GrommitZ

Not true. The wrong intercooler can be very poor for performance. Notice that THS doesn't list a pressure drop for a given flow. Also notice that their type 4 intercooler with the same core dimensions, but twice the charge face is rated the same horsepower. You should really read a book like Bell's Maximum Boost and you will understand how poor that design is. Edit. I'll do a quick internal flow calculation for your intercooler. 6" x 3 " x .45 = 8 sqare inches(that's about the flow area of a (edit 3 inch, not 1.5) pipe. That's about the smallest internal flow area I've seen, much smaller than Austin's 'small' ~30 sq. in. intercooler. According to Bell's chart, that's good for about 125 bhp, not 650. Since you probably can't return it, Maybe you could exchange it for one of their standard crossflow intercoolers( type 3, 4 or 5). You would at least double the flow and horsepower limits. Here's a couple quotes from Corky Bell's book. Rule: It is absolutely incorrect to think that "any intercooler is better than no intercooler. Rule: The single most important aspect of intercooler design is low internal pressure loss.

I don't know one way or the other if sealing the holes in the radiator support is good or not. You might want to search other threads on this. I know someone here has a hood with a raise center with an opening at the rear of the hood. At speed, his temperatures would actually rise because the high pressures in front of the windshield would force air into the engine compartment, slowing air through the radiator.

You should probably think about how to route all your plumbing, including a cold air intake, then see what room you have left over.

Ok Phil, Show us. Wheels look great! I can't believe you don't rub the rear fender wells under load. How's the ACT puck holding up?

I agree with 280ZForce. I would get a vertical flow intercooler. Note that air has to travel about 4 feet through narrow passages in your intercooler vs. about 6 inches in the vertical flow. While that will be better for heat transfer, it will be much worse for back pressure, meaning your turbo will have to work hotter and harder to flow the same amount of air as a vertical flow. Also note that the hot air in the first pass from one side to the other will heatsoak the other half of your intercooler so that the return to the outlet will shed much less heat than the first pass.

..the brunette that jtmny1999 posted briefly in his signature.

My e36 failed 3 times before passing a couple of days ago. I failed on the same section 15mph HC's. I have the same limit of 118 and was failing above 140 the first 3 times. Along the way, I did a tune up, replaced the O2 sensor, checked for ecu code faults and tripple checked for vacuum leaks, the last being a good reason for high HC's. The last time I replaced the airflow meter, but I don't think it's the reason it passed. On the 3rd and last try, I was monitoring my O2 sensor voltage by splicing my multimeter into it. There are periods where the voltage was stuck around .8 volts when it should be switching between roughly .2 and .8 volts within a second. I first thought a vacuum leak cause my ecu to run in safe mode. It will do this because a vacuum leak can cause the engine to run lean and overheat the cat. To compensate the ecu will force the fuel injection to run rich, protecting a cat melt down. I did not observe a consistent pattern of when the car was running closed or open loop. I can't pinpoint what allowed me to pass, but on the last try, I drove the car longer, including a brief drive on the freeway in 3rd gear. I made sure the engine was never turned off once I was at the test only station. The smog operator was nice enough to run the car on the dynometer for 5 to 10 minutes to keep the engine and cat warm this time. I got hot enough that I could see what was probably oil burning off the head pipe and cat, coming out from under the car. My HC's dropped from 145 to 41 and my N0's dropped from about 300 to less than 10. I know people always say to really warm up your cat before the test, but I also think it's important to not turn off your car before the test. My car's O2 sensor would be switching fine one moment. Turning off the car and restarting would cause to go back to open loop briefly. I'm guessing that the real reason my car failed the previous times.

Does that make Corky Bell Darth Vader? Ok. I'll take BoBa Fett. It would be nice to have one of those jet packs.

Congrats to your wife and you.

Hayward, but Wensleydale seems more fitting.

I was under my car 2 nights ago to drop the tranny. I'll be sure to add more support other than the 4 jackstands under my Z before I do more work. Yes, I checked to make sure my car is still on the stands.

Thanks!

Hi Dragonfly, I was wondering what pressure plate and disc you are using from what model/year car.

Hey Austin, I think you'll be fine, at least for the 20psi you have planned. Calculating the flow area based on Corky's book, using the charge face instead, you get 18.5" x 3.5" x .45 = 29 square inches(Note that if you use .30 instead of .25 in your calculations, you get the same). Since your ic is a bar/plate/top down(meaning short flow path) design, it should flow better than most ic's with the same internal flow area. Using the same chart in Bell's book, it looks like your ic could flow 600 to 700 cfm or around 450 bhp. I see Treadstone's listing on eBay. Their claims don't seem out of line with other vendors, but I wouldn't make plans based on them. I would use Corky's instead. Better yet, you can see that Garrett is making 460 whp with the same size core. Edit. Here's a table I found showing flow rates/ hp: http://www.racetep.com/tneticatoaic.htm

The 2+2 booster only fits the late s30 body, 280Z, not the 240Z. It doesn't clear the clutch cylinder on the 240Z. I gave the one I bought to a friend with a 280Z.

You can have it all. My 3" intake passes through the support where 280ZForces' lower ic does. My lower 2.5" ic path has only one 90 degree bend to the firewall. It is clocked backwards at roughly 45 degrees instead of straight up, passing a cutout just above the lower radiator support hole. My lower ic routes to my thottlebody so I don't have to bend it back down. My intercooler is mounted a little more forward so I can clock the 90 degree bend back some. It also allows me to mount a thin radiator fan between the IC and radiator to reduce heatsoak. I see one more thing. 240hoke, you and I have the older 240Z radiator support which has more room to route the lower IC pipe. I also should mention that I can mount and air cleaner in between the IC intake and outlet. Yes, it's all a very tight fit.

Hi Phil, You're gonna have to carry your video camera around for us. I know your talent for steering with your left knee, shifting with your right hand, and holding the video camera with your left hand. Drive safe.

Yes, I might tow it away if I was paid $300. Ok, no I wouldn't.

No. It's not the turbo ecu. Turbo 280ZX ecu's have three connectors.

OOooooh yeah!

Hi Jon, I just want to say that your posts are GREATLY appreciated.

Hey VZ, You have my vote for leader of the free world. Be sure to have a talk with CARB after your inauguration.

Hey Mario, I'll second an Autozone rebuilt clutch MC. Also, you don't need to jack up the car to bleed the slave. You can easily reach it from the engine compartment.

That's really bad news when you have a cop trying to send you to a ref, writing you up for having an SR20DET when you actually have the stock L24.

Great videos Phil. I've notice how much you car has changed in just the past few months. You're very inspiring. Hmmm... this is starting to sound like positive eBay feedback. "Nananananana nan annanan!" Keep 'em coming.