Tony240ZT

February 11, 2002

I see it. Pretty cool low budget setup. When are you going to install an electric pump on it? Is there an easy way to make the fuel bowl larger? Could you drop on a larger carb if you had to?

It'll be interesting to see how it does after you can get tracktion.

Are you going to install an A/F ratio gauge in the truck?

February 10, 2002

What kinda exhaust manifold is that? Is it a non turbo exhaust manifold that has been modified to fit a turbo?

What kind and size is the turbo? Looks pretty healthy

February 10, 2002

3/8 NPT tap, 3/8 NPT to -6 AN, and then some -6 push on hose fitting/red nifty hose.

I'm using an Accel inline fuel pump, and will use the stock feed line as my return line for now.

February 10, 2002

Picked up this HKS intercooler for an okay deal, so I will be running it in my car with the 7m-gte engine.

Comments?

February 8, 2002

I was hunting all over for one in the bone yard today (no luck). I can settle for a used one as long as it is strait. I will probably call around some more for a used one, but may go with the griffen.

The part number you listed there, is it the one with the automatic tranny cooler built in or no? I'm running a 5 speed, so I won't be needing one.

DigitalZ what did you use for the top mount? Is it necessary to mount it back as far as you did? I will be running a inline 6 (7m-gte) with intercooler piping behind the radiator so room is important.

February 8, 2002

The drain plug hole is tiny. It's 1/2", but that doesn't leave very much meat for a good sized ID. I would highly suggest drilling and taping it to a 3/8" NPT. I'm going to do it in the morning. I have a 9/16" drill bit and the 3/8 NPT tap. Also have a 90 degree 3/8 NPT to -6AN, a -6 push on fitting and some cool red hose.

February 5, 2002

I just completed a swap into my `73 240Z. So, the wiring is still pretty fresh in my mind. I tried documenting some of it on my web page under the `73 L24ET page. Check it out, and email me if you have any other questions.

February 2, 2002

Okay, I was dumb. All you have to do is solder on an AN fitting to a hard line, it's no big deal.

On my supra engine (7m-gte) I'm sticking with the stock fuel rail for the time being so I put a -6 AN fitting onto the 3/8" hard line for the feed, and will be hooking up my return line to the 240Z stock feed line, which I think is 5/16".

When I get a custom fuel rail I'll upgrade to -8 feed and probably keep the -6 for return. I'm using an Aceel inline pump that is good for up to 500hp. I would be very happy with 450hp at the crank. I've upgraded injectors to 550cc/min, I've got a good HKS intercooler, just need to upgrade my turbo. Was hoping to get some millage out of my CT-26 by upgrading the compressor to a to4 60-1

The SS braided line looks nice, but I think I'm going to use the kind that is wrapped in cloth (Earl's Super Stock) because of the price difference. It has no problem flowing fuel, and is good for up to 250psi, plus I can get it in red to match my other high lights. The hose works with the Super Stock fitting which is a press on type, or Auto Fit ones, which are the type that press on and then are compressed by screwing on the sleeve.

February 1, 2002

At one time Arizona Z car did have a pretty cool custom intake manifold with the throttle body in the middle facing inward. I really wanted for them to make one up for me, but the guy is stuck on only making suspetion/brake parts now.

I was going to make myself up a custom sheetmetal intake manifold, but went with a different engine instead. I would like to at some point make a custom aluminum sheet metal intake manifold for my current project, but not until it will make any difference.

I agree, you can have your stock bungs machined out to the size you'd like.

February 1, 2002

Where can you get such a deal on 720cc/min injectors?

All you have to do is just make a custom rail, and bolt it down so it pushes the injectors into place and makes a seal on the O-Rings.

A custom intake manifold shouldn't be needed. Check out my For Sale link on my web page for a pretty cool J-Spec intake manifold.

January 29, 2002

So, when's the twin setup going to be running? We've been waiting so long to hear about it

I'm sure it will be awesome.

January 29, 2002

Very cool, may want to note if they have barbed fitting or O-Ringed press in fitting.. I have a set of the Supra turbo ones and Mercedes, I'll get some pictures real quick.

Mercedes 450SEL:

Supra Turbo:

January 28, 2002

I have a stock 280ZX Turbo that I have fully rebuilt, it looks like new. I'm trying to sell it for $240 + shipping.

Your best bet really is the junk yard. If you can find a car that has been in an accedent, where it looks like the car was running up until that point then that's probably an okay engine to stick into your car. If you want a like new engine then just refresh the timing gear, bearings, rings, seals, do a valve job, replace retainers, ect..

Sure you can do bolt ons around your block, but your long block wasn't designed for the flow characteristics of forced induction.

Check out the haynes manual on how to test the individual components of the EFI system, and if you test everything before you walk out of the junk yard and find that it is all good, then you are getting a great deal.

January 28, 2002

`87-`92 Toyota Supra Turbo has 440cc/min injectors I have a set if someone is interested, they are low impedence, non turbos have like 370cc/min

MKIV Supra Turbo's have 550cc/min and non turbos have 440cc/min

Just had to add these into the list.

January 26, 2002

I adapted an `83 L28ET setup to my L24, I didn't use the air bypass stuff, and I don't have EGR. So I was wondering since in the turbo setup the TPS only seems to care if the throttle body is closed (it only has two wires and terminals in the TPS plug to sensor only when it's closed). Is it necessary to even have a TPS with my setup? If so, for what reason?

I know my `81 NA won't rev over 2500rpm if I have the TPS unplugged, but I don't think this is the case for the turbo cars.

Thanks.

January 25, 2002

Anyone remember Hoover's red G noze beast? He had a custom forged crank, forged rods/pistons, lots of porting, custom cast intake manifold, custom turbo header, stand alone engine management, custom ground cam, larger valves. He had Rebello build it all for him, must of had big bucks to do that. He was at one time making 500rwhp with the prepped L series block.

I would bet that James Thagard will be making some awesome numbers as soon as his new twin turbo setup is finished. Sun Belt built his engine, another Nissan guru group. He, too, has a custom crank, forged rods/pistons.

Both guys are 3.0-3.2L stretchers.

I think it would be cool to say you have "the ultimate L series engine", but honestly the 1/4 mile times and such don't care what engine got you from point A to B in a period of time. I think if you can do the job and have some money in your pocket after you're done, that's the way to do it.

After saying that, I'd like to make the most power a L24 block has ever made in my `73

January 23, 2002

I should have my Wolf in hand by next week and I'll fill you in on the new things v4.0 has. Data loggin is there, you can hook a PC up to the system to help visualize things better than with the hand held controler. They suggest using a PC to get things started.

Wolf has an external memory card that is standard with the kit. It allows you to switch between two totally different setting (main memory, and this external memory card). You can also save as many different map settings as you'd like to your pc, and buy more memory cards.

January 22, 2002

Very nice setup. I'd love to get my hands on a NPR IC for a good price. Sounds like you'll have no problems hitting that 300hp mark, and no reason why you can't hit 350hp.

I feel outa place here, seems like all of the action is going on in florida, what's up with that?

I would have loved to have dropped a 2jz-gte in. I actually came VERY close, if it weren't for the fact that check cards don't allow you to take out more than $1,000 a day then I'd have one in my garage. I got a call the next day after ordering, and I just thought to myself $2,900 for the engine, not including the tranny, elctronics, IC. Just couldn't justify it in my mind, so I didn't call back. I ordered the 7m-gte the next day locally, for less than $900 dropped into my garage, $200 for a tranny, and now I have a LOT of money for mods.

Keep us updated on the progress of your engine setup. I get the feeling that it has a lot more potential than you know.

January 22, 2002

Is it just me, or is their system pretty dang expencive? I priced out a complete setup for my L28ET with them and it ended up being around $3,300 shipping.

I ended up getting a Wolf3D v4.0 for around $1,500 complete and shipped for my 7m-gte.

Anyone else had a price quote done for the new Electromotive setup? It looks real nice, good enough for show, but the billet, anodized aluminum isn't a necesity. Plus where's the built in boost controler, hand heald LCD display with key pad for real time data/mods, key code security system?

If anyone can help me understand this price difference please fill me in. I understand that the coil packs are included with the TEC3, and they are an option with the Wolf3D, but most multi coil pack systems out there in OEM applications can be had cheaply and perform very well.

January 21, 2002

Can't wait to see pics of the headers, and intake setup.

January 21, 2002

Thanks, glad you like orange Can't say it's my favorite color, but this car doesn't get keyed like the `72 does. These are some parts I had left over from thinking about doing a stroked turbo setup in my `72. I ended up buying a Toyota 7m-gte for the `72 for the DOHC and it's already 3.0L. I figured if the `73 car will keep up with, or be faster than my `87 Supra Turbo I'll sell off the Supra and make this car my daily driver. Supra parts are a bit more expencive, along with insurance, registration, and I have to smog the car every 2 years.

What engine management system are running? Have you ran the engine with the engine management system yet? What kind of performance are you looking to get out of your car? I see the hole for the BOV what type are you going to be installing? I'm probably going to put on one of those Bosche ones on. What size of injectors are you running?

I'd love to see more info about your car up on your web page. My 7m-gte will be managed by Wolf3D v4.0, as soon as I can get my hands on a unit. I have a 5 speed tranny, with a TRD clutch, an Accel fuel pump, and 550cc/min injectors will feed the hungry engine. Hope to install ARP head studs/metal head gasket, and upgrade the stock turbo before the end of this year.

January 21, 2002

Now that I have my L24ET setup running, I was wondering if there was a way to see if all of the sensors are working with the ecu correctly. I know in the 280ZX Turbo there is a dash light for "Sensor" I think this is for the o2 sensor in particular. Is there a easy way to read this kind of error message, or have a light turn on if something is wrong? What other error info can the ECU provide about sensors?

Has anyone found out how the o2 sensor works with the system. I know with some systems it varries the voltage it allows to pass through, and each amount tells the ECU to either richen or lean out the mixture. I'd like to get things setup correctly so that the o2 sensor is telling the ecu to do little adjusting. I'm assuming this would be the best way to have things running.

Thanks for any info, and the the o2 sensor is a single wire, and the ecu system is off of a `83 280ZX Turbo

January 21, 2002

I have no idea if the knock sensor I have off of this `83 280ZX Turbo is good or not. It doesn't read any resistance when I test between the two terminals. Is this normal? Is there a way to test it? If I just leave it unplugged is this the same as having no knocking or the same as having constant knocking?

January 21, 2002

Got my `83 L28ET efi setup running on my L24ET today. I've got some things to finish up before I can drive it around, but it idles and revs well. I found that the Air Flow Meter was set to make the car run way too rich to begin with, so I loosened up the bypass screw, and messed around with the tention of the spring.

Over near the battery is a green relay with a brown wire, this needs to be hooked up to the possitive side of the battery, also there is a green wire that needs to be hooked up there as well. If you cut off the green relay then the black with wite wires need to be put to the possitive side.

There is a plug that used to plug into the chassi harness with 6 terminals. You will need trace the wires in your book to make sure they are the correct ones to use. There is a black one that should be grounded, a Yellow one that needs power while cranking and while on, there is also a yellow white wire that goes over to the coil ecu signal amp. The black white wire that plugs into the coil ecu signal amp needs power, and the amp gets ground by being bolted down to the chassi (this was my mistake).

Let me know if you have any other questions. Again I used a setup off of a `83 280ZX Turbo, which has the crank angle built into the distro. I noticed my ecu light turns off when the car is turned on, I don't know if this is correct.

January 20, 2002

If the AFM door was stuck wide open then that was probably the majority of your problem. I'd love to see how you mounted your AFM.

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Posts posted by Tony240ZT