defrag010

hmm, I was just wondering because I was given some VG30DE n/a heads for free, and I was going to rebuild them and sell them.

so look what I brought home today..

yeah, they work.. the Z32 dohc lifters are the same hydraulic bucket type as all of the mazdas. You can take the actual lifter part out of the bucket and throw it around. The only thing that throwing them around does is un-stick them.. once they are un-stuck, you should soak them some more to make sure they don't stick again the next time they are pressed down. This works on all hydraulic lifters.

hey, I have that same orange hammer too!

I am about to buy a set of VG30 heads, and was wondering if there is any difference in the n/a VG30DE heads and the TT VG30DETT heads ?

soak them in WD40 for a few days, and then throw them at the ground as hard as you can. That's what I have to do at work whenever I have lifters collapse.

yeah.. this whole 280ZX project is more or less just a replacement daily driver project that will have a little kick. I have a 1991 rx7 that is getting a VH45DE and I'm going to use that for my all out powerhouse fun car. I've been wondering if the engine I have is any different internally than a syty 4.3. I know the syty heads are older because they upgrade to vortec heads. I was thinking about buying a set of syty turbo exhaust manifolds because they will bolt on.

Jesus!!!!! almost makes me want to throw the IHI RHC6 turbo I bought for the L28 in that dead space in front of the motor! PS, I got the local 4.3/4l60 pullout here local for 550$, so I will take pictures and document the way I install this motor.

John, your posts were mainly what I found whenever I searched this motor swap. That looks like a Sweet install!! I had no idea that there would be that much room up front with the motor mounted back.

The project is scrapped because my L28 block turned out to be cracked, so this whole thing will be going nowhere.

I had everything set out and planned for a nice little mild 200-ish hp L28 turbo motor with rebuilt 4n71B auto tranny in my 1980 280ZX.... until I magged my block today and found a bigass crack right down the middle of it. This will put me way over budget finding a new block, and frankly I don't want to hunt down a new L28 block local or have to deal with shipping and start over again. I got offered a 1995 low mileage vortec CPI 4.3L / 4L60E pullout complete with wiring harness, ecu, radiator, and basically anything I need from the donor for 500$. I'm selling my freshly rebuilt P90 with zero miles, std/std L28 crank, and a few other misc. things so that I can recoup some of the cost of this 4.3 pullout and still come out ahead. My questions is this: I've been researching for days about this swap on here. I couldn't really find a definite answer on mounting. Everyone says that the JTR mount kit will work, but it sits the motor 4-5" too far forward, others say it will sit the motor back where it should. I read that someone said the 280ZX firewall is closer to the front of the car than in a Z, so that means the 4.3 would sit back farther.. but that doesn't make sense because the firewall would go through the back of the stock L28. Instead of hassling with what might work, I figured I would go ahead and buy a Universal SBC engine crossmember (from s ummitracing), and just mount the engine where I want to. Is there anything else I need to get/do to complete this swap? I heard someone say I need the Astro van oil pan. Is that true? I do not want to read a bunch of replies asking me why I'm going 4.3, and telling me that a SBC would be better because I'm just working with what I have and on a super budget.

I wish he would be more clear on the VH45 mods.. they come stock with hypereutectic pistons.

Darrel, so does your 4n71B bolt to the stock L28 bellhousing? Can you get a picture of the front pump side of the transmission? What is the difference between the maxima L24 bellhousing and the stock L28 bellhousing?

okay, now that all of the posts from people telling me the trans sucks are gone, I guess I'm going to have to find this one out for myself, eh ??

The amount of lift on a cam is proportional to the valve size. The number you need to find out for max lift on a certain valve size is the curtain area. Larger valves have a larger curtain area, and DOHC 4v heads have too small of a valve to have a large curtain area by themselves, which is why there are 2 intake and 2 exhaust valves. Curtain Area = Lift * PI * ((Valve Diameter)-((Seat Width)*2*COSINE(SeatAngle))) I don't remember what the forumla for the curtain area on a head with siamese valves (like 2 intake valves on a 4V head), but I can look at my notes later and get it. *edit* nevermind, just read this site http://www.araoengineering.com/4vs2.htm

thanks!

going off on a tangent, does the stock 280ZX a/c system use the ECU to control it in any way? Say, for example I take my stock ECU out in lieu of a megasquirt.. if all of my stock a/c components are still there, will the a/c still cycle right?

Bowtiez, did you make it out to hallett? I was there yesterday, and saw a few sweet Z's.

It most certainly does. Volumetric efficiency is a ratio of the engine's airflow to the engine's displacement and rpm. The more air the engine flows, the better the VE. Adding boost (positive manifold pressure) increases airflow to the engine, thus yilelding a higher VE. The formula is VE= 3456 x cfm / displacement x rpm

The 4.2L Jaguar DOHC I-6 sitting in my garage has your name all over it. I searched, and didn't find a single thing about anyone putting one into a Z.

I think where you're getting the bad numbers is in the VE. Under boost, your VE is way above 100%

I would try to swap the bellhousings if I had a 4n71B tranny to try it on. I haven't found a tranny yet.

okay!!! thanks for telling me the trannys are weak! I know! If I was going for something with strength and wanted to spend a bunch of money, I would put a built 200R4 in or something. I'm not. I've been to the keas site, and have been reading about the 4n71B for a few weeks now. This is a daily driver car that will only be making 200-250 horsepower. I am not worried at all about what power level the tranny will take, or what power level I will be making because I do not abuse it nor expect it to be a race car. I only want the easiest way to get a 4th gear because I drive on the hiway alot. Original question: Will the stock L28-->3n71B bellhousing bolt onto a 4n71B ??

Thanks.. that's the same info I've found so far. The 4n71B I'm looking for isn't out of a maxima, rather a RX-7 because RX-7 enthusiasts will literally give them away. I'm doing a stock rebuild on it and doing the valve body mods that someone (forgot who) posted on this site. I'm not worried about the power level at all, and I didn't even mention power level in my question. I'm just wondering if I can use my stock L28E to 3n71B bellhousing to attatch my L28 to a 4n71B.

I've been reading forever about doing the L4n71B swap in lieu of the L3n71B. I got my 3n71B out of the car, and I was wondering why we have to use the maxima bellhousing? Why won't the standard Z bellhousing work. It makes sense to me based on the fact that since the same series transmissions share components (like the shift improver kit for the 3n71 and the 4n71 are the same, as well as the re4r01 and re4r03, etc), they would have the same mounting dimensions. I could be wrong, though, but what is preventing the 4n71B from mounting up to the stock L28 auto bellhousing? Also, lastly, I'm going to be boosting the motor. Will I need to get a new regulator that is made for positive pressure (boost)? Where can I get one from?