georgiaz

Summit has the same mount for Camaros and Novas in chrome for about $23 if I remember correctly. That is the one I'm using and it worked out well.

Fastzcars you nailed it with the tip about McMaster-Carr. They have a distribution center here in Atlanta and although you can't buy over the counter, they mailed it to me and I had it in two days. It worked like a charm and looks every bit as good as the original stuff. If anyone is having problems with weatherstripping, this is the solution. Thanks. I'm calling Victoria Brit this morning to give them a peice of my mind and demand a refund on the junk they sold me.

Thanks for the tip. I just looked at it on their web site and it looks as if it will do the trick. I'm working on the order now. I will let everyone know how it works out.

I just called the local Nissan dealer. He said if he could get them, which he doubts, they would be $206.00 each. I have read nearly as many complaints on the zcar.com forums abut the OEM stuff as some of the aftermarket. I'm going to see if I can find an Isuzu in a junk yard to get some off of. Supposedly it works very well.

I know this topic has been hashed and rehashed, but the Precision door weatherstripping will not let my doors close close all the way. The car looks awsome with new paint except the doors stick out about a half inch. Any new suggestions on weatherstripping that fits? The hatch is only slightly better.

I can't pretend to be qualified to give an explanation on that topic. That stuff gives me a headache just reading about it. Do a search on the topic and you will have all of the explanations you could ever ask for.

I have been reviewing posts on wheel and tires for many months and settled on the following setup: Stock springs/KYB gas struts Modern Motorsports Z to Honda wheel adaptors 16X7 wheels with 4" backspacing and +42 offset 215/50/16 tires I decided that with all of the various opinions of what will and will not fit, I figured the only way to know for sure was to try them on for size. Opinions please!!

Georgia Flash, I'm still around, just not getting on the site much lately. I've had a lot going on, but I am dilligently working on the Z. The exhaust gets done next week and it goes for paint on the May 17. I am no wiring expert, but you are right, mine worked out fine. I will try to check back more often so if I can help email me or post a question.

Guys, slow down please, you'r leaving me. I'm showing my ignorance here, but I'm not sure what to look for if I did pull the cover. I did run it down the street the other day (first time and damn it's quick). I know you said it may not be a determining factor, but the right side tire does light up quite a bit more than the left. Doesn't the JTR manual say that the posi-traction was standard?

How do I tell if my 75 280 has a limited slip diffirential or positraction? Tire smoke maybe? I'm not driving it yet.

IT RUNS!! With the exception of the temp gauge everything worked without a hitch. The only thing it smoked was the tires. Now to put the body back together. Georgia Flash send me an email and I will give you my number. It will be a little while longer before I finish insulating the wiring so you can still see the connections I made.

Thanks guys for the help. I called the Nissan dealership and they want $25.00 each for them. Georgia Flash I saw a post earlier this week from someone else about wiring and you said that you had given up on your stock wiring. I'm going to see if mine will work this weekend when I fire it up. Mine is a 75 also with stock wiring so if it works you are welcome to come to Douglasville to take a look at it.

Does anyone know what amp the green and black fuse links are on a 75 280? They are the ones on the passenger side inner fender. The wiring diagran in the Haynes manual shows the links, but next to them it has R70 for the green and R75 for the black. I have no idea what that means. It would be simple to make replacements if I knew the amperage.

The best I can figure the black wires are grounds. Z Law Man I ran into the same problem you did with the wiring issue. wiring is definately not my speciality. On my 75 I spent at least a couple of weeks banging my head on the garage floor trying to figure this thing out. Most of it was due to uncertanty about what to do. The white wires with red stripes go to the fusible links and to the shunt for the amp gauge. I now have all of my wires fairly well sorted out (I think). The plan is to try to fire it up this weekend for the first time. If the wiring fries that means I got it wrong. If everything works you are welcome to come take a look at it. Wish me luck!

I checked the length of the line last night. Ten feet long.

I would think that fuel should not pose a problem for the lines since trans fluid is also petroleum based. They sent me one line probably over eight feet long or so (I will check it tonight) with fittings on both ends. Two short hard lines about 8 inches long that hook to the trans, then connect to the fitting on the braided line. You route the line to the radiator and cut it to length. Then you do the same thing with the other end of the braided line and cut off any excess. the guy at Inline said to cut the braided line with a ziz wheel, then connect it to a compression fitting to the radiator. They even called me after I ordered to confirm the size the fitting going to the radiator was before they made up the kit. The number to Inline is 1-800-385-9452. Easy folks to talk to.

Thanks for the help. I will get them hooked up tonight.

Just in case anyone is interested you can get braided transmission lines from Inline Tubes for around $99.00. That is a little pricey but they look great and its no more than having them custom made. I ordered a set for the Z made for a 72 Chevy C10 that you cut to fit and will have enough left over to do a fuel line.

I have a turbo 350 transmission in the Z and am ready to hook up the cooling lines. Does the upper line coming out of the transmission go to the upper fitting on the radiator and the lower one to the bottom fitting?

There are what appears to be three sending units on the thermastat housing on the L6 out of my 75 280. Which one do I use on my V8? Unless I am mistaken it is the smaller one in the front. I am sure one of you guys know.

Thanks for the help guys. I'm gonna make some noise before long!

I want to fire up the Z in a couple of weeks to check things out, but I don't have the exhaust system yet. If I run it with just the Summit block huggers and collectors am I likely to burn a valve? I always heard that if you run one with just the exhaust manifolds you could burn a valve. It's not worth chancing that.

Thanks for the replies. I got one at Z Car Atlanta for $20.00. GAZRNR the info on the year models helped me get the right one on my second trip. By the way I'm in Douglasville. Maybe we can get together and compare notes.

I discovered tonight that my 280 has the 2" differential flange. I thought all 280s had the 2.25" flange. Is this unusual or is the rearend out of another year model? Anyway I'm looking for a 2.25" now.

I got a Modine 347 four core for $220. That's the number on the box. It's brass and copper and very beefy. I do not intend to ever run hot. It fits like a glove between the frame rails, but I am going to have to move the tabs on the lower support in about an inch because the tanks sit on them. I plan to run a mechanical fan with a shroud. Any suggestions on the shroud?