defrag010

be careful how much nitrous you use, because you could end up overspinning the turbo if the shot is too large.

Just a fyi.. the unleaded gas you buy at the pump right now is already a 10% ethanol blend.

thanks.. I know that the n/a dished pistons have larger rings, but could the turbo dished pistons have a larger distance between the crown and first ringland?

almost 100 views, and no one knows?

I haven't found many answers on my questions on here either, but I will take a stab at yours. The resolutions you're describing (less cam lift, thicker hg, etc) are remedies for piston to valve clearance. If you are having valve to cylinder wall clearance issues, the only way you can realistically cure it is to run a bigger bore. It's not causing a physical problem, though.. rather it just causes bad valve shrouding. If your valve guides are bloose enough, you can have a valve contact the wall.. but as long as your valves are good, you shouldn't worry about any physical contact since the valves in a L series aren't canted.

I would if I didn't have this jeep stuff to get for free. This is an extremely limited budget fixer upper for now. I'm going to have to mount the crank sensor from the jeep onto the zx pulley, and other than that it should work great.

I am doing a rebuild on my '80 280zx, and it has a dished piston L28E in it now. I have a P90 head for it, and I was going to order some new turbo pistons for it.. except everything I find says the turbo pistons will yield the same compression as the n/a dished pistons. Are the turbo pistons more rigid with wider ringland separation, or are these two pistons essentially the same thing? They will yield the same exact compression, so if I re-use the stock n/a dish pistons, how much power can I expect the motor to handle vs. getting new std. bore turbo pistons?

e85 is denser than gas, so that is why the stoich for e85 is 9:1 and thus needing larger injectors. As long as you have a lambda sensor (not oxygen), you will be alright.

I bought my 1980 280zx with a blown headgasket, and it came with a freshly rebuilt P90 head to put on. It's not running yet, but I had originally planned on putting the P90 on. However, this car is going to stay n/a and is basically going to be a daily driver which won't recieve very many mods. Should I sell the P90 head and use the N47? If so, how much do you think I could get for the P90? It's fresh out of the machine shop, and has upgraded outer valvesprings on it but doesn't have a cam.

I've thought it over alot, and my reasons are: -speed density with the Jeep ECU -cleaner O-ring style fuel rail, and ability to upgrade/change injectors easily -it's all FREE from the parts jeep out behind the shop If I were to restore the ZX back to stock under the hood, I would have to buy: -new harness -new maf sensor and air intake hoses -new fuel rail -new injectors or have the stock ones cleaned and balanced I wasn't kidding when I said the engine bay was a mess.. lol. Everything is either missing, broken, or corroded. It would cost alot of money to get everything back to stock, and it won't cost me a cent to do the jeep ecu/injection. I'm no newb to ecu's and wiring.. I helped a friend in OKC put a DSM ecu onto his turbo KA24 S13

Long story short.. I've been lurking here for quite a long time. I recently bought a '79 280ZX automatic that I am going to fix up as a new daily driver. The car is clean, and only needs a new paintjob and some interior re-upholstery. However, the engine bay was a mess when I got it. Wires spliced everywhere, vacuum hoses ripped, everything dry-rotted or broken. The car had an overheating problem, and the seller thought it was a cracked head so the car came with a brand new rebuilt head that I am going to put on it. The funny thing, though, is that when I took the clutch fan off it had no resistance to turn. Instead of trying to fix everything, I want to start clean. I don't want to go standalone, though, because this is just going to be a daily driver and I want to retain a/c and cruise. I am going to get the engine harness, ECU, and fuel rail from a 4.0 jeep and take the nissan engine harness out. The good thing aobut the Jeep ECU and engine harness is that they come in the engine bay in the jeeps, so I can put this one in my engine bay and not have to worry about crawling under the dash. The Jeep fuel rail has the same injector spacing as the L28 fuel rail, and I can tap a return line in the rail and make brackets so as to use on the L28 return fuel system. There is a jeep 4.0 cherokee parts car here at work, so I can just go and rip all the stuff I need off of it. I will be able to run speed density to free up alot of room/headache, and I will also be able to easily find the right size injectors I need. So, onto my questions. -Will the stock cruise control work without the stock ECU and stock engine wiring harness? Is the engine wiring harness even separate from the body harness? -Is there a distributor that uses mechanical advance VS. the stock L28 vacuum advance that will fit onto the L28? I'd like to use the jeep ECU to control the timing advance, but there isn't any way I can use the jeep dizzy on the L28.