240Z_478

Did you ever get any more details?

Well the merlin crawler 5 speed is pretty strong. If your going to be drag racing the car or banging gears the 5 speed will fail. The V160 can handle anything you throw at it. But at a serious cost, for the trans, rebuild and a tilton clutch to handle that amount of power your looking at nearly 10k. I cant justify spending so much on a trans but the manual trans sure would be nice;-). As stated above if you can afford the 1000HP power build the trans is not such a big deal. Personally I am just going to get myself a TH400 as its way cheaper and can also take all the power you can throw at it.

Honestly... Yes. I would say you should prob look on supraforums. I know there is several threads covering this topic over there.

That is almost exactly the same set-up I had planned for my car.... Looking good I don't think I will be shooting for that much power though I plan on staying around 750 with nitrous and race fuel. One question I don't see anywhere that your building your block are you going to aim that high on the stock block? Also I may be interested in the mount kit and would be interested to see some pictures of that.

Well I am not sure of your plans but to answer shortly yes the rear end will not last with a 2JZ. There are a lot of posts regarding a differential choice for your Z. Here is a good place to start... http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=114798&highlight=R200+diff

Now For the engine pictures When it arrived Block after cleaning Head After Cleaning Block after being painted New Bearings, Rings, and ARP Rod, Main, and Head studs

Old Floors Pass Side Floor Drivers Side Floor Engine Bay (lots of work still needed)

Well I have been waiting to start a thread until I can get my motor finished being rebuilt. I have received all the pieces and finished building the head so the motor should be done here in a month or so. On to the project I was given a 1973 240Z by my grandfather I had no idea what I was getting into. I got the car running and drove the car around for about a year. I had to many problems keeping the motor running so I decided it was time to step up to fuel injection. I found a guy getting rid of a wrecked turbo 280Z and took the motor from the car. Around the time of tearing into the car to swap out the motors I decided it would be a good time to strip the car and re-paint the body and fix the rust spots. During the stripping process I found that the floors were completely rusted through on the passenger side. So we started to replace the floors. All the time I was tearing the car apart I spent hours on this site looking into building my L28 and making the car a monster on the street. Well I came across Z-Gad's car and started thinking about the possibilities. After watching his pass a few dozen times I decided the L28 was not going to be enough for me. So I convinced my wife to let me buy a 2JZ-GTE and we did. I received my JDM Aristo motor and started tearing into it. Well as I said in the beginning the engine is almost complete again. I have decided to stay with the stock re-freshened bottom end with all ARP hardware. I am leaving the bottom end alone as it can handle the power to achieve my goal of 10's. The head was built with ferrea valves and retainers, ported and polished and will receive GSC Race cams. I will be buying a built TH400 in the future as well as installing a built ford 9". I am hoping to get the car running within a year so we will see how it goes. Anyways on to how the car sits as of right now.

Now that looks very firmiliar I just got done repairing all of the holes and rust damage in my engine bay for my 2JZ. Looks good

Well I am in the process of rebuilding my 2JZ and I can not find for the life of me a way to determine what bearings I need. I know that I can get the stock bearings by just the numbers on the block and crank. But say I wanted to get something better than stock such as the Clevite or the Power Enterprise or even ACL. The Clevite and the ACL only have two sizes how would you go about getting the proper clearances? I understand it is prob a big secret but just a little pointing in the right direction would help.

Well I can tell you if it is not running you will have your hands full... My brother just bought a 95 FWD Talon and we were told that the timing belt just needed to be replaced and that was it. Needless to say its been a month $1200 dollars later and the car is still not running. For that price I would personally do it especially for the AWD model. Just be prepared to spend a lot of money and time. Most DSM guys spend more time working on the cars then actually driving them.

One thing to remember about fernley is that drive will kill a vehicle your talking almost 70 miles a day. Fernley also is still a growing town that only has two entrances into the town, and not much is out there yet. A forman at my work lives out there and the drive is getting to be worse due to the ammount of people and traffic moving out there. Houses are not much cheaper than they are here in sparks especially if you are just renting a house. So the wear and tear on the vehicles is almost not worth the $30,000.00 you will save buying in fernley. A better area to look into would be spanish springs (Certain areas are no smog) or North valleys, Stead area. Also you can just get a P.O. box in Fernley if no smog really means that much.

Well housing and living is a little cheaper but still not going to be able to buy a house here in reno/sparks on that income I promise that! I make almost 50k and my wife almost the same and it has been really tough getting things in-line for a house. A condo might be ok for someone who is single. I thought you had mentioned a girlfriend that did not seem to want to come. I am in no means religious but I do have friends and family here and there are a quite a few good churches here that you could start a new "family" with. About the no smog thing not really going to happen here unless you live in fernley or carson, about 45 minutes away from town. But its not as strict here to get it smoged. Let me know if you do decide to come over here to Reno or have any other questions.

Well I was advised against getting an E-Bay one. Eventually I ended up getting the E-Bay one. The motor had a few items that were damaged in shipping the guy replaced them for free. I would still agree with everyone that if possible you should get a local one but I got lucky and got a good E-Bay one. I ended up paying 1800 shipped with auto trans, harness, and ECU. You will need a toyota transmission with the exception of using a TH400 auto trans. The R154 is a cheaper 5 speed, the Getrag 6 speed is not cheap but very strong, and the stock toyota auto from what I understand is an ok choice for low power levels but even after being built is not that strong (I may be wrong with this one). You will just need to have a custom drive shaft made to mate the trans to diff.

Sounds Good I dont know if you saw It but I found that ATI adapter kit at summit for a lot less. http://store.summitracing.com/egnsearch.asp?Ntt=2JZ+ati+adapter&searchinresults=false&Ntk=KeywordSearch&DDS=1&N=700+115

Justin what adapter did you end up going with?

Looks Great Justin! We are actually almost in the same boat I am going for the fender exit Single turbo JZ as well. Only difference I think I may go with the R154 and my turbo wont be quite as big.

Very nice and then what add the plenum to that? Were wou going to use one of his plenums he has or have one made? I ask because there is a lot of things that are not going to be needed on the stock intake manifold that I have and could use something like that.

What was the plan with this intake? were you going to add on to the runners that are there or replace them?

That is what the reponse from the seller was as well. I think the engine will be fine now I just need a mid-sump pan and a trans and we will see how the startup goes. Thanks for all of the help.

Well it was not half as bad as I had imagined the engine is in good shape the oil was from the motor being on its side at one point the engine itself looks to be in good shape. The guy was actually very helpful and told me to send him a picture of the broken plug coil and he would send me another one.

Wow I really dont know how to take that I hope you were being sarcastic. I put this question in this post because I am VERY aware that I have a front sump pan. The question I asked was how much is a rear sump pan going to cost me? I am not sure what the E-Bay thing has to do with anything about this post.

What is an estimate on the price of a Mid-Sump pan?

Well I ended up buying the E-Bay one and lets just say it probably wont be a good experiance there was some water/oil in the plug holes all the spark plugs were coated in the substance. should i be worried it did not seem to be water more oil than anything maybe the engine was just on its side. The spark plug cover and cam covers were both cracked so it is possible it was just maybe dropped. I E-mailed the guy to see what can be done to fix this.