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nullbound

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Posts posted by nullbound

  1. i know what you mean mike. i have been wearing glasses with a very mild prescription for the past 6 years. one eye is worse than the other and, even though i hate wearing glasses, i have endured. now i cant stand it any more. it's time for me to go to the eye doctor again to get a new prescrition. i really think i will be saving in the long run by getting lasik surgery.

     

    i've been seriously thinking about it. however, the extent of my search has been seeing the ads in the sunday paper for the assembly line shops that do it for $499 (per eye, i think) or the emory vision care center in atlanta that does it for like $4000 (i think, hopefully, this is for both eyes). my question is this: what's the best way to go about finding out who is good at this?

     

    i have talked to people who say the $499 places are fine and others who have gone to the $499 places to get it done, but ended up having to go to emory to repair the damage they caused. i just dont want to make anything worse.

     

    thanks, in advace, for any replies to my question.

  2. hey guys,

     

    paul appreciates the complements :D:D

     

    owen, i'll try to get some shots of the headers when i get back from my business trip to memphis. the headers are s&s 1 3/4 full length headers, the same as msa sells. they are within a 1/4 of an inch of the steering arm. when they were coated, paul had the shop cut the collectors off and weld on turn downs. the new turndowns basically dump the exhaust right behind the front wheels.... very very loudly, hehe.

     

    he used the same headers on his '72 car and found that they basically dump right into the firewall as they come from s&s. this set was a little different than the set on his '72, though. on his '72 he had dual 3" exhaust, but the exhaust shop had to do some weird angling to get from the header to the straight pipe. if the primaries came down about 2 more inches, they would be perfect for the scarab kit. i understand that they may be a little too low for the jtr kit, though. i plan on using s&s when i convert my '73 to jtr, so i'm a little curious about ground clearance.

     

    mike kz, you're invited any time... when i get back from memphis, that is. paul and i are looking forward to seeing your car in person. paul got a narrowed 12 bolt for the drag car and wants to see yours to see what's involved in that swap.

     

    jt1, the vic jr's are straight out of the box. a friend wanted to port them, but we thought they would be fine as is. paul's already planning another 377 build, using the 64cc vic jr's.

     

    thanks again,

  3. hey guys,

     

    my friend paul finished the build up of his latest motor for his 240 drag car.

     

    pics of the engine and car: http://www.imagestation.com/album/?id=4291962855

     

    the first 20 pics are of the 377 that's currently in my car after it was initially built for the drag car. pic 21 starts the new engine pics.

     

    here's the details of the engine:

     

    400 2 bolt main, 0.030 overbore

    stock crank, 400 rods w/ arp bolts,

    keith black silvolite hyp. flat top pistons 0 dish,

    arp main studs,clevite 77 h-series bearings,

    cloyes hex-a-just timings set

     

    edelbrock victor jr heads, 70 cc chambers with 2.08/1.60 s.s. valves

     

    comp cams solid extreme energy roller cam:

    248@.050, .576 lift intake,

    254@.050, .582 lift exhaust,

    110 lsa

     

    comp cams lifters, push rods, springs, retainers, 10 degree locks, and pro-magnum 1.5 ratio rockers

     

    weiand team g manifold #7530

     

    holley 750 cfm 4779 carb with proform center section, 73 jets front, 83 jets rear

     

    msd hei billet distributor with moroso blue max race wires,

    moroso air cleaner assembly with 4" x 14" k&n air cleaner

     

    s&s headers, 1 3/4" primaries and 3" angled cutoff collector

     

    moroso 6 qt oil pan, pro-race balancer, cat 153 tooth flexplate & summit balance plate,

    tci gear reduction starter, wieand team g aluminum long water pump, march underdrive pulleys,

     

    erson aluminum intake cover, erson sand cast aluminum valve covers

     

    arp ss acc. bolt kit: 12 point with matching 12 point ss head bolts

     

    c/r: 10.7

    fuel: 110

    hp est: 500 - 525

    torque est: 440 - 460

    total timing: 34 degrees

     

    turbo 350 tranny, r200 3.90 diff (soon to be replaced by powerglide tranny and narrowed 12-bolt gm rear with 4.11 gears)

     

    of 4 runs at 1/8th mile track in eatonton, ga on sunday, july 22:

    first and worst: 7.15 seconds at 100 mph

    best and last: 6.85 seconds at 102 mph

    --> lots of wheelspin on all 4 runs; would have run more, but it was just too hot out there....

     

    best 60' time: 1.55 seconds

     

    best 60' time on 377 was 1.44 seconds, so there is still room for improvement.

     

    i am curious what desktop dyno says about hp and torque. if anyone could run the numbers, it would be greatly appreciated.

     

    thanks :D

  4. i havent seen that blue one before, but it does indeed look like someone put a lot of time and money into it.

     

    there have been quite a few discussions on this board about 2jz's and rb26dett's into early Z's. the first recommendation would be to use the search page to find which swap you are interested in. the yellow Z that was on ebay twice(?) with the 2jz was discussed, too.

     

    a good place to start with the rb26 info is stony's (now called rb26z) site: 260Z with rb26dett he's got good numbers to show what a mostly stock rb26 with an intercooler can do in a Z. happy reading :D

  5. yeah, i grew up on legos. i gave mine away a long time ago, but i wish i hadnt. there's an endless source of lego goodies available online that will knock your socks off. for instance: http://www.thereverend.com/brick_testament/ is really good. there are LEGO CAD programs available that allow you to build and document just about anything you would possibly want to build. there's a site that has EVERY lego instruction manual ever to come with a lego set. and there's even a lego porn site... some people have too much time on their hands, but i dont seem to have enough of it.

  6. if you do have klez on your computer, it will not allow you to run norton, nor will it allow you to install a fresh copy of norton. if you have zonealarm, look for something like winq

     

    like jasonfen said, use the removal tool if you are having problems getting antivirus software running/installed. the klez removal tool is here: http://securityresponse.symantec.com/avcenter/venc/data/w32.klez.removal.tool.html

     

    it is best to use the tool in safe mode. check the instructions for particulars with your operating system. once you get norton running, be sure to configure auto update so that you can maintain the most current virus definitions. i've seen klez do some funny things, so good luck.

  7. i really like that kit... and this is just a heads up, but be very careful ordering anything from jcr. they dont get as many orders for the z stuff these days and have most of their focus on 'sebring tuning'. i had major problems when i ordered a fiberglass hood from them back in august. the quality was really really poor. i didnt even take it all the way out of the box. i just called and tried to return it. every time i called about my refund, they either hung up on me, told me someone would call me back (which was very rare), or told me that the person i asked for wasnt there (even though she was the one who answered the phone when i was hung up on).

     

    talk about a major hassle... i called them once or twice a week, at least, from the moment i received the hood until i got my refund. and i didnt get my refund until january. they even admitted over the phone that they were having a problem with the company who was making fiberglass parts for them.

     

    you may want to ask when/if you order it about returns. also check to see if they have the kit in stock or if it will have to be made. if it has to be made, i would worry. whoever made the hood for them did a really bad job. i'm not saying that this happens with every order, or that it will happen with ordering the kit from them. it's just a heads up on what happened when i tried to order something that was supposed to be high quality.

     

    good luck with whatever you decide.

  8. well, if you truly are planning on "Bulding the baddest Z ever made", it will take making 75g's per year to do it with a turbo L28 and t4. the returns would be a lot better for you if you went the route that your screen name implies. utvolman is right in that you will be giving up a lot of reliability. it can be done, dont get me wrong, but it will cost you. if you're going to do the 3" with a flowmaster, buy the one like mine where the inlet and outlet are on the same side of the muffler. your exhaust man will thank you for it and your muffler will tuck in the stock location nicely.

     

    anywho, my '76 280 with the inliner had an msa header and 2.5" mandrel bent exhaust with a 2-chamber flowmaster. i know exactly what you mean about the head-snapping effects, perry. it was quite fun setting off all the car alarms on parking decks in college just by starting my car. people used to ask me if that car had a v-8. now that i do have a v8 car, people tell me they know when i'm pulling into their neighborhoods.

  9. hi pete,

     

    you may want to check out pics of my stereo install (even though the pics arent that great...), starting at pic 40 in my photo album. i used the msa 6x9 panel for the rear speakers and am really happy with the quality of the construction. it fits really well and looks nice, but the port in the middle is just for looks.

     

    for the front speakers, i bought a set of q-logic universal plates for 5.25" speakers. these do not have a mounting spot for tweeters. i tried a set with the tweeter mount, but they would not fit into the available space on the passenger side. the ones i bought were about $60 at a local stereo shop. i've seen people carve into their doors at the bottom corner, but it's not a flat surface at the metal and just never seemed like a good idea to me. the stock kick panel is much cheaper to replace than a door panel with a hole in it is.

     

    the speakers i had chosen for the front had the option of mounting the tweeters on the grills, similar to a coaxial. i could have mounted them somewhere else, but after some testing i found the imaging to be much better with them mounted in the same location as the mids. it's not in the pics, but the plan is to trim the edges off the kick panel enclosures and have the leading edge tucked behind the weather stripping.

     

    the stereo sounded really good to me in that form until i came across a really good deal on a set of 10" subs. i couldnt refuse, so i mounted them on 3/4" mdf in the spare tire well. i'm not into the bassy stuff, so the small size of the spare tire well gives good tight bass response for my kind of music. i have an orion amp under the passenger seat to give power to the subs (100 watts per sub, but the gain is way down on the amp while the bass is at the halfway mark on the cd player).

     

    for buying your equipment, i highly recommend crutchfield.com. they have a sony cd/mp3 (cdx-mp30) player right now for $250, which has a plug in for XM radio. for speakers, i highly recommend kicker. you can get kicker 6x9's for $150 and 5.25" coaxials (not the same as mine, though..) for $90. separates like mine will cost $180, though you can get a set of polk audio on clearance for $120. cruthcfield should be able to get universal pods. i've seen them at best buy before, as well.

     

    good luck with whatever you decide! 2thumbs.gif i look forward to seeing pics of your installation.

  10. check your local laws. some laws require that the exhaust remain in the same form as original. that is, the exhaust tubing can be whatever size you want, so long as it retains the same number of cats or mufflers. there are loopholes with all laws though. just be observant. they usually dont say anything to harley-owners with straight pipes.... and that's really loud.

     

    and according to the police in this area, as long as you have mufflers (or what appear to be mufflers), it doesnt matter how loud the exhaust is. in most areas, driving a car on the street with no muffler(s) is against the law. if you get caught with no muffler, you will get fined. my friends 400 sbc-powered 240 had dual 3" exhaust with 2 chamber flowmasters that would stop your heart. the police commented to him more than once that it was really loud. but, once they saw the mufflers, they said it was okay.

  11. hehe, cool!! when i got mine going, my dad was really skeptical. he thought the 6 cylinder was enough for these cars... my '76 280 is pretty quick... but it has nothing on a v8 car (except for ford mustangs.. i can hang with those guys).

     

    when i took my dad for the first ride, i tried to be the responsible driver, only getting on it a little bit going down the road. he thought it was really smooth, commenting that he originally expected that it would be making the whole car shake, etc. then i let him drive and he went balls to the wall with it, hehe... and that was with the 330 hp 350 i had. he had a similar grin as your dad... and from then on wanted to go everywhere in my car. he has yet to ride in it with the 377, though.

     

    when his car went in the shop... "can i borrow the z". yeah, i'll bring the 280 right over. "no, the OTHER z". he gives me a hard time, but he's no stranger to muscle cars. he's had several fast cars in his time (including a '62 Ford interceptor state patrol car.... very fast.. i wish he still had it). after seeing him drive my car, i can see where i inherited my lead foot from.

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