Vandergriff84

Hey gang, I recently installed my Speedhut gauges and I noticed when I put my foot on the brake pedal the turn signal indicators and the back light for the odometer screen lights up. Upon further investigation I found that my turn signals and hazards don't work when the lights are one. The turn signal indicators are also constantly lit when the headlights are on. I had autometer gauges before and while I don't recall having this issue before so I can't necessarily say that this is specific to the speedhut gauges. I also recently replaced all the bulbs for LEDs. I am just curious if anyone else has had this problem before?

So I have seen in a few other threads as well as Futofab and Silvermine websites that the 04-15 STI diffs are known to work with the new stub axles. I am curious to know if any one actually has experience with the 2016 and later diffs who can say for certain that they will or will not work? I know that the 2016 is the same gear ratio 3.54 and a Torsen style LSD like the 2015. Since Subaru parts have always been fairly interchangeable I find it hard to believe that they switched to something new. So my questions would be: has anyone used one with the new stub axles? Are the spline counts the same? Are the mounting studs the same as previous years? Is there something that I missed in previous threads that explains the cut off at 2015?

I can't speak for the MSD unit but I will say that I have never been able to get a clean signal off of the white wire on the back of the coil pack harness. When adjusting timing I have always had to use the spark plug wire between the coil and the plug. I even have a newer style timing light and every time I pull the signal from the white wire I get a random flash and the RPMs on the light are all out of whack.

I used the resister method as well and I haven't had any problems. Is it possible you have a bad tachometer?

I am running the stock compressor on my RB25. The only problem that I ran into is the stock compressor bracket was too long and hit the sway bar. I just cut the end of it off shortend it a bit and welded it back on. You then have to find a belt that fits the new length.

I am in the process of getting everything hooked up on mine. You will need the MAP and AIT and wideband sensors as mentioned before as well as switch the CAS disc out with the AEM disc. You will want to take your time with the CAS disc swap as it is very easy to damage the parts in the process. Other than that the AEM should be plug and play or at least I am hoping so.

Not typically. The ECU, especially on older cars pretty much controls the engine only. The lights on my 74 are only controlled by the switches and turn signal relays. I don't think they changed much going into the 280z other than they might have added relays for the head lights but I am not sure on that. Since mine was a carbureted to begin with I started out buy locating the things I needed to keep ie(head lights and wiper motor) and then I just cut out the rest of the wires since the engine harness has everything needed for the motor to run.

I used an old harness from McKinney motorsports and like helghast7 said it could run the motor on a stand with a battery. There is just a couple of wires to connect and you are good to go. I read through Chris' instructions and I would have done it my self if the package deal I got on mounts and drive shaft hadn't already come with the harness. You shouldn't have to do any thing to keep your lights working just make sure that you don't cut any of those wires out when you clean up the engine bay. I took everything out of mine except the head lights, wipers, the wires for the starter and alternator. Your tail lights are on a separate terminal so there is nothing to change there.

Yeah, the intake flange has been on the to do list for a while now. I have been running it with the stock TB and a 1/2" adapter plate that I made which surprisingly works. I took a peek at the zilvia thread which gave me a headache. There is some good info there if you can get past all the name calling =) I have been watching all the videos from AEM and I am thinking that I might go ahead and work on non boost tuning and see how it goes. Once I have the bugs worked out I will probably get the upgrade turbo and get some boost tuning on the dyno.

I hear you on the cold weather. Although I am sure it is nothing compared what you guys are faced with up north it has been pretty cold down here as well. Either my clutch master or slave went a while back and I haven't had the time or decent weather to work on fixing it. I am a noob as well with the tuning aspect and I am a little scared to try and mess with the EMS until I have some one around that has some experience. I am hoping that I still have an extra CAS to use with the AEM disc. I am starting to think that I might hold off on the turbo upgrade until I get some feedback from you and anyone else that I can find that has done it. I still have to modify my intake to fit the Q45 TB which is going to take some time. I can't wait to see the numbers you get it on the dyno.

So I picked up a used AEM EMS the other week and a spare turbo to send in for the pro mod upgrade. I would love to hear how your turbo performed. I still have a lot left to pickup and work on but I hope to have the motor tuned this spring.

You got me. I am just surprised that there isn't more info out there yet.

Thanks for the info on that. I am anxious to see how that turbo works on your car. No pressure =) So I have been looking at these new MS3 computers from Megasquirt which are supposed to be able to work with the stock CAS and I like the idea of the whole DIY thing but I am completely inexperienced with tuning so I am a little hesitant to go for it. Has anyone else here done any tuning with Megasquirt comps and if so, how difficult would you say it is to get a base map up and running? Are these more or less comparable to the leading AEM and Haltech?

For some reason I had it in my head that they were stainless when I bought mine but it has started rusting on the outside since then which makes me think that I was mistaken. I have never had stainless before so if it is supposed to rust a little then someone please correct me.

Ok, so I see where it seems the same picture is being used for the manifold but everything else is completely different. A side from the pictures and the difference in there mounts and such I am pretty sure that McKinney has been making their kits for ten or more years now where as the CRX kits have only been around for the last year or so. Its no big deal if to venders go in on joint ventures to sell the same part as long as they both stand behind the product. If its cheaper from one vender then so be it. As far as I can see from the pictures that have been posted from CRX in regards to the rest of their swap parts the McKinney parts are far superior.

Ok, so I have decided to go ahead and get a standalone for my RB25det Z and I am looking for some input on a few things. First off, I have been talking to coolwhip about the Adaptronic ECU that they are selling which is a good price but I have never heard of them. I know a few of you guys are using the AEM S2 and the haltech which I know have been proven over the years but the rep is saying that the Adaptronic actually responds better to the stock sensors. Has anyone here used one of these and would you consider it to be a good purchase for a mild build? Secondly, I am also interested in the Pro mod turbo that they are selling at Raw as well and I am curious see if anyone has bought one and if they work well for street use. I am not looking for high HP and I think the rated 450hp would be pushing the limit for my weekend drives but I don't want to send off my perfectly good turbo and replace it with something that is lacking on lower RPMs. Obviously if I go with a turbo upgrade I am planning to increase the fuel with larger injectors but I want to make sure that I am not spending a lot of money for nothing. I welcome any suggestions on other mods that might be worth looking into.

So I just installed the vintage air gen 2 mini in my car and I have it working fairly well except for the fact that when I shift gears with the ac on the motor dies. I have a ground signal to pin 46 on my ecu to activate the FICD and the idle does go up when the ac is on so I am a little confused. Does the neutral switch need to be connected in order for this to work right? Has anyone here had any problems using the rb compressor with vintage air kits?

I have Nissan Data Scan on my Yoga 2 Pro and it works fine. I have not tried any of the other consults.

I am referring to the speed to RPM ratio. Its like trying to cruise at 20mph in 3rd or 4th etcetera. In most cars that I have had (mostly Honda's and Toyota's) you can cruise at say 55mph in 5th no problem and with the RB and my current diff it doesn't start to cruise until around 70-75mph. Once I hit 75 to 80 it cruises with no problem and feels like it could just keep climbing. There is also a slight vibration in 5th that is not present or noticeable in any of the lower gears, I don't know what that is about I'm just hoping that its not in the transmission. I'm not really into drag racing and I haven't really done any hard driving to report on what it can do. I am sure with a little tuning it will do pretty well.

So I am running the stock R180 on my 260z with rb25det and it feels like 5th gear is struggling until I get up to 75mph. I don't plan to be running it above 100mph very offten so I am assuming a lower gear ratio would be better suited for daily driving? I am thinking of using one of the Subaru diff's but I don't know what is going work the best with the rb25det transmission. I guess it would help if I knew what my current diff ratio was. Unfortunately I think it was swamped out by the guy who owned the car before me.

They always came through for me. I will say that every time I talked to them one the phone and even the emails that I got gave me the impression that they are always really busy. I had an issue with my down pipe but I sent it back to them and they fixed it. I will say that it took quite a while for the exhaust parts and I got the impression that they are made by some one else. So it could be that they are waiting for all the parts to be ready at one time. Keep us updated on your progress.

OK so if you flip the valve covers over, there is a channel around the edge that is about 1/4" wide which is where the gasket goes and what I am gathering from what you're saying is that there is nothing there. Is this correct? I am pretty sure the oil would have leaked out as mine was leaking slightly on the exhaust side with a gasket. So either some one took them off before it was shipped to you or you have magic valve covers.

Where did you get your motor from and do you have a picture of the valve covers off? Have you run the motor since you got it? It sounds like someone thought your motor was spare parts.