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himself

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  1. That's how I found him years ago and he's been my primary source for parts since. 916-729-7203 for Randy, afaik he only deals locally and doesn't ship parts.
  2. Yes it is. Mine don't feel light at all, they're just right and the car stops quick. They're the dual piston version from a 1999 Toyota Tacoma. Straight bolt on, no modifications necessary. I just upgraded to the LC-2 with a digital hardwired AFR gauge and I'm running a Ford Taurus electronic coil. Having an issue with negative voltage though I haven't been able to nail down yet. The gauge reads the proper AFR but megasquirt is now seeing the values in reverse for some reason.
  3. Thanks Jester. I did an '82 L28 turbo swap almost 2 decades ago and overhauled the electrical system with a megasquirt upgrade with a LC-1 wideband, electronic spark distribution, and 4x4 disc brake upgrade many years back and these forums were invaluable for the information to make those work at the time so it was rather frustrating to provide the part number, wiring diagram, name of the part, and a photo of a simple module yet somehow no one knew what I was talking about in a forum dedicated to this car model. Thanks for the contact Miles, one of my local parts guy's, Randy, found a working module from a '77 and the blinkers are working again.
  4. Thank you for the suggestion Jester. Yes these modules last decades, mine almost made it 45 years, 21 of them with me. I'll look into a similar fuel relay part and see if it will work as a replacement and if not maybe I can trace and pin out the contacts to replace with a modern relay. Otherwise I may just strip it down and rewire the turn signals on a direct circuit and bypass this module entirely. It doesn't help that this part is uncommon due to it being CA specific. I really have no idea how I could be more specific than I've already been. I've given a part number, a photo, the model and year of the car, and the specific name of the part in the official wiring diagram along with the wiring diagram for reference. I asked for a solution to replace or go around it and no one except you Jester have given an answer relating to this specific module. Granted Miles did provide a solution to a combination switch due to my error which I quickly corrected, however no one since has been even slightly helpful regarding this part. We will have to agree to disagree on semantics, I don't know why everyone is so hung up on calling this part by something it's not labeled as but whatever, I really don't care what you call it. I used the names listed in the service manual's wiring diagram (even if I made a mistake and wrote the wrong name the first time, it was still correct, just a different part) and I've revised the title to reflect the switching module as recommended. These forums used to be much more practical and helpful and less grammar nazi-ish when I was a part of it 10+ years ago. I don't know what happened to this place but it used to be the best resource for obscure and difficult zcar solutions, I'm disappointed to see that it has devolved into a place of inconsequential arguments about who is more right.
  5. Call it whatever you want, the official wiring diagram calls it a switch and I'm not here to argue semantics but you guys really seem stuck on that for some absurd reason. I provided the part number and a photo, I can't be more specific than that and I could care less about finding an OEM replacement as much as I care about getting the system to function properly again, I'm open to any alternate parts or workarounds anyone else has done.
  6. Already tried parts wanted in other places, one guy has it and he wants $300 for it so that's a no. Yes I called out the wrong switch the first time I'm sorry, it was right next to the correct one on the diagram and I mixed them up. I never did mention looking for the turn signal switch, I only mentioned it works fine and that was in the follow up post and not the OP. There's only one seat with a 6-pin switching relay underneath it and I'm pretty sure when I originally linked the 75 280z wiring diagram (which it says in the link itself) makes it pretty obvious the model and year. I could spell it out 100 times but if you don't read it you still wont know the answer.
  7. Look Miles, I appreciate you trying to help but you're really going nowhere fast here. You're only giving me information I didn't ask for or already have. I'm not even sure why you linked the service manual without any context.
  8. Sorry, I grabbed the wrong name, it's the "Switching Module (For CA Only)" and the light circuit runs through it, the Floor Temp Relay, and the nearby Checker. And btw, the wiring diagram you linked is the exact same one in my original post. Not sure what you mean by it's missing the right half, the only difference is my link is a PDF and yours is a GIF.
  9. Thank you for the reply but that is not the correct switch. The turn signal switch works just fine. It's the one under the seat. looks like this.
  10. I'm looking for a replacement relay labeled "combination switch" on the wiring schematic (http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/wiringdiagrams/75_280z_wiring.pdf), bottom right side of the diagram. It's part number 25230N4300, which was replaced with part B523089985 both of which are discontinued. I even had the local Nissan service center search the country for any leftover stock of either one and nothing. Has anyone figured out what to use in its place or some other type of wiring workaround? The backstory is that my blinkers stopped working, the driving lights and headlights still work and so do the hazards so I know the bulbs are still good and that they do indeed flash with the hazards. I've replaced the blinker relay and even switched it with the working hazard relay and they still don't work. Using an ohm-meter I traced the wiring back to the combination switch where the readings don't make sense, something in the switch must be burned out. I mean it's a 44 year old switch so it's probable. What's weird is the same switch controls the hazards too but those still work. Ideas anyone?
  11. Played with the cranking pulse width settings to no avail. Then I noticed a trend with the fusable links. One was ok looking the other was pretty corroded so I pulled both of them and replaced them. Starts up on the first try now which is much better but I still get kickbacks from the starter. Wouldn't the car run terribly if the timing was off? It runs quite well but starts pretty badly (at least on the first try though now).
  12. I replaced my air flow meter with a MegaSquirt system last year and the car ran great but within the last 3 months the car takes anywhere from a couple minutes to 10 minutes to start. It will just sit there and crank over and over and then hesitate briefly and fire up at random. ( It also tries to crank backwards every now and then while starting normally but it's ben doing that since I installed the MS system last year.) Checked the fuel, got pressure, I can hear the the pump turn on and stay on, checked and cleaned all the sparkplugs, checked the distributor cap for moisture, checked for spark and it all was good. Checked and cleaned all my grounds as well. 21 month old battery, year old MSI coil, brand new spark plug wires, all new spark plugs. I've noticed that the time it takes to start depends on the time its been sitting since its last startup; overnight startups take a long time compared to just sitting for a couple hours when it may only take 30 seconds or so.
  13. Ah ok, I did not know the turbo would make any power without properly spooling up. Anyway, no fuel pressure sender hooked up but the LC-1 has already been selected yet the A/F gauge is still really messed up.
  14. It would be the engine vacuum gauge in the MT window which is hooked from MS directly to the manifold. We never hit the throttle hard enough to generate any spool up yet the vacuum still drops below ambient, not much maybe -1 or -2. We only have 2 fuses, 1 for every 3 injectors. We reinstalled MT after hooking up the LC-1 WB as Mario had suggested yet the fuel pressure gauge and the AFR gauge in MT are still messed up. Fuel reads anywhere from -2 to -7.6 and the AFR never changes from 7.35 which I know is far too low. The car idles better than perfect and has no problems if it isn't moving. No Vacuum leaks, no fuel leaks, no open air hoses. I'm central CA in the foothills if anyone is near there.
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