nullbound
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Posts posted by nullbound
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yes, Andrew Bayley has them on his car. there are some pics available. check out this thread: s&s install
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msa sells the s&s headers. you can also find them here , part# 5205 (pictured at the top of that page on the site). they will fit with either the jtr or hooker kits.
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thanks for the reminder on the discount. i need to order some an fittings and hoses.
and to get back off topic, yes, Alyson Hannigan has been in buffy all along. love that show... and, yes, she is much hotter than she was in the american pie movies. i think these are the pics you referred to from fhm:
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i put my two channel orion amp under the passenger seat. seemed more secure there.
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i got my 200-4r a few months ago in a similar manner: steel banded to a small pallet. it was around $75 for the shipping from a similar shipping company as listed above. i just had to be at home when they delivered it. it was sort of interesting watching the dude turn his semi around in the cul de sac at the end of my street.
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i'm using 255/60-15's on 15x8 weld rodlites with 4.5" backspacing without coilovers. i have 280 rear springs on stock 240 strut housings. a friend of mine is running 275/60-15's on 15x8 weld draglites with 3.5" backspacing. you do have to use flares with the 275 series tire. his car:
you can get about the same effect by using 240 lowering springs on 280 strut housings. you can run the 255/60 with this setup and it doesnt sit as high in the rear as my car or the car above. that was done here to my friend's drag car:
it actually settled down a little after the engine, trans, and fuel cell were put in.
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i'd say he'll be lucky to get $8K for it. i agree on the engine and interior criteria. and this car has been for sale for at least a year. i remember looking at it before and spitting out my wheaties when i saw he wanted more than $20K. the paint and body work is nice. i agree on the g-nose/flare package. they just go together.
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radical certainly can be fun. that's why i bought the new cam, hehe.
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i used a universal q-logic panel for a midrange to mount 5.25" kicker midranges and tweeters in the kickpanel area. the cool thing about the kickers i bought were that the tweeters mounted on the grilles. i hated the idea of cutting my door panels or my doors. i only had to cut the original kick panels to allow space for the magnet of my midrange. i cut the panels to the size of the section behind the panel that houses the bolts for the door hinges.
i was at a local stereo shop and they had a bin full of these that they let me look through and take to my car to test for fitment. q-logic has a website , but doesnt list the particular panel i bought. i'm sure if you contacted them, they could get them for you. i tried the ones with the tweeter mounts, but they wouldnt clear the blower motor on the passenger side. i still need to trim the q-logic panels to tuck behind the weather-stripping.
for the rear, i am using the 6x9 enclosure that msa sells. i am pleased with the results and the imaging is good.
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here's your new lt5: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1874874383
that would be really cool.. but, too pricey for me.
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hey pete, you're more than welcome for the link. competition products has a lot of good stuff for cheaper than you can get it at most other places. yeah, i usually subtract 200 from each side the rpm ranges listed in the catalogs when the cam is for a 400. that's a safe estimate. it will be interesting to hear how well it works with the tbi.
right now, my 377 has a comp cams 280AR magnum mechanical roller, part# 12-702-8, 2500-6500rpm, 236/236 @.050, 110 lsa. it pulls hard and runs SMOOTH. my engine was in my friend paul's drag car and brought consistent 6.90's at 100 mph. his best time was a 6.89 at 101 mph with a 1.48 60' time... it was open header, but on pump gas with an alternator and water pump. his car weighs about 300 pounds lighter than my car and he has a welded up 3.90 diff. the moral: it's plenty for a street car, almost more than enough.
it's all relative, though. i think you're going to have a pretty radical car in terms of motor when all is said and done. i'm not at all trying to dissuade you from your choices. traction is definitely going to be a problem for you. and it's definitely going to be a huge step up either way from your 327. and, at the same time, i cant say much to dissuade anyway since i just bought a comp cams XR280R extreme energy cam: 2500-6500, 242/248 @ 0.050, 110 LSA. it's the same rpm range as my current cam, but definitely more radical.
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that crane 114681 is a great cam, but it seems a bit much for a street car. the rpm range is listed as 3400 to 6800. in the beginning of this thread, you said you wanted something in the range of 1500 to 5500. the solid flat (236/242 @.050) cam might be more up your alley. grumpyvette's combo is an awesome combo, but i feel like it might be a bit much for what you want your car to do.
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competition products seems to have the best prices on canfields: http://www.competitionproducts.com/page11.html
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you can find some good general information here: mp3 info/definitions
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well, it did... russ240 bought it yesterday
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excellent question... i've actually been wondering the same. at one point, i was in contact with him for a fuel rail for my '76 280. i never ended up getting the rail, but he was really knowledgeable and friendly about all things Z.
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i would agree about the pro-street look
and with 18's or 20's it would look similar to the pic of the photochopped car from jeromio's site at the top of this thread. -
i just created a new album on imagestation with the pics of his setup: http://www.imagestation.com/album/?id=4290992181
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with that kind of power, i wouldnt hesitate to put a solid axle in your car. yeah, your car is beautiful, but it can be done so that your car is still streetable and has the look that everyone will still appreciate. i agree that your car is an inspiration for a lot of us, but at the same time, your goals can be met and you would definitely benefit from having more tire underneath. i probably wouldnt go the 4-link route myself. there just isnt really enough room under there without doing a lot of surgery behind the seats. i'm about to cut the spare tire well out of my car to add a fuel cell. if i decide to do the 12 bolt route down the road, i dont want to have to do too much more hacking inside my car.
that's why i like how mikekz put his 12 bolt in: mikekz 12 bolt setup he's got a really cool installation that didnt require too much hacking of his interior. for the tubs, he just cut the inner rear tire wells, moved them in about 4+inches and filled in the gaps. it's a great job and he's running 15x10's. you could do the same and run your 20x10's on the street and 15x10's with slicks at the track. i've had thoughts of doing similar as i want to run 17 or 18 x 10's on the street and have the backup 15's with slicks for the track.
i've got some pics of his car in the process. i can email them to you if you want.
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go to or call your local tag office and ask them what you can do. i bought a 1970 240Z about 5 years ago (and havent done anything to it yet, but that's another story...). i bought it with only a bill of sale. no tag receipt and no title. the previous owner never sent it to the guy i bought the car from. he had the car for about six years and never did anything with it either.
i went by the local tag office and they gave me a vin verification form. i had to call the police and have them send out an officer to match the vin on my bill of sale with the vin on the car. he filled out the form. it took about 5 minutes and 4 of them were bs-ing with the cop. that's the process here in georgia anyway. i know you cali guys get it a little rougher, but i hope it's that easy for you, too. i got a tag for it the next day and never had to crank the car.
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you can ship it via ups through mailbox etc, but they will charge you twice as much as ups. i ordered fiberglass bumpers from msa once and the quality was so poor i decided to return them upon first glance. i went through a similar ordeal with sizing. i took it to mailbox etc and they tried to charge me $110. the ups driver was there at the time and gave me the "dont do it" face. i spoke with him later outside the store and he mentioned how places like that like to put money in their pocket by charging a hefty middleman fee.
i called ups on his advice and and scheduled a pickup and shipped it for around $40. they are strict on pickups, yes, and that is based on the volume of the box moreso than the weight. you should be able to take it directly to ups, though, and send it that way. that, or try quick delivery service like aviatorx recommended.
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i have to concur on the ford aerostar with v6. major pita!!
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pete's got a nice how-to on his site with a wiring diagram: Headlight_Relay
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check with bowtie overdrives. they have a kit, the TV made EZ kit, that will allow you to use your holley carb safely with your 700r4: http://www.700r4.com/ .
Full Length Chevy V8 headers?
in Exhaust
Posted
part# 5205, from the S&S site: