MustangSix

Some cars have a temp gauge AND a temp light. Two different senders.

I'm not sure if that's the same company I bought mine from about a year ago, but you need to carefully look at the left side when you install them. On mine, the #1 tube hit the engine mount and the flange was touching the block just above the oil pan. Made it impossible to tighten down and seal. I had to dimple the front tube for mount clearance and grind a small boss off of the block to get a good fit. The only way to dimple that stainless tube is to heat it with a torch first. This may not be an issue with yours, but test fit it and check those areas. Right side was no problem and fit well.

I wouldn't worry about it. Those things are just tapped in and are snug enough to stay put. The force acting on the dowel is perpendicular to the hole, so there's nothing acting to pull it out. And the pressure plate is also adding some friction as well. They aren't going anywhere.

Grump, How about a cam recommendation? 350 Chevy, Edelbrock aluminum heads, 9.5:1 CR, C-26 Edelbrock Intake w/ dual 500 Edel carbs (one manual choke, one electric choke). Car is not a Z; it's a 3600lb Jag XJS with a 200-4R and a 2.88 rear riding on 245/45-17 tires. I'm looking for lots of torque, esp down low. The rear mey eventually get swapped, but for now that's the gear I have to live with, so 4th gear will mean low rpms. I'm going to install something that will limit 4th gear engagement until it gets above 40-45 mph. I'll also have a Hobbs switch to disengage the lockup at low vacuum. I've been looking at something pretty mild, but I really want to keep the dual quads for the visual impact, even though a single 4bbl would be easier to do. Any thoughts?

What length pushrod is needed for this conversion? (holy cow...been lurking for several years and this is post #1!!)