nullbound
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Posts posted by nullbound
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Bump...
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Using a scotch pad would be tough because of the louvers, I don't want to break one of those. Maybe I can take it apart. Soda blasting would probably work if I knew someone that had one.
Bumper stripper? A Google search came up with SEM 77713. I'll see if I can find some.
Ernie has a blast cabinet. Not sure what kind of media he has, though.
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Also, meant to post my cam details in a previous response. Here's a screen capture of the cam specs:
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Here's some pics of the por-15'd floors (yes, i know i missed a spot):
My 200-4r transmission has been rebuilt with a full manual valve body, which I could only find with a reverse shift pattern. TCI seems to be the only company that makes the proper reverse-pattern gate plate for an aftermarket shifter, but that works out well since they also made the valve body. I wasn't sure if the TCI gate plate would work with the B&M pro stick shifter I planned to use in this car, but suspected they were close to being the same. I bought a TCI thunder stick from Summit Racing to be sure that I could use this gate plate. Upon comparing shifters and gate plates, I found that they're exactly the same. I'll pick up another gate plate later for my silver 240, which has a b&m pro stick shifter.
The gate plate went on the new tci thunder stick shifter with ease.
I had this B&M quick release plate from the previous owner (installed with ARP bolts).
And mounted the TCI shifter to it with no problems.
Today I spent some time cleaning up the wiring a bit in the engine compartment. The previous owner had a few relays and a small painless wiring kit on the firewall that I'll be moving. The fan relay will be kept in the engine compartment, but the rest will be moved inside the car under the dash. I started wrapping the wiring harness on the passenger side frame rail with a heat shield wrap since the passenger side header is extremely close to that frame rail.
The crossmember and framerails look strange in the pic above, but they were painted when the car was with the paint/body man. They just need to be cleaned with soapy water (messy from wet-sanding).
Once I get everything tidied up with the wiring, I'll cover it all with Russell's "Wrap-It" for a clean look.
More next weekend... Got company in town from Hawaii.
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Cool... did you have to do anything special to get it running?
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Thats a Fairlady grill?
Interesting. Are you sure thats not just an aftermarket piece?
Yeah, in that pic it's sitting on the nissan box it came in. I have one on my silver 240.
Didnt MSA sell these years back (4 or so)? I dont remember if they were nissan parts or reproductions. They were still really expensive, good luck.
Thanks. I spoke to someone from MSA today and they haven't been able to get them for about 4 years. I used to buy them from Nissan Motorsports for about $120, but that was about 10 years ago.
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I'm looking to buy a fairlady grill for a 240z like this one:
Please let me know if you have one for sale.
Thanks,
Ryan
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ha... i like it.
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I coated the floors on the top and bottom with por-15 this past weekend. Talk about a messy job, especially with the car on jack stands to get the bottom side. I ended up with a good bit on my hands and clothes.
No pics this week, though. The floors just look darker than in the above pics anwyay.
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I prefer the autotune version:
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Maybe some of those voters were once members but got the boot for whatever reason (like not updating their locations)?
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Here's the progress made in the previous few weekends:
Got the Zedd findings floors and Bad Dog framerails and subframe connectors installed by a local guy that has replaced floors in quite a few cars. The installer coated them with bedliner, but was running low. I need to go back over them since he missed several spots or only covered very lightly. I might use por15, but still considering alternatives since por15 is not lung-friendly.
Weld Wheels are sold, so yesterday I installed my 16x8 sportmaxx wheels that used to be on my 280. The car is a bit jeep-like without the drivetrain.
The engine is all back together (lifters, pushrods, roller rockers, and intake). Everything inside was clean and the comp lifters still looked brand new.
The intake is a little ugly. That intake was on my silver car when I had to park it outside for a few months. Doesn't take long for aluminum to look like this when exposed to the elements.
Valve covers installed with arp studs and rebuilt 3310 sitting on top:
I have another set of comp covers, but these will work for now.
Powdercoated (by mike at thepowdercoater.com) JTR kit installed on the passenger side with motor mount:
Same deal on the driver's side:
I was hoping to start on the wiring today, but it was just too freakin' hot, even in the garage.
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This is the setup I came up with and sold a handful of brackets. (Don't have any left)
D'oh.... I was about to pm you about that very bracket.
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I get motor trend and saw the source article that the autoblog link is referring to:
I haven't seen anything else on this, though.
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Very cool...
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Sent the '78 280 down the road a few months back. The new owner hasn't decided if it will be a drag car or a street car.
I still have a lot to do to get it ready for paint, but it will have to wait.
Sorry, ole blue, but you're going to have to hang out outside for a bit while I finish the 260z and start on Monguuz.
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So a friend of mine suggested the car go in for an acid bath. Have you ever thought about that or spoke with someone who's had experience with that? Just wondering if it's worth it. I think if I cut out the floor pans, that might be all I need to do.
I haven't thought of doing that with any of mine so far...
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As if I didn't have enough projects already for the next decade, I purchased Tim240z's '73 240z from mark here and plan to get her back on the street. She got delivered today and still looks great! Here's how she sits in my garage:
I've already sourced an engine and transmission. Tim240z had an lt1 backed by a t56 in it when he originally did this car. I'm going to also install an lt1, but will use an overdrive transmission (4l60e). I'll take delivery on that in a few weeks (thanks deja).
The car needs brakes and the rear suspension will need to be redone. There are mms coilovers on the front. It originally had wilwoods on the front, but the calipers were taken for another project. Tim had an r230 setup in the back that got sold sometime before he decided to sell the body. It has strut assemblies (not sure if 240 or 280 at the moment, but no coilovers) with unknown springs and no brakes hooked up. I'll put coilovers in the back to match the front. I'm not sure what rear brakes I'll do. I have an r200 lsd that I had intended for my silver 240 that will go in this car, along with z31 turbo cv's.
Here's the site Tim240z had put together when he did the car: Tim240Z's Monguuz Build
He did a lot of great work to this car.
This is essentially placeholder for now. I have a lot of plans, but need to finish up my 260z before I really start this one.
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I got mine from a friend that brought them back from Tokyo several years ago. I sent you a PM.
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Seriously thought you were talking late 80's cars here.
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The last scarab kit I bought was for $100 from a guy locally. That included the engine mounts and the transmission mount. I later sold that kit for the same price when I changed my 240 to the JTR mounts. My 260 also is being changed from scarab to JTR. I sold just the motor mounts for $50. I'm not saying it's worth more or less, that's just the prices that I paid/sold.
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I saw your picasa album. Looks good enough for me. I think I have less rust than yours, but I haven't really taken the guts out of the car yet. I know my floor pans are really bad, but the rest of the car seems pretty decent.
One question: That electric hand tool you're using to sand down the paint to the metal is called what? Is that what I need to do the same to my Z to get all the paint off and look for rust and other trouble spots?
I've got a dewalt grinder and a dremel with various brushes and cut-off wheels. It really depends on where you're looking for rust, though. For my floor pans, all I used was a magnet (to verify floor, bondo, or fiberglass), a flathead screwdriver, and a small scraper (for removing the jute pad and the sound deadening layer). The dremel seemed to be the most useful for me on this car.
My painter used a variety of air tools (needler, cutoff wheels, etc) for removing the rusty metal that he replaced.
rt260, BMW M Powered
in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z
Posted
Beautiful... So when will this radiator/fan combo be available for purchase