BIGJIM

I have my own little area on roadgodz.com, all the pics of my current 240z project.

Its getting painted orange. I planned to go with the original color but changed my mind. Im putting bumpers back on so no shave required. I have a spray booth reserved for next saturday, so more pics will be on the way. Thanks for all the compliments, its been a long road to this point!

Started the day with ugly door jambs Alot of saning and some primer Getting the hood ready The hood, headlight buckets, inspection lids and cowl getting primer

Did you ever get the smoking to stop? Im in the middle of the body work right now, so driving the car is a no no for at least another month.

Get some poly primer, its VERY thick and will fill in the imperfections. Might as well just do it the right way, house paint will ruin your car!

Well, they looked great once they were on. It was just a huge amount of work to get them to look perfect.

This is what i did a few years back on a 240z. I like the look, but wouldnt ever install a set again.

Yes, its the one part air dry stuff. Ive used to before with out issues. I think people have problems with it when they try to fill dents in with it. I used it for tiny little pin holes and 99% of it will be sanded off. I hope it doesnt cause problems. I really would hate to have to take it out and start over. I'll pick up some 2 part glazing filler tomorrow and not use this stuff anymore.

The red spots are little chips i fixed with glazing putty.

More block sanding. Should be ready for its 2nd round of primer early next week. If i didnt have to work the sema show this weekend it would be done and waering fresh primer by saturday evening.

Guide coated, one fender blocked. I figured i'll do one body parts per night till its done, then reprime.

I used featherfill. Ive used it quite a few times now, and its good stuff. Hey, got a question for you. I usually wetsand poly primer with 220 then 400. The can (i decided to read it this time) says 320-400 dry. What do you recommend? I wetsanded this same stuff before, and had no issues. Thanks for any help you can provide.

She is in polyester primer. Its super think, and fills in the sanding scratches and pin holes left from the filler. Looks good, but needs a ♥♥♥♥ LOAD of block sanding, then i'll shoot her with primer again.

Ya, its staying the lime color. Its kinda growing on on me.

Is that a mazda color? I did a car a few years ago in a mazda color called black cherry mica. It looked almost black till the sun hit it. Your car looks excellent!

I lived i san bernardino for 14 years. Just moved out to vegas 2 years ago. Where in berdoo do you live? I know alot of the z guys out there, but most were into s130's and z32's. I was the lone 240z guy around there.

Nay on the powdercoat. For suspension parts yes, floor pans no. The line-x would be an excellent choice. Search for a topic on line-x. There is a guy here that did his engine compartment in it, looks great!

Got the car all da sanded down, bondo is on it but it got late. I'll be doing alot more sanding tomorrow. Then the polyester primer goes on some time next week. After that a ton of block sanding and she will be ready for paint. I know there looks like a ton of filler on the car, but 90% of it will be sanded off. The car is pretty straight, just lots of dings and wavy fender tops. More pics will follow after i sand off all the filler.

Mine works fine, i welded up all the emblem holes in my 240z.

Ive built 6 L series engines so far and never had this happen. If i had the right tools to do a leak down test, i would do it myself. Most of the so called "MECHANICS" wouldnt be allowed to touch my kids bike, let alone my 240z. With every engine i ever built, including big block chevys to small block fords, to datsun l4 and l6's, i usually fire em up, run em up to 1500 rpm and break em in for 10-15 minutes. No problems ever. Did i not stagger the oil rings correctly this one time, maybe? But all 6 cylinders, i think not. Must need a good break in, but time will tell.

I have your EXACT symptoms with my rebuilt l28. Have an f54 block, n47 head, fresh rings, bearings gaskets. Honed the block , checked ring gap, everything is speced out and should be perfect. But no...it smokes like a mofo. Tried rebuilding the carbs, no help. Tried pulling the head and replacing the head gasket and putting on a whole new head that was on my other z (working perfect) didnt help. Put in different 3 quarts of 40w oil and 1.5 quarts of lucas oil stabilizer, still smokes. I havent run it much other than in the garage at idle, and smoke quick revs here and there. Only thing i can think of is to do like others have said, and to take it out and run it hard to break it in. BUT, my car is all apart ready to get body work and paint done. So until that stuff is finished it will sit as is. Let me know if taking it out and running the snot out of it helps.

Got most of the body apart. After the body work is done i'll pull the doors and hatch off and sand the jambs before putting her in primer and paint. Lots to go, but im starting to see the light. Found some MAJOR body damage The SUPERVISOR!

The fronts are progressive, and that sucks. Buts thats what i have right now and i'll use em for a while. It would be nice if tokico let you know about this before buying them. Fronts are progressive, rears arent. Lame!!!!! It looks like they will hit the msa bumps stops at any bump in the road, since i can bounce the front end pretty easily and bottom them out.

Uhhh...i knew thats what i was gona hear Thanks alex. Ive been working my ass off here in Las Vegas. Havent been online a whole lot in the past year. I bought another 240z to play with about 3 months ago and ive been slowly putting it together. Ive checked out your site many times in the past year, you guys really have come along way. Your 240z is sweet and so are the cars you guys build. I gotta get on aim one of these days so we can catch up!

Ok, might sound like a stupid question, but i need an answer on this. I installed one side of my new tokico struts and springs tonight on my 240z. My question is, on the coil springs one end has the coils closer together than the other end. Does the end with the coils closer together go twords the top or the bottom? I installed the drivers side front so far, and i put the end with the coils closest together twords the top. When i put the car on the ground to bounce the front end to see how it feels, it seemed to bottom out easily, and if i look under the car at the springs, seems like the coils that are closest together are almost touching. Did i put em in upside down?