Drax240z

You have the stock 280zx fuel pump with a carb'd chevy 350? Since the stock 280zx had efi, you are using a high pressure fuel pump in an application where you should have a low pressure pump. What fuel pressure regulator are you using?

I'm not sure how much power you need for your solonoids, it is probably a fair bit. I would run a line right to the starter for posative, and a decent line to the chassis for ground. If you could find out how much power these units draw that would be a big help... but I'd suggest 12ga wire just to be on the safe side.

Its a great idea, I think in time you'll see a few sticky posts in each forum, answering the basic questions that seem to be asked a lot. Just leave a link to the posts you think should be stickied, and perhaps the moderator of the forum can take care of it then.

Please choose just 1 forum to post in.

http://www.sdsefi.com

Congrats, glad it is more or less a happy ending!

Well when they dyno your car, they need to make it work, ie: simulate the load that it would see on the road if it was actually driving and moving its own mass. So they load it up that way. I'm confused I think. I thought you meant that there was a load on the rollers when it should have been freewheeling. But now I suspect you were asking why there was a load put on the rollers. Yeah, see above paragraph.

Can one of you guys clarify what the dual port actuator does for me? As far as I can tell, you run 2 vacuum lines, one to each side of the diaphragm. One line you put a restrictor in, the other you leave at straight manifold pressure. This I assume would help keep the WG closed until the pressure differential was higher than if you just used a 1 port actuator, aiding spool-up by keeping the WG closed to say, 10 psi before it starts creeping open. (?) Would this be akin to raising the spring rate on the opposite side of the diaphragm? I suspect this is how it works and why, just want to confirm it.

Adam, you can get a competant machine shop to mount the magnets and sensor. Its really a piece of cake. No drilling the block is necessary, just 3 small holes in the balancer/front pulley. Don't fret, it's not as bad as you think! Oh, and you'd have been better off posting this in the EFI forum anyway, though the chevy forum might get the most traffic, I don't think any of these V8 guys are running the SDS.

Hmm, Garrett? How'd you sneak that one by the wife? Congrats man. Can't wait to see your engine supporting twin Garretts and 8lbs of boost.

Cool Brad. I'd have expected higher numbers at 13psi too, but I know nothing about RB's really. Sounds like there is lots of power still available through tuning if that was at 10:1. As for load, is your parking brake stuck on or something? I assume that when they say the rollers aren't freewheeling, they mean on deceleration, and that would mean that your car was slowing them down at a higher rate that normal... brakes applied, etc would cause that... some sort of extra rolling resistance. If that were the case, your power number would be low as well.

If you want light, the how about a silver or a gray? Some nice silver Z's out there, though its very "sleeperish" to go with light colours... most people on this site realize they don't have a chance of being taken too seriously as a sleeper with the exhaust rumble, so they go for something a bit more wild. A bit more wild... fly yellow, kawasaki green. Lots of light colours you can use that look good on a Z. Even a light metallic silver/blue is a stock colour for the 280z, and while not my personal choice, it doesn't look too bad on these cars.

I think that statement was meant in a direct HP comparison. A 200hp turbo motor vs. a 200hp NA motor.

SDS.... http://www.sdsefi.com. Its small and nicely done.

Did you keep the same TPS sensor when you switched TB's? There are 2 types, and the Z's used the switch type, the procedure for checking it is in the haynes manual. Also, if you don't put it back on correctly, you could run into problems. Best bet is to start there, since that is what you messed around with when swapping TB's.

Make sure the part is free from oils/grease first too. Use some polish remover or similar. (used on cars before paint job is applied to remove oils from handprints, old wax, etc.)

Go to Sears, Mac Tools, Snap On, etc. and ask for some "Jet drills". You can get a set of really small bits that are meant to re-drill carb jets.

Nothing aux, I'm just being droll.

It was a bit out of date. I shudder at some of the generalizations I made when I wrote this 3 years ago, but left most of it. (and deleted the worst of it) It shouldn't be taken as gospel, but it should get some newer guys on track.

It was a bit out of date. I shudder at some of the generalizations I made when I wrote this 3 years ago, but left most of it. (and deleted the worst of it) It shouldn't be taken as gospel, but it should get some newer guys on track.

Yup, corrosion is the biggy. Especially with the heat cycling. You can get away with uncoated mild steel, I'd just go a little thicker than if I used stainless.

THe opening in the intake is smaller than the plenum, so there is lots of room to open it up for a larger TB.

Has anyone found a reasonable source for T3 outlet flanges? Preferrably 304 stainless steel... I guess I could measure one out and have it CNC'd but if someone has done a large run its probably going to be cheaper...

So in a 500lbs lighter 240z... I need a G-tech!

I've always used RTV for diffs, with nary a problem. But don't listen to that auxilary guy, use the blue stuff.