nullbound
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Posts posted by nullbound
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I should have been clear from the start. I made an edit to my original response for others who may read this thread.
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He mentioned the 5 lug AZ brake kit, though, which pushes the the wheel mounting surface out around 3/4" on all corners. The links I posted were specific to another user with the same kit.
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There are a few people with that same AZ Z 5-lug kit that have ran 17x9 with 35mm offset on the rear. I saved this thread a while back when considering 17" wheels for a 240:
http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/71868-arzs-build-thread-1971-240z-7mgte-487-rwhp/
He mentions these sizes for his wheels in that thread:
5 Zigen 17x9 x35mm offset for the rear and 17x8 x 25mm(or 15mm I cant remember) for the front.In another thread he recommended 35mm for the fronts instead, but I can't seem to find that off hand.
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Awesome, sending an email now. Thanks!
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I'm looking to buy a set of S30 door lock pull rods. I don't need the whole lock mechanism inside the doors, just the metal rod with threads that the plastic lock pull attaches to at the top of the doors.
The top rod that the lock pull (#10) attaches to in this pic:
Thanks,
Ryan
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Prothane sells the brackets with the bushings... not sure if they sell the brackets separately:
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Good a place to start as any
True.
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You gonna build a car around that header?
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Great work! I love the wiring diagram. That's looks really well done.
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I'm not having any luck finding mine, but that's probably because I'm looking for them. I'll ask Paul this weekend if he has any.
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They're definitely 14mm heads.
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Hey Ryan
. Yeah I saw those. That's a crazy price for 4 bolts. I am switching half shafts from my 280zx to Wolf Creeks. I sold all the old 280Z u-joint parts but scored the diff half stubs and the companion flanges but I don't have the bolts for the companion flanges, I need 8 bolts, nuts and lock washers. I just ordered some bolts that will work but they are not shoulder bolts. It would be nice to have the right stuff but I'm not paying $100 for 8 bolts!!!!
I may be able to round up a complete set that you can have. How quickly do you need them?
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Looks like a great starting point, especially with that shop! Good luck!
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The RT mount isn't just for v8 applications. It can be used as a replacement for the factory strap. Read here and note the urethane "stop".
http://www.technoversions.com/DiffMountHome.html
And here's someone commenting on it being better than the factory strap:
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I don't suppose there's any cure for this affliction, is there?
RPMS, you know deep down what you must do (no, not cause an accident...).
Hahaha, why anyone would spend $18k to do this to a Z and produce 230ish RWHP boggles the mind
especially when with that kind of money Dave Rebello could build you a 3.2 that would trounce it (or you could take your pick of V8 conversions). Oh well, to each their own, after all, on HybridZ there is no "best way" I've seen this car in person and really liked it. The swap was done very well and the power is respectable for a street-driven Z. Bringing up what other things he could have done is pointless.
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Not an LS car, but I daily drove my V8 240z for several years. I also had many people stop me to complement it, including some people that said my Opel GT was just like the one they used to have.
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I don't have pics of mine since it was 11 years ago, but here's one that broke in relatively the same spot as mine (mine was cleaner & not as rusty): http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/help-me/49079-rear-suspension-bar-broken.html#post427575
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If the front diff mount is weak, then the diff can really twist the bar hard. I had a friend with an R180 (weaker mustache bar) and the U-joints from the driveshaft hit the ebrake linkage and trans tunnel. That's a lot of twist. The bars are spring steel, but they aren't indestructable. I suspect that most of the time that has a lot to do with the the front mount not doing its job.
I've broken a stock mustache bar with a stock L6 in a 280z. The reason in my case was exactly as JMortensen mentions. The front mount on my diff was toast. I had been dealing with the clunking for a few days with plans to replace the mount that weekend, but didn't make it to the weekend before the bar broke. Luckily it broke right in front of my house as I was leaving to go to work.
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I would try another stock bar before upgrading, but here's an upgrade option:
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Wow, really cool. Subscribed!
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They are recommended dry, but I've heard of them leaking when installed dry if the machined surfaces aren't exactly right. The quick fix in those cases is using a new cometic gasket with copper spray.
I know of plenty of builds where a light coat was used on new gaskets with no issues. Certainly seems like added insurance.
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Glad to see you're back at it
especially when with that kind of money Dave Rebello could build you a 3.2 that would trounce it (or you could take your pick of V8 conversions). Oh well, to each their own, after all, on HybridZ there is no "best way" 
stainless steel brake lines for toyota s12w front and 86-87 maxima rear caliper swap
in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis
Posted
Silver Mine sells them separately: http://www.silverminemotors.com/datsun/datsun-240z/brake-kit-individual-parts/steel-braided-lines