munters

This is my answer i got direct from Hitachi Marcel, Thank you for contacting TOKICO. Regarding part number BZ3015 & BZ3016 we are currently on B/O we are hope to see part number BZ3015 & BZ3016 around 3-4 months. Thanks, Raymund Rijkschroeff Sales Technical Analyst Hitachi Automotive Systems Americas, Inc. I think John is right. Now I have the same Problem. I need to find struts latest in may. Im going to have a 190 to 200lbs spring 1" lower for the mountain streets in Switzerland. What shocks is a good question Illumina would have been the best option... Koni are to stiff kyb stock replacement only I went trough the traeds but for our case they don't help to much.

Looking for no rust car nothing needs to work except being able to roll it on a truck Could be a roller but no rust. don't care about exterior paint condition unless car has no rust. My project car body is to bad... up to 4K above it would not make sense.

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to bad it's a 1972 240z

The whole project is still on hold because I cant find parts like the inner fender to do the repair as you can see. This work would never pass the government inspection. The crazy thing is I could find a rolling chassis, but the transport to europe is around 4500$. I'm still hoping to find basicly the whole front to exchange everything.

I still need those parts

I'm looking for inner fenders, fenders, fender extensions and ASSY-REINF HOOD (OEM PartNr: 64150N4600) all left and right (the whole left and right front) If possible no rust. Thanks Marcel

I could be in San Diego end of this month. I'm from Switzerland. Do you have any pictures?

I started to rebuild my 1972 240z. The body was badly done 15 years ago. I need a good 240z body/ rolling chassis without rust. Thanks Marcel

Startet with the underbody and there is a lot of Tectyl (3mm to 5mm.) Heating it up and scraping is a lot of work. The body shop did a really bad job 15 years ago before the body went to sleep till now. Many hidden rosty parts to be repaired again. (Grr paid 10'000 $ at that time for the body shop.) They did a good job at the back but a really bad one in the front. Like two people worked on it. There are up to 3 layers of metal. This time Im going to do it myself. To bad I tought I could go to the bare metal and bring it to the paint shop. So the whole mecanical part of the rebuild is a bit on hold. The list is huge there. roughly 8K$ of parts till now without the engine. I heard already a few times are you out of your mind? maybe I am. But this was my first car. I don't care it's like go back in time. Some people want young GF and I want my first car back

Finally Some Pictures. All the disasemble is done Now the cleaning, aranging and organizing everything starts. Then get down to the bare metal. Started to build a rotisserie with two Motorlifts. will see how this works out.

Would be interested in one set 240z

If I wanted a Montreal I would have one.

I thought exactly the same. I do need to change just the wheels and the muffler on my 59 Corvette every 6 years and this is already enough. If I loose a bit oh well. that's live. I like to do work on my car with a sense behind it but not otherwise.

if it's to mutch you loose the classic car status and go back to test every 2 years.

I do need to show the car every 2 years except if it can pass as classic car. Then I would need to show the car every 6 years but would be allowed to drive only 3000 miles /year. Im at the F1 Race in Valencia at the moment and will be back next week with the ideas i wrote down.

After another 6 Month of reading and preparation the rebuild finaly started. Disassembled the hole suspension. The first decisions made are Install new Springs From I don't know yet and Illumina Shocks from Tokico Bigger front break kit and Rear Disc conversion and all bushings in urethan. Pictures to come

XNKE Thanks for your inputs. The Z market here is extreemly small. 240 arrived 43 times in Switzerland for example if I'm not wrong informed. To find parts not so easy and just one Racer with some knowledge. I think I have to look for parts and shops outside of the country anyways. HS-30H Youre right it is a Europe version with a 5 Gear. What do you mean with Paper you can help? and do you know someone with a Z not "Factory like" in Switzerland?

No, not at all this speaks as well for rebello.

Matching Block (not serial number) and according head. Intake and exhaust are not checked (just noise), but headers are not allowed. Carbed, because EFI didn't exist. Max HC is 1500 and max Co is 2.5. Gasoline grade is 98 Ron = 93 or 94 AKI (US) They have a tec doc with where to find numbers, and how it looks like all the sizes/lenght and diameters. For example I will try to show up with tripple Webers and hope there is nothing written in it.

I'm a bit further with my research on how to... There is still a problem. I can not install any headers. Is there a way to "open" the stock manifold to flow better? I could not find to much informations on that. There is a long way of research and calculations before I can even Start to buy parts The summary till now: Rebello = 6k + shippement 1k or 2k Bore and hone here 2K Head here (no porting involved) 2k Pistons Crank Rods here 2k Parts for Head incl. Cam here 500 Build the engine here without porting 6500$ Compared to a rebello between 6k and 8k incl. ported head and tuned carbs. Looks like the engine will be shipped to the US and back. Sort of crazy but makes sense. Any thoughts?

240zip Your engine would be nice but I hope a stroked overbored l24 will be nearly as fun to drive. The engine bay looks nice as well. The more I see and read the more im excited about the endresult. The Flywheel is one mod for shure. The differential would be the STI one but I have to check, if they look equal. I'm thinking of rebuilding both my tripple Weber (I bought them 20 years ago but never used them) and the SUs. I'm going to try to build a stock looking Airfilter housing and hope they don't know what was stock. otherwise use the SUs. Thanks for helping in the deciding process.

This looks exactly the way im going to do it. good job. I didn't research for a differential conversion yet.

The Rebello engine looks tempting... but for shure not cheap. I do have two engines and don't want to buy another one. First I have to check for the price incl. shipping to the states and back. Compare this to our machine work prices in Switzerland which are much higher and then decide if I go with rebello or do it myself. Yes Im going to upgrade the suspension and a rear disc Brake conversion. I hope the 5 gear box is strong enough, because again I can just upgrade the internals. The exhaust is the next problem I will need to build it without headers but best flow possible. My goal is like with my other restorations i have done. Not a single screw not touched.

Im starting to rebuild my 72 240 Im from Switzerland and its difficult to change/up power here. I need to have matching parts (visible). I know after reading and searching a lot here and at classic zcar. Nobody suggests to upgrade the l24. But that's exactly what I HAVE to do. My idea is to stroke and overbore (1.5mm) it to 2.7 with a mild cam and mild porting. Im starting this tread to ask some questions and show the progress.