Tony240ZT
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Posts posted by Tony240ZT
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If you need a pot type TPS the 240SX KA24 engines have one that bolt right on that are pot type.
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You should have no problem with clearance. If you want use the pan you have and put a drain hole on the side of it for the oil return. I had to do this when turbo charging my L24, since the L28ET pan does not swap on to the L24 block easily.
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Can someone verify the size of the Mercedes 450SL injectors, I hear all sorts of different sizes. I've heard 370cc/min 390cc/min 420cc/min and now 450cc/min?
I have them installed in my car (`73 w/L24ET), they are too big for my application. I think I'll be going with 370cc/min. I *THINK* the Mercedes injectors are 420cc/min.
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Z-Freak I'd like to see pictures of that, sounds pretty awesome.
Mark, Volvo used to be known for having a sedan (the 740 turbo) that was able to keep up with the Porsche GT car of the day (944 Turbo). Even though that was pretty cool, the stock level of boost that was run was still only a mild 6-7psi of boost (I think), so the intercooler was never really stressed as much in stock form as we guys would stress our custom built machines.
I still have yet to hear first hand experience with people having these intercooler leak on them, but have heard first hand experience about them doing well.
I personally sold a Volvo IC, and kept my starion IC. I still need to weld some end pipes on it though. If any of you guys could do the welding cheaply for me let me know. I'd like to stick it in the car.
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I'd powder coat the iron part if it would take the heat, just not sure that it would. Also, I don't think you can take the valve out very easily. The aluminum can stay, the the steel breather on the top I'll paint black.
It's not internally adjustable, but I do have an electric boost controler built into my engine management system to modulate the vacuum.
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Thanks for the info guys. I found one in a junk yard, pulled it today out of a 924 Porsche Turbo. What a pain!!! That things is really hard to get out. Well, all the work on pulling it is worth it since I convinced the yard it was an EGR valve (a large one, hehe). So, I got a good deal on it. Took it home, took it part and bead blasted it, and here it is:
Wonder if I can get rebuild seal parts for it. Anyone know? Should I hook the vacuum line up to the compressor housing of the turbo, or up to the intake manifold?
My CT-26 has a built in waste gate door, so I'll stick with it until I upgrade turbos, at which point I'll make up the piping to hook this guy up.
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Scotty Mitz is running one, running around 18psi of boost with great results. I've heard bad things about the plastic end tanks, but Scotty put it to real world use in his turbo 280Z that make me believe it may be worth using.
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Anyone have anything good or bad to say about the 944/924 external waste gates? Here is one on ebay right now:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/ebayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1826647095&r=0&t=0
I found one locally, and was thinking of using it on my 7m-gte along with a full t4.. Not sure if it would flow enough exhaust, but it is tons larger than any of the waste gate ports that I've seen on T3's. I think the ports are a little under 2"
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I don't have gas hooked up to my MIG, but haven't noticed any difference between welding on non aluminized and aluminized steel. The weld will rust of not covered.
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Here are some pictures that I took at the show
http://www.zhome.com/~aktar/msa/
Yeah, I'll admit a dirty set of SU's on an L6 don't do much for me anymore.
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I just got back from the show. Lots of great cars, got some good pictures. I didn't get there until around noon and wasn't too active. Took my `73 240Z piece with the L24ET, which ran really strong. Saw lots of v8 hybrids, no RB engine swaps though. There was a Skyline with a RB26DETT, and a Silvia converted 240SX. Let me know if you saw my car. I'll post a picture below. It had a grey primered hood.
A white Z32, red Z32, and a maroon Z31 all headed north with me on I5. Hopefully next year I'll have my `72 all together so I won't feel like I have such an ugly duckling.
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Swapping to a Z31 300ZX wiring harness, computer, sensors will allow for this. There are a hand full of people who have done the swap and who are happy with the results. I have the parts in hand, but am not sure if I'm going to be doing the swap. My current setup is off of a `83 280ZX Turbo, and the Z31 parts I have are off of a `85 300ZX Turbo.
If you find more info on the Z31 stuff swap pass it on.
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Geeze! Everyone trying to make their cars look like mine. Looks like I'm going to have try something else to be more unique
Looks good Scotty
Anyone used this body kit along with flares? Any ideas on how you could make it look right? I really want to do flares in the back of my `72, but not sure it will look right.
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My web page has a bit of wiring:
http://www.zhome.com/~aktar/zcar/73/turbofi/
The plug with the yellow, and yellow white wires has 2 sets, and one of the sets is not used by the ECU.. I need to draw a picture of how to differ from the two sets. It would help you a lot if you got a 280ZX haynes book. What I did was photo copy the chassis wiring diagram, then taped them together.
Keep in mind that the H2O sensors are not used by the ECU.. I didn't use the EGR, or the air bypass wires. Also, I did not use the fuel pump modulating system, and just hooked the fuel pump to come on while cranking and while in the on possition.
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850cc/min!!!! Man have you already gone big single? Thought you had a lot of other things that you'd have to do before you started going that large..
Cool to hear about the AEM deal. The Wolf3D is made by AEM, but doesn't have multiple O2 or support for knock sensors, but I think it is more flexable. I will have to compare stats on the two.
What clutch are you using? Do you plan on going with a big single turbo? If so what exhaust manifold, and what size turbo, and what size waste gate? What size are the stock injectors? I'd think that 550cc/min with an adjustable fpr would get you pretty far, probably good enough for the stock twin setup.
Whelp, think I found a job today, so I'll be putting money away for a single T4 for my 7m-gte. Not sure if my TRD clutch will hold long with it though, which is sad since its bran new. Still have a couple other things to do first, like finish up the CV swap, swap in a LSD, and larger brakes. A intercooler for the `73 w/L24ET would be nice too.
If I were you I'd be dumping all that $$$ into that light Z car.. The supra is just way too heavy, and I know you want to see 10's
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JT is correct. The one sensor with the short pig tail wire sticking out is the thermotine switch for the fan that blows on the fuel injectors, and the other one is the temp senosr for the gauge. These do not effect the computer in any way.
Scotty used a non turbo efi system on his b2000, although it was turboed.. The non turbo system is much more easily adapted to a different car because of the fact that it uses the negative side of the coil as a trigger for the fuel injectors, rather than a crank angle sensor setup. This means that it could be adapted to a 4 cylinder engine, or even a 8 cylinder engine very easily. The non turbo setup does use an H2O sensor.
Check that your turbo spins freely, that you don't have vacuum leaks (like a leaky BOV), check that you have your boost controler installed correctly (so that it isn't acting as a one way check valve, rather a bleed off system). Also, check your timing, and it may even be worth checking that your cam timing is correct. Your chain could have slipped if your tentioner isn't working correctly, or if your chain has streched a bunch, or if you have shaved your head a bunch without raising the cam towers.
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Maybe you could mate a different tranny up to the engine, to make it rear wheel drive only.. I mean why not just fab up a way to bolt in a T5 tranny using a modified bell housing?
The stock engine mounts would have to go, and new ones would have to be fabbed some how. It might be hard to fab the mounts because the turbos may be in the way, but with the accesories out of the way it may give room.
By the way guys, I think I have my `95 3000GT sold finally. My mistake was to buy a base model when everyone out in the world considering buying a 3000GT at this point wants a VR4 because the prices have dropped drastricly. 2 1/2" years ago I bought my 50K mile 3000GT for $17K and now I'm selling for $9,900 with only 10K miles put on the car! I should have invested in a 3rd gen RX7, or a MKIV Supra. I'm unhappy but I guess if I would have held onto the car much longer I would have lost even more money.. SO, these engines can probably be had for cheap. Buy a whole `90 3000GT VR4 with a busted tranny, or blown head gasket, freshen up the engine stick it in your Z, then part out the car. You will probably end up making money (almost like someone paid you to install the engine in your car).
Things to consider, the timing belt should be changed every 60K miles. These engines are a pain in the ass to do maintenence on. To change the timing chain you have to undo the engine mount. To change the back spark plugs you have to take off the intake manifold!
Not a fun engine to work on, but has great potential. Because of the AWD in those cars they can really hook up well. They are heavy bastards though.
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Can someone tell me how much the Apex deal is? Does anyone know how to wire one into the 280ZX Turbo wiring harness? What exactly does it modify? Is it voltage, or resistance at given RPMs? Has anyone been able to make a lot more horse power from being able to tune in the stock system better, or should you only expect minor horse power differences?
I think I'll probably just buy another wiring harness for my Wolf3D and install it into my `73, swapping back and forth between the `72 - `73, but would be nice to not have to worry about it, and if I ever wanted to sell the car I would have to buy another Wolf3D system, so that wouldn't be any fun.
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What kind of tool is the best to cut into sheet metal like that? Any tricks to keeping it really strait?
Can't wait to see what you end up doing with the front. Do you think you will be making a scoop by hand (fiber glass?), or will you finish it off with more of that SS vent stuff?
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Just to back up RatedZ's words, I have the same the gauge installed and working on my L24ET using the same O2 sensor. It has done great things for me while setting up my car.
Where do you think you'll be mounting yours?
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I'd like a hood, rear hatch, and possibly fenders. The door panels sound tempting too. Would be cool to get the door pannels and do a mix of carbon fiber and vynal/leather.
The body stuff would be to loose weight, while interior parts would be for looks.
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I don't know that I can be of much help. I've run fuel injection setups in cars where I used the stock carb pick up where I could get down to a 1/8th of a tank and then would have to fill up if I wanted to run strong around corners.
With my drain hole pickup I only need like a 1/2 gallon of fuel to run.
Could your filter before the pump be too restrictive? You might want to consider using a screen type filter there. Also, the manufacture of the fuel pump should have suggested ways of mounting, follow them. Follow the way your pump was installed in the car it came out of if you pulled it out of another car.
You may find that this is a pump problem that is hard to explain unless you just swap it out. There are no reasons that suggest you should have a problem.
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Both heads are great for turboing.. If you want a low compression head for an NA motor then the P90 is probably your best bet only because it will allow you to run a more wild cam without the chance of bleading down, and it is said that the P90A bleeds down at RPMs over 6500, and with wild cams with super strong valve springs.
In a turbo setup where you don't run wild cams, and the need for super strong springs isn't there either head is just fine. The P90A doesn't require adjusting and is super quiet, so if you know that your P90A doesn't have any bad lifters then I'd stick with it.
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I'm liking the light blue car, with the matching RB engine trim. Interesting the way they welded up the intercooler piping. Had to be a lot of work welding each peice in every 2" or so.
Do you think that is a NPR intercooler polished out and slightly modified on that white car? Looks nice.
No more nice RB engine swaps please, you're making want to sell my 7m-gte and pick up a rb26dett
I'm thinking of making a fiber glass cover to go over my 2 valve covers, kinda like the way the RB engine and the 2JZ engines are. I think it looks real nice, then paint it the same color as the car.
Are those lizards tasty? They look so plump! I could just imagine it in a frying pan with a bunch of butter.. mmmmm..
Toyota 4 Piston Caliper under 14" wheels
in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis
Posted
The non vented rotor setup fits pretty easily. My 14x7 slotted mags fit the non slotted rotor without a problem. Currently have a set of 280ZX Turbo rims on with no prob