nullbound

January 21, 2003

cool, good to know! thanks for that info, zfan.

January 21, 2003

cool, that's basically what i was planning to do. i was planning on operating solely on the switch using a wiring scheme just as in your diagram. where did you get your switch? i went to radio shack last weekend and they looked at me like i was crazy when asking for something more than the standard on-off switch.

January 11, 2003

just save them to your computer and open them in a new browser. as auxilary stated, they are still loaded at fullsize resolution, but the code for that webpage makes them appear smaller on the webpage. if you save them and reopen them in a browser, they will reopen in their actual size.... which is pretty big (~1200x1600 pixels).

January 10, 2003

yeah, looks good! i, too, look forward to seeing it at reynold's.

January 10, 2003

i understand the reason for wanting the compression drivers and 8's in the kick panels. i fully understand the benefits for both imaging and staging, as well as air space requirements. i've been doing systems for a while myself and have been a longtime fan of alpine and a/d/s products. i've been following car audio for sometime and have even listened to both richard clark's buick grand national and harry kimura's acura legend from speakerworks fame with the early wave guides at an IASCA event in the early 90's.

the kickpanel area itself in a 240 is basically a flat metal surface with very small cutouts to access the bolts holding the hinges for the doors. to put an 8" speaker in that area, you'll probably end up building the enclosure in the back corner of the kickpanel/firewall. i'm not saying it can't be done, but you will be sacrificing some leg room. and with the compression drivers mounted to the bottom of your dash.... i hope the magnets on the compression drivers and the midbasses you want to use are really really small. i have q-logic panels mounted to my kickpanels holding 5.25" midranges and i couldnt imagine having much more down there.

January 10, 2003

there's not really a whole lot of air space to start with in a z and i like having some

access to what's there... you'll have to make some serious build-outs in your kick panels to get 8's to fit, too.

i used two sheets of 3/4" mdf to mount 2 10's in my spare tire well. i could have done it with one sheet, but i wanted to countersink the speakers and lay the carpet over it so no one could see what's underneath. it's actually bolted to the spare tire well underneath with some small 90 degree metal brackets and i used silicone to seal it. you could do the same to mount a single 12.

January 7, 2003

ah, the bikes from tron have finally become reality. so, does it leave the streak of light behind it wherever it goes?

January 6, 2003

gotta love the atl.

January 3, 2003

serious dubs....

January 3, 2003

pete, you completely deserve those complements. i have to agree and admit that you and your car were a major factor in me choosing to go the hybrid route.

izzy, no worries on using the weld wheels. the rodlites and draglites both look good on the cars, imo. i still think the pro stars would look good for someone wanting to do the 5 lug conversion. both mike kz and a local guy named tory with a 400 sbc 240Z also have the same wheels as i have. and my engine builder friend paul is actually considering a set of the same rodlites (same wheel size, offset, and tire size)for his 240 to replace his current draglites. you cant really go wrong with a set of wheels and tires that will basically bolt on and look good for right at $1000.

January 3, 2003

crazy... and STUPID!! i wonder what the driver said in court about what he did. poor jetta... i'm just glad no one was hurt. he could've killed someone.... and he deserves to go to jail as if he had.

January 2, 2003

negatory on the bumblebee tone. i think you would have plenty of ground clearance, but i'm just not a fan of sidepipes... but that has to do with wearing shorts while valeting a viper back in the day... note to self: next time, pay more attention to the label on the center console warning about the heat...

January 2, 2003

dude, you need to call paul. i'm betting he has the answer for ya. email me and i'll send you his phone number.... i have it on speed dial, so that'll give me time to look it up... i'm sure he'd be happy to help, especially since you hooked him up with that 4.11 diff.

January 2, 2003

greimann gave excellent advice on the dual 2.5" to y-pipe to 3" to dynomax. i'd recommend the hooker tip and the flowmaster y-pipe, but not the flowmaster muffler. i'm using one of the 40-series two chamber race mufflers. it looks good and sounds good from far away and has a deep tone... but it resonates really bad and it changed to some strange copper color after a little use. people know you're coming from a mile away, which gives them a little time to get to the front door before you pull in the driveway.

dynomax would probably be a better choice, but the edelbrock mufflers are supposed to be really good, too. keep in mind that you need something that has a length short enough to fit in the stock location (~15", i think...) and have enough room for the 3" pipe to get to the inlet. i'm going with the edelbrock or borlas for my next exhaust.

January 2, 2003

hey, eric. you're more than welcome. my work is in the range of software, controls, and applications engineering. right now, i'm in telecommunications, but i previously have done work in internet/e-commerce (dead now...) and conveyor controls systems.

January 2, 2003

izzy, the th350 is a great and durable transmission. around town, it's great. but, even with the 3:36 diff gearing, i was having to turn the motor up to about 3000 rpms (~70mph) to keep up with traffic on the expressways. my preference is to be keeping up with traffic with the engine turning fewer rpms than that. along with the change in transmission, i'll also be changing my diff to a 3.70 (possibly a 3.90). even with the lower gearing in the diff, i'll be doing 70 mph at around 2200 rpms instead. i'll be getting better gas mileage to boot.

as far as my reasons for the reconversion, it had a lot to do with changing my transmission, wanting to use s&s headers (though they can be used with the hooker/scarab kit), wanting a bigger cooling fan behind my radiator, and wanting the option of running a taller intake and retaining at least a 3" air filter. my waterpump pulley was touching the back of the electric fan as it was... plus, i was pulling the motor and tranny anyway to get the car painted. if it had just been a matter of changing the tranny, i would not be going this far.

i was just going to turn the scarab/hooker motor mounts around (this alone would give me 2 or 3 inches to move the engine back). the mount on the 200-4r is about 5" aft of the mount on the th350, so i wouldnt be able to use the scarab/hooker tranny mount any longer. i had already decided to use the jtr tranny mount to install the 200-4r. i could have gone this route and been able to move the engine back enough to get the taurus fan on my new griffin radiator, with some room to spare. i would still have to cut the hood latch mount on the firewall off either way, as well as having to have the driveshaft shortened since i was sliding everything back some (normally you dont have to have the driveshaft shortened when changing from th350 to 200-4r). however, it just seemed logical to use the jtr setback plates and spacers since i was already going to be using the tranny mount and radiator mount. and the jtr kit would give me even more room between the fan and waterpump. plus, i was able to sell the hooker/scarab kit complete to make up the difference.... and i didnt really wanna be that guy with the scarab/hooker/jtr install.

i'm an engineer, too, and completely consider wanting things done right the first time to be my mantra. when my car was originally done, though, it was right the first time. when i decided on wanting more power, that's when changes started to be made to the original plan. the red car you are looking at is a great looking car and looks like it was done well. listen to the little guy on your shoulder, as well as Pete, Davy, and Larry. i don't think you would notice much difference even if you did change kits later on. if you like the car, then go for it. if not, continue the search.

January 2, 2003

the shifter does just move the cable. it doesnt really matter where the shifter itself is mounted as long as th driver can reach it. i have a b&m pro stick in my car and am switching from the hooker/scarab kit to the jtr kit. my shifter will remain where it is.

btw, i did have to cut my center console some, but that's because i wanted to use the b&m cover. other than that, my installation is like don's, with my shifter mounted to a plate.

January 2, 2003

thanks again for the complements. it drives and accelerates really well in my opinion. i drove it back and forth to work for three months, but it's really a bit much for a daily driver. however, the engine is on a stand right now so i cant say it drives well right now.... the transmission from those pics is a th350 that i no longer own. i have a freshly rebuilt 200-4r ready to go in with my re-cammed 377 when i get the car back from the paint/body shop.

the exhaust from those pics isnt going back on the car. i'll probably reuse that exhaust on another car, but i have full length s&s headers and will run duals after installing a fuel cell. and while i'm at it....

January 1, 2003

ok, you're crazy. yes, they will bolt to the stock studs. the wheels are dual pattern and will also fit mustangs.

January 1, 2003

hey izzy,

thanks for the complement. the wheels are weld rodlites, purchased from jeg's. fronts are 15x6, 3.5" backspaing with 205/60-15 bfg's. rears are 15x8, 4.5" backspacing with 255/60-15 bfg's.

December 31, 2002

yes, that's right. you'll have to make brackets to mount it, but it'll work with the jtr recommended radiator or an aftermarket radiator like the griffin or howe models. you can scour the junkyards or get a new taurus fan here: http://www.autobodypartswholesale.com/cgi-bin/autobodypartswholesale/F160912.html

December 31, 2002

the 'reconversion' itself is very easy, just time consuming. the changes that are necessary involve shortening the drive shaft, cutting the stock tranny mount ears in the tunnel, shortening the exhaust, lengthening tranny cooler lines and rad hoses, and changing to electic fuel pump if it was equipped with a mechanical fuel pump. shifter relocation and throttle linkage adjustments are possible as mentioned by Tomohawk Z above. it's not a weekend project. a plan, the parts, and all the right tools are necessary to see its fruition.

as far as dollars and hours, that's up in the air depending on what all you want to do, but it can get out of hand. i have completely fallen victim to "while i'm at it..." and have spent much more than i originally planned to for the reconversion.

i would have to agree with Davy Z, Pete, and Tomohawk Z in trying it first. fwiw, drive it, enjoy it, and get used to it. you can change it later if you want. i wouldnt discount it either becuase of the scarab/hooker kit. i had absolutely no complaints about how my car handled with the scarab/hooker kit. if you do get that car, you wont be thinking about the kit when you put your foot down.

December 30, 2002

i'm doing the 're-conversion' now... from scarab/hooker to jtr.

December 30, 2002

that's the hooker/scarab position

December 27, 2002

go to home depot and buy a roll of black rubber garage door bottom seal for $7.49. it has a nice edge that will wrap well around the 5" gauges. cut a section long enough to wrap around your gauge and test fit the gauges. the wrap alone will provide an interference fit into the holes in your dash. to make it more secure, however, use some black glue/caulk/sealant between the seal and the gauge, as well as where the seal makes contact with the dash.

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Posts posted by nullbound