georgiaz

When I bolt up the crossmember to my th350 and raise it up against the floor pan it seems to be sitting high in the rear. Is this normal or should I drop it down to something near level? Is the angle going to cause a vibration problem. I am using the JTR mounts.

It is probably not necessary, butI must chime in. If it were not for this web site I would not be building a car that is going to make the locals sit up and take notice. The whole concept had previously escaped me until I stumbled accross you guys. Althogh mine is not yet complete I am convinced that a V8 Z is something to be reconed with. 300 horses with a th350 transmission should give the mustangs and buzz bombs something to think about. JTR tells us how to do it. This web site tells us how to make it work.

I am planning to bolt up my tranny this weekend. I had really rusty floorboards. I sand blasted and then had them coated and filled with zinc(It's called a rust buster system and it's pretty cool, but that is a different post). Anyway, the mounts inside bolt to the JTR mounts with 4 bolts as called for in the manual, but instead of being a flat bar they will extend up the trans tunnel 6-8 inches and I am going to put four bolts in the side of the tunnel. I figure that will give me both lateral and hoizontal support. Any one have an opinion on doing it this way?

I have been around cars all my life and the Energy Suspension bushings were about the most frustrating thing I have ever done. Same problem. I ended up screwing up the ones for the rear lower control arms so I put new stock ones back in with no problem. Every thing else is from the kit. I made two calls to the R and D guys at Energy Suspension. They swear they will fit. I ended up chucking the front ones in a drill with a bolt and turning them down a little at time until I got a good tight fit. Angle the edges, then grease them up real good. I finally got them in with a big vise and a couple of extra hands. Good luck.

I've got an 87 350 from a Chevy truck in my 280. It has the staggered bolt pattern for the starter and I used a 153 tooth flywheel. I used that flywheel at the suggestion of a mechanic friend because he said it would give me a little more clearance from the exhaust because the starter sits a bit closer to the engine. Any suggestions for a starter to fit this other than the high dollar Chevy unit?

I'm in. We need to get the word out about this. It's the best idea I've heard in a while and mine is not even running yet.

I'm in the process of identifying the wires to be connected to the V8. The JTR manual says the power to the fuel pump on a 280 is black-white. The wiring diagram in the Haynes manual says it is green-blue. The Haynes manual appears to be correct. Has anyone else run into this? Also, I have been told that the black-yellow wire that goes to the starter solenoid is too small to carry the load to the starter. Opinions?

I'm going to try to do a little more sorting this week as time allows to see if I can get a better feel for whats what. I'm tagging the wires as I identify them before I do any cuttng or pull them into one harness for the engine. I may be calling on some of the Georgia boys on the site for help. I would be glad to trailer it if I can get a volunteer to help with this. Experience sure counts for a lot. Thanks

I've got the Haynes and Chiltons manuals as well as factory manuals for 73, 78 and 79. Just a bit worried about cutting and pulling out wires. Electrical work is not my thing at all. It has been one of my biggest reservations all along. Installing the engine and transmission was a piece of cake. I just don't want to screw something up at this point so I thought I would consult those of you who have done it. Thanks for the input and I welcome more. I'm sure I will be posting on this issue again. Thanks again.

HELP!! I have been trying the search function for days now, but can't get it to work. I am trying to setup the wiring on my 75 280, but the best I can tell it does not correspond with te JTR manual. I emailed JTR and they said that I could pull out the harness for the fuel injection and the rest is the same. I'm no expert, but I must disagree. Can someone help with a diagram, directions or something to help me out here? I'm desperate!

Glory Halleluya! The engine and trans are in! Next question. How and what kind of transmission lines have you guys run? It looks lke I will hve to pull it partway out again to hook them up, but before I started buying and bending line I thought I would, onced again, ask the experts. I am also looking for a flexible dipstick tube for the trans. Any suggestions? I tried to do a search, but for some reason I don't get a response to my query. Is there a problem with the site or is it my computer. I can't live without the search function.

I thought about the rubber line, but was not sure if it would work out ok over time. The stock dipstick wanted to come out between the heater hose conections on the firewall so we pulled it out with plans to use a flexible one. It is pretty tight back there. Thanks for the input. I'm still open for suggestions.

Before I started drilling holes I thought I would ask those with experience. The Bible err, JTR manual says to locate the bracket 1.12 inches below the lip on the cowl. What's up wth the .12 deal? Any advise from those of you who have done this would be greatly appreciated. I would like to do this tonight.

Well I'll be damned. You'r right, it does look good. Economics is going to require me to do it myself though. I just bought another hood for this purpose so I can not get away with that much money on it right now.

I would apperciate pics if you do not mind. Did you do he work yourself? I justlooked at the one in MSA. Is it alreay contoured to the shape of the hood? I'm looking at one that Unlimited products (http://www.up22.com) has for $62.95. They chrge over $40.00 for delivery though.

I need help finding a good Z28 type cowl induction to install on my 280. Against my better judgement I ordered one from JC Witney. I took it out of the box today and will send it back tomorrow. It is flimsey and not long enough (49 inches). I have never bonded fiberglass to metal before so any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Am I going to have problems getting it to follow the contour of the Z hood? Also, will cuttng the hood weaken it? I don't need the clearance, but I love the look and I am sure it will help to have some air flowing under there.

I spent sixteen bucks at Home Depot for heavy duty Klean Strip. On vertical surfaces the paint peels off by itself after about 20 minutes. I had three coats of paint and sanding just wasn't getting it. Its a little messy, but put down plastic before you start and wipe down the panels with paint thinner when you are done. It even lifts bondo with two coats. I would do it the same way again.

If you lay $500 cash on the hood you might be pleasantly suprised. The worst that can happen is that he says no. If he turns you down, walk to your car. If he does not stop you offer him $600.

Gaflash I saw that silver 240 and had the same response. As a matter of fact I saw a couple that I wished I had started with rather than the "free" one I'm working on. Oh well, we have now bonded and my son (it's going to be his) wouldn't have it any other way. I'm sure I saw the mirrors you got because I looked at all of them, but decided to pass until the next trip.

Can someone comment on the quality of the Victoria British weatherstrip kit? I'm considering ordering it and the Energy Suspension urethane bushing kit but I would like to hear from some of you who have used them. The prices seem competative from what I've seen, but what about the quality? Are there any better deals out there?

Thanks for the info on the trans mount. I'm going to try just cutting the mounts first to se if th th350 clears. I'm going to trial fit the engine and trans anyway then pull it back out before I get it painted. I will let you guys know how it works out. I went by Z Car Atlanta on Saturday and picked up two fenders with just a little rust on the bottom in the usual spot and a dome light. The folks were pretty decent thereand the prices were no bad at all. I passed on the same mirrors you got gaflash, but I am planning to go back for them. I think thy will look good on the 280.

Seems to be varying opinions thus far. Any more input would be helpful.

The JTR manual show pictures of a 240 transmission tunnel which is different from my 75 280. The 280 has a support welded to the tunnel that goes over the top and down both sides. Can someone tell me if I need to cut the whole support out or just the brackets on both sides that the old crossmember bolted to?

Seventh edition. The first difference I have notice in the revision is that they reference a radiator from a full size Chevy van with a 4.3 now as the best choice. There may be others, but I haven't read the whole book yet. You are right about the sawzall too. It looks like I will be using a cut off wheel to do the trans crossmember supports. I'm not sure how much of it to cut off on a 280 though. I'm about to do a post about that. Suggestions?

I got it in the mail today. I have been reading posts here for over a year. Now I will soon have reason to access the vast resources that I have been so impressed with. All B. S. aside I read the posts in all areas religiously and I have been very impressed with the knowledge of the members and the willingness to share that knowledge. Thank you all for your help thus far. You guys are too cool. By the way, I have an extra JTR manual (seventh edition)now so if anyone is interested it yours for $25.00.