markrolston@mac.com

Sorry for the redundancy...I started a thread in the RB section to show off some new Carbon Fiber door panels I just put on my car. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=140360

Check this out. I did exactly that to my CF hood... http://web.mac.com/markrolston/NewSite/Z-Blog/Entries/2007/2/22_The_Fender_Flares_and_Wheels.html

good luck making a set that looks good. CF isn't cheap to start with but the trick is to make a mold that is flawless and that you can actually pull a part from. I watched two extremely seasoned guys work with the door panel part for countless hours to get it right.

essentially it's mounted just under the intercooler which is normally where the radiator would be. The radiator sits just behind that. Not a great location but it works.

No, the picture is from the first set we created. We had not yet drilled for the door latch, window crank, and door handle. Those are just holes to drill. You can attach the stock parts just fine. I'll post a pic later of the parts installed.

Just to clarify- I'm not selling them myself. Al's Bodyworks is. He's a small shop here in Austin that does amazing work but isn't really connected to this whole interwebs thing so I did him a favor by mentioning the panels. They really are very nice and now that I paid for all the upfront labor (you can thank me for that it would be great to see some others enjoy the benefit. I personally hope he sees some sales from you guys but you'll need to call him directly (512-836-1851) I would guess he'd happily do them in fiberglass as well.

A small update to my RB 240Z- The bodyshop here in Austin, Al's Bodyworks, that did the bodywork and painted my car just finished making a set of Cabon Fiber door panels for the car. They made a custom mold (which took forever to get right) and just pulled the first sample panel. They look incredible and weight almost nothing. I can't wait to put them on the car. If anyone is interested in a pair for their s30 feel free to call Al at 512-836-1851. After all the work put into the mold, I'm sure he'd be happy to run off more sets to try and recoup some of those costs. I updated my car blog with pics. I'll add more when I get them installed. http://web.mac.com/markrolston/NewSite/Z-Blog/Z-Blog.html mark

I need a spark plug cover for my RB26. Does anyone have a spare they would sell or donate to me? thanks, mark

Yup- that one. my bad.

Hello RB fans. I've posted before various updates on my first RBZ (http://web.me.com/markrolston/NewSite/Z-Blog/Z-Blog.html) This summer I began building a second RBZ and this time I'm starting from scratch and building a more radical car. I invite you to take a look at the early stages: http://web.me.com/markrolston/NewSite/New_Z_Blog/New_Z_Blog.html As soon as the core IFS and IRS arrive I'll begin fabricating the tube chassis. I'm hoping that by the time we get to the motor I can find used VG38DETTs out there and make the switch from the RB. I'd like a motor with more grunt and available parts in the U.S.

thanks again. I should add that I am almost completely sure that this is not the cause of the BOV. I have tried three BOVs on it, a combination of two (one on hot side and one on cold side) and no BOV. The issue continues. So I still wait to try out the shrouds. mark

Thanks everyone for all the ideas. The problem is during part throttle. There is no issue when I release the throttle as the BOV seems to work as intended. The ported shrouds should be installed by mid next week and I'll report back the results.

Thanks for the advice. I have small air filters attached to the cam covers so I don't think that's the issue. Precision Turbo is going to put ported shrouds on the turbos to see if that fixes it. I'll post results next week.

I'm looking for some advice on a turbo issue I'm experiencing: At part throttle (almost exactly 3k) the turbos begin to create a whoosh-whoosh cycle like a slow choo choo. As I accelerate this cycling sound also accelerates until it disappears. Also it feels like a studdered acceleration force rather than a smooth engagement. But that could be my imagination given the focus on the sound. It sounds to me like boost surge in one or both of the turbos. The turbos are essentially spinning up more boost than the throttles will allow the engine at that point. The setup is two 2871s on Tomei Expreme manifolds controlled by an eBoost2 controlling two separate boost controllers. The internal wastegate actuators are 14lb springs and the boost is set to 16 or 19lbs. Both have this effect. (there is a 25lb setting as well but that's off the table with this issue) So far I've received lots of competing advice: 1. It's surge and I should put seperate BOVs on each hot pipe and recirc those into the intakes of each turbo. I'm not sure this would have any effect. you tell me. I already have one BOV venting to atmosphere. 2. It's an imbalance caused by cylinder firing order causing the turbos to get out of sync and I need a balance tube. 3. The turbos are the wrong size for the engine. I need a different size. 4. all or a combination of the above. advice? The problem hasn't been solved by tuning.

Chris Olney helped me with most of the fabrication on my car- the mounts, piping, etc. Ping him. He might be interested. He's extremely talented with these cars. his email is head2na@yahoo.com MZM is a good shop as well but they are not likely interested in fab work for an old car. They took on my car as a special project. They helped rework the suspension geometry and retune the motor.

can't seem to find ZCOM on that site. better URL?

just finished engine rebuild. http://web.mac.com/markrolston/NewSite/Z-Blog/Entries/2008/2/10_Engine_Rebuild.html looking forward to NASATX race 3/15 in MSR in Cresson, TX. mark

plenty of pictures of my swap throughout my blog. Also just finished engine rebuild. http://web.mac.com/markrolston/NewSite/Z-Blog/Z-Blog.html http://web.mac.com/markrolston/NewSite/Z-Blog/Entries/2007/4/8_Custom_Piping.html

The brakes are incredible. Completely modern stopping force. I can not only accelerate with the newer cars, I can stop like them too and that's often as important.

The arms seem fine but I haven't had them on long enough for real feedback. They allowed me to set up the ideal geometry so in that sense they work great. I wish the rear setup was as slick (the whole billet thing) as the front. the spring rates are 275 f, 250 r. works great with the struts. The sway bars are 19mm. It's a relatively light car so no need for overkill. The brakes are the arizona Z 12" 4 piston rears and 13.3" six piston fronts. I did some custom work to make give the red "datsun" look.

Stay tuned - I'll post pictures on my blog in a day or two of the bumper+hitch setup. mark

They are rebuilt and hardened for race duty. They took forever to get done- four months. Mostly the guy just wouldn't put them in the que.

Thanks. The control arms are from Arizona Z-car.Nice parts.

I spent the last few months making some radical changes to the drivetrain and suspension. I also managed to get the motor retuned after changing the boost controller setup. Check it out: http://web.mac.com/markrolston/NewSite/Z-Blog/Entries/2007/10/29_Handling_Upgrades.html btw- does anyone have any info on the OS Giken 3.0L bottom-end? Best place to purchase it? Better option? Can you guess where I'm going with this!?

Let's see some pics (please!) got a website to check out?