MrFancypants

First off, great work. Kudos on the SR... Looks like Im going in the same direction, though Im building the motor myself. Im not surprised to see the Full Race mani won't clear the steering, and can't wait to see pics of your custom solution. My 260Z is soon to go on the rotisserie where the real fun will begin. I was curious to know what radiator and intercooler youre using? They are perfectly sized -- were they totally custom? What shop did you order from? Specs? The orientation is exactly what I had in mind. - Greg -

I have it on mine (it's in the owner's manual), but it has always started without the belts fastened, so a previous owner must have disabled it. I would expect like any other sensor you can just wire it closed. Greg.

Find a way to mount it on the motor or isolate it from the firewall. You'll be surprised the noise that high pressure fuel can make. - Greg -

If you can overcome spindle pin anger, you can marry her for life - Greg -

I think the best compromise between performance and cost is the AZC (or JSK equivalent in my case) up front and the MM 240SX disc setup in the rear. You will still need a prop valve, though. I think the big Wilwoods in the rear are overkill for all but the most dedicated track cars, and you lose your parking brake too (unless you want to add spot calipers for even more $$). - Greg -

1989-1994 240SX Believe it was 1991. - Greg -

Don't know; they came with my fully loaded reman calipers. Should be in the FAST system. - Greg -

I have a 260 -- assumed the rear brake cables were the same as a 240. My cables are the stock ones that used to be connected to the stock rear drums. - Greg -

Hmm.. never had any problem with my parking brake and the 240sx calipers. Grabs hard about halfway through the handle throw. But I made my own adapters. My cables are crossed too -- otherwise they hang funny under the car. You don't need any fluid in the calipers for the parking brake to work... - Greg -

Im sure you can use either. The websites seem to indicate that the grey stuff has higher vibration resistance, but who knows. I prefer the grey because it is less conspicuous around metal joints. That and all the OEM seals are grey. - Greg -

This might be a little early, but remember when you go to install your new filler plug to 1) Not overtighten it and 2) Use RTV grey to seal the threads. The reason fill plugs always seem to get stuck is the plugs are steel and the case is aluminum, and some monkey at one time overtightened it. The dissimilar metals make for a major pain in the ass. All can be avoided by sealing with RTV and a whole lot less torque. - Greg -

Get a motorcyle or carpool - Greg -

It won't leak on the NPT side, but the hose barb might seep a little. Remember not to overtighten the fitting and you'll be fine. - Greg -

Hehe... fair enough. Good analogy too. Even though my motor still runs Im not optimistic that I can pass emissions with it and it will be replaced with a modern EFI turbo motor. I still overhauled the brakes first, however. I figure stopping is more important than going - Greg -

Actually 1 bar and 1 atm are not the same. 1 bar = 14.5 psi 1 atm = 14.7 psi Pretty close, but the difference adds up at high pressures. Kevin, Im wondering what the point of this is. Are you trying to come up with a universal formula to estimate HP or are you just looking for some kind of "bullsh!t check"? I typically just compare NA crank HP to claimed boosted HP and use the ratio described earlier. That gets you somewhat close but there are just too many variables to really estimate this accurately. Even a dyno isnt really "accurate" per se. - Greg -