pleadingbark

Can I pm you so not to clutter this thread?

It keeps double/triple posting on me,then gives me a screen saying server unavail Sorry about the multi posts. What kind of target timing do I want to go for? I've seen between 10-15 static, would it just be until it starts pinging?

Do I want to run vac advance or no? Using the stock distributor w/ a pertronix thing and hotter coil?

Do I want to run vac advance or no? Using the stock distributor w/ a pertronix thing and hotter coil?

It came off an L28 that had a cam in it, I plan on putting a cam of similar size in this car. It seems to idle fine at 1100-1200rpm.

Are these a good starting point? Its a stock l24 with the exception of a pertronix unit and flame thrower 3ohm coil. Triple DCOE40 Primary Venturi- 28mm Aux venturi- 4.5mm Main jet- 120 (instead of 115) Primary Air Corrector Jet- 200mm Primary Emulsion tube F11 Idle jet- 50f9 (from 45f9) Needle Valve- 1.75mm Pump jet- 40mm Pump exhaust valve- 55mm (instead of 50mm) Float Measurement- 12mm The plugs are gapped at .030

Are these a good starting point? Its a stock l24 with the exception of a pertronix unit and flame thrower 3ohm coil. Triple DCOE40 Primary Venturi- 28mm Aux venturi- 4.5mm Main jet- 120 (instead of 115) Primary Air Corrector Jet- 200mm Primary Emulsion tube F11 Idle jet- 50f9 (from 45f9) Needle Valve- 1.75mm Pump jet- 40mm Pump exhaust valve- 55mm (instead of 50mm) Float Measurement- 12mm The plugs are gapped at .030

Are these a good starting point? Its a stock l24 with the exception of a pertronix unit and flame thrower 3ohm coil. Triple DCOE40 Primary Venturi- 28mm Aux venturi- 4.5mm Main jet- 120 (instead of 115) Primary Air Corrector Jet- 200mm Primary Emulsion tube F11 Idle jet- 50f9 (from 45f9) Needle Valve- 1.75mm Pump jet- 40mm Pump exhaust valve- 55mm (instead of 50mm) Float Measurement- 12mm The plugs are gapped at .030

205/50 I could have gotten a -5/-15 under there I feel. Ill try to get more this weekend.

I forgot to mention its got a pertronix unit on it already with a flame thrower 3ohm coil and 7mm bosch plug wires. The plugs are gaped at .044 and are those NGK's that were recommended with that set up. Timing is also at about 15-16 degrees. Will going from a 2.8l to a 2.4l be a huge difference?

This past weekend I picked up a set of triple weber DCOE 40's for my car (stock 70 240z L24 motor). They came off an L28 motor that made 150hp and were jetted as such. I have a few questions, first off I do have the jet sizes written down at home and will post them when I do get home. What type of ill effects will I see if I just slap the carbs on the car? The motor was a stock bottom end with an N42 head with Web Cam Grind #155 with 0.488 lift and 230 duration at 0.50. The head was worked a bit and decked and shaved, and the compression ratio went from 8.2 to 8.9 with that head. Would it be beneficial to keep the E31 head on, or would I just be better off snatching it off and putting this N42 on? I also have a Mallory 6al ignition that I need to figure out how to wire in (if anyone has a diy or anything I would appreciate it). Im not looking to really yank the motor due to the car being a 70 that just rolled to 70k miles yesterday and 1 previous owner. I also have a 6-1 header and will have an exhaust fabricated, if anyone has any size recommendations that would be awesome. Dont plan on taking the car to a race track, just something fun for the streets on the weekend.

Nope, having owned multiple sets of Yokohama wheels, work wheels, and rays wheels I feel I can confidently say that I have no issues with my Rotas.

15x9, 0 offset, 205/50/15 Falken RT-615. S13 Emotor coilovers, 1 finger gap all around.

Those little filters were 100% it, they were both almost totally clogged. Cleaned them out and stuck inline glass fuel filters on them until I can get the fuel tank dropped and boiled out.

Will do that right when I get home. Gracias.

I noticed the front was stuck open, but it would still do it with it pushed up and closed. Should I just pull the choke out and shoot some cleaned up tehre?

What are the signs the carbs are clogging up? Last night I was driving the car and it seemed like it lost almost all power and was running on 3 cylinders. The car had no power, could hardly rev and was constantly back firing. Pulled the plugs and the front 3 are half brown/half black and the back 3 are brown but were soaking wet. Would that indicate that the rear carb was stuck open? If you shut the car off it would be fine until you got on it while driving then it would suddenly run like total crap again. Any thoughts? Its got a pertronix on it now with a new coil, but it was running like a top all day then just suddenly started running like crap. Does it sound like the back carb's clogging up? Its done this before when it gets low on gas and the fuel filter gets clogged up, but I stuffed a new one on. Did have to drive w/o one for about 2 miles though as the car pooped its pants on the side of the road.

I do enjoy how pronounced everything I do in my Z is, I floor it, it snaps the nose up and brings the bottom down, same with going through corners, body roll from hell. But honestly to me thats part of the fun of the old car. By no means am I trying to tackle turns at any kind of speed, just out having a bit of spirited driving fun with it from time to time. I will agree with the life story every where you go with it, and it also seems everyone either owned one, worked on one or a family member had one at some point in time.

Would a 225/50 clear on an S30 with coilovers but not camber plates or would rolling fenders be needed?

I've been using a silver sharpie. Works great.

I need the emblem that says Datsun and the one that says 240z for the hatch lid please. Need asap.

round top or flat top carbs?