hoohaa

WOWZERS! I saw GSXR coils for even less than that on ebay. Very nice! It would be fun to go that route also because I could switch to non-wasted spark COP as soon as MS supports it. Excuse my ignorance, but do those "coils" just push down on top of our spark plugs and sit there? Here are a few pics of what I'm looking at for mounting the EDIS wheel to the crank pulley: This is probably the easiest route to go, although the 72-1-1 cam trigger would be cool. Why fabricate a new wheel when I have a good escort wheel already? I have to hold myself back from acting on these crazy ideas sometimes. A question for you machinists: If you were in my shoes and you needed to mount that escort 36-1 wheel to the front of the crank pulley as you see it pictured there, how would you do it? I can't machine down the AC pulley, as I believe BRAAP did, since I will be retaining AC. I don't have a lathe here, but I do have a welder, a drill press, and basic measuring tools like calipers, mics, and dial indicators.

So I want to run Ford CFI 440cc injectors in my VG30. I have a pathfinder lower intake manifold on the bench along with a Z31 top feed fuel rail and regulator. It only takes a single glance to realize that the Z31 rail and hold-downs are not going to work on the pathy lower IM. The outside bolt holes don't line up and there isn't a bolt hole at all on the center injector. I could weld up some little platforms that I could tap out to be able to use the Z31 hold downs, or I could machine a brand new set of rails, or perhaps there's another lower IM that would be compatible with the Pathy upper IM and receive those Z31 hold-down bolts? I would greatly prefer the latter option, although if it comes down to it I will definitely weld up some hold-down platforms. Here are a few pics of the non-fitment:

I see you've got the Bosch "402" CFI injector info. I am going to run Bosch "400" CFIs. Do you think they'd have the same opening times? They all read 2.6-2.7 ohms.

When connecting to either a 14v or 7v (dead 9v battery) power source through the MegaStim on my desk, the LEDs all quickly flash then die. The ignition led is the only one that remains lit. The voltage reads something like 460.2V in the realtime display in MegaTune. It does not waver or change if I switch power sources. The MS worked fine before running the MSII code. I first noticed this today after I began modding the MS2 to use the Extra code. I soldered a 12v supply jumper from the banded end of D9 to JS9 and I also soldered a jumper from DIP 40 pin 10 to JP4 in order to use JS7 (IIRC) as an extra input. After performing these mods I immediately noticed the problem the first time I plugged the MSII in. I also noticed one of the components on the DB37 side of the daugherboard (can't say which) getting hot. I thought that my MS2Extra mods had cause the problem, so I double checked what I soldered and checked the connections, everything was fine. I desoldered the DIP40 pin 10 to JP4 jumper since that was optional, and the MSII powered up normally. I then flashed the MS with MS2Extra code and left it running on 14v power for 5 minutes or so while I played with MS2Extra in MegaTune (it's cool, by the way). The MSII ran the MS2Extra code just fine during this time, all sensors behaved normally with the MegaStim pots providing normal input. Then after I had disconnected power to the MSII, the MSII began malfunctioning in the exact same way. I had not resoldered the pin 10 to jp4 jumper and I had not made any other mods to the board. I just unplugged the power to the MegaStim and plugged it back in and got the dead leds again. Checked the voltage at the megastim and the MSII and I read 14v at both places. Checked the voltage in MegaTune's realtime display and saw 460 or so volts. Most of the sensor displays were also reading absurdly high. I did not notice a hot component on the board this time. I thought at first that my MS2Extra mods had caused the problem, but when the MSII relapsed for no apparent reason I am having second thoughts. What should I check or do?

Matt, thanks for the reply and also the great product. I ordered my MSII and stim from you and it was at my door in three days complete and nicely packaged. I have already modded the MSII to run MSII Extra code, I just have to load the code. About the EDIS: I am still looking into this, but here are my initial thoughts and assumptions: 1. The EDIS-6 coil pack receives three signals through three wires from the module charging the three coils for the three pairs of cylinders. 2. MSII Extra has a nice trigger wheel decoder that I can set up to do just about anything, including running a plain 36-1 wheel right off of the cam. 3. MSII Extra has four (or perhaps six in the beta code?) ignition outputs if you do the mods and add the transistors, which is not that hard to do. 4. I could have MSII Extra read the cam trigger wheel and directly operate a single EDIS-6 coil pack through three of those four spark outputs. I would basically hook up the three spark outputs directly to the three wires on the coil pack. I'd think this would be even better than the regular EDIS-6 setup since MSII will be able to cut spark for rev limiting and launch control, etc. One negative is the fact that the EDIS-6 will no longer default to 10 BTDC in this case since the EDIS control module will be removed. What do you think? I don't really NEED COP, it would be nice, but I think triggering the EDIS-6 pack would be just as good for me, especially since I already have an EDIS setup.

Well theres been a change in plans. I've decided that since I have a block with a couple scored cylinders I will be considering the motor "disposable". I am going to slap it back together with the cheapest ebay bearings, rings, and gaskets I can find. When I pull the running VG30 out of my pathfinder to swap this one in, I can tear that down and hopefully it will be in good shape. Then I can rebuild that one to factory spec with all OEM stuff. I will take the time to do that one right. I see two advantages to doing it this way: 1. I don't have to worry about blowing up a $600+ motor while learning to tune the MSII, and 2. I will have extra money for rebuilding the running VG30 correctly since the gaskets, bearings, and rings for the junk block will only cost me $160 total from ebay. I am going to feel MUCH better while tuning knowing that I can be as rough on this motor as I want to. We'll see how much boost this thing can take.

I remember this picture from when I first started researching EDIS-6 ignition on this board. Very nice!

Can we use the stock Nissan Idle Air Adjusting unit (IAA) and the Idle Air Control Valve (IACV) with MSII? The 95 pathfinder FSM says this about the IACV: "A bimetal, heater and rotary shutter are built into the IACV-air regulator. When the bimetal temperature is low, the air bypass port opens. As the engine starts and electric current flows through a heater, the bimetal begins to turn the shutter to close the bypass port. The air passage remains closed until the engine stops and the bimetal temperature drops." The 95 pathfinder FSM says this about the IAA: "The IAA unit is made up of the IACV-AAC valve and idle adjusting screw. It receives a signal from the ECM and controls the idle speed at the preset value." The 95 pathfinder FSM says this about the IACV-AAC (Aux. Air Control): "The ECM actuates the IACV-AAC valve by an ON/OFF pulse. The longer then ON duty is left on, the larger the amount of air that will flow through the IACV-AAC valve." Sounds to me like the IACV-AAC includes an independent electric warmup function and also a PWM controlled valve. Could the MSII control this valve?

I've always assumed COP would be hard to do on my budget. I would love to have the cleaner engine bay that COP would give me though. Are you running COP? What coils are you using? I have a pathfinder manifold on my VG30 and I could even hide the COPs under the manifold if I knew of some that were small (and affordable) enough.

If I'm overlooking something very obvious please forgive me and don't call me an idiot just yet. I've had ideas about the EDIS wheel mounting bouncing around in my head for a couple days now. I would rather not position the 36-1 Escort wheel on my VG30 crank pulley. The location is too low for my liking and I don't like the idea of a wheel out there in front of the crank pulley adding weight and length (I will be using the AC pulley). Also, mounting the wheel is a little tough to do. Instead, I would like to mount the wheel on the passenger side camshaft pulley. Of course the VG30 is a four stroke SOHC motor, so could I simply replace the 36-1 wheel with a 72-2 wheel and still have the EDIS-6 module control spark? Or is there another way I could use the 36-1 wheel on my cam pulley but change the signal somehow through megasquirt? Thinking about all of this makes me wonder why/if we cannot just control the EDIS coil pack directly through MSII, bypassing the EDIS module. I need to read up on this stuff. The only difference I can think of right now is that the wheel would turn at half speed, but there would be twice as many teeth to pick up, so I would think the EDIS would notice no difference. There is also the possibility of the timing belt slipping and throwing things off, but in this case the motor would be in trouble even if the wheel was crank-mounted. Now the trouble is finding a 72-2 wheel that will easily mount to my cam pulley. Escort wheel: 5.75" ID: 4.04" Cam pulley: 4.72" crank outer pulley 5.15" damper: 4.89"

Is that a GM CLT sensor? If so you will need a 3/8" NPT bung. as you can see, the threaded area is much wider on the new sensor.

I'm trying to figure out what crank main bearings I need to buy for my VG30E rebuild. I want to buy Nissan so that I can buy the proper standard for each bearing. My main journals read "2221" from the front of the block to the rear. The crankshaft has these number stamped into the front weight: I'm thinking that's 2100, but in the FSM I thought the numbers were supposed to be stamped upside down from how those are stamped, i.e. readable above the crank centerline rather than below. If this is the case, I'm assuming I need to buy one "4", one "3", one "2", and one "1", respectively. Is this correct? What exactly are the different grades based on? One other question: is it essential to run only the proper grade of pistons in a VG30 block if we're dealing with used pistons and honed cylinders? If so I need to buy a couple #2 pistons.

The crank is good, all journals were nice and smooth, the bearings were all good. I don't think this was detonation. This is a NA VG30E block. I'm thinking perhaps the oil was contaminated, or the motor was run with little oil. The pistons melted from friction with the cylinder walls, not from excessive heat from lean conditions IMO. I am guessing the damage happened very quickly from the way the internals look. The guy I bought it from had replaced a "blown head gasket" on the motor previously, but then the motor siezed very soon after the HG replacement. I know some of the damage was already done before the HG replacement because someone tried to remove those aluminum deposits from the bores with scotchbrite or something. Not sure exactly what this means, but I'm guessing the "blown head gasket" led to contaminated oil, which led to too much piston friction, which led to aluminum deposits, and by that point replacing the head gasket was not enough, the damage had already been done. Here's my thinking on this situation: this is not a high dollar engine rebuild, it's a budget bearing, ring, and gasket job. If the motor blows up, which is likely for reasons other than the scoring (first time tuning with boost), then I probably won't cry. I'd probably just do another budget rebuild job, but try to find a better looking block. Thanks for the comment BRAAP, that's kinda what I was looking for. Yes it won't be "right", but it will probably run fine... That's good enough for me for this motor.

Sorry for the huge pictures. It's WAY easier to see the scratches with the larger picture size. I will shrink 'em down after I get a few responses.

I am rebuilding a VG30 out of a JDM 95 pathfinder and I found melted pistons. The pistons had worked their way into the cylinder walls toward the fore and aft of the motor, not all the way around. On some pistons it was so bad I could not get the rings out. The pistons left a nice little aluminum deposit in two spots on each cylinder wall. I honed out the bores and most of the aluminum came out. You can still see a bit of aluminum on the top of one of the bores in the following pictures. I am now dealing with scratches on a couple of the cylinders which can also be seen in the pictures. This is the first and worst cylinder. All the aluminum came out of this one and these score marks are what's left after about three minutes of honing. They are just deep enough to sort of catch the tip of your fingernail if you run it over the scratches. The rest of this cylinder looks great. There is one other cylinder with a bit of a problem. It can be seen here: What do you think about these cylinders? Boring out the block is not an option, as this is a budget build. I will hunt for a better block before boring out cylinders. If I just need to spend more time with the hone I will do that too. Are those score marks too bad to run? I'm replacing bearings, rings, and gaskets with OEM Nissan stuff.

Are you guys sure about those compressor maps? I've heard there are lots of mislabeled Holset maps floating around. If that's really a HY-35 map then thanks very much for posting it! Just wanted to make sure you are certain it's authentic.

I am planning to run EDIS and MegaSquirt on my VG30. I was wondering if any of you had ever seen pictures of 36-1 EDIS trigger wheels mounted on the VG30. I'm thinking I will mount mine up on the front of the crank pulley, but I've also thought about a cam trigger wheel or a behind-the-damper wheel.

Finished off the MegaSquirt V3.0 board. BlozUp I like the changes and additions you've made to your site.

We have so many people in this forum from Texas we need to have some sort of MegaSquirt get-together.

I'm driving myself nuts overthinking the wiring harness. I'm at the point where I just need to start cutting wires to length to get it over with. I appreciated Cygnus's pictures in his "Installing the MSII" thread. I was wondering if anyone else had pics of how they did their fuses and power distribution? I'm not planning to use the relay board, but I do want to do a clean job of the harness and leave room for expansion. I need inspiration!

Well I found some pretty cheap aluminum sleeving at sparkandfuel.com that I think I might buy. $1 per foot for 1/2" and I think less for 3/8", but I can't load the page for the 3/8". This wiring harness stuff is complicated! I'm adding a bunch of switches and relays at the same time as wiring the MSII.

I'm building my wiring harness now and I need shielding for the PIP and SAW leads. I've seen different options: single conductor shielded wires, multiple conductor shielded wires, multi-conductor twisted pair shielded, or dual shielded two conductor wires. Theres also the option of just shielding the entire harness with copper braid or something like that. I actually have some aluminum foil tape here that I could very easily shield the entire harness with. What do you guys recommend for shielding PIP and SAW, and potentially the rest of the harness? I'm on a budget but I have time. If I just shielded the entire harness with one big 100% shield would that be enough or do the PIP and SAW leads need to be shielded from the rest of the harness? I would guess that twisted pair two conductor shielded wire would be ideal for this. I'd rather err on the side of too much shielding.

Well after reading up on it I don't think it's for me. MSII B&G code will do everything I need and then some.

Ah thank you. Last night I found the MSII Edis page I had saved to my hard drive and it sorted me out. I desoldered the VR sensor circuit jumpers and then jumpered the hall/optical circuit. Now my IGN led lights up on the MegaStim. How nice.

I'm in Dallas and I have free time, but I am fairly new to this MegaSquirt thing myself. I would love to lend a hand if it were possible.