Tony240ZT
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Posts posted by Tony240ZT
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Ouch, how long ago did that happen, and are the frame rails messed up? Are you going to fix it soon?
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I see, I guess I was pulling power from there for my coil. Big mistake. Brian Little's page says it is power to the coil, but I guess just for the points is possible, too.
Anyways, my 3 speed auto is not taking the power very well. Anyone know where a link to the starion 4 speed tranny upgrade is available? I think you just take the bell housing from a maxima, the complete tranny from the starion - bell housing, drive line from maxima, then have to shorten drive line a little. Does this sound right?
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I think I've seen that before. If Nissan would have done that there probably be less Zs that were taken by rust, and more that were taken out by trees, power polls, etc.
I've seen so many images of the 240Z in a wind tunnel like that, so why weren't they more aerodynamic?!
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Anyone have pics of the Cartech one, is it setup to bolt on a commen external waste gate? What turbo flange is on it?
Why doesn't someone like MSA start mass producing these things and selling them for like $200? How much more expencive could a turbo header cost to make over a NA one? I'd think less since there is less metal. I can see having an external waste gate option being more. Is the main reason because people might want different sized flanges for the different turbos. I think a t3 flange would be just fine for the masses, making room for a hybrid compressor.
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The SS stuff sounds tempting, but I'd actually be more interested in something not so pretty and at a good price.
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I saw the sports compact article. I think I still have it laying around. It's been a while since I've read it, but what I remember is that this guys car just wasn't setup right. They said the transition between the two just wasn't correct, very un-natural, and hard to drive. The idea sounds kind of nice on paper, low end boosted torque combined with high end more efficient turbo boost, but as you know if something sounds too good to be true it usually is
If you want torque and a good amount of boost I'd go with the GN engine. It's a good sized V6 and has great potential. A friend of mine has a GN and we were comparing my Supra Turbo to it. We both set our cars to 10 pounds of boost, and we both have about the same mods. The GN had tons more torque and was much more responsive, even with a slightly larger turbo.
You could always turbo a v8, but I think the GN package is just proven so well.
One idea to consider about torque and light Z cars: traction. Turbo lag can be a good thing for us since traction isn't such an issue without gobs of low end torque. The lagged power gets the car moving before boost comes on and gets traction easier.
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There are 2 bolts on the hood latch, located on the hood, if you loosen them you can slide it foward.
Just takes a 10mm wrench or socket, could be 12mm.. anyways pretty strait foward can't mess anything up if you do it yourself.
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My `72 will do the same thing. It's gotta be from flex. You can adjust the latch forward a little to have more meat engaged. Wish I knew what it was called, but anyways I think this is why people install supports from the firewall to the shock towers.
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I just read a post where someone was asking about swapping in a later model distributor without points. Had a friend ask about doing the swap, and I couldn't give much info, so I checked out the link before sending it over to him. I read about the Ballast Resistor. I knew what it was, but didn't know how it worked exactly. From Brian Little's site it states that the coil gets a full 12-14V while the car is cranking to help start, but then when the key goes back into the on possition the resistor is put between the possitive power wire to the coil reducing the voltage output to like 6-8 volts. This is so that the stock coil won't over heat.
Well, I'm not running the old coil anymore in the `73 w/L24ET, and I have had problems reving past 5.5K RPMs and running rich under heavy load. I bypassed the ballast resistor and took it for a drive and noticed a BIG difference
The car was actually running lean now that it can burn all of the fuel, and the mid to high range power has a large improvement. I dialed in more fuel and it converted the added fuel into more power.
If any of you guys have converted over to the more modern coils, or aftermarket coils then I think you're free to take the resistor out of there, and here come the big grins
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JDM engines go for around $800. They are 30K mileage engines shipped from Japan, the tranny is another $250 I think.. Mine didn't come with a starter or alternator, but sometimes they come complete with all accessories.
The stock intercooler can be found for about $80-$120 on ebay.
I would highly suggest not going with the stock EFI system, because it takes a lot of money to get it past 290hp. If you're content with 290hp then you can probably find a used harness and ecu for around $120-$200. The cars are starting to show up in the junk yards, so if you were really lucky you could find a high mileage engine plus harness, accessories, tranny for under $500.
Then fab up the commen things that you'd have to do with most engine swaps, like drive line, engine/tranny mounts, wiring, exhaust. Add in the intercooler piping, hoses, and clamps.
I think this swap will become really popular. It's the cheapest turbo, inline 6, DOHC engine out there right now that has a very high potential. Lots of Z guys dig Z cars because of the inline 6, but then a lot of guys dig v8's.
If the L series engine was DOHC I would have stuck with it. I wish someone would make one, I'd buy 2.
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My `73 with no A/C, no smog, 3 speed auto weighed in at 2350, everything else was stock (SU's and such). A friend of mine went in at the same place with his `73 without a front bumper or grill, no smog, no A/C, header, holley carb setup, 5 speed tranny and weighed in 100 pounds lighter than my car. The `73 bumper mounts are pretty heavy (which he took off), and I think the manual tranny and headers made up the rest of weight savings.
I should go back and see if the fuel injection/turbo charger added much weight. I'd say I've put on another 40-50 pounds with the efi components, turbo, oil cooler, and soon to be intercooler.
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Is there anything special about the bosses? Couldn't you just drill holes in the rail to the exact ID as the bosses that you might weld in? I'm not REALLY familiar with all of the O-ring setups, but on my Supra engine the bosses are just simiply machined out holes, which would be easy to make if you had a drill press.
I guess this is only possible if you have enough meat there to work with. Lots of rails I've seen are D shaped and allow for this.
I have the 500hp Accel pump installed in my `72 w/7M-GTE. I don't see why you'd have a problem with it, I haven't pushed it to 500hp, but maybe some day, hehe.. It sells for a pretty good price. I think it has 3/8" fittings on it, I used it with the -6 hosen.
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If only I could weld as well as that job that was done on that custom catch can! Everything on that car is too perfect. I saw it at the MSA get together, I had to drool all over it.
Looks like the carbon fiber/kevlar? intake boot was cracked at one point though, then fixed with an epoxy. That must have been frustrating, it was a perfect piece before then.
Whelp, I've pulled out the 401K money, so the 7m-gte should be done soon. I know, I'm bad..
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The swap was about as difficult as putting in a v8 engine with a transmission that fit without any mods to the tunnel. The engine cleared everything with no modifications. The engine is very low, and very far back. It is actually shorter than the L6 engine, and I have the valve cover about 2 inches from the fire wall.
Right now I don't have a drive line hooked up, but the engine runs. I need to finish the driver's side intercooler piping, and clean up my wiring harness a little. I'm using Wolf3D for engine management.
I'm expecting 320hp with the stock turbo (@ the crank). I've upgraded the fuel system, HKS FMIC, ignition system should be better than stock, so as soon as I can get that turbo upgraded I should be making close to 400hp at the crank with the modified stock turbo. This will be with stock internals and ARP head studs. If I want more power then I'd need to swap out my turbo for a completely new larger one. I guess 600hp with forged pistons is a commen horse power number. I'd be be happy with 400.
Looking for low 11's in the 1/4.
Hopefully I'll be finished before the end of this month.
If you look closely you'll see the engine is behind the front sway bar.
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You're going from VG30ET to VG30DET in your 280Z? Is it a matter of a head swap, along with timing gear, or full engine swap from a Z32?
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Sweet! That'll look nice in the engine compartment. Let me know when you get the Mercedes injectors. I'm guessing Monday they should be there? Sorry that they weren't there before this weekend, but we live SO far apart.
Post pics of the modified Mercedes throttle body install, and the install of the hybrid turbo when you get them mounted.
Will you be using the stock FPR, a modified stock one, or aftermarket one? If you want good cruising gas mileage I think you'll want to lower the base presure.
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Was thinking of installing an oil catch can for the PVC system, so that the oil stuff doesn't get into my intake system.
I think I could make one if I was clear on how it should work. As far as I know you hook up a good sized vacuum hose to a container at the top probably, then put any PVC hoses at the bottom of the container? What do you do with the caught oil? How do you keep the oil in the can. I guess the oil is pretty particlized, so gravity isn't going to simply keep it from staying down at the bottom. Do you use a paper filter that you replace?
Well, as you see I'm pretty clueless. Fill me in on how to fab one up.
Thanks!
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The systems are similar, Wolf has been around for a little while longer in Austrailia. v4.0 came out about the same time AEM made the PnP run one that uses stock sensors.
Were you able to rid of your mass air flow meter in doing the ecu swap? I'd hope so. I know the system is suppose to work with the stock sensors, but who wants a mass air flow sensor when it's not necessary and kinda restictive.
I'd like to see pics of the intercooler. When are you going single turbo t04R?
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Fuel pressure could possibly be low enough to make a problem like this. A dying fuel pump, stuffed line, or stuffed fuel filter could make it so not enough fuel could flow. Might be worth checking to see if you have enough presure.
The 2250 rpm limit sounds so familiar. Having the TPS foul does exactly the same thing. Try running the car without it plugged in. The fact that you can rev it without in gear suggests it's not related though.
I swear cars should have air/fuel ratio gauges installed in them from the factory, you can learn a lot from them.
And yes, the AFM could be the problem.
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Looks like you'd have flat top pistons, but CR is only 8.52:1 I would say it's safe to add pleanty of boost to that. Like you've heard, just watch your air/fuel ratios and all will be well.
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DIY_EFI and EFI332 sound very interesting. I've done some programming with Motorola 8 bit processors before. The EFI332 system is based on a Motorola 32 bit processor. Might be worth learning.
I was thinking that an OS like Linux that has far less over head could be pretty reliable. You can also give very high prioity to any jobs you'd like.
Well, I may wire up my computer to read in the inputs, just use it for data logging. I think others could find this useful.
As for the AEM product, you should know I'm running an AEM Wolf3D under the hood of my `72 240Z with 7M-GTE. Still needs tuning, and the engine needs a drive line. I spent $1500 total (shipped + taxes) for a harness, temp sensors, control unit, hand held LCD display/programmer, PC cables, modified cam possition sensor. If I had another $1500 to dump into my `73 L24ET then I'd go with the Wolf3D system again. I could just buy another harness/sensors for $200 and swap the control unit, has memory moduls to make this easy to do, but that would make the car hard to sell if I ever wanted to
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The joystick port is capable of reading 4 potentia meters 0-5V, which could be used for reading the head temp, AFM, O2, and air temp analog sensors. It converts the voltage into pulses (using a multi-vibrator
) that can be converted into a digital resistance number.It also has 4 digital inputs and one could be used for the crank trigger input.
The joystick port does not have out put capabilities so a serial port could be used to fire ignition, and injectors.
If something like this were possible then multi coil packs could be used.
Can anyone foresee synchronization problems? It's not like you have to wait for a device on the receiving end of the serial device to accept the signal. The injectors or the coil igniter would simply switch immediately. Keeping the program real time would have to be the key, using multi threading.
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Anyone ever heard of someone writing a program on a personal computer, like for a laptop that read/modify fuel maps? I'm a programmer, haven't messed very much with serial ports, or parallel ports, but I think it could be done, if the parellel port and processing was fast enough. Any other programmers here that might be able to help in this idea?
I do know that the ports on the PC use +5V or 0V as on and off signals, a coil igniter could be used to quickly turn that low amperage +5V into a higher amperage +12V.
With the amount of money people spend on stand alone engine management hardware they could afford a pretty good laptop that is much more versitile (mobile multi media to name one nice feature). It would be awesome if all we needed was a wiring harness, a couple sensors, and a commen PC laptop + software to run/tune our cars.
Anyone here think there is a better/faster port like USB that could be a better interface for communication?
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Could always rent a car for the days that you have your car down, and drive that rent a car to the ground, hehe..
Still would be saving money.Just installed a set of the Merker XR4Ti/SVO injectors in my L24ET (orange 240Z), and they are doing fine. I was running the Mercedes 450 injectors, and they were too big. The car ran ruff, and smoked a little even with the head temp shorted out, and the AFM down pretty dang tight.
Car runs well up to 5.2K RPMS and then stumbles a bunch, which it didn't do before
, used to be very strong up to 6.1K RPM, so something to figure out. I have all the gauges to figure this out: boost, air/fuel, fuel pressure.. Wish I had a duty cycle/duration type display on this stock `83 280ZXT ECU setup, but I guess I should just break down and get a stand alone for the L24ET at some point.If the car stumbles, kinda back fires at a certain RPM does it usually mean you're running rich if the car doesn't detonate? I've felt the car detonate before, and this was different, just feels like a rev limiter.
Before I think it used to crap out at 6.1K RPMs because the ignition system couldn't keep up, or could I be floating the valves (stock high mileage P90 head). I've only got the 8mm rod bolts in this thing, anyone wanna guestimate as to how high I should be able to rev it before I throw something, or is there another limitation, like the valve springs? I'm running around 10 psi of boost, without an intercooler CR is 7.56:1. Timing is set to around 10 degrees after TDC. I've got an intercooler that needs end pipes welded on, I have the pipes, if someone can do the work for me at a good price please let me know.
, used to be very strong up to 6.1K RPM, so something to figure out. I have all the gauges to figure this out: boost, air/fuel, fuel pressure.. Wish I had a duty cycle/duration type display on this stock `83 280ZXT ECU setup, but I guess I should just break down and get a stand alone for the L24ET at some point.
turbo zx engine
in Trouble Shooting / General Engine
Posted
WOW that's a lot of miles!! Maybe you didn't mean to put that 'k' at the end there
Sounds like it might be running a little rich. This could be caused by the AFM spring loosening up over time. I'm not sure if having the head temp sensor unplugged would allow you to drive your car very well, but I guess there is a possibility of it not getting a good connection.
I'd just take off the AFM black plastic cover (usually need a knife to break the seal), then loosen up the nut that holds the tention gear in place while holding the gear with your other hand so it doesn't wheel free, then give it a 1/8 to a 1/4 turn clock wise and see if that makes the car run better.
I may be wrong, there are lots of other possibilities, like the smoke could be from warn valve guides that are hard until the car heats up. And then the ruff idle could be from something else, like just from being warn, stuffed up exhaust, stuffed up air filter, or fuel filter, or timing being off. The air temp sensor in the AFM could be off, or the o2 sensor could use a replacing. Just tons of things to consider. A fresh 3 way valve job on a high mileage engine can really make a difference.
If you have to smog your car, did it pass last time without a problem? When was the last time you had it smogged? If you don't have to smog your car then maybe you should have a mechanic with one of those O2 sniffers adjust things properly for you. An Air/Fuel Ratio gauge can help you set your own car up, if your O2 sensor is in good shape. I just replaced the OEM O2 sensor in my car with a Bosch brand and this new one is much more touchy, and better at giving a reading. I like it a lot. Cost $35 with taxes at AutoZone.