5 Star Rising

My car was originally blue, I scraped alittle paint off the inside of the rear hatch and found that it was green in color, so this hatch is off a later model Z. I will be looking to buy a series one hatch before I paint the car down the road. I'm currently dealing with some other issues with starting the car now. The car has a aftermarket electric fuel pump on it but can't get it started and keep it running. I put a few gallons of gas in the tank. And I have fuel going to both carbs but it just keeps turning over, if you spray starting fluid into the carbs the car will fire right up but then die out once the starting fluid burns off, I'm wondering if I have some carb issues with the float, needle and seat, clogging or a hole in a gasket. Also the drivers door looks like it fits wierd or the hinges are bent, it is a Orange door on the inside, I heard only certain year doors are interchangeable. Any way,I will be reading other forum topics about these issues here when I get some more time , I know this post was about the Hatch.

Your 12/70 has holes in the steering wheel? My 12/70 has solid spokes.. Weird

Yes me too on the 5 speed. Good to know!

Yes I would like to restore it back to stock or atleast close. It does have a 5 speed tranny so I believe the numbers matching gear box is long gone, but a factory look with modern drivability would be more what I'm shooting for. Just got done with a few car shows with my 71 Chevelle and now it's time to take the car cover off this 240 and start digging in alittle deeper on what I actually got and need to get it looking and driving great again. I will definitely check out that link Porsch thanks.

I had a feeling someone may have swapped the hatch out in the past. I was told from the Tow yard that "Tweakers" owned this car before. They got arrested and the car was towed. The cops found meth and needles in the car. There is also some funny wiring jobs going on and black duct tape all over the body, apparently covering up any paint chips where you can see the original blue underneath haha. Fortunately it still has the original solid spoke steering wheel and the compartments behind the seats are intact with factory components. The car also came with a set of Red Recaro Racing seats, in which I might sell or trade for a series 1 hatch and factory 240 seats.

Hello, this is my first post in a few years, sold my Zs, but I had to get another Z. This will be my 9th Z in the last 10 years.. I scored a running driving 1971 series 1 240z from a tow yard for $500 a few weeks ago, Couldnt believe it! Made 12/1970 stamped on door jam plate. My question is do all series 1s have the vented rear hatch? Mine does not. I'm wondering if someone swapped out the hatch in the past. Also there is no round vent holes in the body on the sides like the 280s. Did the series 1 just have 2 small emblem holes for an emblem or did somebody bondo the entire vent cavities? Because mine is completely smooth, no sign of a emblem.

Thanks Rossman, Im going to pull the tank out a second time and try to clean it again. The first time I used a pressure washer and soap and also left the garden hose in it flushing for about an hour, but I have a feeling there is just most rust or old liner coming apart, had a similar problem with a 240z in the past, but it wasnt as dependent on fuel pressure as this fuel injected 280, but i remember I had a glass see thru fuel filter on it and I had to clean it out every 20 miles even after I cleaned out the tank, I think i might just have to take it to a radiator shop and have them boil it out.. I tried leaving the gas cap off and it still lost fuel pressure and died out..

Ok either my tank is plugged or I have serious vacuum lock going on. When the engine was cold, I installed a FP guage and started the car, the pressure went to about 40psi and then settled at around 35psi while running.. After about 3-5 minutes of running you can see the fuel pressure start falling to about 12psi and then the motor will start stumbling and die out. For the heck of it I swapped out the fuel pressure regulator with another one from my 280 parts car and it made no difference. I then went to the back of the car and checked the fuel pump. I found that the fuel feed line that goes into the fuel pump looked like it was collapsed, I took off the hose clamp and pulled off the hose to find not a drop of fuel in the line. I have 10 gallons of gas in the tank. Sounds clogged to me, what do you think? I took some compressed air and blew into the metal fuel outlet at the tank, then it started spraying fuel out but stopped after about 30 seconds and turned into just a thin flow that was almost a drip... A few questions: is there like a feed pick-up inside the bottom of the tank that gets clogged alot on these cars? Could I have some sort of vacuum issue that won't let the fuel come out? If I was to swap hoses and install the fuel feed line onto the recirc line outlet would it work? The recirc line flows a steady stream of fuel out but I dont know how far down in the tank that recirc lines goes, i would hate to run out of gas at a half tank..

Thanks Newzed, I think I have a fuel injection kit some where with a gauge, its been a while since I had to use it. So could I put the pressure guage after the fuel filter and before the fuel rail? like in between? Or does in need to be some where else? Also I did the best I could with cleaning out the gas tank with my pressure washer, but I have a feeling there might be more rust and old liner breaking off in the tank and getting clogged some where... Kind of low on funds at the moment, so I was putting off having the tank cleaned a relined at a shop.. Ever heard of the fuel Dampner getting clogged? Gonna do some more investigating tomorrow..

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Ok well today I was getting ready to pull out my injectors but tried a few other things first.. The injector connectors and harness wiring is so brittle that I dont want to create other problems before I make sure that it is nessesary. Honestly I am not sure what did it, but I cleaned and wiggled multiple connections at sensors and harness plugs and used some WD40 to clean up green corrosion. I also pulled back the idle screw and the car started up and seemed to idle ok, I let it run at idle for about 25 minutes but it still had a miss when it was reved up. I used a screw driver to listen to each injector as it idled and all but 2 were clicking loudly. I could here engine noise through the 2 that were not clicking but definatley no distinct clicking like the others. I checked the connections on those 2 and they seemed to be ok, I thought maybe by chance the 2 injectors were working but just not as loud as the others so I got brave and took the car for a spin on a country road. It didnt seem to have full power like it was still missing (probably those 2 injectors) I got about a half mile down the road and I was getting ready to turn around and come home and the car died out and would not start, luckly I brought a flash light and tools and starting fluid.. The car would just turn over and not fire at all, I sprayed starting fluid into the intake and the car started for a few seconds telling me there is no fuel, I unpluged the main fuel feed line at the fuel rail and of course it was under presure so I had a rag, but it seemed as if more air than fuel sprayed out when the pressure was released. I then left the line unhooked and while shining my flash light on the fuel line I cranked the engine repeatedly and not a drop of fuel came out, thats when i said a few cuss words lol. Stranded on the road, I was running out of options, so I blew into the fuel line a few times to hopefully unclog it and then went and cranked the engine. Fuel started pouring out hard and steady again. I hooked the fuel line back up and the car started right up, I was able to limp it home before it died out again. Im wondering if I have a couple different problems? Clogged line and a couple of plugged injectors.. also could be a loose connection on one of those connectors I cleaned that got moved around when I drove the car... Frustrating, but I got it running so Im getting closer lol

I have a 78 280z that I bought a while back, it had been sitting for about 6 years. Im trying to get it back on the road. So far I have done a tune up on the car... I was able to get the car to run for a bit by spraying starting fluid in the Throttle body or jumping the cold start injector. Found that my gas tank was full of debri, so I drained it, pulled it and flushed it out with water and then used a pressure washer with soap, i then rinsed it out and dried it completely with compressed air. Filled it with 10 gallons of fresh gas, and replaced the fuel filter. I got it to start for a little while with out starting fluid, it ran like crap for 5 minutes almost like it was missing or not running on all 6.. It ran in a timing of 1234,1234,1234,1234 kinda shaking. Then it died, and doesnt want to restart.. Im wondering if more crap from the tank broke away and clogged up the line or filter. A few questions: Do you think my tank is still glogging up the fuel lines or filter? "Had a 240 that did that to me once" Is it best to take my tank to a shop and have it relined? How much does it usaully cost? Im just getting started on this project... I do have the XenonS30 manuals on my car, but I was hoping it could be something simple. Gonna look at it again tmw, and check the AFM, Thermo swith, main fuel injection relay, ECU.. I pulled the main feed fuel line off the fuel rail and jumped the fuel pump. Fuel pours out into a container in a steady thick stream how ever one time it had a little gargle in it and then became a solid stream again. How do I check the fuel pressure? Where would I install the a guage on these cars? Should it be around 35psi? I have another 280z complete parts car incase I need parts. Thanks

Well been busy with other things but I finally got around to messin with this project again yesterday. I pulled up the FSM (thanks for that) and Im still having trouble pinpointing the problem.. I know that when I turn on ignition I do not have power going to either of the injector pins of the injector harnesses, and when cranking the motor I still do not get power to the injector harnesses. I swapped out the main fuel injection relay and still nothing. I do how ever have power going to a few of the spade terminals on the relay but what ever correct spade/wire that feeds the injectors never gets power.. I tried 2 other AFM's and another ECU from my other cars and no luck. Could there be a bad sensor or other relay that controls power to the injectors? Also either of the pins on the injector harness plug are grounded.. There is no continuity to ground on either, should there be? Thanks

Thanks.. yeah i have been out of the Z game for a minute. Is there a link to a FSM online that you know of??? Got 2 acres and 10 cars... (4) 280Z's (2) 240Z's (2) 97 turbo eclipses gst and gsx (1)71 Chevelle (1) 98 Chevy 3500 Dually and trailer (1) 2010 VW jetta for the wife lol... Your right i did call them MAFs lol my bad.. Any how I need to figure out if its a ground issue, I know I have had other ground issues though out the frame of the car but I only spent a small amount of time on this project so far.. Rob

Have a 78 280Z that I just got. I bought it not running.. The car has been sitting for 4 years. Trying to get it started. So far I have drained the fuel tank and replaced a broken electric fuel pump. I have fuel pressure going into the fuel rail now but it wont start.. I can get the car to start for a few seconds by spraying starting fluid in the throttle body or by jumping the cold start injector. Any how I have no voltage going to the injectors, I replaced the ECU with a working unit out of one my other 280Z's (I have 4 of them) I also swapped out 2 differert MAF's and still no luck.. What other components could be stopping the voltage from going to the injectors? Temp sensor? Relay? Any one run into this problem before?

well you can bypass the brake light switch very easily to see if thats your problem. My problem is im not getting power to my turn signal switch on the columb. Its an intermittant problem sometimes all of the sudden the turn signals will start working and then shut off. Im wondering if its a bad circuit running though a relay down by the pass kick panel or harness connection. This sucks lol

Well I got the car running ok from a cold start. After adjusting them alot It helped the car start and idle. I noticed the eng rpm will raise when I spray carb cleaner on or near where the throttle linkage rod enters the side of the carb. This happens on both carbs... This is my first time dealing with these round top carbs.. There is still a small miss when idling.. How do I clean out the bowls? also is there a standard procedure when tuning and adjusting these carbs? Like "3 turns out and back off 1/4 turn or something? or are these carbs all different"? what about the idle adjust at the bottom of the carbs? they are pretty touchy

I will check that switch.. how ever what gets me is the harzards work fine lol

any one have a wiring diagram for a 73 240Z? need to know the circuit the turn signals and brake lights use.... thanks:)

Gotta 73 240 i bought as a project.. I had the flat top crappy carbs on it and It would take a can a starting fluid and about 10 minutes of trying to start the car before it would start... After it would warm up it would run but really crappy.. So I did a swap with a round top complete swap off a good running 72 240. Now I have kind of the same proplem with the round tops. I have an electric fuel pump hooked up to the stock wiring and relay (which could be intermittantly faulty). Its like the carbs are starving for fuel but there is plenty of fuel going into them and preasure, but if you spray starting fluid into the carbs it will start right up then die out after it burns it up. Yesterday I started the car cold with out starting fluid but it took 3 full minutes to get it running. It would turn over for along time then start like it was running on 2 cyl, I had to feather the throttle to bring up the rpm and hold it there till it warmed up a little then it would idle.. Any advise as to what could be going on here? Vapor lock maybe? tank issue? HELP

Whats up fellas, its been alittle while since my last post, since then I have a total of 6 Z's in my yard lol. Currently Im working on my 73 240.. this car has been sitting for over 20 years. Slowly but shurly im bring her back from the dead. Well im having issues with my turn signal /electrical. The signals dont work and either does my brake lights. Seems im not getting power to the back of my turn signal switch. I switched the entire switch out with another one off my other 73 V8 conversion which im not sure it that switch worked either though but I just know that power is not making it to the switch its self... all the fuses seem to have power. I need to go pick up a wiring diagram for it. Mean while has any one experinced a problem like this on their 240 yet? any advice?

Well I will see if I can dig up a manual, or check it out on the web. So the front carb big screw controls air/fuel mixture on Both carbs at idle?

Well I dont have a manual on this car and usaully I have had all 280zs in the past. But on both sides on the lower carbs (facing the radiator) there is a hole. On the 4 carbs I have 3 of them have a glob of factory glue that was put over the hole to maintain factory settings. On one of my carbs (firewall carb) some one had removed the glob of glue exposing a copper jet adjusting screw. If you play with this scew it seems to effect the way the car runs. Are you saying there is another air/fuel mixture adjust interenally in these fine pieces of work? Rob

Picked up 73 240 project in decent shape. It hasnt run for 20 years. Everything on this car is all bone stock but deteriorated. After going through alot of stuff including dropping the gas tank/ hot tanking and relining it. I found my carbs were completely plugged up. A buddy of mine had a set of flat tops that had been rebuilt about 5 years back and ran good when they were pulled off a car 2 years ago. I put them on and got the car running. Only one of the carbs has the glue missing so you can adjust the screw at the bottom. Any how the car runs rough and a bit rich. Also when you try to start the car for the first time of the day you need to spray starting fluid in both carbs a few times to get it going, then you can start the car and it will run on its own. Any one have any experience with these flat top pieces of crap? I know these carbs suck, but I want to keep this Z all stock.. I have 3 other Z's including a 73 240 V8 conversion race car lol.. Also I put a new electric fuel pump in this car and got rid of the mechanical pump as it was toast as well. But now I might have a vapor lock problem cause I gotta use starting fluid everytime WTF lol.. Rob