Drax240z

Did you put 280z springs in a 240z? I'd imagine that is what happened.

Ah Scottie comes through again. To me that looks like the cleanest mounting position. Sweetness.

Another thing to think about: Out of 5000 members, slightly more than half actually post. There are a lot of people just reading!

thats what I was thinking too... if the pushrod is too far out you might be dragging the brakes when driving, and it wouldn't take much additional pedal pressure to really lock them up. I wish I had the same problem to be honest.

Yeha Kenny, I'd like to see some pictures of your setup. For those of you running a straight fuel rail, what have you done about pressure regulator relocation? Any ideas to incorporate it so that it doesn't look like an afterthought? I don't have any great desire to buy any other type of FPR, as the nissan one will do the job for me, so looking for other options for mounting to clean up the engine bay a bit. Went to a 700 car, car show yesterday, and got waay too many ideas.

Ha! I love those old straight 6 trucks, thats awesome. Long live the inline 6! :D PS: That Z looked pretty serious on the launch tho.

Just got 6 supra turbo 440cc/min injectors sweet. Has anyone used these injectors before on an L series intake, and can tell me if the injector ports have to be redrilled to accept the O-ring? Any tips from someone that has done it would be appreciated. Planning on a new fuel rail, and a much nicer looking intake to swap on at the same time. (I'm going to get a 2nd intake and clean it up much better than the current one before swapping) Getting there. 3" exhaust is high on the list of upcoming mods, as is the 3.54 R200 I have in the garage.

Actually I don't think I'll edit it at all, and just let people read the whole thread. For those newbies: Listen to Scottie-GNZ. Very much of what I wrote is directly related to his experience with the L28 turbo, and his knack at finding affordable, and very effective solutions and upgrades. Big kudos to Scottie, which I should have added in my origional post.

Actually I don't think I'll edit it at all, and just let people read the whole thread. For those newbies: Listen to Scottie-GNZ. Very much of what I wrote is directly related to his experience with the L28 turbo, and his knack at finding affordable, and very effective solutions and upgrades. Big kudos to Scottie, which I should have added in my origional post.

Just a note here to the general Hybridz public. All the moderators and admins are on a short fuse these days, we seem to be innundated with idiotic posts on this site in the past month or two. We've had to ban some people lately as well, as they are ignoring our warnings. I think we're all on the same page, and at this point we aren't pissing around with warnings, we're just banning people who demonstate they have nothing constructive to add to the site. The rules are posted and are quite clear, so any obvious or deliberate deviation from these rules will be met with an iron fist. Some may call us "commies" but we're simply trying to protect our wonderful site, and keep it from degenerating like many other forums on the internet. If you don't like it, see ya. I suggest anyone in doubt as to what is allowed or not, read the following post: http://www.hybridz.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=24343 Thank you.

Michael, there are fixed focal length digitals out there... the cheap ones. Yo, don't make the mistake of thinking more pixels is going to give you a better picture. It will give you a bigger picture, one better for enlarging perhaps, but I'd much rather have a fast lens than an extra megapixal or two. The Sony DSC-F717 is a great example of this. It kicks butt on its competition (G3, G5, 5700, etc) for picture quality because of its lens. (F2.0-F3.0) This means better low light shooting (where the F717 excells I might add), clearer action shots, and overall more flexability because you can add a telephoto lens/filters and still have a reasonably fast lens. More megapixals will not help here. To me the DSC-F717 is the best all around camera on the market right now, when considering cost, clarity and functions. The new announcements from Fuji for the fall really look like they are ready to challange though. Canon knocked off something like $500 off the 6D price with the release of the 10D... Pretty sweet digital SLR for as low as $1299 US. Of course lenses are going to set you back that much again.

My lack of experience leads me to think that the addition of a chin splitter could dangerously upset the balance of the car at highway speeds. However I know Datto (where is that guy anyway?) added one to his S30 without rear aero treatment... I'd ask him how it changed the car first. Unless of course the reason he isn't posting is because of massive oversteer at 100mph. I'm not saying don't do it, I'm just saying go easy and feel it out before you "get on it".

Hmm, sounds like timing to me.

Funny, I've got "an investor" wanting me to open a shop for him. I want to get some more experience first though... I was thinking 5 years or so away. Maybe I should bite the bullet and go for it now.

Yes you need to hook it up to the intake. When the pressure is greater at the BOV opening than it is in your intake, (ie: your throttle plate is just closed) then it will open. It will still make noises if you are boosting and leave the vacuum line off, as the pressure in the pipe is greater than the atmospheric pressure... It won't work very well without a vacuum signal though. Also, since you are using an AFM, you have to plumb the air that the BOV vents off back into the intake system at some point or you'll have some issues with running rich.

I'm in the same boat, I am not running one. Yet. I also am taking it fairly easy on the car. No serious racing for me until I have one...

OK guys, right up front I'm not asking for someone to find me a job. I'm in the process of job hunting, with little luck so far. The jobs I've applied for have been in the following areas: Formula 3000 (England) - Bad timing, between seasons is better, and I'd have to be over there to get a job. CART Toyota Atlantic (US/Can) - Bad timing since its mid season. Got very close here with a couple teams, but nothing in the end. Cosworth, Mclaren, etc (England) - Don't call us, we'll call you, letters. Custom Turbo shops (Canada) - "We'll be hiring in a couple months, and looking for someone with your skills" This is probably about 40 resume's & cover letters so far. I'd prefer to stay in Canada, but will relocate to the US, England, (or NZ, Australia, etc.) for the RIGHT job. This job would be one that takes advantage of my mechanical engineering degree, while still allowing me to work hands-on in some regard. I have fairly extensive machining and fabrication experience, including TIG welding Ti, SS, Al, etc. I've been avoiding California jobs like the plague based on what I've read on this board... Most car nuts seem to be trying to leave CA because of the restrictions. Please inform me if I am misguided in this thinking...? My full resume can be downloaded here: http://www.members.shaw.ca/drax77/CV%20-%20Richard%20Lewis.pdf Comments, and suggestions on its content and organization are very welcome. Any leads, businesses, contacts, ideas you guys want to share is appreciated. I'll do the leg work and sell myself.

Egads, that is a lot of change.... Is that for the whole bike, or just the engine? The more I think about it, the more I want to build another small displacement, open wheeled race car... anyone want to fund me?

Lookin great Brad, any shots of the interior to share?

Check this out John: http://home.mira.net/~iwd/ http://www.22000rpm.com/ 990cc V8 - 4 stroke Cylinders 8 Redline 20,600rpm Power 165kW (220hp) Engine width 330mm ~300mm Engine mass 52kg "The engine revs and power stated above are quite conservative - with ongoing development it is not unreasonable to expect 22,000 rpm and 180kW (240 hp) from a short stroke 990cc V8."

Keep at it man, you'll iron it out. As for mounting the MSD, I wish I had done this: Remove the windshield cowling and mount it under there near the wiper arms. Put the cowling back on and its totally hidden.

My only concern with what you have there James is the ridge between the valves, be careful about going too thin with it, so it doesn't create a hot spot. What are your goals with the CC mods? Better flow in/out, higher CR, and higher detonation resistance? Or am I missing something else too? Edit: meant higher CR, not lower CR.

I did a search for "diff strap" in the drivetrain forum, and I got 100 threads that mentioned it. I KNOW there are pictures in some of those. Am I pointing out the obvious? "do a search" Edit: Added the following links: http://www.hybridz.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=8677&highlight=diff+strap http://www.hybridz.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=21219&highlight=diff+strap http://www.hybridz.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=22198&highlight=diff+strap

They built 4 engines actually. I believe many components are from a pair of kawasaki 250cc engines. The car didn't run at the competition, due to a bit of a disagreement over rules interpretation. (it uses a remote starter) We raced WWU at a washington state autocross, but they brought out one of their older cars. As far as I know, the car with this engine installed is not run, and is now a show piece. The engine does run though! What a great project that would have been to be involved with.

Is this your first Z? Congrats on the find either way. Post up some pictures when you can.