
shupee
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Everything posted by shupee
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I have a champion aluminum radiator not sure what size the bottom neck is but it was bigger. I sprayed the inside of the hose with black paint for lube wet and when it dries it will help hold the hose on unlike wd40 or equivalent., I do remember stretching the hose on but worked great. I'll look tomorrow to see how much mine is stretched. In the house for the finale of the walking dead
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Double post
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Yep I've already got the silver that I did last year.
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I loaded my car on the rollback and spent over an hour in the parking lot at Oreillys gates 22478 and 22625 are perfect for LS swaps. I'll post pics later.
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280Z LS1 T-56 swap for tightwads the real cost
shupee replied to shupee's topic in Gen III & IV Chevy V8Z Tech Board
I guess I just thought I was thrifty sounds like you've got me beat by far -
280Z LS1 T-56 swap for tightwads the real cost
shupee replied to shupee's topic in Gen III & IV Chevy V8Z Tech Board
I had to.regroup on the motor mount/crossmember. The BRP kit placed the engine to far forward for.my taste. I'll just build my own mounts again so i can put the engine farther back. -
280Z LS1 T-56 swap for tightwads the real cost
shupee replied to shupee's topic in Gen III & IV Chevy V8Z Tech Board
oops hit send twice -
280Z LS1 T-56 swap for tightwads the real cost
shupee replied to shupee's topic in Gen III & IV Chevy V8Z Tech Board
Not yet but u can go.to their website brphotrods.com wheels are 531's 16x8 I put lowering springs and.struts so far. -
280Z LS1 T-56 swap for tightwads the real cost
shupee replied to shupee's topic in Gen III & IV Chevy V8Z Tech Board
Drive shaft is not a problem since the T-56 shares the same yoke as most GM turbo 350, 4L60E, powerglide etc. The datsun shaft is the same id/od as most GM shafts so for the cost of a $20 junkyard shaft and $40 for shortening and balancing that will be covered. The car brought $366 at the crusher today so I can subtract that from my total. -
280Z LS1 T-56 swap for tightwads the real cost
shupee replied to shupee's topic in Gen III & IV Chevy V8Z Tech Board
Yes my donor car is toast but the needed drivetrain was super nice. Listed below is all parts that I've bought to date. Sanderson headers V8RLS1--$295 ebay 3 row Champion radiator (sexie) -- $185 ebay Walbro 255 pump $109 --ebay 2 x 2.5" and 1-3.0" V band clamps-$92--ebay misc 304 SS mandrel bends for exhaust $352-- Columbia River mandrels gates 22478 lower and 22625 upper molded hoses and misc gates shrink clamps--$38 Oreillys these fit like a glove!!!! gates heater hoses w molded 90's $27-- Oreilly's 15' black Aeroquip hose and all 6an fittings needed-- $190 Hawks 3rd gen Lokar 36" universal throttle cable--$50-- Hawks 3rd gen Stainless round muffler w 3" inlet and 4.5" tapered outlet--$38--ebay I splurged on 2 things this time.On our other LS6 280 I used a 5.3 truck harness and cut and spliced for several days. It works great with no issues.I was poking around on ebay the other day and bought a pretty sexie Painless engine management harness and PCM with a Comp Cams 222-224 duration 566 lift hyd. roller cam all brand new for $750. This is really a deal, the cam alone is $350-400 all day and the pcm and harness was $1379 before the feds stopped the company that was manufacturing the PCM due to emmisions compliance. This will make for a very clean install due to the compact size of the PCM and the sexie relays for fuel pump etc. I broke down and bought a BRP hot rods engine and trans mounting kit. Looks pretty sexie and at $ 420 it's not a bad deal at all. Looks like my total spent is $5446.00 Going to haul the car and some excess junk to the crusher today so should get some $$ back from that. Here's a pic of my $1100 280Z I did add wheels and air dam -
Thought I would share this with the hopes of helping other members either save some money or hopefully address some questions I've seen on this topic. First of all the most crucial factor is finding a decent car. So many times people buy rusty projects with the hopes of saving a few dollars. SPEND A LITTLE MORE UP FRONT ON A GOOD CAR!!! The car I'm converting was on Craigslist in Columbia SC and the ad read "the only rust is on the tail pipe". Well it wasn't entirely true but it was way above average with only a few small spots around the drain plugs. Overall a very good car but no engine and I paid $1100. I have been buying/building wrecks for years and let me say that you won't "steal" a donor car for your drive train!!! at Crashed LS cars bring a war pension everywhere. I feel like I did pretty good on my donor @ $2400- a 2002 Z28 6 speed with 67,233 actual miles. With sale fees and fuel to pick up I had $2900 in the car sitting in my yard.
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here is the link to my build http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/107254-another-ls6-280-build-thread/
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Looks like you've already upgraded to the 8 rib belt set-up. Maggies don't like a 6 rib My car made 552 RWHP with LS6 TVS 1900 custom ground boost cam. Your car should be a blast to drive.
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exhaust manifold/header options
shupee replied to tuned55's topic in Gen III & IV Chevy V8Z Tech Board
You can buy the Sanderson "block hugger" headers from them or I've seen them on Ebay also. they are the same ting JCI sells. Here's a link http://www.ebay.com/itm/Sanderson-V8RLS1-Chevy-LS1-Blockhugger-Header-Set-Plain-Steel-uncoated-/200715298020?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2ebb9064e4&vxp=mtr -
Where can i get a ls1 premade harness for my z?
shupee replied to 77z280's topic in Gen III & IV Chevy V8Z Tech Board
I used a Chevrolet truck harness and computer. I get them from a friend of mine that runs a very large junk yard. $100 for the computer and harness. The truck harness is a little more time consuming than the F body type but the end result can be great if you have a little patience. -
no tunnel mods needed and the alternator mount is an old ebay piece I've had for a few years. If you look at my photobucket album you can see the mount.
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I have read several comments on the "fake" wheels. I have a set of Boze 3 pc forged pro touring wheels on my 1971 Camaro that I paid way to much $$$ for. Let me say that it's ridiculous to spend that much money on wheels for a car that you are going to drive and enjoy!!!!!!!!!! I also bought a set of the XXR 531's for my S30 but like a dummy I ordered +20 and had to send them back and I'm currently waiting for the correct wheels to arrive. Looking forward to driving the **** out of my Datsun with these wheels on it. Your car looks great!!
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Please post 2 into 1 LS exhaust pictures
shupee replied to RebekahsZ's topic in Gen III & IV Chevy V8Z Tech Board
The only time there is an issue with wrapping exhaust is if it's a "daily driver" and driven in the rain. The wrap acts like a sponge and causes rusting on the exhaust. This car won't be driven in bad weather so it will be fine. -
Please post 2 into 1 LS exhaust pictures
shupee replied to RebekahsZ's topic in Gen III & IV Chevy V8Z Tech Board
here you go tucked very good due to my patented (lol) top mount tranny mount -
Please post 2 into 1 LS exhaust pictures
shupee replied to RebekahsZ's topic in Gen III & IV Chevy V8Z Tech Board
OK here goes don't hammer me to bad, used Columbia River bends and about 20 hrs start to finish. -
Ok thought I would share our car and the progress- The car is a 1975 280 that we bought for $450- super solid factory automatic car. 1-Motor is a 2003 LS6, Callies Crank,H beam rods, Mahle pistons, thunder racing cam, CNC'd 243 heads, all studs top to bottom. Should make 410-430 whp 2- Transmission is an old school T-350 with an ATI converter with nitrous anti balloon plate 3-No Kit---used 1" dom for motor and fabbed the tranny mount as well 4-Nothing special required utilized a junkyard 5.3 harness, CTS-V pan and I built the mandrel exhaust with Columbia River bends 5-started around the 1st of June and should be running in a few more weeks. Here is the link to my photo bucket page--My link
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There is/was enough to adjust the pinion a few degrees so I'm good on my angles. I fabbed the mounts with dom tubing I had in the shop. I think they turned out OK and I'm running generic "shorty" headers that were only $199 on Ebay. Would love to have longtubes but the ones that are in the group buy won't work with the T350 auto. I'll probably build a set later when I get time. I have about 20 hrs in my mandrel exhaust but it's done as well. About 1" on the clearance and I think it's actually a CTSV pan from a 405 horse crate motor I bought.
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Wheel Show! Post your pics of you wheels
shupee replied to k3werra's topic in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis
Ryan, How much is your car lowered ??? Like the stance. Thanks -
Went to my buddies place today. They build the "Hawk" dump trailers and have all the latest and greatest CNC plasma cutting equipment. I had him draw some sexie pieces that I need for my tranny crossmember. I'll probably catch some grief by mounting my trans from the top but bear in mind that the tranny is trying to go up not down. We utilized this setup on our rockcrawlers that we built back in the day. I'll definitely have plenty of room for exhaust.
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I'm not the most computer literate person on planet earth so please bear with me on this. I have several S30's and I also have a pretty nice 1971 RS Camaro with a Magnacharged LS6 that makes 542RWHP so I'm very familiar with the gen IV platform. My first attempt will be my spare LS6 with Callies crank,H beam rods,Mahle pistons, 230 "Thunder Racing" cam and a sweet set of 243 CNC heads by Advanced Induction into 1 of my 1975 280's. I utilized the infamous search button and saw that most everyone uses the JCI stuff which is all good but I wanted to go a little different route and fab my own soooooo any criticism is welcome. This car will use a bomb proof turbo 350 with an ATI nitrous converter with the balloon plate.Just a little run around car to take to our local 1/8 mile track. I attached some pics of the engine mounts that I made last night. For my tranny mount I want to run a Chevrolet Vega tailhousing with the mount tabs on the tailhousing so I can rotate it 180* and keep everything tucked up high out of the way. Here are a few pics so far---- This is my starting point. A very solid South Carolina car that I bought for $450 Front view of the mounts bottom view of the mounts. I used the lower control arm nut/bolt to attach to the subframe so it can still be removed if needed. A triangle is the strongest way with the tubular style mount.