GrommitZ

Great! Let me know how it works. I think your combination of parts may surprise people.

Hi Rick, The .82 AR you have in your part of the world may not spool up the turbo as quick as the US spec .63, but with such a large compressor wheel for the stock turbine, the .82 AR should help increase the needed exhaust flow. If the exhaust wheel fits in the stock housing, it should be an easy bolt on. If it doesn't, I believe you will only have to replace the turbine wheel with your stock one.

Hi Rick, By your measurements, that is a V trim compressor wheel, which implies that the housing is a T04B. Note that almost all T04B's have 8 bladed compressor wheels. Based on the compressor map for the V trim, you can easily flow enough air to make 350 hp, but the turbine housing and wheel are too small for your goals. From your measurements, the exhaust inducer is the same as a stage 2 and stage 3 wheel, but the 1.8 inch exhaust exducer(really the limiting flow factor for the wheel) is a stage 1 or stock sized. The ar is also too small. Most here would probably reccomend at least a full stage 3 wheel with a .63 AR. Since the tubine exducer measures about the same as stock, I think there's a chance the wheel could fit in you housing. If not, using your current wheel should not make much difference. I believe SleeperZ uses or once used this compressor with the stock turbine section for just over 300 hp. You may need to port your Nissan turbine wastegate hole to reduce the chance of surge. You will also have to make fuel delivery and ecu modifications to reach your goals. You should search this forum to confirm anything I've said. The answers are here if you search for them.

Hey Larry, Will Ferrell has forever changed my memory of that song. I only hear cowbells now. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PyJ_8_SmHU4&mode=related&search= Good Morning HybridZers http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HJ66beahg-w&search=Elliott%20Smith%20video

Whoops. I posted before completing my reply. To summarize: 1. Replace 300ZX coil with your yellow coil. 2. Connect positive coil terminal to a. Ignition ON switched source b. Pin 34 of ECU c. Condenser 3. Connect negative terminal to a. Pin 3 of ECU(actually not required, but removes ecu error code b. B/W wire of powertransistor c. Tach sensor wire after tach modifications 4. Connect L/W(the faint white line in your pic) wire of powertransistor to pin 5 of ECU(Y/W which is blue in engine compartment), NOT to positive terminal of coil as you noted above. 5. I didn't see a pure black ground wire on the powertransistor in your pictures, but if you have one, ground it and make sure the powertransistor heatsink is grounded too. Let me know if you have any other questions.

Hi Yoak, I see you have a the Z31 coil and powertransistor, but the wiring to them is different from the ones I have seen. In my case, the wires from the coil were much longer and merged into a larger wire harness branch. Also, the 1986 300zx wiring diagram I have only shows only one wire going from the powertransistor to the coil. It looks like two of your wires are going from the powertransistor to the coil. This implies to me that the current source to the positive terminal is being modulated in the vehicle('88 Z31?) you got the coil and powertransistor from. I know from my own experience with hooking up the 300zx coil, that it works differently from the 280ZX coil. For one thing, my modified tach doesn't read any RPM's with the 300ZX coil. Because it looks like the 300ZX isn't getting a constant 12 volts, I would not reccomend using that coil with the way I wire the ignition(like the way the 280ZX Turbo ignition is wired). I'll list steps of what I would do if I was in your situation. 1. Replace the 300ZX coil with your previous coil, but keep the powertransistor. 2. Connect Pin 34 (red in your pic) and the positive terminal of the coil to an ignition ON switched source. I can't tell which B/W wire you are using for your ignition ON switched source, but keep in mind that the B/W wire coming from the powertransistor in your pic is not for this purpose. 3. The B/W wire coming from the powertransistor in your pic should be hooked up to the negative terminal of your coil. Pin 3 and eventually your tach sensor wire should also be hooked up to the negative terminal. You will have to modify your tach before hooking the sensor wire up. 4. The blue wire with what looks like a faint white stripe (L/W), coming from the powertransistor should connect to pin 5. I believe you connected pin 5 Y/W to a blue wire and ran it out to the coil previously. It should instead connect to the L/W coming from the power transistor. 5. I'm guessing the wire above, with the eyelet, is the one coming from the condenser, which has another wire going to the distributor. If so, the eyelet should also be connected the positive terminal of the coil. To summarize: 1. Replace 300ZX coil with your yellow coil. 2. Connect postive coil terminal to

Hi Yoak, You're missing a powertransistor for your coil. It allows the ecu to control the grounding of the negative coil terminal which causes the coil to fire. On the Z31 300ZX, it is a solid state transistor, mounted to a small shiny heatsink, a few inches away from for the 300ZX coil. It's less than 2 inches long and has 3 wires coming from it. If you have a 280ZX Turbo coil, the powertransistor is mounted on the coil's bracket. Note that the 2 powertransistors need to be wired differently. In either case: Ignition ON positive lead should connect to the positive coil terminal and pin 34 of the ECU. Pin 3 should connect to the negative coil terminal(required for 300zx powertransistor). Pin 5 (Y/W) connects to the powertransistor positive lead, which is a different color depending on which powertransistor you have. On the 280ZX Turbo, the powertransistor is prewired to the coil and has a 2 pin connector. One of these pins plugs to the B/W ignition ON wire. The other goes to pin 5 of the ecu. For the 300ZX powertransistor, Pin 5 Y/W connects to the blue wire coming from the powertransistor. 300ZX Z31 powertransistor B/W wire should connect to the negative coil terminal, which in turn connects to pin 3 of the ecu. The pure black wire should connect to ground. Hope this helps. Also, it looks like your condensor is hooked up incorrectly. It should have one wire going to the distributor(correct) and the other going to ignition on. You have it connected to the coil negative terminal. You can just move it to the positive coil terminal. Good Luck and I'll check to see how you're doing later.