Shuyun

Here are some pictures of my whale tail it is 55 by 17 in or 140 by 43 cm

So the solution for the P90 is the 2 mm or 80 thou off the base then shim up the came towers, springs, with longer valves. So how about what it cost to have done what did you pay for the Shave vs. what it cost to put in hardened guides larger valves and port and polish the E31. I have found several shop recommendations around Atlanta GA can some one give me some recommendations around Tallahassee FL and Jacksonville FL. Thanks,

I found this on an E31 Search which recomends hardened seats and larger valves with a simple port an polish to get the most out of the E31. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=143162&highlight=E31 So no I will start looking for some more info on uping the compression on the P90. Like how much can be shaved before the valves become a problem on the flat top pistons. And how much work is needed to add the height back to the cam shaft?

I am putting together an NA motor for my 1973 Datsun. I have a F54 Block, Turbo pistons (Dished), NA Pistons (Flat Top), L24 Crank, L28 Crank, Rod out of an L24, L26, and L28NA a Turbo, A P90 Head and an E31 Head. My Plan is to build a stock L28 NA short Block with the F54 block L28 Crank and L28 Flat toped pistons, I plan to use an Arizona 4 barrel intake and header in my NA setup. Which Head the P90 or the E31 will result in the better performance in the nearly stock setup. According to the Engine Design Utility the compression ratios for the two are as follows: E31 = 10.15 to 1 P90 = 8.48 to 1 What if any work will result in better performance form either head as I will have the head in the machine shop to have a rebuild and 3 angle valve job. What will get me the most for performance for my money in my proposed setup. Thanks for your answers and I will keep searching to see if this question has been answered in an earlier post.

I am looking for a complete moderate condition Dash for a 1973 240Z Datsun I need one to work on before I try anything on the one in my car. It just needs to be the dash, harness and gauge clusters as I am trying to select the gauges I want to use. I would like to pick it up and I am in Valdosta GA so any one in the south east where I can drive to pick it up. Thanks, Edit 240 not 249

I live in the Valdosta GA area and need a hood latch for my 1973 Datsun 240Z. I need all the parts inside and under hood.

I thingk they were made for the super rich king in the southeast asia island nation. I here a lot of talk several years ago about wagon lambos.

I have not decided who to have my machine work done by yet I am still assembling parts. I have not decided on how much I am going to push the limit on bore and stroke. I have been planning on an 88mm bore and an 83mm stroke with a F54/P90 combo with a blow trough carb setup looking for 300hp. I was just asking if a bore of more than 86mm was possible with sleeving on the LD Block.

I have just purchased a Maxima LD28 complete long block for the crank. I have been reading about the block for use in my next build up. The information I can find says a 1.5mm or 86mm over boar is the limit of the block. The center line spacing is supposed to be 96mm so is it possible to sleeve the block it a set of 90mm boar 2mm thick cylinder liners with a 2 mm spacing between cylinders?

Tony D sorry for the confusion the engines I watched my uncle tune carborators on were Chevy big block 454 and 502 for example the car I learned to bracket race in was an avanti with a chevy 454. He currently runs a Merlin 632 block with a poinac head and massive FI setups in a tube chasie 1968 corvet. My Cousin races in NOS Top Dragster with a simlar setup on a rail car. My uncle helped me rebuild an rejet the holly 395 on my tom's setup I had strugled with a couple of holly books and had it to what i thought close but it took him about half an hour to completly change the way the car responded it is now fun to drive. SHO-Z thanks for the heads up.

I would think that once the jetting was approprate for an average day only small tuning for large weather changes would be needed. I am not looking for all out preformance only high street preformance. I have watched my uncle tune his bracket race cars with carbs and he would rejet and tune the carb on every pass with an eye on the weather station pressure, temp, and humidty. But he was tuning an engine for 2.5hp per cubic inch for drag racing we also adjusted the valves every pass. This being said I have no experince with triple carbs on an L series engine but I have been reading all the post i can search there is a good weber sticky start there for more info.

I am currently running a Tom’s Turbo Draw though setup and have lots of fun tuning and running the simple system. I am looking at a new engine setup in my car and am planning to build a new motor setup completely before swapping the running system out of the car. I am planning on starting a bench racing project for information on a Blow through triple carburetor setup. Before I start I am reading through all the information I can find in the L6, carburetor, turbo, and 240Z sub forums. I have found that a lot of the information about intercooler routing a plumbing will be appropriate for the setup weather carburetor or fuel injectors. I have found several good ideas on jetting and simple O2 volt meters to help with tuning the setup once it is complete Next I have not found a lot of info on sizing the carburetors for L24 I have seen a lot of 40 to 45 mm mentioned, so with a L29-30 and turbos 45 to 50mm would be my guess I am currently looking for a couple good books on the Dellorto/Weber carburetors that should help me size the carburetor correctly My plan is to use all the great information about Stroking a L28 on this sight to build up a street driven L29-30 with an idle of 800 RPM and a red line of 6500 RPM. I am hoping for some help on deciding weather I will need twin turbos to get a spool up by 2800-2900 RPM ( or earlier if possible ) and have boost all the way to the red line. Boost goal is 20 to 25lb at max boost. The Dellorto carburetor is rated for up to 30lb but I am looking at a new set form OER as I have seen several turbo setups using them. I am still searching for more definite info in this area. edit text size

I Would like to find out more about the internal structure of the HKS and the SK or SKS type of Plenumns edit added picture of HKS Plenumn

first pict is Cartech Box plenum second and third are of an hks desing type one? forth I think is custom knock off of an HKS type two?