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  1. To close out this topic for anyone else looking for this part, the oil cooler O-ring from a 2003-2006 350z (Nissan part# 21304-JA11A) is a perfect fit replacement for a 1982 L28ET with the rare horizontal oil cooler option for manual transmissions.
  2. Ah, I had not considered MC, thanks I'll check that. I did and they only have the AT version. Thanks though.
  3. It's not 21334-R2400, please read below. I have a 1982 L28ZXT engine from a 280zx with a 5-speed manual transmission, which (as some may be aware) did not come standard with oil coolers. The cars with automatic transmissions did come with oil coolers but the manual transmission versions had to be requested from the dealer and as such they are exceptionally uncommon. The annoying part about this is the MT's oil cooler is different than the AT's oil cooler and uses a completely different O-ring on the engine side. The AT oil cooler everyone is familiar with mounts at a 45-degree a
  4. That's how I found him years ago and he's been my primary source for parts since. 916-729-7203 for Randy, afaik he only deals locally and doesn't ship parts.
  5. Yes it is. Mine don't feel light at all, they're just right and the car stops quick. They're the dual piston version from a 1999 Toyota Tacoma. Straight bolt on, no modifications necessary. I just upgraded to the LC-2 with a digital hardwired AFR gauge and I'm running a Ford Taurus electronic coil. Having an issue with negative voltage though I haven't been able to nail down yet. The gauge reads the proper AFR but megasquirt is now seeing the values in reverse for some reason.
  6. Thanks Jester. I did an '82 L28 turbo swap almost 2 decades ago and overhauled the electrical system with a megasquirt upgrade with a LC-1 wideband, electronic spark distribution, and 4x4 disc brake upgrade many years back and these forums were invaluable for the information to make those work at the time so it was rather frustrating to provide the part number, wiring diagram, name of the part, and a photo of a simple module yet somehow no one knew what I was talking about in a forum dedicated to this car model. Thanks for the contact Miles, one of my local parts guy's, Randy, f
  7. Thank you for the suggestion Jester. Yes these modules last decades, mine almost made it 45 years, 21 of them with me. I'll look into a similar fuel relay part and see if it will work as a replacement and if not maybe I can trace and pin out the contacts to replace with a modern relay. Otherwise I may just strip it down and rewire the turn signals on a direct circuit and bypass this module entirely. It doesn't help that this part is uncommon due to it being CA specific. I really have no idea how I could be more specific than I've already been. I've given a part number, a photo,
  8. Call it whatever you want, the official wiring diagram calls it a switch and I'm not here to argue semantics but you guys really seem stuck on that for some absurd reason. I provided the part number and a photo, I can't be more specific than that and I could care less about finding an OEM replacement as much as I care about getting the system to function properly again, I'm open to any alternate parts or workarounds anyone else has done.
  9. Already tried parts wanted in other places, one guy has it and he wants $300 for it so that's a no. Yes I called out the wrong switch the first time I'm sorry, it was right next to the correct one on the diagram and I mixed them up. I never did mention looking for the turn signal switch, I only mentioned it works fine and that was in the follow up post and not the OP. There's only one seat with a 6-pin switching relay underneath it and I'm pretty sure when I originally linked the 75 280z wiring diagram (which it says in the link itself) makes it pretty obvious the model and year. I could s
  10. Look Miles, I appreciate you trying to help but you're really going nowhere fast here. You're only giving me information I didn't ask for or already have. I'm not even sure why you linked the service manual without any context.
  11. Sorry, I grabbed the wrong name, it's the "Switching Module (For CA Only)" and the light circuit runs through it, the Floor Temp Relay, and the nearby Checker. And btw, the wiring diagram you linked is the exact same one in my original post. Not sure what you mean by it's missing the right half, the only difference is my link is a PDF and yours is a GIF.
  12. Thank you for the reply but that is not the correct switch. The turn signal switch works just fine. It's the one under the seat. looks like this.
  13. I'm looking for a replacement relay labeled "combination switch" on the wiring schematic (http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/wiringdiagrams/75_280z_wiring.pdf), bottom right side of the diagram. It's part number 25230N4300, which was replaced with part B523089985 both of which are discontinued. I even had the local Nissan service center search the country for any leftover stock of either one and nothing. Has anyone figured out what to use in its place or some other type of wiring workaround? The backstory is that my blinkers stopped working, the driving lights and headlights
  14. Played with the cranking pulse width settings to no avail. Then I noticed a trend with the fusable links. One was ok looking the other was pretty corroded so I pulled both of them and replaced them. Starts up on the first try now which is much better but I still get kickbacks from the starter. Wouldn't the car run terribly if the timing was off? It runs quite well but starts pretty badly (at least on the first try though now).
  15. I replaced my air flow meter with a MegaSquirt system last year and the car ran great but within the last 3 months the car takes anywhere from a couple minutes to 10 minutes to start. It will just sit there and crank over and over and then hesitate briefly and fire up at random. ( It also tries to crank backwards every now and then while starting normally but it's ben doing that since I installed the MS system last year.) Checked the fuel, got pressure, I can hear the the pump turn on and stay on, checked and cleaned all the sparkplugs, checked the distributor cap for moisture, checked for s
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