grumpyvette

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm I think he makes several very good points! change the oil and filter after the first few hours use mineral not synthetic oil durring the rings breaking in. the quality of the hone job is critical on ring seal keep the engine rpms up above 2000 or so Ive always broken my engines in at part throttle 2500-4000rpm (constantly, SLOWLY, reving the engine between those rpm levels) for the first 2-3 hours, or driving the car while accelerating and changing gears frequently, the best results have always been when the engine rpms never are allowed to stay constant,at any rpm level and never, ever allowed to idle, but change and when under varying loads . then I changed the oil and filter and run them fairly hard after that, I have several guys that I know that just run the $%^& out of new engines under the (HEY IF IT BREAKS IT WAS A BAD ENGINE concept) both ways seem to work fine PROVIDED YOU CHANGE THE OIL AND FILTERS WITHIN THE FIRST 3 hours but keep in mind that your not only seating the rings, your seating the bearings, cam lobes and valvetrain too! Id advise keeping the rpms below 5000rpm MAXIMUM for at least the first hour untill all the parts wear in so the heat generated stays at reasonable levels from the new parts lappng together all I would add is that installing a few magnets in the oil pan can prevent an amazing amount of metalic dust from reaching your engines bearings (see the other post on engine magnets) and keep in mind that a large capacity 7-8 qts baffled oil pan and windage screen matched to a high volume oil pump , WORKING AS A SYSTEM can noticeably improve engine life under high stress conditions like the differance between running fine and blowing the engine!!!

"Any source for the magnets Grumpy? " http://www.wondermagnets.com/cgi-bin/edatcat/WMSstore.pl?user_action=detail&catalogno=0001 these are NOT REFRIGERATOR MAGNETS "#0001" can pick up a SBC cylinderhead, and you wont beleive the amount of crud they remove from your oil and prevent from reaching the bearings © 2003 ForceField Email us toll free (877)944-6247 or (970)484-7257 Also, you can visit us at our retail store in Fort Collins, Colorado, USA at 614 South Mason Street! Ive been installing 4 of these lately in the corners of the oil pan sump,nothing magnetic (metallic dust from engine wear, assorted trash,etc.)can get past them, I also sometimes install one near the rear oil drain in each head to collect broken valve train shrapnel in case of a failure to limit damage on race engines. btw if you dont want to install then inside the sump you can J&B weld them to the outside of the oil pan permenently or just place them their if you want them removable,TRUST ME THEY WON,T FALL OFF ON THIER OWN attached to the steel oil pan sump the problem I see with these http://www.magna-guard.com/MagnaGuard.html makes/sells these is that yuo need to keep in mind ALL THAT CRAP PASSED THRU AND PUT WEAR ON THE OIL PUMP FIRST! placing the MUCH, MUCH STRONGER MAGNETS ABOVE IN THE SUMP PREVENTS THAT and the velocity of the oil passing over the magnet in the filter is far higher so theres a very slight chance something might get pushed past the magnet and not get caught by the magnet or filter and make it to the bearings -------------------- if you cant smoke the tires from a 60mph rolling start... your engine needs work!

Chevy Offset Oil-Filter Adapter Late-model Corvette LT1 V8s use a space-saving offset filter adapter. On many tight custom installations, this assembly can eliminate the need for a remote oil filter and all of the extra complex plumbing. The offset mount fits Chevy engines machined for the standard PF25 or PF35-style filter, but it requires the skinnier PF52 filter.part # 12556204) normal cost $about $90.00 the gaskets are # 88893990 ($3.40) bolt # 14092398 $3.84 fitting# 462659 $5.49 A--Filter B--Adapter C--O-Ring D--Gasket E--Attatching Bolt

IM ASKING? I currently use a laptop with custom software but was wondering what other guys use?

OBD I & II Code Scanner wheres the best value ? what models work best? which are breakdown prone? which are acurate? examples http://www.levineautoparts.com/autez50obdii.html http://www.tradervar.com/store/agora.cgi?cart_id=&page=cp9145.htm http://www.tradervar.com/store/agora.cgi?cart_id=&page=cp9150.htm http://www.obd2.com/personal/personal_scantool.htm http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=43989&item=2464190574 IM ASKING? because I currently use a laptop with custom software (not that listed above)but was wondering what other guys use?

maybe this will be of interest http://www.goingfaster.com/spo/325_horsepower_305_cid_chevrolet.html http://www.newcovenant.com/firebird/stockengine.htm http://www.carcraft.com/howto/854/ http://www.hioutput.com/tech/400hp/400hp.html http://www.ws6transam.org/ported.html

we need to know your REALISTIC hp goals and what the cars gearing,transmission and emission requirements are and all the other info you can give,what YOUR mechanical skills are,but generally headers, a free flow exhaust, increased compression,a cam swap and better flowing heads will give good results, look over these sights for ideas http://www.ryanscarpage.50megs.com/combos1.html http://www.73-87.com/chp/chp.htm http://chevyhiperformance.com/techarticles/71298/index.html you really should get these books and read them before going any further, it will help a good deal,AND SAVE YOU YEARS AND THOUSANDS OF WASTED DOLLARS, while only the basic info is presented it still makes for a good knowledge base, and referance IF YOU SMART ENOUGHT TOO DO YOURSELF A HUGE FAVOR FIRST and buy these books, it will be the best money you ever spent, read them, and you will be miles ahead of the average guy, youll save thousands of dollars and thousands of hours once youve got a good basic understanding of what your trying to do! IF YOUR ON A VERY LIMITED BUDGET START WITH BOOKS 3,4,AND 5, ONLY BUT YOU NEED AT LEAST THOSE BEFORE DOING ANYTHING ELSE http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/0912656069/ref=pd_sxp_elt/102-1234339-0571324?%5Fencoding=UTF8&v=glance http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/1557880298/ref=pd_bxgy_img_2/102-1234339-0571324?v=glance&s=books HOW TO BUILD THE SMALL BLOCK CHEVEROLET by LARRY ATHERTON&LARRY SCHREIB . HOW TO BUILD MAX PERFORMANCE CHEVY SMALL BLOCKS ON A BUDGET by DAVID VIZARD . JOHN LINGENFELTER on modifying small-block chevy engines how to build & modify CHEVROLET small-block V-8 CAMSHAFTS & VALVTRAINS BY DAVID VIZARD SMOKEY YUNICK,S POWER SECRETS SMALL BLOCK CHEVY ENGINE BUILDUPS

look this over in detail http://www.c4vettes.com/l98.htm http://www.midniteworks.com/vettecodes/vettecodes.html http://www.c4vettes.com/engine.htm buy and read these books

the rear cam plug is chevy part # 10241154, its instalkled cup sid out and I normally use a small amount of hard set sealant on the outer edge and use a punch to lightly lock it in place the cam button installed in the cam gear is a great saftey item and dirt cheap! leave about .015 clearance between the cover and the cam button http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ProductDisplay?prrfnbr=2680&prmenbr=361 http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ProductDisplay?prrfnbr=2667&prmenbr=361

braze the pick-up in place ONLY AFTER REMOVING THE BYEPASS SPRING AND VERIFYING THAT THE PICK-UP IS 3/8"-1/2" from the pan floor when the pans INSTALLED, then reinstall the spring with the internal piston, on the byepass circuit when its room temp. check that the internal piston on that spring moves freely and that the gears spin with no binding points, check that the pick-up tube does not extend internally enought to bind the gears, check the pumps end gear and other clearances and put a small amount of moly grease on the gears to help it prime fast before reassembling it. don,t forget to prime the engine before starting it almost every sbc engine I build uses a standard voluum big block pump or a high voluum standard pressure oil pump with no problems at all, my 383 in my 1985 vette gets pulled out and checked , new rings and bearings just as a standard rebuild about every 18 months and not once has either the distrib. or cam gear show excessive or for that matter even measurable wear, the fact that I run a 9.5qt oil pan, with magnets that pick up all metalic dust, good oil filters, and 90% plus synthetic oil, a groove in the lower distributor oil band, that sprays a constant stream of oil onto the contact point I think is the main factor BTW http://www.melling.com/highvol.html http://www.melling.com/engoil.html http://www.melling.com/miscon.html now think it thru, (1)pressure is the resistance to oil flow (2) the high voluum pump can push about 25% more oil (3) the oil pump bye-pass circuit limits the max pressure in either size pump to about 65lbs-75 lbs MAXIMUM before it BYE-PASSES all additional oil voluum (4) the engine can accept and use only the max flow voluum that the engine passages can flow at the max pressure the pump provides , at any point less than max pressure the passages can flow only what the pressure and voluum provided by the pump supplies (5)if the bearing clearances can flow more than the pump provides in voluum and pressure at any rpm level the film of cooling oil that provides a cushion between the bearing surfaces are at risk of not being supported and seperated by that cushion of oil (6) now since the sweep voluum is greater with the high voluum pump it will reach that bye-pass circuits max pressure at about 25% lower rpms and supply a POTENTIALLY higher voluum of oil to the supply passages/bearings (7)SO... all a high voluum pump does is provide the maximum oil flow the engine can use up to the max pressure allowed by the bye-pass circuit at a 25% lower rpm level if the system can reach max pressure, but it also supplies 25% more oil at every rpm level below that point to provide additional cooling and protection for the engine. and if the engine can flow more than the stock pump can provide the high voluum pump helps fill the need faster (8)oil flow through the bearing clearances INCREASES at a faster rate as the rpms increase (9) in most engines the oil flow can be provided by the stock pump IF the clearances are close to stock AND THE RPM LEVELS ARE KEPT IN ABOUT THE idle-6000rpm range but if rpm levels exceed ABOUT 6000rpm,or if bearing loads greatly exceed the stock hp levels, or the clearances are greater than stock, the high voluum pump is a good idea , simply because it potentially provides that extra volume of oil. if you choose to install a high volume oil pump you should SERIOUSLY concider the fact that the pump is only a small part of the whole oil system,(which includes a high volume BAFFLED oil pan (7qts or more is ideal) and a windage screen, which is necessary to quickly return that extra oil to the sump, and doing the distributor mod is a big help, as it prevents any potential for cam/gear wear (something already almost non-existant with synthetic oil and the proper distributor gear material.)

brazethe pick-up in place ONLY AFTER REMOVING THE BYEPASS SPRING AND VERIFYING THAT THE PICK-UP IS 3/8"-1/2" from the pan floor when the pans INSTALLED, then reinstall the spring when its room temp.

I figured out almost instantly that THE POST was only a JOKE! but it was STILL DAMN FUNNY

I have been wanting to do that swap for years! if I could find a cherry (Z) at a good price I would do it! the advantages are basically a dirt cheap max torque combo with a front mount dist. for greater firewall clearance

this question was so funny I just had to post it!! "Ok I got bought a NOS system for christmas Just had to do it. Any way it is a single nozzle shot with a 100 shot nozzle. I put it in..no leaks or anything in the lines. Here is my problem...I don't feel any hp gain when I do it. I don't really get why, I should feel a 100 shot in 2nd or 3rd gear but I don't. Like I said before, no leaks, I went through the fire wall, only hard part was drilling the cam cover. the nozzle hole is a perfect fit. Can anybody help on why I would not feel it...all the presure gauges are fine as I said before..and I am 99% sure that their are no leaks when I hit the button. You can also email me at Roku_F20C@hotmail.com for your help. Thanks." heres a picture that may help

ITS A VALID PART # ITS JUST NOT IN ALL THE DATA BASES YET! MY LOCAL CHEVY PARTS GUY SAYS THE HEADS WILL BE AVAILIABLR IN THE NEXT 30-60 DAYS. Scoggin Dickey Part Center - 5901 Spur 327 - Lubbock, TX 79424 Order Line 1-800-456-0211 - Tech Line 1-806-798-4108 - Fax Line 1-806-798-4086 ALSO HAS THEM ON ORDER ACCORDING TO THE GUY IN TECH SUPPORT i TALKED WITH , LOOK THEY ALREADY HAVE THE 383/425HP LISTED http://www.sdpc2000.com/cart.asp?action=prod_detail&catid=120&pid=156334

"What is the difference between a "full roller" and a "roller tip" rocker arm? Got pics? " stamped aluminum forged

get a copy of the april 2004 " HOT ROD MAGAZINE " starting on page 42-43 is quite a bit of usefull info on that subject basically says the engine your looking for was available in 99-present GM trucks/suvs, caddy AWD escalade and 03-present chevy AWD ss pickups look for (hollander #5460) the 02-03 engines have better flowing heads average price $4000plus with computer and wiring , add $1000 for a trans included

heres a simple way to get close to the correct length BUY ONE OF THESE TO CHECK WITH! THAT ALONG WITH CHECKING CLEARANCES SHOULD BE ALL YOULL NEED TO GET A GOOD IDEA ON VALVE TRAIN GEOMETERY http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ProductDisplay?prrfnbr=3567&prmenbr=361 after making sure the valve springs are correctly installed you drop the checker in place on the rocker stud and install your adjustable pushrod adjust the length to fit and measure the resulting length if its within twenty thousands of the stock length its fine for most applications, if its more than 30 thousands long or short get the closest length set available btw, if your one of the people that still does not own an adjustable push rod! you can easily make your own by cutting a stock pushrod in 1/2 (2 pieces), removeing 1 inch from the total length an then with about 2 " of a 4 inch section of 3/16 or 1/4" thread rod installed and (in one section epoxy it in place leaving about 2" sticking out thread two nuts onto the thread rod and slip on the other end of the cut pushrod,(no epoxy) use the two nuts to adjust to stock length and let the epoxy harded in the one section[/color] now you can easily measure and order custom push rods useing the pushrod checker and adjustable push rod as tools AND YEAH IT ONLY WORKS WITH THE CYLINDER HEADS ON AND THE INTAKE REMOVED BECAUSE THE HOLE IN THE CYLINDER HEAD that GUIDEs THE PUSH ROD WON,T ALLOW THE NUTS ON THE ADJUSTABLE PUSHROD TO PASS THRU, UNLESS YOU PLACE THE CUT ABOUT 1" from the UPPER END OF THE ADJUSTABLE TEST PUSHROD [color:"red"] BUT I prefer to place the adjusting nuts centered as I like to watch for all clearances with the intake manifold removed while manually checking as I turn the engine over by hand durring assembly, and at that point, while checking all the clearances, I use test springs which apply very little load on the push rod http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ProductDisplay?prrfnbr=3272&prmenbr=361 HERES OTHER TOOLS YOU MIGHT NEED SOMETHING TO READ http://www.compcams.com/information/Products/Pushrods/ CCA-7705 5.800 in. to 9.800 in. adjustment range, Master pushrod length checker 4 piece kit ... $78.69 here

the true aluminum roller rockers will allow your engine so both run slightly cooler oil temps and make 15-20 peak hp more due to lower friction, all the choices work, but you should know that the roller tip rockers are basically wasted money as the amount of friction effort the roller tips gain is totally insignificant. the differance between the stamped steel and roller rockers is about $100, thats not a bad deal even if you only got 10 hp from the lower friction if your on a tight budget get the stamped steel and upgrade later

a few other places http://www.gofastzone.com/techtips/sparkplugs/sparkplugs.htm http://www.acdelco.com/html/pi_plugs_ident.htm http://www.autolite.com/framer.cgi?page=http://www.autolite.com/products/racing.htm http://members.uia.net/pkelley2/sparkplugreading.html http://www.atlanticjetsports.com/_techtalk/00000005.htm http://www.strappe.com/plugs.html http://www.babcox.com/editorial/cm/cm59910.htm http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/techinfo/spark_plugs/partnumberkey.pdf http://www.nightrider.com/biketech/spkplghnbook.htm http://www.tsrsoftware.com/sparkplug.htm http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/engine/plugs.html http://www.dansmc.com/sparkplugs1.htm http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/techinfo/spark_plugs/overviewp2.asp http://www.pajjakid.com/ubipa/sparkplugs.htm http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive/sparkplugs.html http://www.bullittarchive.com/Maintenance/Sparkplugoverview/ http://www.powerarc.com/sparkplug.htm http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/64378/ http://www.wakularacing.com/TechnicalInfo.htm http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Flats/3877/spark.html

the guys covered that before I saw you posted this, just a couple things to add oil flow, not coolant does the first heat transfer from the critical bearings,rings,rockers,springs,ETC. oil flow must remain constant and under enought pressure to always provide a film between the moving metal parts, a high capacity oil pan in the 7qt-9qt range and windage control system for the oil helps a great deal with engine cooling. I have repeatedly said that your oil temp should keep above 215° to allow moisture to burnout of the oil and that your coolant temp should stay in the 180-220 range SMOKEY YUNICK, in several places in several books, refers to extensive dyno testing he did for General Motors, where they consistently found, that both engine wear and hp production benefited when the oil temp stayed above 215° but below 240°, and the coolant temperature stayed between 180 and 220, degrees, or as SMOKEY said, trying keep your oil hot, but your coolant, about 20 to 30° lower in temperature but the coolant should never be below 180°, and should not exceed 220°, while temperature should never below the below 215°, and 235 to 240 is about ideal, mineral base oils tend to start breaking down over 240°, synthetic oils can easily handle temperatures up in the 270 degree range in for extended periods, but they performed best in their lubrication in cleaning function went down in the 240 range I normally buy oil pans from these guys as they are good quality for the money http://www.parts123.com/PartFrame.asp?ZTM=cadefjgb&GHOME=www.midwestmotorsportsinc.com&TITLE=Midwest_Motorsport i don,t usually have alot of money to waste so I normally buy this #KEV 1090 oil pan for $100 and weld a sump extension forward with this kit they sell for $26 # MWM 15900 and add a windage screen #MIL 32250 for $80,so for about $220-$245 you can have a baffled 9.5 qt oil pan with windage screen http://www.moroso.com/catalog/categorydisplay.asp?catcode=11330 while I tend to build or modify my personal oil pans MOROSO has a good product, in several versions, which I can recommend if your buying one! you will need to carefully measure clearances for the cross member,suspension,headers,starter,oil filter, ground clearance, ETC. before ordering , or modifying an oil pan restricting coolant flow speeds to help cooling is a MYTH,started when guys found that removing the thermostat could cause overheating on some cars, the thermostat did not restrict the flow significantly but it did tend to prevent the waterpump from cavitateing and failing to efficiently move coolant. large tube aluminum radiators tend to cool very effectively mounting an electric push fan infront of your radiator can significantly help lower temps water wetter additive can disolve some types of paper thermostat gaskets a 17lb radiator cap is about as high a pressure rating as you can use on a standard cooling system air flowing over the outter surface of a road racing style, 8qt or larger extended sump oil pan removes a good amount of heat from the engine, tall valve covers can also act to radiate heat from the oil running over the inner surfaces header coatings can also help reduce under hood temps naca ducts or side vents that allow efficient removal of air flow behind the radiator can help cooling A lower rated 160f thermostat will not make the car run cooler. It only allows the coolant to begin circulating at a lower temperature thru the block and radiator. The main controlling factor in engine temperature is radiator size/effeciency/ coolant volume and flow rates and your ability to move massive amounts of air thru the heat exchanger (radiator). That is the most important single process in how the engine gets rid of excess heat YES YOU SHOULD RUN A THERMOSTAT, about 180F-190F prefered on most high performance cars FACTORS THAT IMPEDE COOLING EFFICIENCY 1 - Coolant does not pass through radiator freely. Over time, chemical reactions can cause corrosion buildup in the radiator tubes and can restrict the flow of coolant through the radiator. Also, debris can accumulate at the tube openings (similar to a strainer) and the resulting blockage can restrict flow. The result is that the heat is not transferred from the coolant to the fins and overheating will likely occur. 2 - Air flow is restricted through the radiator and heat cannot be dispersed into the air. If trash or bugs clog the fins on the radiator, then the air flow cannot pass over the fins and the heat is not dispersed into the air. The buildup of heat can cause overheating. 3 - Deterioration. Over time, the metal fins oxidize and deteriorate. Road salt and salty air from coastal areas contribute to speeding up the oxidation process of radiator fins. http://www.jcwhitney.com/productnoitem.jhtml?CATID=5131&BQ=jcw2 RADIATOR CORROSION INHIBITOR Prevents overheated radiators caused by rust, scale and corrosion. Save money on needless flushing, repairs, anti-freeze changes, special additives! Zinc anode slips in radiator filler neck and neutralizes rust/corrosion-causing chemicals. Lasts for years. NOTE: Not for radiators with plastic tanks. http://www.pjhbrands.com/vht/coppergasketcement.htm http://www.radcapproducts.com/order.html" http://www.radcapproducts.com/order.html if you don,t read the links youll miss most of the info! http://www.radiatorbarn.com/ http://www.streetrodstuff.com/Products/157/ http://www.streetrodstuff.com/Articles/Cooling/More_Cooling_Suggestions/ http://www.streetrodstuff.com/Articles/Cooling/Cooling_Suggestions/ http://www.prenhall.com/autoweb/chekchart/classch5.pdf

don,t forget that the exhaust mixed with water vapor forms a very mild acid, aluminum gets eaten fairly fast in an acid enviorment, iron and stailess steel are effected far slower

http://www.flatlanderracing.com/flyflexgmsb.html look carefully youll notice the flywheel hub changed in about 1986 so pre-1986 flywheels differ from 1986 and newer designs keep in mind that aproximately when they changed from two piece rear seals to one piece and the crank flange went from 3.58" to 3" one piece rear seal 350 flywheels should interchange but I would get the assembly ballanced ANYTIME a NEW flywheel FROM ANY SOURCE was installed

TFS-30400002 these heads (even if they add a few dollars to the total cost) the better springs are worth the cost http://store.summitracing.com/default.asp?target=search.asp&type=bykeyword&searchtype=both&part=trickflow+heads&x=19&y=7 youll need to tell me the cars gearing,weight,trans, stall, speed,headers size, (do you need to pass emission testing?) (are you going to use nitrous?)ETC, before a cam can be picked correctly Here are a couple of links for SBC ( and others ) Head Data, notice the trickflow 23 deg heads, compared to the edelbrock performer and vette heads http://users.erols.com/srweiss/tablehdc.htm http://www.purplesagetradingpost.com/sumner/techinfo/heads1.html

of the three choices the trickflow heads offer the best potential Trick Flow alum. headed engine " I could have the Edelbrock Performer RPM cam and" DON,T! thats 30 year old cam lobe design tech. theres better cams available