kuntry

Ive been using that welder around the house for about a year now, works great. I even used it to patch the rust holes in my Zs floors. No, its not the prettiest job, but nobody will see it when Im done. Ive also used it to tack a few bigger jobs, then take the pieces to work and use the big mig there to finish off the job. I did find out that the .035 wire likes to bind up unless the lead is almost perfectly straight, I changed over to the .030 wire and tips and havent had that problem since.

ok, thought of a couple more things as I walked back outside. The Z is a '73. And I DID DO A SEARCH.... I just searched the wrong words...lol. I did a search on straight axle instead of solid axle. I redid the search and came up with a couple threads, but they are all for ford (bleh) rears. Has anyone done a 12 bolt rear? Or would it be any different anyway??? Im just not sure and want to have all the facts before I start tearing the back half out of the car. And for you guys running back halves, where is the best place to get the rails, Im not sure if they are universal or made for our cars. Thanks again guys, and sorry for the double post.

Ok, I had a thought just now and I was wondering how hard it would be to accomplish. I have had a truck in the driveway that Ive been working on for quite awhile now. I just have too many projects and not enough time or cash right now. The fresh 383 has already been pulled to drop in my 240. It looks like the truck is going to be on hold for so long, Im thinking of selling it......BUT..... it has a narrowed 12 bolt posi from a 67 Camaro in it with ladder bars and coilovers. I just measured it and its 44.5"s backing plate to backing plate. Then I measured the Z and it looks like its around 46-47"s. The tubbing is no problem, but I know the ladder bars would have to go. My question is, what kind of setup am I going to have to run to hold this rear in place? I already have the coilovers, so it wont be a problem to fab a couple brackets for those. Its just that this car sits so low, and with no real frame to attach it to, I dont know what the best choice is for installation. Any tips and/or pics would be greatly appreciated.

where did you find 3" pipes? all Ive been able to find is 2" so far.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/EZ2Wire-Universal-Wiring-Harness-painless-to-install_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ34206QQihZ009QQitemZ190038508984 this is the kit im going to be installing. they have a 26 wire circuit for only $10 more.

Great !!!!! thanks guys. Im hoping to mock the engine up next weekend to make sure theres no complications. Then hopefully I can have it dropped in for good by the end of the month.

Hey, I have a ? for you guys. I got a motorsport mount kit with my Z, but no instructions. Do yall know what chevy mounts to use with this kit? It has a place for one bolt to go straight down, so the "regular" chevy mount wont work. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

He was pretty friendly yesterday when I went to see him. Plus he gave me some decent prices.... $100 for a set of rust free door shells for my 240 and another 20 for a decent cowl panel. I couldnt find better prices anywhere else.

Im not sure if this is the correct forum, but I couldnt find any other that seemed appropriate. Ive done countless searches on the net and several calls to Houston area junkyards looking for parts for my Z. Today I found a repair shop that specializes in Zs here on the north side of town. He has several parts cars in the yard and might have parts that some of yall are looking for. Just trying to help yall that might be looking for hard to find parts.... Doug Bakke Awesome Z 4004 Trenton Rd Houston, Tx. 77093 office- 281.219.0015 fax - 281.219.0016 toppriority280@aol.com

good find. Ive looked all over Houston and havent found doors and a cowl panel yet. Im thinking about just glassing them as a temp fix untill i can locate some good ones.

Try to get between the block and head gasket.

I had this problem a couple weeks ago with a 454. I ended using a small putty knife, and GENTLY tapping it with a hammer between the block and head. Once the seal was broken it was no problem seperating the heads.

Depends on why your "forced" to put it back together like it is. Is it your only transportation or what? Your best bet is to do it right the first time and be sure that its going to last. How many miles are on the short block? From what I have seen in the past, sticking a new top end on an old motor usually isnt going to last long before the bottom end starts having problems. It took me 2 years to get my engine together because I didnt want to half-ass it. As far as the 1.6's go, I like them, extra lift without having to go with more duration. I have a set of 1.6 Dove rockers for my stroker. IMO its better to have to put off the engine a little longer rather than skimp on the build. A fresh hone, new bearings and a set of rings wont cost that much, but are good insurance that your motor will be dependable.

I cant get any of those pages to pull up for me

Yeah, my neighbors HATE me. Ive had the stroker running in my truck for a couple months now open header.... it hasnt gone any further than the end of the street and back. But the concrete driveway looks more like asphalt now...lol. Hoping to get the engine dropped in the Z in the next couple weeks.