Drax240z

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My 9/74 is a late 260z. Big bumpers, turn signals in grille area. Sometime between july and august!

Not that silly, the same way Arc welding works... After you flash yourself a few dozen times it stops hurting anyway.

Lone has covered this pretty well. One nice thing about TIG's is that its really easy to switch setups for different materials. A couple button pushes, and all you have to do is grab the rod of the right material. Whereas MIG's changing over is a bit more of a pain. TIG's can be slow though, no doubt. TIG's are more flexable... I've welded at 6amps with one before, and at 255amps! Not many other things will let you weld such a huge range of material thickness. (in the case of the 6amps I was welding SS tubing, .035wall) All that said, I bought a MIG for my only welder at home. Cheaper by far.

I am not 100% sure, but I think that all the Nissan L series engines had hardened seats from the factory. (Yeah the valve seats too! )

Its everything put together. $56 US = $80 canadian due to exchange. $12US shipping = $18. Then at the border we have to pay taxes (14%) and brokerage. Taxes + brokerage was $40 on those bolts, bringing the total to $140. I was in a hurry for them and I made the mistake of getting them sent UPS. (5 weeks later I got them, but thats another story) If sent USPS taxes and brokerage are waived for some reason.

Likely water in the distributor cap, or in the throttle position sensor. Take the cap off the distributor and wipe it dry inside. The TPS also comes apart fairly easily and just needs to be dried out.

Hmm, yes the 71 carbs were the desireable Su's. I'm not sure about this, but depending on the head on your 71, and the pistons on the 83, I think the combonation of the two would be good. Likely your 71 has the E31 head, and the 83 had flat top pistons. All you really have to do is get larger valves put in the E31, and slap them together. I believe you'll end up at about 9.8:1 compression. I'm not sure what the 2+2 had for a tranny or diff, but the 5 speed/3.90:1 combo into 240z's is said to be a really nice upgrade in both quickness and cruising. I think you could make a nice driver out of the 240z, and save the northstar for the deathstar.

Yup exactly what I did. I put everything together this morning and it seems to line up very well. I'm not sure yet if the hall sensor is close enough to the magnets to sense it, but its slotted, so... Trying to get power to the car right now. Something wacky with my alternator wiring.

Well we can get it, but its not worth it. The JTR manual which listed at Summit for $29.95US, ended up costing me $89 by the time it got to me. $56 in bolts from MSA were $140 by the time they got to me. You get the idea.

Well I just did my magnets and hall sensor mount tonight. As best as I can tell mine ended up at 0, 119.75, and 240.0. 0 looks like its exactly 80 degrees from the line of the hall sensor... where it should be. My block had some nice threaded holes in the side where the AC compressor used to mount, that worked very well for a hall sensor bracket. Simplicity at its best, just a 8" long piece of 1" flatbar bent at 90 degrees. I'd love to fire up tomorrow... Lets hope.

You know, I really try to be open minded, and I love damn near every modified Z car I've seen, but for some odd reason the whole concept of this bothers me. Like webwalker said, I guess everyone draws the line somewhere.

Well a buddy of mine has a BMW inline 6 with true duals. (dual 3 cylinder exhaust manifolds) I must say, it sounds DAMN sweet on an inline 6. Worth it just for that IMHO.

Andy, you have a gift for titles. LMAO.

Myron. Big flares. Coil Overs. Spacers. Make em fit!!!!! [ June 23, 2001: Message edited by: Drax240z ]

I think VDO has some nice looking gauges actually. I really wanted to go with their black face/white lettering 2 5/8" mechanicals.... But no chance in hell I could find them around here. I ended up with autometer mechanical... though I can't comment on their accuracy... yet.

Are we talking british gallons or US gallons?

I think lone hit it on the head, that the inherant weakness of any inline 6 engine is simply the crank length. The causes more flex, and lowers the 'safe' redline lower than you might see from other designs. I'm wondering how V12's rev so high, I would think that they would see as much or more crank flex as a inline 6. Gotta love the balance of both engines though!

Thats the 2nd time I've heard that about the Saab 9000 intercooler. Anyone have ideas of core size or pressure drop on those ones?

My dad's been helping me out whenever he can too. Now I have a 74 260z daily driver while I work on the 72, and its going to Dad when mine is done. I may try to convince him he needs a V8 conversion.

Hey bud. I got around 25mpg on the highway in my 240z's. I don't know exactly what I got around town, I would guess 19-20mpg. The 240z is a fair bit lighter than the 280z though, so maybe that accounts for some of the difference.

Yeah, what 240Z turbo said. That's what I've read anyway.

Damn, you guys and your SDS sucess stories! The more I read of them, the more excited I get that mine might fire the first time too!

Nigel, I mounted my SDS ECU in the exact same spot, but on the passanger side. The main wiring harness passes through right there, and you can fit all the SDS connectors through that hole without any cutting. This is on a 72.

Wow, someone looked at my page. Honestly I would say anything is repairable. The question is whether its worth the time and money to repair, over just starting fresh with a clean shell. I chose to start with the "rust-freeist" car I could find, and part out the rustier car I had. Looking back, I think it was a good move. Floor pans by themselves shouldn't be that hard or expensive to replace. Front frame rails are a heck of a lot more work, because of the importance of getting them perfectly parallel, and in all the right places. If you were going with a fully adjustable suspension design you could get away with being less exact on the front rails, but with the stock Z design, there is almost ZERO adjustability, so you must be perfect. I was quoted 16 hours labour for each of the front rails from a very good body shop. They told me when they were done I wouldn't know the difference from stock by looking at it, and neither would anyone else. They were also willing to throw a guarentee behind their work. Too rich for my blood though. Personally I would buy a wire feed welder, and do the floorpans myself, and learn. Then after you should have a better idea whether you are up to the task of doing the rails or not.