98cobra+75280z

What all comes in the rebuild kits?

I'm always looking for parts, actually ended up getting a 240z as well so I have two cars that need a lot. What part of Indy? I'd love to come take a look!

Thanks but I actually was able to find a decent 260 roller so am no longer looking. I'll be on the lookout for parts here in the near future once I get the floors replaced so if you are wanting to part out I may be a buyer on some things. Thanks again.

Car is stripped down prepping for new floors with no engine/trans/etc, and will be down for at least most of next year is my guess. You're correct I have two engines one needing rebuilt and one that is in running condition. I guess my biggest question is if I postpone the rebuild/upgrade will I also need to change up the triples a lot or will it just need re-jetting and fine tuning for the higher compression engine.

Working on rebuilding a 260z and as hoping there might be some experience here to help me decide on and engine path. Currently I have two l28s, one n42/n42 and one n42/n47. The n42/n42 combo was running earlier this year so could be dropped in as is and run. I'm planning on running triple DCOE45s with a hotter cam. My two options now are to rebuild the good n42 bottom end as well and toss flat tops in it. Second option is to just drop the good l28 in and put in the triple webers and run it like that while in the background rebuilding the other l28 bottom end with flat tops and swapping them down the road. I guess I'd like to try and figure out how much more fun and responsive the engine would be with flat tops and if it would warrant rebuilding the good engine now instead of later. Has anyone just swapped in triples and ran them on a low compression l28? Was it still a worth while upgrade or do you really need the bump in compression to take advantage of the carbs?

Trying to source a decent shape hood for my '74 260z. Don't mind if its a louvered 280 hood or plain hood, actually prefer the plain non-louvered hood. Would like to find something near southern Indiana to cut out shipping cost. Best way to reach me is by text at 812-593-4511 or just PM here if you have one and are willing to sell. Thanks Kevin

Have a pretty severe dent in my rear quarter/tail light surround that I think will be easier to just cut out and weld in a patch panel. Before I go down the route of making a piece I thought someone may be stripping/parting out a car that could put the piece I need out. If anyone is willing to cut out the piece I need please message me here or text/call at 812.593.4511.

I'd be interested in the 240. Would you have any pictures? How bad is the rust and how many areas need replaced. What all missing from the interior? If you have pictures you can email them to kevin.lanter9@gmail.com or text me at 812.593.4511

Looking to get into another Z. Really prefer a 240 but 260s and 80s are welcome too. Would like to find one that needs minimum rust repair. Rollers or complete cars, doesn't matter to me.

I've got a dizzy shaft.

I have a turbo oil pump and oil pump/dizzy drive shaft.

Thanks newzed on catching my mistake. I flipped the direction of the drill and sure enough I got oil to flow. I pumped it until my gauge read around 60psi and the cam was flowing oil. My question now is that when I put the front end back together and cranked the car I still see no pressure. Is the starter motor just to slow to get the oil to flow?

Oh crap I didn't even take into account the direction I needed to look at the shaft. Thanks I will put it back together and see if I can get a positive response from the pump. Thanks for the response.

Tonight I made a shaft to spin the oil pump to use a drill on. I took the oil pump shaft out and primed the pump then put the pump back in and spun it with my drill... Still no oil anywhere. So I then took the front of the engine apart to make sure the passages were clear. I took a funnel and poured oil into the oil pump feed passage and then took the oil pan plug out and poured oil down the funnel. The oil poured out of the pan as quickly as I could pour it in. That makes me sure that the oil passage is clear and the pick up tube is fine. I have no clue how the pump refuses to pump oil. Is there any other things that can possibly cause a oil pump to not pump. Both the pumps aren't working. Please any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I am sorry to ask so many questions about this but I can't figure it out at all and am completely baffled by the lack of oil pressure with both a new and good used pump. Thanks again guys.

So I worked on the car today and didnt get any results. I took the pump off and made sure it was full of oil, I also pushed oil down the oil passages to ensure plenty of oil. I then cranked the car and got no oil. I then switched the new pump out for an oil one that I know worked but didnt flow as much as I wanted. I put that pump on and got no oil flow. I then took the oil pan off to check the pick up tube and it was clear and looked good. I put it back together and changed the oil but I still have no oil going anywhere. I cant figure it out as the engine passages are all clean and the pump is brand new. Any idea?