marcus70ZT

hi, i had a very similar problem with my 280zxt and it turned out to be a combination of a dirty fuel filter and dirty fuel pump relay contacts (i think mostly the fuel filter). hope this helps.

i don't use my car for anything more than a weekend warrior, and there is no spare on there now anyway, so i don't think i would miss that. i was actually wanting to do the stealth install and bottom mount the sub to the board underneath the carpet. i'm really not looking to shake the windows or anything, just want to round out the sound quality. i wouldn't make the box removable, as the MDF would just be screwed down to the spare tire well, and the back of the well would be the rest of the box. would i need to put a layer of fiberglass in the well, or does the metal make a good "box"?

i've heard conflicting opinions on the viability of this. i want to put a single 10" sub in the spare tire well. make an airtight top out of MDF and boom away. anyone have any experiences with this? i can't see why the metal tire well would make a bad back for the box. if there is something bad about the metal, could i put a thin layer of fiberglass in there and then do the same thing?

would you be interested in a complete car? rusted 83 with good compression and only 130k miles. email me at marcus_240z@yahoo.com if so. i'm in austin, btw.

fl327, i'm running the 225mm (NA sized) clutch because i got a screamin deal on a 225mm aluminum flywheel and wanted to use it for my turbo car. SPEC guaranteed that it would hold 350 lb/ft of torque on my smaller FW. so far, so good, but i havent boosted past 9 psi yet since i still have no IC. the 4 puck is fine for me since this is a weekend driver only, and is actually fairly smooth if you release it correctly, but if i had the larger friction surface i probably would have gone with the same clutch you did.

there is likely no problem with your setup, the shuddering is a result of your 6-puck performance clutch. the puck-style clutches grab like hell and do not like to slip a little on engagement like your stock unit. try just letting out the clutch more abruptly. in other words, do not hold the clutch at it's friction point like you would a stock clutch. you will not get as smooth of an engagement, but you should be able to find a happy medium between jerking and chatter. I have the SPEC 4-puck sprung hub (yours is a solid hub) in my turbo car and have had to "re-learn" driving the car a bit. BTW, i would always recommend surfacing the flywheel when putting in a new clutch, since we're only talking about $35 or so, but i would not think that is your main problem as long as it was in decent shape. try the technique above and see how it works for you. a higher performance clutch does take a little more care and skill to get smooth engagement out of it and it will never be as smooth as a factory unit; so go the tradeoffs...

have you tried your friendly nissan dealer? it was about a year ago but they got the seals to me within a few days and i can almost guarantee they were less than $8 each. but we do get a pretty nice club discount here in austin.

i didn't read your entire post, but did you make ABSOLUTELY sure the TPS wires are hooked up correctly? i'm sure you know that one contact is not used on the turbos. if you are getting it to run better with the wires jumped together, that must have something to do with it.

got it direct form them. http://www.specclutch.com now you have me worried. what issues have you heard of?

i still haven't fully broken it in yet; they strongly recommended a 500 mile break in period before beating on it, but i have tried several pulls at full throttle through 1st, 2nd and 3rd. couldn't resist. it held great, but this is still at stock boost levels. maybe 225 torque or so with my open intake and exhaust. i am also shooting for about 300 crank HP and spec guaranteed me that the clutch would hold it's listed torque rating (345 lb/ft on my model). i asked them if the clutch started slipping and i put it on a dyno to prove the torque numbers, would they stand behind it and they said yes. i'm not sure if this would be in the form of a refund or a credit on a bigger unit, but hopefully i will not have to cross that bridge. but definitely none of those "90% increase over stock" ambiguities. the clutch looked to be well designed and my machine shop guy was pleasantly surprised at how well it was balanced from the factory when he balanced my clutch and FW. the sprung hub is well integrated so that you don't just have those thin tabs holding the disk to the inner hub like on a stock clutch. yes i am very pleased, at least so far... and i have the stage 3, SN543 in my car.

i have the 4 puck stage 3 for my 225mm flywheel. i haven't even fully broken it in yet, but i am pleased with it's streetability. (we car people like to invent words, don't we ) i'm not sure what the stage 4 uses for friction material, but mine is some sort of carbon composite that they told me would be street friendly, which it is. i wouldn't compare the spec to the ACT for two reasons. first, the SPEC unit has a sprung hub which cut's down the chatter and eases engagement considerably. second, the SPEC uses a better levering system on the springs so that you get the same clamping force with similar to stock pedal effort. similar concept to using a longer breaker bar. same force from you, more torque on the object. i was aprehensive about the puck style clutch too, but with the sprung hub and the carbon friction surface, it is exactly what i wanted. i'm not sure about your stage 4, though. there could be some differences. call spec directly and talk to them. they were very knowledgeable and friendly when i was going through this process. and from your experience, i would just order direct from them and forget nippon power. their site is http://www.speclutches.com good luck with it.

that's what i was afraid of. the power coming from the (-) side of the coil is pretty stout; at least stout enough to shock me pretty good a few times , so i'm thinking i did fry something. and yes, i did use the original bullet connector coming off the negative side of the turbo coil as my signal. anyone have another 280z tach they want to get rid of? i only need the guts since i'm using the 240z housing and faceplate.

240z turbo swap car with stock ECU from 82 280ZXT. i wired up the 280Z tach but can't seem to get it working correctly. it will move slightly, but much less than it should. at idle it barely moves and at around 3000 (judging by engine sound) it is still below 1000, maybe 900 or so. i did wire in the 2.2k resistor, but only after i realized i needed one and tried to fire it a few times with a direct lead. did i possibly blow something by running it without a resistor?

i agree with checking the starting voltage. i had a problem with that on getting my turbo swap to start up initially. also, if it has been at least a few months since the car has run, the injectors could have siezed up. i have neverhad one i couldn't eventually get unstuck by applying a full 12 volts positive and negative to opposite terminals, though. email me if this is the problem and you need more details.

mitch, i figured you'd get the turbo bug sometime. my 240 is ALMOST running. drivetrain is all installed i just have to mount and wire a few more things. are you thinking of turboing your blue 280? i agree; i've learned a ton from the forums. i still haven't read maximum boost, but that is on the list. marcus