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munters

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Everything posted by munters

  1. munters
    I wonder why nobody tries the jenvey Heritage ?
  2. munters
    If you talk about whp and na then you have to go all in to reach 100hp/l. Head work and cam.
  3. munters
    I guess the best is to talk to dave rebello. He has all grinds to fit your needs.
  4. munters
    Im running 480 lift with Original springs from rebello.
  5. munters
    One more thing to say. Did you ever drive a Turbo Z? Im saying this because the "Funfactor" depends on where you drive. I have a 274 BHP N/A Z and a 450 AWHP BMW. on twisted roads the N/A Z is so much more fun to drive then the Turbo BMW. on a light signal start or highway its the Turbo. Drive both types if you can and see what suits you best. (Gear change point at 7500 N/A with the sound of tripples is one of the best things I ever had -->The smile is much bigger with the Z...).
  6. munters
    There are gear reduction starters direct plug in. Smaller, lighter, faster.
  7. munters
    I went with forged pistons and there is no noise at warm up. The price difference was like 500 if I remember correctly. Dave offers both
  8. munters
    Hello Chris This should help I used this to connect the painless wiring
  9. munters
    Double Post
  10. munters
    With a right click on them there is no menu and it opens a popup to save it. A right click on the ppopup you can save or sourcecode, but no open in new tab. this makes this photobucket links so useless.
  11. munters
    Yup no pictures...
  12. munters
    I would like to OEM Eurospec lip in Urethan (Like Originally) and not FRP. Im even thinking of buying one frp and make mold for a urethan version.
  13. munters
    Double post
  14. munters
    Thanks for your opinions The Engune has now 5000 miles. No smoke and it does not need any oil since 3000miles (last change) The carbs are within 0.5 synched with the sk tool I do have a strange behavier. Idle is at 10:1 afr and transition is at 12.5. If i change the idle to 13:1, the transition is to lean.(16:1) One carb shoots then back sometines. I have to play more with keith franks airleaks.
  15. munters
    Hello Chickenman Thanks for your help My engine is a Stroked L24 2753, Forged Piston, Billet Connecting rods, Compression 10:1, "mild" 227 Cam. .480 lift, Ported Head E88 with bigger valves from L28 Fidenza Flywheel with 240mm Clutch, Triple 45 Weber with Keith Franks Hypojets (H-26) and Obert E-tubes, 123 Ignition with Crane Hi-6s and LX-91 Coil. The Cables are 7mm high temperature with conductive silicone core and silicone jacket r883 from Import Direct Do you have an idea, what this unequal coloring could be?
  16. munters
    Hello Could you give me your thoughts about the Spark plugs? Thiis is after 600Miles of driving (I never checked so soon / have no reference.) I know the coulour plugs should have, but what I have in mind is quite equal all around. What could couse this difference around the electrode? Thanks for your input Marcel
  17. munters
    Congrats for your being back on the road. Do you know LiFeYPo4 Batterie? as compact, more secure and "just" 30% of the cost. Im using it now for 5000 miles. I would never go back to gel or liquid batteries.
  18. munters
    Yes, I run them. The first big improovement are the Hypojets (Idlejet replacement). This is a really nice of idle driving change. The obert Tubes are far better main jets and do not have a lean top as any Weber main jets. (I was able to optain a 12.5:1 at 7500, my high shifting point.) With this 2 the car runs already nice. If you have an off idle (progression holes) quick changing AFR, you can use his third Jets, which are airleaks in the progression cirquit. They will give a nice steady acceleration in the transition between the Idle and main cirquit. (I could lower my consumptions by 2L/100km with those alone) Leon knows those Jets really well and he talked to keith in person if I remember correctly. Hope this helps Marcel
  19. munters
    This dyno curve is quite typical. Transition idle jet to main jet. You can change this a lot with keith franks hypos(idle) and obert e-tubes(main) or the new bb tubes(main). Pulls like a injected engine afterwords.
  20. munters
    http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/102748-build-after-24-years/
  21. munters
    Take a look at my build. 1mm over, stroked 2.8 crank 275 bhp.
  22. munters
    Is it when slowly open throttle off idle coffing back throug the carbs? If so, then the coffing carb is to lean. I just fixed this 5 min ago.
  23. munters
    Im using a 330 and its just fine. The z is a light car. You can still see spedo and tach.
  24. munters
    Im driving a n54 with 450hp since 100kmiles with the first pump. The Problem is the gas in the us with this pump. It has been adressed by other companies in the us and works as well.
  25. munters
    You can also buy a package from Rebello. He sells kits with cast or forged pistons. The price he gave for the kit blow was "arround 2k" in 2011 You can buy our stroker kit. It comes with a stroked L28 crank (81mm) forged J&E piston, billet long rods and engine bearings. We usually go about 1.5mm over bore which will give you a 2720cc engine. We have gone further on the over bore but you need to sonic test the cylinders.
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