speed, and display settings 5 seconds after you stop welding............................ FREE SHIPPING IN THE 48 STATES before I write the check ................ Id like to get feed back from someone whos used one, IVE only got a breif test, but it seems ideal,this is most likely the next welder IM buying THOUGHTS GENTELMAN???

I recently bought a large profesional tool box from SEARS for $1700 on sale! but the picture above is a STAINLESS tool box that sells at COSTCO/SAMS CLUB for under $700 I could and most likely SHOULD have bought TWO of these INSTEAD

the efficiency of the cylinders exhaust scavaging and the rpm range where it occures is effected in a MAJOR way by the headers and exhaust design, changing the exhaust restriction levels almost always results in a MANDATORY total retune/rejet or remap of the intake to match the new engine characteristics read this http://www.uucmotorwerks.com/html_product/sue462/backpressuretorquemyth.htm

generally a single plane intake won,t give you possitive results untill YOUR AVERAGE RPM stays at or above about 5000 rpm and you don,t fall lower than about 3500rpm at any time in the run. I think youll see the vic juniors performance improve once the 4.11 rear gears are installed simply because the average rpms the engine sees will increase about 17% single plane intakes RARELY work well if the cams duration is under about 235@.050 lift either, let me put it another way...if your not spinning the engine over 6500rpm for a good part of the track,and / or useing 383 or greater displacement a QUALITY dual plane intake is likely the better choice. don,t forget that what goes in needs to go out, effective header/exhaust scavaging is mandatory your bog or lost torque off the line is more than likely the result of lower port air speeds, that fill the cylinders less efficiently, changing the gears will help, as the AVERAGE RPM and port speed will increase with the increased engine rpms BTW IVE NEVER yet seen the vic JR intake give quite as good of results as the SUPER VIC intake gives IF THE ENGINES TRUELY BUILT TO RUN 4500-7500rpm and the displacement is 383-427cid, minimum http://www.newcovenant.com/speedcrafter/calculators/intake.htm http://victorylibrary.com/mopar/intake-tech-c.htm http://www.ramairbox.com/ http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/runnertorquecalc.html

exhaust info, http://hotrodders.com/kb/engine/articles.html#exhaust cam info http://hotrodders.com/kb/engine/articles.html#camshaft intake info http://hotrodders.com/kb/engine/articles.html#intake ETC

chevys powder rods rely mostly on the bearing crush not the tabs to keep the bearings in place http://www.jimcookperformance.com/TechNotes/TN%2015.html http://www.jimcookperformance.com/TechNotes/TN%2016.html

pull all the plugs and push in the clutch or put it in neutral after the accesories belts are removed,and rockers are removed, and test with a torque wrench on the front of the crank, it should start to turn over BEFORE you get to about 40 ft lbs MAX Id be realy interested to find out why, and correct the problem if it was my car and it would not turn over before I reached 40 ft lbs