Drax240z

Running an unheated sensor... good call on that. The tuning I've done has been based on the movement of the mixture knob, and finding the happy point, not off the mixture meter. I suppose if I go for a hard drive, and then tune in the driveway with the O2 sensor still hot, that would better. Fuel pressure is stock, through a stock L28 FPR. Stock turbo injectors... and I am sure they are actually turbo injectors since I pulled the engine and they haven't left me. Hmm. Can't come up with anything that might contribute to my numbers being so much less off the top of my head. Rechecked my Magnet position and moved it 2 degrees. So add +2 to all my RPM Ign values now. (starting at 20* and ramping to 38* at 3250) The SDS came with 10* idle programmed in and it was pretty gutless at that! Hmm Brad, I don't know the answer to your question. Though this is the way SDS shows them in their manual for every setup, and what I've learded from the SDS forum as well. What do you mean your injector value is 62? You mean RPM Fuel at idle? Posting an updated map now too: (standard disclaimers apply if anyone thinks to copy it for their setup)

Oops, a few oddities that I sorted out today might answer a few questions. Map limit is set to 8.86 right now, I have no idea why I had 23 written in. The fractional values are simply rounded off when I punch them in to the controller... I just used a formula in excel to inperpolate between 2 points and the increment wasn't a whole number. I realize now that I should have left the MAP FUEL values as they were, but I have them recorded so I can always switch back. (which I think I should do) Strange with the RPM fuel... I am pegged at max rich on my mixture meter at idle, even with the 75-90 range. (Granted with a narrowband O2 sensor) Idles like a champ too. Maybe the modified MAP Fuel values are compensating for the lower RPM fuel values. In essence: I should probably go back to preprogrammed MAP fuel values, and up my RPM fuel values. Thanks for the comments Nigel! One last thing, do you recall what you ran for ACC settings? Fiddling in the driveway today I ended up at Acc sense 4, Acc Lo 50, Acc high 25, as those seemed to work at idle with no load.

Well you are right, there is an optimum pressure for each tire, and it is probably a range of about 10psi. This optimum range is when the tire sits flat on the pavement. This is best measured on a hot tire with a pyrometer. Tires will lose grip faster as you lower the pressure from their optimum range, than they will by raising them the same amount from their optimum range. Lower pressures lead to higher slip angles, and more deformation as well. I don't agree. Lower contact pressure between the rubber and the road increases the effective "friction coefficient" by increasing the tire contact patch. (to a point) The reason I put friction coefficient in quotations is because it really isn't the correct term, as the grip of the tire is more due to the deformation of the rubber into the pavement, and the associated shear resistance of the rubber. (a cogging effect of the tire with the road) I guess my point is that lowering your front pressure may or may not help. It depends where you are allready relative to the max grip. You might solve your oversteer problem by losing overall front grip, and then the car becomes balanced, but slower. Really, the best way to tune this is with a pyrometer/thermometer after a hot lap, and its what I recommed doing if you want to dial in the tire pressure. However, loosening the rear sway bar is much simpler and predictible.

Ok, so hook up your timing light and get a buddy to drive. As he floors it, pop the hood, climb up front, and check out how much the timing is moving under boost. If you aren't too dexterous, you could use a skateboard or roller blades beside the car. Seriously... I agree with the fuel system diagnosis... I'd check filter and pump voltage.

Nope he means 24ft. Hey scott, are you heading out to mission raceway? Do they just have open track on Friday nights, or is their other times as well? Gonna have to get my Z out to the track sometime...

Thats where it is... Anyone ever mapped one out? I't would be an interesting feature to add sometime.

Greetings and welcome. I just want to point out that we are pretty open when it comes to any swap into any car... but I have to ask why the KA24? Is it just because it is fuel injected? There is a very good reason that people go with the SR20DET, because it is a proven performer capable of big power numbers. The KA24 isn't so proven. If you want a swap to EFI, then you should just buy a 75-83 280z or 280zx, since they came with factory fuel injection. If you want more power potential and something that bolts in, look at a 280zx turbo engine, from 81-83. (yes its fuel injected too) One final note, is that the round top hitachi SU carbs really aren't bad at all. If you want to autocross, I'd get a 70-73 240z (they are way lighter), and spend your money on suspension upgrades. $2k isn't a ton of money to work with, but if you have a running Z with round top SU's, then $2k can get you springs, shocks, and brakes, maybe even wheel and tires if you get a few good deals. These items will make you faster in autocross than an engine swap will.

OK, so I looked in all the manuals, and in the oldest one, for the EM-2 system, I found the following information: (thanks Brad for sending me back that way) Acceleration Pump (ACC PUMP) This function adds to the primary injector pulse width when the throttle is rapidly opened. There are 3 adjustments to make for the acceleration pump. Two adjustments are made with the programmer and the other one is done with the trimmer potentiometer in the ECU accessed through the ACC hole in the top cover. (This is no longer the case on newer systems) The ACCPUMP LO RPM value controls action from 0 to 1875 rpm. The ACCPUMP HI RPM setting controls action above 1875 rpm. Both parameters must have a proper value entered for proper engine response. To set this parameter properly, snap the throttle open quickly. If the engine hesitates, change the value. If the hesitation is worse, you have changed the value the wrong way. Repeat this procedure on both HI and LO settings until engine response is acceptable. The trim pot in the ECU controls the sensitivity to slow throttle movements. This control is very important just out of the idle range. Set this control by opening the throttle slowly from the idle position. Adjust for the smoothest possible acceleration. The trim pot is normally between 11 and 2 o'clock. Do not turn the trim pot fully clockwise as this causes extreme sensitivity of the circuit to randomly dump fuel into the engine resulting in rough running. (I assume this setting is the ACC Sense setting that can be programmed on the fly now) Acc pump values are generally between 10 and 50 on most applications. If changing the values will not make the engine respond properly, check to make sure that the TPS is hooked up correctly. You can check for proper pump operation by first selecting GAUGE 2 mode. With an ACCPUMP LO RPM value of 10 entered, you should see the AP number increase from 0 to a higher number when the throttle is rapidly opened, then as the throttle movement stops, the number should quickly return to 0. The AP number should always be 0 when the throttle is not moving. If not, it indicates an intermittent connection or a damaged TPS.

AFAIK Lone, Scarp and Ron all sold their Z's...

OK, everyone with maps they want to share, please post! I found a bit of info from scotties old setup, enough to get me going anyway. The car still has some issues, I think most are related to the ACC ("accelerator pump") setttings. Acc Sense, Acc Lo RPM, Acc Hi RPM. I've searched high and low, and can't find any decent definition on what these settings do. Can anyone with SDS experience please elaborate on them a bit? I assume ACC Sense is the sensativity. I've read to keep this value low, while ACC Lo RPM in the 12-25 range, and ACC Hi RPM in the 1/3-1/2 of ACC Lo RPM value. What I'd really like is to know how they work so I can figure it out as I go. Anyway, here is my current map. Comments are welcome. (L28, EM-3E, Stock turbo, Stock injectors, 2 bar map, 60mm TB, 2.5" exhaust, NPR intercooler)

Looking great... Can't wait to see if it performs as well as it looks!

I should note that it isn't too hard to get an illegal version of solidworks on most file sharing programs. I don't encourage it, but if you aren't making money by using their product I'm of the opinion that its just a "trial".

you crack me up Dan!

Heh, this story sucks. My Z went for its first drive today in...3? years. Lots of mods done since that last drive, turbo engine,etc. The worst part: I didn't get to drive it! I need to get a safety inspection done before I can insure the car, and in order to pass inspection I need a crack and chip free windshield. So it is off to the glass place today, they used their repair plates and drove it off. (Heh, set the rev limiter to 3250 tho) Followed the car up there in my truck... So the car has been for its first drive, but I wasn't even in it. I guess I miss the second one too! (I can't drive the car with their repair plates for insurance reasons) I definately need to do some tuning though, the thing is rich all over the place, and was blowing quite a bit of black. Then again, engine is breaking in as well, so it might be a bit of oil from the rings seating, etc. Gassed the guy driving it as well since I forgot the hatch rubber grommets. (oops!) Almost there.......

I have heard tons of good stuff (and nothing bad!) about the ZT carbs and not much at all on the MSA ones... I'd certainly go ZT first if it was my money.

Easiest to use, cheap and powerful... SolidWorks. By cheap I mean only a few thousand dollars a seat. However, it will take you a while before you are into compound curves, etc. There are some examples in the project pages of my website if you are interested.

Just when I thought I had seen it all...

Well usually I hit the wreckers. There are quite a few Z's in canada, most have rusted out and are in the wreckers. Also, its fairly common out west to see parts cars for sale, or cars in someones field, etc. There are enough cars on Vancouver Island at this point that I know of, through my car club and others, that parts aren't too hard to find. PEI may not have a similar infastructure for Z cars, but I'll bet getting parts out of Ontario, Quebec, etc. is very possible. I'd try to track down some Z car clubs in neighbouring provinces and start there.

Well lowering your front tire pressure will have the opposite effect to what you are looking for. Try without the rear bar and see. If that creates too much understeer, you may be able to make the rear bar adjustable. Also have you checked your tire wear/rear toe/etc. since you've lowered the car and put bigger wheels/tires on it? It might be worthwhile to measure your toe and see where you are. If you are toed out in the rear, that would be an issue... as would too much negative camber if you've lowered a lot. I've also noticed that when semi-trailing arm cars start to wear out their rear bushings, they really start to pile up on negative camber. Anyway, take some measurements and then go from there...

If you want a good driveshaft made, try SWAT out in Surrey. The guy there is a wizard... he's got a pretty wicked toyota truck out there too. 2.8L V6, supercharged, propane in the area of 400hp he says. Its neat to see. (as he offroads it yet it is close to show quality at the same time)

Don't feel bad about posting something like this, its just a good way to start a conversation.

Thanks guys. Still most definately a work in progress, but I am trying to make things clean. The final colour will match the paint in the engine bay, a medium metallic blue. A new windshield going in tomorrow!

The 45amp ones in the stock 240's are pretty lame too...

Sweet ride! Though I can't for the life of me figure out why you'd leave the stock fan on there 12" away from the rad and with an electric fan as well...

Very clean install... I see you have an eye for photography as well. What are your side marker lights off of? I've seen similar before off a hyundai but I was hoping for more specific info.