GrommitZ

Are you running a hose from the valve cover breather in front of the compressor like stock? This should help reduce crank case pressures and oil blowby in the turbo even when the intake manifold pressure is positive.

I've seen this several times lately. Pushing the pedal still compresses the air, which in turn squirts out the brake fluid at the other end. To get the air out, I've had to open the MC bleeder valves quickly but far enough(without bottoming the pedal) to get the air that's stuck at the top of the master cylinder, but below the reservior. Good luck.

Did you bleed the master cylinder?

Thank you very much for the excellent job. I'm already looking at the front of my car. I've never seen so many people currently looking at a thread like this.

Sorry to hear about that. I'll hope for the best. Good thing it never started. BTW, thank you for your seat writeup. If it wasn't for you I wouldn't have swapped in my driver's seat.

Sorry about your encounter, I don't remember that scene. Other than the limbless knight and the Holy hand grenade, the thing I remember most is "Oh, it's just a harmless little bunny, isn't it"? I'm glad I didn't live that one.

That turbo really doesn't look that bad, but it's probably small for a Z. The turbine housing and it's studs don't look rusted. The turbine wheel looks like it never grounded. No play is good, but the roughness could mean a damaged turbine shaft or housing. The port job can be cleaned up and will have a more consistant AR than an internally wastegated one.

Hi Danman, I had half inch spacers machined for my 240 hubs. This turned out to be too thin. I think you best bet is to mock up the setup with washers first. Make sure your calipers can clear your particular wheels. A friend's wheels started to rub when the brakes got hot. You can optimize the spacers for your setup this way.

Your brake master cylinder may be improperly adjusted, preventing brake fluid from coming back into the reservoir when the brake system heats up. Also check your wheel bearing for tightness. A loose bearing will cause rub and should be fixed immediately.

It sounds like you have more than one problem. Did you bleed directly from the master cylinder? You have to open the mc bleeder valves fast and far enough to get the air out of the top of the cylinder, but not bottom the brake pedal while doing so. It also sounds like your brake booster is improperly adjusted if the rod that attaches to the brake pedal doesn't release far enough, the booster won't seal the vacuum. Without the assist, your brakes will feel like manual ones. Also check the rod that Pop N Wood suggested. If your reaction disk didn't fall out earlier, it might have by now because of the long pedal stroke and the pop you heard. This should not account for the weak braking power.

Datsunlover, Make sure your girlfriend doesn't sign any forms for the old lady's insurance company if they decide it's their fault. The first thing they will do is try to offer a small sum to release them from paying for any physical injuries. You said your girlfriend had neck and back pain. That kind of injury could show up again later. Wait a few months to make sure she's all right, even if it means turning down a thousand dollars for signing release of liabilty documents.

How about using adjustable camber bushings(<$100)? According to Jon's FAQ, they'll get you 1 degree more negative, but require toe adjustments everytime you change the bushing offset. Also, maybe your car will get more neutral as your PowerBrute breaks in. How are you taking the sweeper? Where's your turn in point and apex. When do you roll onto the throttle. I'm not too experienced to give advice here, but was wondering how you were taking the turn?

Hi Phil, I would feel less guilty for enjoying your videos if you got a roll cage.

I'll third that for Randy's racemart. I bought the AFCO(PRC) 24 x 18.5 Chevy type for my l28 engine for $159(now $179). For the RB, you'll want the double pass PRC ($209) where the inlet and outlet are both on the passenger side. The 24 inch is a great fit in my 240Z. It fills out the space in radiator support so that you can't see into the engine compartment, meaning more of the core is exposed to the cooling airflow. Randy's Racemart was kind enough to open a newly packaged radiator to take measurements for me. They also called both the AFCO and PRC warehouses for me. I originally was going to purchase a dual pass, but Randy's only had the single pass in their store at the time. FYI, they explained that the owner of PRC once worked for AFCO. The radiators share the same core, but PRC weld their own end tanks. The only significant difference that I see is that the PRC has a billet aluminum fill neck. I simply went with the AFCO because it's advertised height is 18.5" is less than the PRC's 19" for the tiny bit extra ground clearance. For support I made brackets that cup the radiator end tanks from below, similar to the JTR manual, but much smaller. If you searched, you would have found SR240Z's beautiful install here http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=110732&highlight=afco+radiator Note how short his mounting brackets are. Some say the radiator should be electrically insulated from the car. I use foam tape between my brackets, but others probably have a more elegant solution.

I had a 4k cut out that drove me crazy for months. It turned out to be my distributor dizzy. You're probably running lean at 4k because spark is cutting out. Have you noticed that your car cuts out at about 4k regardless of load? You could rev it to 4k in neutral with no load or speed up a hill until you hit 4k with the same cut off even though you have vastly different fuel requirements. I found a rebuilt l28et distributor, but I hear people have been installing z31 dizzies inside the l28et distributor body. You're running lean because spark is cut, causing the unburnt oxygen to pass through to the o2 sensor.

I can think of no better way to attract spammers, mischief makers, and others that would undermind the quality of this site.

I just got my Fidanza. My holes go through to the steel ring gear. The bolts off my flywheel are 18mm from the bottom of the bolt head and have 2mm thick lock washers. My clutch won't be in for a while, but it should be a close fit. If I have a clearance problem, I will just file the bolts down just a tad, but I don't think it will be necessary.

Who would have ever thought that Bambi could kick a$$.

My headlight switch as well as my hi/lo switch have had contact problems in the past. Try turning your head light switch on and off several times as well as flick the hi/lo beam switch several times.

Looks beautiful! I wish I could weld like that.

I like the size and dimensions for the requirements you've described, but I won't endorse that product having not tried it myself. Many eBay vendors have vague descriptions that leave out critical information like the one you just bought from. SSAutochrome, XS Power and others have gotten a lot of negative feedback for their turbos, headers and other products. I see that intercooler for $130 on eBay. It certainly looks tempting, but I would get other owner's experiences first.

The charge face is not used in the chart since it is just a two dimensional calculation. The chart I refer to has Flow rate in terms of cfm and bhp in the vertical column and Internal Flow Area, not charge face, in the horizontal column. 125 bhp is at the top of the range for low density turbulators. 8 square inches is also optimistic since the percentage of internal flow area looks to be a bit less than 45% (.45) when you look inside the intake port of the intercooler on their website. Hope this helps.

Whoops! Cut out the 1 and 1/2 pipe comparison when you contact them. That would be the radius, not diameter. In any case, 8 square inches is still extremely small and the 125 bhp limit still holds true as well as the fact that they didn't account for the effect of the divided tank. Good luck with that.

Actually worse than the pipe because there's a lot more frictional wall surface area. You can certainly say they falsely advertised the flow rating. Their type 4 intercooler use the same core with no divider and still has the advertised flow rating of 650 bhp. Even if that were true for the the type 4 intercooler, putting on the divided tank will cut the flow and bhp by more than half.

First look at the charge face. This is the area that the end tank sits on, in your case half the tank since it's has an internal wall in the middle. In your case the charge face is 300mm/2 x 76mm or about 6 inches by 3 inches or 18 square inches. Just look inside the intake port an that's the area you can see. Since just less than half the area is used for internal passages, Bell multiplies this area by .45, that gives you about 8 square inches of internal flow area.