YeaJimi

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x2. The gap is just an unfortunate consequence of the placement and function of the hood hinge.

Hey, I am beginning to remove the engine and trans from a 5 speed 79'. Are you interested in the long block? It has 69k and ran strong prior to taking it off the road.

Do you guys have any rubbing when opening the hood? I noticed some of you dropped the rubber strip that runs under the front of the hood.

After seeing them online, I figured what the hell. Once I received them, they were a tad bigger and gaudier than I had expected. The plexi panel was an idea I was playing with, but unfortunately the LED configuration doesn't provide a strong shape. Perhaps something like Vette eagle eyes. Originally I thought the classic mustang setup would look nice.

So I was messing around with ideas of creating some custom tail lights for my 280zx. Anyways I made a cardboard template and was arranging the lights I intended to use for the final install. Let me know what you think of the configuration of each setup. I definitely like some more than others, but I won't put my 2 cents in just yet. The idea was to use the red led lights for brake/turn signal and the clear for reverse lamps. So let me know what you think, constructive criticism please.

I've experienced something similar. My battery hold down came loose one day while driving. I know this bc while driving I lost all power and rolled to a stop on the side of the highway. The power came back upon popping my hood. Not only did my battery move, but it slid to a point where the terminal made contact with the hood. The two started to weld together, and I still have holes to prove it, lol. TL:DR - Hold downs are extremely important and rubber terminal boots are worth the investment.

What gap are you running btw?

2005 L33 (all aluminum HO 5.3L engine)w/ 45k, with everything on it - $1,000 2004 T56 out of a GTO w/ 22k - $1500

Subscribed, Nice Z's btw.

Is it rear or front sump that we need?

Hey, I just picked up a MAF from a 80' 280zx for my 79' 280zx. Before grabbing a used unit I went to autozone to check pricing for a new one. They came back w/ two different parts for my year; one for early 79' ($400) and one for late 79' ($270). I wasn't sure when my Z was made, and the prices were way too high, so I went and grabbed a used one. Long story short after installing the unit from the 80' Z my car runs very rich, 11:1-10:1ish. I was wondering if anyone has used an inline resistor (or even a variable resistor w/ a knob) to lean up the intake charge?

You can attempt what I did as well. It's not finished but you get the idea.

If you are going to make your own alternator bracket you should be able to place it where ever you'd like. Otherwise I'd say mock everything up and make sure the alternator and intake will clear your hood line. With this method there is a chance you may have needed to go with an LS based serpentine setup from either a vette or f-body anyways meaning more $$.

2x If you are saving some money and sticking with the truck accessories make sure to check out an Area 51 relocation bracket. Otherwise the pulley will be right in the way of the intake.

Update, Turns out my wideband O2 had a short and was sucking up all my voltage. Thanks for all the help guys.

Hello, I've got a 1979 daily driver 280zx. Recently when I went to crank the engine over, as usual I did not hold it long enough and it did not start. So like normal I went to start it over again. This time as I cycled the key from Off -> Acc -> On, my voltage dropped (to roughly 3-4 volts) and lights dimmed. I ended up rotating the key all the way through the cycle and at the start position the situation remained the same. From what I can gather, I have a component that gets power from the IGN wire on my tumbler, and then is having a major voltage drop, sucking up all the power. Does this sound correct? I need to track this electrical problem down and if anyone has any ideas, please share them.

Small world I actually live on Long Island. I took a look at every plug. And basically the whole plug is whiten even the ground electrode. That is what started to get me thinking. I'm trying to maximize my gas mileage and also the life of the engine. With gas at $4+ a gallon, I'd definitally like to get more than 20mpg like I currently get.

I drive my 79 280zx as a daily driver. Its got a little less than 50,000 miles on it. When I got the car, and after driving it 50 miles home, I did some routine maintence including spark plugs and fuel filter. The plugs were white, which I though would be caused by a lean condition. The after emptying the old fuel filter I notice all sorts of rust in the filter. For poopies and giggles I threw my fuel pressure guage on and took a reading. I'm seeing 33 idle and about 38-40 with a blip of the throttle. I've read the specs should be 30/35, so apparently I'm running higher. This would lead me to believe that the engine would be running rich, but the evidence from the spark plugs would suggest there is a blockage somewhere in the fuel rail creating the high on the FPR side, and a low on the injector side. I assume it is the fuel rail because all 6 plugs appear the same way. On another note I have recently replaced the FPR with another OEM unit. I replaced it after seeing my pressure numbers and noticed that the unit was making a "louder than expected" tapping sound. To be honest until I fixed my valve lash I couldn't hear anything. Long story short my new unit is still making a tapping sound. Also the new plugs look white just as the old ones did. I was kinda wishing it was just a blockage at the filter. So does anyone know anything else this could be besides a blockage?

Hey did anything helpful happen with this thread? Do we have mounts on the marked for the SBF conversion or what???

This might help out a lil bit.

Ah and the correct answer was the grounding wire from the capacitor. Thank you ladies and gentlemen.

Hey all, I was just wondering which ground cable is it that connects to the block around where the distributor gets jammed in? I've got the fsm infront of me but can't tell in the diagram which one it is. 2nd Q; Is the water temperature sensing switch's only job to turn on the injector cooling fan? I noticed the previous owner has unhooked the wiring going to the sensor and instead has permanantly grounded it.

UPDATE: After throwing the capacitor in place she lives! But then dies after coming off of start to on. haha well at least thats one problem down.

Ok so I threw some mspaint ontop of my old pic. I did have a loose yellow wire in that harness but it is not pictured. So that explains two things . I'm pretty sure there is a positve and a negative side to the condenser. The one I got from the local jy has a blue and a black ends. Ill take a look tomorrow at which type connectors they have on the wire ends. The one end that heads to the distributor looks like it just acts as a ground but I could be wrong. So it seems the one last thing I have to ask is... what is that loose blue wire from? haha you've been very helpful already. Thanks in advance.