Vandergriff84

Ok so would the noise throw a code? I have checked the TPS and it is spot on.

How do I go about checking the knock sensors? Is there anything other than detonation that would cause the knock sensor to send a bad signal?

I put a new pcv valve in today and the whistling sound is gone. It is now idling at around 650. The problem is that it is still retarding the timing and it won't stay running if I rev it and I mean if I give it just a little bit of gas and let off it dies. If I am not mistaken that is usually a sign of air leak but to this day I still can't find any.

Ok, So I checked my timing at TDC and all three marks line up so the only thing I can think of now is that the ECU is retarding the the timing for some reason but I do not understand why it would do that or what else could cause it to do so. I am still looking for a new PCV. I have not found a cross refference for it yet.

Ok, I did some messing around this evening and this is the new info I have. I adjusted my throttle plate stop back to where the plate starts to stick so that I know the plate is fully closed. I then re-adjusted the idle and I got it down to 700. I was still hearing the whistle so I started looking for it. When I pinched the PCV hose it would go away so I disconnected it and plugged both sides and the whistle was gone. So I checked the RPMs again and it was down to like 630. I am going to look for a new PCV valve tonight. Does anyone know which one to buy? I checked the timing again and it is still sitting at +5 degrees with the CAS fully advanced. I am thinking that the belt must have slipped a tooth or have been installed incorrectly. If anyone has any input on this that would be awesome.

So I don't know anything about propane or a fogging machine. What does that do? I do have stock cams for the only non stock items on the motor are the greddy style intake and greddy BOV. I have recently learned that the BOV has to be circulated back into the intake side of the turbo to keep the engine from stalling when I let off the gas. Its amazing how many people have told me that it didn't matter. I know that I have unplugged the IAC before and I think it droped slitely but not very much. As for the timing I ment to say clock-wise retard and counter-clock advance, I was thinking about which way the screws moved in the slot. But yeah when I advance it all the way i get to maybe 10 degrees and if I retard all the way I get way below zero. Could it be that the timing belt is off a tooth or something? I have not removed the belt so I would think it would be on there correct.

Ok, So here is my problem that at this point I have yet to encounter onther RB owner who has also had. My motor runs great, but I have yet to get it to idle under 800 RPM. Most of the time it idles around 900 according to my timing light. My autometer tach usually says a 100 or so more. My concern is that I can't propperly set the timing unless it idles at 650 as the FSM says. When I check the advancement with the light it reads between 5 and 10 degrees with the CAS turned all the way to the right. If I turn it all the way to the left it reads like -5 to -10 degrees and has a very difficult time running. I do not know if these reading are correct for this RPM. I would assume that the CAS should let me adjust between 0 and 30 degrees. Now for the idle problem, I have been through everything that causes the usual idle problems and nothing seems to be out of order. I have no vacuum leaks, TPS is set at .47V, I have 3 MAF's no change among them, I have new O2 sensor, I have two IAC units and I have cleaned and tried both no change, I have set the Idle screw all the way in and 900 is as low as it goes. The one thing that is bugging me that I can not for the life of me figure out is why I have this whistling sound coming from around the IAC on the intake. When I pinch the pcv hose the whistle goes away but as soon as I rev the engine it comes back. I have a greddy style intake and a motorsport shop in my town says that I would need a stand alone ecu or some sort of tuned ecu to work with it. I would love to hear what you guys have experienced in this regard and any input toward helping me resolve my idle problem would be greatly appreciated.

Can anyone explain how to test the maf to see if it is operating correctly. My car seems to be running fine at idle around 14-15 lambda but when I reach boost it starts dropping and going really rich. It is also idling at around 900 and some times after reving the enging or letting off the gas it wants to die.

I have been all over the car looking for vacuum leaks and I get know change in idle except for the very back side of the intake plenum flange it idles lower or rougher when I spray there. It is my understanding that spraying carb cleaner will make it rev when sprayed near a leak. I hear a whistling sound slightly and when I rev the engine it gets a little louder. I think it is coming from the IAC and when I pinch the PCV hose it goes away.

How do you know if you have the throttle blade in the right place?

Well the motor lives again. I feel stupid that it took me that long to figure it out but I am glad that it is fixed. I do have a question for the rest of you out there though. I can't get the motor to idle lower than 800 and the fsm says to set timing when it is idling at 650. I don't have the adjustment screw on the ecu because it is S2 and I have gone through the usual procedures with the tps,cas and IAC. I have my CAS all the way one direction just to get it to advance to 5 degrees or seccond mark and that makes it idle higher than not advancing it. So my question is what else is there to do to get it to idle lower? I don't have any vacuum leaks, at least I can't find any. The key on my cam gear is broken so I have to eyeball the CAS into the right place and I can tell when it is on right because it wont run if it is off. Is it possible that it is getting a verying signal from the CAS since the key is broken? Can the fuel injectors be leaking or putting more feul in than supposed to?

Ok so the wire I was using for ground on my afm some how no longer has a ground connection so I picked up ground from another wire in the afm loom that did have ground and now it starts and runs just fine. There is something strange about that being that I had checked all of those wires before and each one measured continuity back to the ECU. So now I just need to wire up my tach again and see if I can get the idle right and timing adjusted. I will update the progress later today. Thanks for the help guys.

I turned my multimeter off and then on again and it read 12v going to the afm. Not sure what was wrong with that maybe it has a low battery. I disconnected the afm wiring cleared the codes and now it starts up just fine. So now I am going to hook the wiring back up and see if it works.

Ok so I checked the diagnostics and I got code 12 which according to some other writeups is for Air Flow Meter. I then checked the voltage at the afm and got nothing. Continuity test shows two of the wires conected to ground. So at this point I am going to try to find out why I don't have any power going to the afm and possibley power it strait to see if that fixes the problem.

Yeah I am kinda at a stand still here. I have been reverse engineering the ECU today and for the life of me I can't seem to find where the 12v comes into the signal lines. Each injector is hooked up to an N channel switch which only supplies a ground source. I did find that one wire pin had come half way out of the ecu connector which I think goes to the AAC so that might explain why it was idling high. Does anyone know if you can check for codes without a consult? I don't want to go spend a bunch of money on one just to find its a bad ECU or vice versa.

So I have gone through everything again. I have spark. I have 12v constant to injectors I have 12v from all relays. The car fires when you first crank it then dies right away. I checked the signal wires again today on all six injectors and when I first turned the ingition on I had 12v to each injector. After cranking it I tested it again and when I first put the multimeter on the sigal wire I says 10-11v then drop instantly to 1v or less. I pulled the CAS off again and spun it manually and as usual all six injectors click at once and then cycle but only for a split seccond then nothing. So every time I let it sit for a while I have 12v to the injector signal wires but as soon as I crank it the 12v I guess gets to week creating a week signal to the injectors. I don't have a light hooked up for my check engine but when I check the voltage on that wire I get like 0.6V I am not sure if it sends a groun signal or a 12v to iluminate. I am hating myself for selling the other ECU I had. They seem to be really expensive right now on ebay. Does this sound like a bad ECU to anyone else?

I don't know if you found anything out about this problem but I am having a similar problem where mine click all at once when the CAS initially turns and then they cycle but to faintly to run the motor. Once the CAS has stopped turning for a seccond and then turned again it does the same thing. My motor fires on the initial start but won't run. This is driving me mad that I haven't found any threads with any answeres.

I forgot to mention I do have the port but the wiring harness was originally made for S1 motor. The guy who sold it to me said it was S2 so I bought a S2 motor only to find a few things didn't connect up. I changed the connections that needed to be changed but that port is still the way it came. I don't think there is a difference though.

I assume I can just go buy a consult from the auto store to check it. I hate to spend a bunch of money on it.

It is an R33 S2 RB25det other than that I don't know the year.

Ok, So I tried the carb spray this morning and It fired up. The only strange thing is that it back fired through the intake shooting flames out the throttle body. My right hand is hairless now. I checked the voltages on lthe ignition relay and the ECCS relay and both are good. So the question now is why would it not be sending signal for fuel but not enough and why did it shoot flames out the intake? Is there a valve stuck open? I guess it's posible that I had the CAS on slightly off when I sprayed starting fluid but that doesn't explain the rest of it. I checked each of the injectors with jumper wires and each one of them click loud and clear when ground is aplied. So at the moment each injector is clicking when the CAS turns but it is so soft you can hardly hear it. Another thing that I don't understand is that all 6 injectors click at the same time when the CAS first turns. At this point I'm thinking its a bad ECU but why it would have gone bad I do not understand.

So I checked the 12v constant to the injector harness and it is fine. when I check to see if I have 12v on each injector wire though I get nothing. However when I hook up a noid light to each wire and the 12v constant each injector lights up as I turn the CAS. I read some where about the injectors seizing up so I took a small hammer and tapped on each injector. At first it seemed like this did nothing but when I put cyl 1 spark plug back in so that I could listen more directly to the injectors I started to hear them click as I turn the CAS. It is not very loud which makes me think there is still something wrong with the signal to the injectors. So I put the CAS back in and went to crank it and it fired for a seccond like it had done before and stopped but now it fires for a seccond every time I crank it where as before it had only fired the first time I cranked it. I find it hard to believe that all six injectors would seize up after sitting a day or two and or go bad all at the same time. When my spark plugs went bad last summer I remember turning the CAS and hearing each injector loud and clear so this is really driving me nuts. One thing that had change last night when I started to hear the injectors click is the pullup resistor that I had connected to my tack signal and pin 49 had broken while moving things around. So that rases question as to whether this is really a good place to connect that since it powers the ECU and Fueling system. I have not tried changing out the ECCS Relay but I might do that today. Does anybody know what kind to buy? My harness was done by Wiring specialties or Mckinney I'm not sure and they had put some generic realys in.

Thanks, that is pointing me in a good direction. I will check into the relay tomorrow and see if I can't get 12v back at the signal wires. I have pulled a spark plug and it sparks as I turn the CAS so I am farly sure that the Ignition system is working properly.

Thanks. I wanted to check and see if any one else had done it in the car first since the instructions said to do it with the cam out of the car. That just seems like a lot of unnessary work to replace it.

So I have an RB25det and it was running all this past week. I was having some trouble getting the Idle down to stock setting and so I went through the usual task to try to set it at 650. I can tell it is running rich just by the smell of the exhaust. The only thing that I had found wrong was tps closed plate voltage so I reset it the .47V and then went through the idle adjustments again and it still would not go lower than 900. So the next day I go out to start it up and it fires for a second and then dies and never really gets going. I cranked it again and get no firing at all. So I checked and it is getting spark but I do not hear the injectors clicking like they normally do. The fuel pump is working fine and comes on as soon as the CAS is rotated. I put a multi meter on the injector harness and all I get on any of the signal wires is 0.3V. I am kinda at a loss for ideas unless its in limp mode but even if that were the case it should run for a few secconds. I would greatly appreciate some input from you guys who have had more expirience with these motors.