Drax240z

Bah, stay away from Jim Wolf. For $700US you can have an SDS, and not have to get a reprogrammed ECU each and everytime you modify things. Ian L at zcar.com has run some pretty impressive numbers with his stock computered 3.1L turbo. Check it out.

I took the liberty of writing up an overview on a buildup for this type of engine. Just try the links in my signature at the bottom. In short, 270hp is feasable with stock internals. And though I haven't actually run my engine with the SDS yet, I'd still recommend it!

You payed someone $650 for motor mounts????

270hp is obtainable. Check out the links in my signature for a basic recepie.

Yeah it should be possible to spin the impellor just by sticking a finger in the intake side of the turbo. Make sure the car is off first.

Its all about cross sectional area. Twice pipes will work fine, but you need to know the cross sectional area to compare to a single pipe. There are posts here somewhere about pipe diameters etc. Try a search.

Mike, we were just basing our wheel sizes off of Hoosier and goodyears website. They stated that for a 20x7.5x13 tire, we'd need a 13x7-13x9 wheel. We are planning on running all 4 the same size. I'll likely give you a call later today.

Looking good James. Can't wait to hear how your engine with all these mods performs.

Not datsun related. But we are trying to track down 13"x8" wheels, as light as possible for our FSAE car. The plan is to run 20x7.5x13 Hoosier slicks. I wondering if A) anyone knows someone that has some that may be willing to part with them or anyone who knows where we might find a good deal on a set.

I dunno, I think mild steel can look pretty darn good.

Well I just went with mild steel stuff.... why do you feel you need aluminum?

Well ZR8ED was running damn near a full out race NA L6 last time I heard, so I am thinking that when he says smaller than 26" diameter, thats what he means. Dude have you checked into getting custom wheels made? Lots of $$$ potentially, but at least you can get exactly what you want.

Hey Donna, sorry to hear about your problems... I can't offer much advice beyond my own experience... I've head a Centerforce Dual Friction in my car for about a month now. In all the times I've sat in the car making engine noises and double clutching, it hasn't slipped once! I believe Tim said that the CFDF was rated for around 250lb ft of torque... are you much above that?

I must say, that is one beautiful looking engine. Love that intake.

Evan you can cause very serious damage with an overfull engine. If its way too overful, you have to worry about the pistons trying to compress the oil - likely you aren't that full, and that is good. You'd know if it was. If its full enough that the crank counterweights hit the oil every time around you are going to end up with some serious foam in your crankcase, which is definately bad. The oil will lose its viscosity quite quickly when aerated like that. Thanks a ton for the heads up on the steering coupler, I just put a new one in and I don't really want to fry it! Glad to hear its idling well. Hopefully mine will be doing the same this weekend.

Since we are on the subject, tell us a bit about the mitsu turbos. Does the turbo flange only fit that size of mitsu turbo, or would a smaller turbo fit too? How do their prices or used availability compare to a T3/T04?

Hmm, a whole new dash with the center angled towards the driver and flowing into the center console would kick butt! (I really like the supra tt dash)

I know they exist somewhere out there. Keep looking. Try to track down a few L series engine builders (rebello, etc.) and ask them.

Hmm, Supra510, I think I saw pictures of your car recently. There is a guy up here in my car club that was talking about your car. (I doubt there are any more 510/surpa swaps in this area) Do you have any digitzed pictures of your install? I saw the one I think, and I really want to see more.

Ah I see. Thanks for clarifying that. I guess rather than warp, a SS flange that long would potentially crack under thermal expansion. So James, are you going to be turning out a few of these and offering them as a kit?

Looking good man! Am I seeing things, or is the pipe and turbo flange SS, and the head mating surface mild steel? Looking forwards to seeing the final results.

Whoa buddy, slow down before you hurt your dash. Start by removing the metal plate between the dash and the windshield, it has 3 phillips screws in it. From there, there are 4 bolts under that hold the dash in place up top. 2 more bolts that hold the dash at the center console. You also have to remove the floor vent controls from each side of the car, and there are 4 bolts that attach the steering column to the dash. Once you've done that, then you undo the wiring harness. A pain in the ass. That should pretty much cover it, but take your time and make sure you aren't ripping stuff apart. Also it helps if you take the steering wheel off, but its not absolutely necessary.

I've heard about this from guys in my car club, thanks for bringing it to our attention.

Plasma cutters are great and all, but don't underestimate what can be done with a well cared for oxy-acetalyne setup. Its entirely possible to get NICE quality edges with a torch, you just have to have a steady hand and a good guide. That said, plasma cutters are way faster and easier to use. Just expensive.

Yeah thats the key Clint. Every board has its share of fast cars, but how many can say they are/can be daily driven street cars? And how many can carve up the twisties at the same time as laying down sub-13 second runs? Can't wait to see you hit 10's stony!