BIGJIM
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Posts posted by BIGJIM
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A Generation 1 SBC would be the most compact and cheapest to outfit with aftermarket parts. They can be rebuilt to be very strong on HP, TQ and reliable depending on choice of parts, machining and assembly.
I agree 100%. Worse case my car requires too much tuning ill pull it all out and sell it and swap in a carbed Chevy v8.
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Nah, if this motor doesnt perform the way i want it will get a carbed small block...prolly be a Ford 351w though.
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That car is a beast! Im kinda regretting going with the Mega squirted L28ET right now in my 240z.We are still working out the tune and it runs like crap. My friend has a good running LT1 on an engine stand at his house i could have picked up pretty cheap. For the money i spent buying just the MS 2 and wide band o2 i could have gotten the JTR Headers, rad and mounting kit. I could have sold off the rebuilt L28et and bought the LT1 or a nice running SBC with a carb and been running good right now.
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Beautiful work, I really could use some advice if you would be available. I would appreciate it if you are willing. Again, amazing job.
No problem, email me anytime at jkoch8104@msn.com.
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Looking for Hi perf engine..
For my S30, turbo or NA, with carb´s or efi
Send pm what You have to offer
Would die for Rebello stroker
I have a l24 built by JG Racing Engines. Ported and polished e31 head, cam, larger valves, n36 intake manifolds, su carbs with sm needles, equal legnth header, electronic ignition. Runs like a clock! looking for $600.00 firm. Email me at jkoch8104@msn.com. Im in las vegas.
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Im looking for the intake plate on the AFM on a L28ET, its much larger than the N/A one.
Also looking for a walbro 255 fuel pump, and a set of lowering stiffer spring for a 77 280z.
Any of those would be awesome.
Thanks.
I might have what you need. I have 3 turbo afm's. A pic would help.
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Im running a 1996 B body ecu and F body harness that was modded by Tom at LT1 Wiring. Its funny to see an obd2 port and check engine light in a 1978 280z..lol.
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Spent a little over a year building this car for a friend. He bought the car here in Las Vegas and it was in over all great shape. 1996 Lt4, other than Jesel valve train its a stock LT4 with Sanderson headers bought from JTR. 2.5 to 3 inch exaust with a flowmaster style muffler and suprisingly its not that loud! It has a T5 trans, heavy duty clutch, poly suspension bushings, rear disk brakes and tokico suspsension. I installed 240z bumpers, did the body work and painted it 69 Hemi orange.Here are some pics from the build.
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I dont know that paint code, but its Omaha orange with a little orange pearl in the clear.
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Starting bid is 39k, and a 55k buy it now. Good luck with that sale...lol.
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I still have an account. I moved to Las Vegas and still do this work on the side as time permits. One would need to leave the car with me and be patient as i work in the convention industy now and dont do the paint thing full time. Prices have changed since 6 years ago lol. Pm me or email me at jkoch8104@msn.com with what you need done. Here are a few pic's of a car i recently built for myself.
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Ok ive done the search and found tons of s30 info but not much s130 info. I have a 1980 with Tokico blue struts and Tokico springs. The car handles great but has a very stiff ride. This car is a rust bucket so i purchased a 1981 280zx with a bad engine. So i plan to swap the 1980 engine into the 1981. Now the 1981 (new car) has Eibach springs on stock struts all the way around. The ride height looks good but i can put my knee on the bumpers and move the suspension a good 4 inches, but on the 1980 (old car with tokicos) it barely moves at all. I worry ill have a less sporty ride if i leave the Eibach's in, but the stiff ride the Tokico's give is a little much for a daily driver. What should i do? Im thinking use the Eibach springs with the Tokico blue struts??? I need an experts opinion. Thanks in advance!!
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A friend of mine got this turbo from the sema show. A client gave it to him for doing extra work for free. He knows nothing about cars or turbos so he asked me to find some info and sell it for him. I cant find any info online so i figured you guys can help. It reads t04b on the tag, but next to that it looks to say t3, but the hand writing is bad and i cant for sure say it says t3. The cold side of the turbo says m24 a/r .60 and the hot reads a/r 1.00 m3. Looks to be a nice peice but im not a turbo expert. Check out the pics and see what you guys think. I appreciate any help!!
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If the paint is in good shape no primer is needed for a quick cheap paint job. Wetsand it with 400, wipe it down with a good wax and grease remover and paint. If the paint is checked, peeling or bubbling you will have to do lots of sanding and a nice coat of primer would be recommended.
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BIGJIM... Did you mean original 240Z colors or any color???
LARRY
Yes, im gona go an original color since i am planning to build this car to sell and im looking to get top dollar! Its the whole reason for the build to be honest.
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Im picking up a 1970 240z thats in excellent shape. I plan to gut it to a shell and do a complete paint job, inside and out! The original color is dark green and the plan is to build a car that will be worth every penny that i put into it and more. It will have a stock look with the exception of a lowered stance, wheels and aftermarket front valance/spoiler. Ive seen 1970 240z's got for 12-15k on ebay and i want to get top dollar for it some day when i sell it. My last 240z i painted orange, one before that was red. Looking for opinions!!
I did this car last winter
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I think anyone here that really knows anything at all about refinishing work. Knows cheap can be expensive!! Quality products is an investment!!! Too much time an effort is spent refinishing cars. If you really think you are going get a long lasting quality paint for 50 bucks your dead wrong. It doesn't matter how it looks at first. You can spend 50-200 bucks on one stage crap 400-500 on duPont or diamont system or 800-1000 on standox or glasurit. You can make them all look good. Even though one stage crap will never look as good as a 2-3 stage system. The question is how often do you want to paint your car once a year, every 5-10 years or one time in your life. Every project and situation is completely different. In some cases the 50 dollar paint job might sever its propose.
If your really putting a lot of time and effort into your car and want everything to be really nice. Cheap crap paint is the wrong way to go. Some people spend 300-500 hours on their project cars restoration type work. I'm in the process right now in refinishing my 1996 impala SS. Taking every thing apart and to bare metal. Doing it the right way. I might spend 50-60 hours before I even reach the spray booth. Why the hell would I use cheap crap paint to save a few hundred bucks and have my paint fad crack and fall off in a few years. After all that work.. Might as well buy some recycled car tires and some window tint from walmart. I'll save SOO much money dude!!!! Something to think about.
Derek
The way i see it is i never EVER plan to keep a car more than 2-5 years. I used the one stage acrylic enamel paint because i know they last quite a long time. I sold a car that i painted 10 years ago and the paint is still nice, not bad for one stage crap huh. Its all in the prep work. I know there are some garbage paints out there, and no matter how much prep is put in they still dont last. There are guys on this site that dont have the cash, or just dont want to spend the money on the high end paints. They want to put there money into the engine and suspension. I myself don't see the need for me to ever use the brush on or roll on methods because i have been painting for quite some time and even done it for a living at a fruehauf truck dealer for a few years. I need to know the paint has a catalyst and wont fade after a year in the sun here in las vegas.
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Ive used $35.00 a gallon el cheapo paint from eaby with some hardener and reduced correcty to acheive this:
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Im in Las Vegas and do a little side work here and there. Here is one i just finished then sold. http://roadgodz.com/viewforum.php?f=8 I also do suspension, interiors, engine bays, etc. You can pm me here or email me at jkoch8104@msn.com. Maybe i should build a fancy website as well?????
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Check your timing, I 12-16 degrees is a good starting point for static timing. What type of fuel pump is being used?
What if, instead of pulling into the street and "hammering it", you just smoothly and slowly open the throttle. Does it run OK when you do that? If it does, make sure the accelerator pump on the carb is working properly. If you look down the primaries and open the throttle, you should see 2 strong streams of fuel coming out of the nozzles. If its working properly, start playing with cams and larger nozzles. Does this carb have the 35cc pump or the 50 cc pump. i would upgrade to the 50cc pump.
Even if i ease into it the stumble and lack of acceleration is there. It has one of those mechanical aftermarket fuel pump. I think its a holley, so im sure its pumping tons of fuel. Ive moved the timing all over the place with no improvment. Ill have to check on the 35cc or 50cc pump as im not at home right now. He also has some type of fuel pressure regulator on it. Im gona pull it off and see what it does without it. Thanks for the help, any other suggestions are appreciated.
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Im helping a friend with his 383 powered 280z. The engine is a fresh 383, has a crane cam (not sure of the specs but it does have a nice lopey idle) Holley 750 carbs with vaccume secondaries, air gap intake, ported cast heads with 64cc chambers and roller rockers, flat top pistons, accell distributor, headman headers, hughs 3000 stall converter and a th350 trans. We have been messing with this beast for a few weeks now. It purrrrrrrs like a kitten and comes to life like a lion when its sitting still. Soon as you take it up the street and hammer it it falls flat on its face. Seems to bog and miss, wont rev up or get going at all. As soon as you stop the car and rev it all is fine again. I am totally stumped! Any advice on where to look would be appreciated and save my sanity.
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I would go with the weld drag lites. They look great on an early z!
Lt1 A/C delete problems
in Gen I & II Chevy V8 Tech Board
Posted
I used the bracket but went to the junk yard and picked up a smaller pulley. If you bought the Dorman a/c delete kit the pulley is too big and hits the frame rail. DON'T cut the frame rail!!