GrommitZ

Here's a link to a diagram if you have a '79-'83 E12-80 280zx distributor. http://datsunzgarage.com/engine/ Hope this helps.

I believe most people just allow more air through with the throttle plate angle adjustment screw and rotate the TPS sensor accordingly.

The 300zx/Wolf ecu doesn't properly control the 280zx aac valve. Even if it did, the stock 280zx idle control system uses non intercooler air for idle control. Your source of air for idle control should come from the intercooler outlet, not the turbo compressor inlet or outlet(the stock 280zx use the compressor outlet because it was designed for low boost, non intercooled situations). If the idle control is improperly hooked up, you may be causing a boost leak, allowing air to be recycled and reheated by the turbo. In another case, you may be allowing some compressed, uncooled air to bypass the intercooler. Either case is trouble for engine and the turbo. Not only could you have detonation, but you could be over spooling your turbo. "Who is it? Dave's not here".

If it isn't the TPS, check for water condensation under the distributor cap.

Hi Yasin, I'm unclear about your confirmation using starting fluid. Do you mean that the engine started once you sprayed the starting fluid into the intake manifold? Have you checked to see if the plugs got wet? I hope you figured it out. Maybe you should double check your connections to the alternator, since that's when the starting problem started.

I agree with Evan. My guess is that your alternator brushes are worn. I bet you were driving at night because headlights will drain a battery quickly. Did you notice your headlights dimming on the road before the car died. If this is the case, a charged battery should be good enough to get you home in the daytime.

Good Luck! I'll be sure to reread your 14 Day's post for inspiration. I remember how much you accomplished in so little time.

The Bimmer driver knowingly cut off the bus, forcing the bus driver to brake to avoid a collision. I know what anyone in Aux's S&W Sigma thread would have done if they were the bus driver.

Looks Beautiful! I know the upcoming Willow Springs track event must be motivating you.

Thanks for the update! Unreal. I'm very glad you found the problem, for you and everyone here. I was considering the idea of removing the ignition lock.

Wow! I'm glad you're OK. That had to be scary. Edit: I see you just answered the questions I had. Maybe the acceleration aided in the key lockup.

The video says it normally run's low 10's so maybe for that or faster. I'm not saying I know or believe that he's running NOS one way or the other, but I and other's in this post believe it can be done w/o NOS. Regardless, few people have posted 10's with their Z's, NOS or not.

I think this car is an awesome sleeper. I don't think anyone here would predict that this car could click off a 10. If the '76 ecu can drive eight 45lb. injectors at 80% duty cycle like the l28et, it can flow enough fuel. The internal cross section of the l28et afm is small, but it is still larger than the t3 turbine inlet. Did anyone notice that it is installed after the intercooler?This car reminds me of the movies "Breaking Away" or "Cool Runnings".

Maybe you can use a heater hose, with one end against your ear, to narrow down the source of the noise. You can allow try spraying starting fluid near suspect areas. If the idle increase, you know you have a vacuum leak nearby.

There's a screw on the ecu that control's the aac valves modulation and thus the idle. Turn it counter clockwise, but just a little. If you turn it all the way counter clockwise, you'll enter the diagnostic select mode. You might also want to check for vacuum leaks.

Be careful with your back on your next visit to the grocery store. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=115995&highlight=ls1+weight&page=3

I was going to say the same.

After having a second look at your pics, the wear at the base of the compressor wheel was more likely due to thrust movement, not side to side movement. Did you have a gasket between the compressor cover and backplate? If not and if your particular turbo required one (not all do), that could cause your wheel to housing clearance to decrease significantly.

I still think your current master cylinder is bad. I bet fluid is making it's way past one of the two seals, causing the low pedal, slow sinking and brake imbalance(light).

Look Great! I'm tempted to order the Aussie one soon.

According to my Hayne's manual, your radial runout is double the maximum. They specify a range of .0005" to .0036" for the stock T3. The compressor wheel should never come close to touching the housing. I would definitely not slap it back together and reinstall without rebuilding the turbo first(if it can be). Just think of the time and money you took to rebuild your stroker. You should at least tear down the turbo to find out what you can before ordering parts. Do you have in and out play (axial)? if so then you'll also need a thrust bearing. Any signs of lubrication problems? I also suspect that your center section may be too worn.

I've done this with my 300zx vented rotors. My machinist says that several old Corvette racers shimmed their rotors. I shimmed them to get the run out(deflection) close, before handing them to my machinist who reduced the run out further down to .001-.002". I did use half height shims in the 3 and 9 o clock positions to minimize warpage. In the future I will not bother with shims since the 300zx rotors are so cheap. I'm surprised that your .1 mm shim only reduced run out by .12 mm. In my experience, a .1 mm shim should shift run out by .3 - .4 mm. Are you sure you didn't over correct the run out? If not, then I suspect you're bending your rotor hat. Geometry should tell you that the reduction in run out should be at least 2 to 1. If I had your setup, I would be more careful since the aluminum hats are malleable and more expensive. I would first rotate the assemblies on the hubs to find the lowest run out. You can also rotate the hats relative to the rotors. Also, I would check your rotor to make sure the thickness is consistent. My machinist also reccomended locktite for the hub bolts. If the assemblies get close to spec, I would try them out on the road to see if they settle a bit. Have you tried calling AZC?

Show off. You forgot your Elvis outfit.

Kewl!

That should do it. Just adjust the tierods by the same amount on each side. You can line up the edges of the front tires with the rears for a crude alignment so you can drive it to a shop.