98cobra+75280z

What all comes in the rebuild kits?

I'm always looking for parts, actually ended up getting a 240z as well so I have two cars that need a lot. What part of Indy? I'd love to come take a look!

Thanks but I actually was able to find a decent 260 roller so am no longer looking. I'll be on the lookout for parts here in the near future once I get the floors replaced so if you are wanting to part out I may be a buyer on some things. Thanks again.

Car is stripped down prepping for new floors with no engine/trans/etc, and will be down for at least most of next year is my guess. You're correct I have two engines one needing rebuilt and one that is in running condition. I guess my biggest question is if I postpone the rebuild/upgrade will I also need to change up the triples a lot or will it just need re-jetting and fine tuning for the higher compression engine.

Working on rebuilding a 260z and as hoping there might be some experience here to help me decide on and engine path. Currently I have two l28s, one n42/n42 and one n42/n47. The n42/n42 combo was running earlier this year so could be dropped in as is and run. I'm planning on running triple DCOE45s with a hotter cam. My two options now are to rebuild the good n42 bottom end as well and toss flat tops in it. Second option is to just drop the good l28 in and put in the triple webers and run it like that while in the background rebuilding the other l28 bottom end with flat tops and swapping them down the road. I guess I'd like to try and figure out how much more fun and responsive the engine would be with flat tops and if it would warrant rebuilding the good engine now instead of later. Has anyone just swapped in triples and ran them on a low compression l28? Was it still a worth while upgrade or do you really need the bump in compression to take advantage of the carbs?

Trying to source a decent shape hood for my '74 260z. Don't mind if its a louvered 280 hood or plain hood, actually prefer the plain non-louvered hood. Would like to find something near southern Indiana to cut out shipping cost. Best way to reach me is by text at 812-593-4511 or just PM here if you have one and are willing to sell. Thanks Kevin

Have a pretty severe dent in my rear quarter/tail light surround that I think will be easier to just cut out and weld in a patch panel. Before I go down the route of making a piece I thought someone may be stripping/parting out a car that could put the piece I need out. If anyone is willing to cut out the piece I need please message me here or text/call at 812.593.4511.

I'd be interested in the 240. Would you have any pictures? How bad is the rust and how many areas need replaced. What all missing from the interior? If you have pictures you can email them to kevin.lanter9@gmail.com or text me at 812.593.4511

Looking to get into another Z. Really prefer a 240 but 260s and 80s are welcome too. Would like to find one that needs minimum rust repair. Rollers or complete cars, doesn't matter to me.

I've got a dizzy shaft.

I have a turbo oil pump and oil pump/dizzy drive shaft.

Price lowered to 5,500.

Thanks, its actually just a generic wheel that I had laying around but its a lot nicer than the factory wheel that was on it.

For sale is a 1977 Datsun 280z that has been my project car for the last couple years but its now time to move to the next project. The car is located in Grensburg, IN. The following is a breakdown of the car: Body: -primer flat black paint -front and rear bumpers are shaved -urethane front air dam -'82 turbo swastika wheels Engine -'82 l28et (originally from 280zx turbo) -palnet smooth bore fuel rail -440cc fuel injectors -walbro 255lph fuel pump -n42 non egr intake manifold -skyline r33 water cooled turbo -huge front mount intercooler with piping -'82 borg warner t5 five speed transmission ECM -megasquirt MS1v2.2 standalone ECM -DIY autotune relay board -custom engine wiring harness -Fusible links have been upgraded to Maxi fuses (picture of engine bay is older and doesn't show this) Interior -AEM wide band O2 gauge -boost gauge -oil pressure gauge -pioneer stereo -jeep Cherokee leather seats The car runs and drives great and is tuned to 14psi. I only run 10psi to keep things on the safe side. The car is not without its issues though. If I were planning to keep it I would try to tune it more (which is easily done with a labtop and megatune). The rear bumper could be sanded a lot more to make it look better in my opinion. There is rust in the normal Datsun areas like under the battery and in the passenger floor board. The battery tray is pretty bad. This is an extremely fun car to drive an always gets a ton of attention wherever it goes. I'm asking 5,500 for the car. Call or text (812)593-4511 or message me here for more details.

Thanks newzed on catching my mistake. I flipped the direction of the drill and sure enough I got oil to flow. I pumped it until my gauge read around 60psi and the cam was flowing oil. My question now is that when I put the front end back together and cranked the car I still see no pressure. Is the starter motor just to slow to get the oil to flow?