BIGJIM
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Posts posted by BIGJIM
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Don't think so. I too never understood why anyone would buy a new points distributor. Like buying a brand new wagon wheel. I'd suggest a NA 280ZX distributor. Do a search, lots of info on distributors for L series.
Ive searched, didnt find what i need. The zx distributor has always been my choice, but ive never run tripple with little to no vaccume. So the vaccume advance 280zx distributor wont work with out mods.
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Im running tripple webber 40's. When i bought the car it had a mallory dual point mechanical advance distributor. I was told webbers make very little vaccume, so thats why it has the mechanical advance. I HATE points, can i get a petronix electronic conversion for a stock 240z distributor and use it in the mallory?
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For the money, you still got a sweet deal. The blinkers alone can be sold for more than 33 bucks. The fiberglass repair is easy, glad to see you took care of it big-phil, its looking good!
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If the chrome/stainless were glossy black, that would look serious. Flat black on yellow, not so much for me. I'm not into silver wheels either, but for curiosity's sake, what wheels are you using? That might help to decide for us.
It would all be gloss black, im not much into the flat or satin blacks except in the engine compartment. These are the wheels, there charcoal right now, but are scratched up. So, ill powdercoat em black more than likely.
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Im in the process of building a 1972 240z. Im getting the engine finished up and will be doing the body and paint within the next month or so. Im going with the factory yellow/lime color. Im trying to decide on what to do with my wheels and chrome parts. I was thinking about powdercaoting the wheels, bumpers and all associated chrome or stinless parts black. Black and yellow should look sweet right? Or powdercoat the wheels silver and leave all the chrome? My wife wants me to do the yellow and black, but im undecided. What should i do guys???
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Ive had a low back surgery, same one your getting. L4-L5 disc blow out. Mine was an 12mm herniated disc. They did wahats called a decompression. They basically trimmed the part buldging out against the nerves. Surgery helped, but im still far from fine. Ill have on and off pain the rest of my life.
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I decided to go in another direction. Im just WAY to busy with my job to build a car anytime son. I sold everything to a local guy here in las vegas. I recomended this site to him so he can learn more about the swap.
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I have a 750 holley double pumper, spread bore carb. Some time ago i had it rebuilt, they sandblasted it to give it a new appearance and seems to have caused the bowls to leak. I brought it back and they just put epoxy in the spots where it was leaking and gave it back to me. Seems to have held for a while but now its leaking again and the place is out of business. Any help is appreciated!
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The tray area is rusty, but all surface rust, no rot through at all and very solid still.
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They are simulated leather, much much cheaper than real leather, and they are of excellent quality. Only $99.99 each at kragen auto parts, hurry the sale ends soon!
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LOL, seems like everyone thinks its impossible. Ive built a few z cars and more chevys and know i can knock this thing out pretty quick. I wont be doing alot of while im at its, so im sure i can do it, just wish me luck guys
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Nothing special under the hood, just a satin black. The exterior will be painted bright orange with dupont 2 stage then color sanded and buffed till its like a mirror.
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The old inline 6 is history, and im ready to pressure wash, scuff and paint the engine bay. Ill have to make the nessesary changes to the engine compartment as well. I still have a ton of crap to buy, drive shaft, shifter, etc etc. I hope to have it up and running by october. That includes the full drive train ready to roll, body and paint, all new weatherstrip and all new interior. I have alot of work but was fortunate to have found a rust free body to work with. Here are some pics to check out.
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Ok, i need some details on this and more pics! Is it a draw through system, looks like it so it must be, what parts did you need to make this system?
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My question is, can i use a new 280zx turbo rad with my small block chevy conversion? It would be a 3 or 4 row rad so i cant see why it wouldnt work well, its about the same size as the nova radiator that jtr recommends. I would be running an eletric fan with it as well. Thanks for any info.
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How much did that vintage air gen 2 set you back? Ill need somthing, a/c is a must in nevada.
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Nah, this is the engine its getting, 350 bored .030 over, comp cams 230 duration (i forget the lift but its not that big) with roller rockers, flat top pistons with 64cc chevy heads, mild port work done, edelbrock performer intake, stainless shorty headers and a 750 double pumper holley carb.
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Im about to put together a 260z with a mild chevy 350 with an auto trans. Im running stainless block hugger headers. What exaust should i run? Im thinking 3 inch snigle, or 2 1/2 duals, but im not sure how this would fit under the car. It will be lowered using tockico hp struts and springs. Whats my best choice?
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Im about to do a small block installation in my 74 260z. Wondering if i could run a/c , i live in las vegas now and NEED a/c. Anyone running a/c with a sbc?
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Fixed it, it did have water in the tps, thanks for all the help guys!
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Took my zxt over to the car wash, i noticed this one had an engine cleaner, so i figured what the hell the engine needs a good cleaning. So i precede to clean the engine, then i washed and dried the exterior and im ready to head home. I started the car and it fired right up and seemed to be running fine. I got it out on the street and stepped on it and soon as it hit 2100 rpm it stops like some one shut off the key, if i let off the gas and step in the clutch its still running and running perfect. Soon as i get on it and it hits 2100 rpm it does the same thing every time. Ive let it idle for an hour now and its still pulling the same crap. I paid very close attention to not soaking the distributor, yes it got a little wet but no totally drenched. WTF did i do now, i hope something is just wet.
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I have an 81 zxt with an auto trans. I know the auto cant be helping my situation. My car seems like the slowest pile of $hit in town from a stop till the boost starts to spool up, then it takes off like a bat out of hell. Just about ANY car on the road cant leave me behind till boost. I also get a popping now and then when i give it full throttle from a dead stop. Is this car way out of tune? I havent dont much of anything to the engine since i bought the car. Any help is appreciated.
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i have a toyota supra intercooler i planned to use. will it work with a t3/t4, larger injectors, bigger exaust and other mods to make 300hp? or should i sell it now and get a better unit? i know i can make it fit, but i dont know if it will be efficient enough for a 300hp motor. thanks for all the help guys!
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nah, im leaving it in the zxt for a while...unless i find a 240z that needs nothing but a donor motor and trans. otherwise i just dont wanna restore another car anytime soon. i love 240z's but i just dont have the desire to build another.
Mallory distributor question.
in Nissan L6 Forum
Posted
Thanks man!