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k14

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About k14

  • Birthday 08/10/1953

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    southwest Missouri

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  1. 4 am? It's still dark at 4 am. If you paint at night the only thing settling into the paint will be bugs.....lots and lots of bugs!
  2. Okay, I remember that piece now. I think Datsun had made it out of steel only because they couldn't form that cheesy masonite panel that they used. As long as you formed the shape, I believe you could make it out of plastic rather than steel. Is your vinyl backing made out of vinyl, cloth, or a polyester scrim? Exactly what do you need to stick to? Find a good 3M rep and pick his brain. Go to their website and look around. I spent a couple of minutes on their website and found 3M Scotchweld 1099 L that might work. There may be other more affordable contact adhesives also. Do some more research. Best of luck with this project.
  3. Make sure you mold in a method to attach the inner door "fuzzy". I think that is the metal strip you are asking about. The fuzzy helps hold pressure against the glass when you roll the window up. I have one window on my 260 that will work without the fuzzy, the other window needs that slight pressure from the fuzzy in order to roll up correctly. You might consider molding out of ABS. The stuff is tough, you can get a pebble texture, it forms well, and is available in colors. You could also produce just white and let the customer paint the panels since ABS paints easily.
  4. As many of you know, some parts aren't available any more and you have to go scrounging. My '74 260z has inspired several scrounging trips. I recently repaired a window regulator, it had a bad roller and a screwed up plastic guide. I used a "Prime-Line" 3/4" diameter shower door roller to replace a broken roller (available at Lowes). I wouldn't want to replace all the rollers with them, but it works fine for just one. The window assembly has a plastic bar that slides in the guide near the front of the door. Mine was gouged badly and the mounting tabs were partially broken. I roughed the plastic bar with 80 grit and cleaned it thoroughly with xylol. I kneaded some Versa-Chem "Magnum Steel" (available at O'Reillys) and rough formed it with my fingers. After it dried, I shaped it with some sandpaper. Luckily I was able to pop rivet the bar back onto the window assembly. It has worked well so far. I serviced the heater box and soon discovered that the air ducting was a dirty mess. It required new flexible tubing with a 2" I.D. I found a vacuum hose replacement kit at Lowes that works very well. It was $19.00. The kit has 8' of flexible vacuum hose and the fit is perfect. I had about 10" of hose left after I replaced all the worn duct. The part is Shop-Vac 2 1/2" x 8' Lock On vacuum hose. Don't let the 2 1/2" on the box fool you, the hose is actually 2" ID. Hope this helps. Randy
  5. Check this one out. I don't know if the price is a typo or not. http://springfield.craigslist.org/cto/1534066310.html
  6. Go with a Miller. I recently bought a Hobart Handler 180. It welds fine, but the available spool gun is over twice the cost of the comparable Miller spool gun. By the time I had the Hobart set up the way I wanted, I could have had a better Miller machine. I think Miller owns Hobart, but many of the parts, such as a spool gun, are not interchangeable. Go to a local welding supplier and have a salesman go over the units side by side. With the economy being sooooo slow, they may cut you a deal.
  7. It's a long shot, but worth a try.....go to the local carwash and try a high pressure water spray.
  8. Thanks for the info on the calcium carbonate bath. I'm going to give that a try Hope to meet you at Branson Z Fest, you are going aren't you?
  9. Hole in the oil pan? In your Neon or KA? Rod cap came off but no head damage? No knock? Motor frozen?....or does the car still run? This isn't making sense yet. Anyhow, I feel for you.....
  10. None of this is rocket science. Most of the fixes can be easily done by an amateur, the front timing chain cover will probably take more than a day. If you do remove the cover, you might as well replace the timing chain at the same time. Put the ole' truck in the air, drop the alternator so you can see, and determine where the leak is! Once you find the leak, buy a Chiltons manual so you can see what you will have to do to fix it. If it is beyond your space/tools/time, then go to a shop. If you have the facilities, tools, and luxury of time....fix it yourself.
  11. I'm looking at the red circle in your photo and there are several possibilities for an oil leak in that area. Check your oil filter and make sure it is snug. Check the oil sending unit to see if it is leaking around the base.(its the small silver cylinder above the blue oil filter in your photo). The crank pulley has a seal behind it that can leak, but it probably won't leak as fast as your describing. At the bottom of the red circle you will see a little bright aluminum casing. That is the oil pump. Make sure it is tight or hasn't been cracked. The front timing chain cover can leak in that area. There are a couple of small seals in that area that are sandwiched between the timing chain cover and the block. These seals go around the oil passages that move oil to the oil pump. If they are deteriorated they could make a big mess. r
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