Tony240ZT
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Posts posted by Tony240ZT
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I have a working 280zx turbo air flow meter. I don't have another distributor drive gear though. Sucks that they are different huh?
Email me and let me know how much the AFM is worth to you, and if you'd like for me to bead blast the case. I did have to pay for it at one point so it is worth its value to me.
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Easy bolt in. Better to go with the turbo computer and other electronics.
Do all Z engines interchange? Well, anything is possible with a bit of fabricating. If you take a look around the site here I think you will get an understanding what Z guys are willing to do with metal to get monster power into these light cars.
All L series engines are direct bolt ins for `70-`83, but don't count anything out of that specrum out of powering your Z car.
Visit my web page, under the `73 L24ET for a bit of info on wiring.
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JT what electronics system are you using? Which year?
I'm very familiar with the `82-`83 turbo system, so let me know.
If you you're not running the `82-`83 turbo setup I have everything except for the harness to do the swap.
Also have everything to do the Z31 Turbo swap except for the harness.. There is a `84 turbo here with a pretty much complete harness that I'm thinking about grabbing.
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Should be less than $20 at your local serve yourself yard. Make sure the wiring on your car is good first. I think there is a switch mounted in the thermostat housing, that should be checked as well.
If you take it out, hook up some presured liquid then apply 12V accross the terminals it should shoot the liquid out.
Car should start up a lot easier after you get it fixed.
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My `72 3 speed auto tranny is really pissed off about all of this power I'm putting to it with the L24ET. I've heard that the Mitsubishi conquest/starion 4 speed tranny will swap over if I grab the bell housing from a nissan maxima with the L28 engine.
Does anyone know what else is involved? Like what do I have to do to make the drive shaft fit? Which drive shaft should I use and what do I have to do to it? Is everything pretty much bolt on or do I have to fabricate/modify anything? How about the mount, how much different is it, will I simply have to go foward or back about an inch, or is it a lot different? Will it fit in the tunnel just fine, and is it easy to get the shifter in the right spot? Do I use the tranny out of the fuel injected cars with the body flares or the ones before where they were carberuated? Does it matter?
Do you guys know the stall point of the converter? As far as I can tell the one on the `72's is at 2K RPM, but actually it slips when I power brake it, so hard to tell.
Also, if I'm slipping this 3 speed, getting it warm and such, what kind of life expactancy should I expect. I think I'm putting out around 220 at the crank (estimate). I would prefer to not be left on the side of the road because of it, and I've never had one fail on me. Do they just keep slipping more and more as they get worse, or will it just break on me?
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I'm curious what the core deminsions are. I think HKS offers some intercoolers for other cars that would better use the space up front. The MKIV Supra one looks very nice, and the MKIII one is okay, the Japanese MKIII one like the one I have on my `72 has different end pipes and works better in the Z car.
For the price I would have a local place make you up the piping and install a larger one. With the money you save you could be half way into investing for a MIG welder with aluminum welding capabilities to make a custom core/end pipes.
My IC pipes are just about completed, took a while to get the correct hose fittings/clamps in.
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I'm getting close to putting out a CD to explain the wiring along with everything else needed to know for FI/Turbo charging a L6..
Best bet right now is to do what I did, look through the wiring harness diagram in the back of the haynes manual. The ECU gets its power through one of the chassis plugs, also there is the coil trigger that goes through the chassis plug. You can choose to use the fuel pump modulator or wire it up directly like I did.
Visit my web page, and go to my L24ET site under the `73, it should help you a little.
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Get the 1 volt type, not the 5 volt..
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I don't know why I didn't think of that myself. That might solve the problem I've been having where it seems to run crappy except under full boost. The only time it really needs to be lean is when I'm under a lot of load.
I wish I had an electrical vacuum switch of some sort. Is there a such thing out there? A switch that would switch at a set amount of vacuum or presure?
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I've never seen or heard of any road side testing here in CA. I guess I've had good luck, the `87 Surpa Turbo is usually running a test pipe, and block offs for the EGR.
As for my `72 with the 7m-gte, and the `73 with the L24ET (they'd go wtf is this mutant?) I'd rather not have to go through the dmv stuff. My japanese low milage imported engine didn't come with emissions, and I'd rather not pay to have to clutter up my engine compartment. It'll be running cleaner than the L24 with SU's on it, that's for sure, with the crank fire sequential FI system. Even if I wasn't running EFI and had a V8 with a carb I'd probably be running cleaner than some of these people that don't know how to tune their SU's, or just have a warn set.
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The polished intake manifold and valve covers look very nice. Very clean install!
What's left to do before the car is on the road?
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Awesome. I'd love to see a picture of how your welding goes on the drive shaft.
You're going to have to put some phat tires on the back of that thing now
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Good idea, I'll look around for that type, or maybe I can get something to convert the one I have into that type.
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Okay guys, nuff talkin about it, time to prove I'm not all talk. Turns out the Yellow/Red wire is the one that sends the signal to the ECU. I don't have my notes in front of me right now, but the voltage starts out at around 8.2V and then falls off nearing 0 V..
I haven't had a mounting case for my air/fuel gauge, so I thought that would be a good thing to take care of. I've never messed around with fiberglass before and thought it would be fun to make a little gauge pod that I could then install the tuning hardware.
Currently have a single potentia meter with an on/off switch that I bought from radio shack. Used the on/off switch part to power a small light. Plan on having two nobs (that's why I have two lights), one for leaning things out and one for richening. I couldn't think of an easy way to put them into one nob. I'm still working on the amount of resistance needed. I picked up a 5K ohm one and it hardly changes a thing. It drops the voltage only about .2 volts, so I'll be trying out a larger one when radio shack opens back up.
Thinking of running my cable down into the defrost air duct back there, if anyone else has a better idea let me know.
In the picture the car is cold and that's why it's running to the lean side, after warmed up it runs rich, which has been costing me a lot for gas. I figure installing the lean nob and setting it up correctly should save me a lot in gas money. After dropping in the Mercedes 450SL injectors I can't adjust my AFM to run lean enough, and I get only around 9-10mpg!!! Not to mention I smell of raw gas after getting out of the car after a drive.
I'd be interested in other people who have made custom gauge pods.
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You're doing a very clean restore. Looks like a lot of fun to me.
Who did the gauge faces for you? They turned out looking really nice. I expecially like the tach.
What color is the body going to be? It's hard to tell for the pictures. Looks like it might be a redish orange, or full on red.
Did you polish out the valve cover or did you have it chrome plated?
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There isn't much metal there. I went in a little side ways with the 1/4" NPT drill and tap to get a little more meat. I too am running a turbo setup, and ran into the same problem. I just left the PVC on the side of the crank open to vent.
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5spd will bolt right in, no problems.
Tank is totally different. Get one from a `75 280Z, or move your fuel pickup to where the drain plug is, or use a small tank to feed off of.
Check out the wiring diagram in the haynes manual, trace the wires that get plugged in under the dash, and there are a couple wires that go over to the passenger side of the car (near the battery) that need + power given to them.
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If you're still thinking about going turbo I can help with wiring. I've done the swap into my `73. I haven't run the car down the 1/4mile yet, but am expecting mid 13's, and it's just a little L24 with a P90 head on it.
I'm thinking of putting together a detailed PC CD-ROM with information, pictures and possibly videos and selling them cheaply. Would also contain info on getting more horse power out of your turbo L6. Think people would be interested? You might be surprised that it is easier to tune and keep in tune a FI setup than carbs. Being in the high 12's in the 1/4 are possible with no internal engine mods with a well setup stock turbo system.
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Start accumlating some parts, such as a turbo exhaust manifold, a t3 turbo charger, oil fittings and lines, a turbo oil pan (or you can weld a return hole on your stock one), you may want to go with the turbo oil pump, a oil cooler would be good (get an Earl's sandwich plate to hookup the lines, PermaCool has one too. 280ZXTurbos with auto trannies have the adapters). You will need to fabricate a down pipe, or go with the stainless steel one that ScottieGNZ has if he still has one. You will want to go with at least the 280ZX Turbo injectors.
Since you're going cheap you can stick with your stock long block, instake manifold, and throttle body. I would suggest at least getting a throttle body off of a 300ZX (Z31) which is 5mm larger, and less cluttered with vacuum hoses.
I would suggest getting an Air/Fuel meter gauge to monitor your mixture, and a boost gauge if you plan to mess around with that. You need to make it so that your distributor doesn't advance under higher rpms. You can do this by removing the vacuum advance, and the internal weights. Retard your timing quite a bit.
Using your stock head, and NA engine management is not the most ideal setup for turbo applications, but will work for a cheap setup. It will be the largest increase in power that you can do for under $400. If you rebuild your turbo yourself, know how to do a bit of welding and fabricating it is possible you could do it for less.
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I was thinking about how the SDS has that adjustable nob for lean/richness. I'm assuming it's a potentia meter adding resistance to the wire that tells the computer how much fuel to supply the engine.
Couldn't the same idea be used with the stock 280ZX Turbo AFM. I know when you unplug the AFM the car runs as rich as possible, and this would be a situation where there is unlimited resistance between two wires, but which ones? If I were to tap into the wire that is sending the signal back to the ecu, put an adjustable potentiameter in there couldn't I richen the mixture? I could even set the AFM to initially run lean, then dial my POT to make the car run stoich, that way I have adjustment on both sides of the spectrum.
Now, I may be getting old and lazy because I don't want to get out of my car and adjust it in the engine compartment, but really, I think that having this sort of adjustment in the cabin could be usefull.
Let me know what you guys think, and if you know which wire is the sending wire for the AFM possition.
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Scotty, I'm getting a turbo AFM sent out to me and it should be here sometime this week, let me know if you are interested.
Did you mess with that bypass screw? I'm guessing the AFM has some built in resistance that it shouldn't have. Could try rubbing the surfaces and see if that helps.
I also have a `85 300ZX Turbo AFM, and ECU. I know you don't want to put anymore money into the truck, but keep it in mind for later down the road. I don't think I'll be using the 300ZXT stuff because of the lack of adjustability in the AFM.
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Unbolt the EGR and plug up the holes. Won't hurt anything, just emissions. I guess a quick over view of what the EGR system actually does is inject hot exhaust so that there is a more complete burn. Fuel that is ignited real close to the heat absobers (pistons, side walls, head) in the combustion chamber cools off too quickly to get burned well, the hot air helps rid of that. The amount of fuel that is unburned is not a great deal, and in no way hurts performance. I believe the heat added actually takes away performance, but also, not very much.
On my `73 240Z with 280ZX Turbo electronics/turbo charger, I didn't use that vacuum box at all. My intake manifold doesn't have an EGR port, and I don't use the idle control selonoid. The car idles just fine with a crack of the throttle body, it even starts right up in the morning with no problem.
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Thanks Scotty, seriously 225hp would be nice in this car since it doesn't have upgraded brakes or suspention. It's like my beater turbo z, chipped paint, primer, unmatched hood, bent antena. At least it drives strait and doesn't have any rust.
As for the `72 with the toyota engine something would have to be very wrong with it if that's all I was getting out of it.
Thinking of selling my `87 Supra Turbo, so the `73 orange car has to be at least as quick as the supra was.
There were some fast Hondas out here in Bakersfield, CA for the Battle of Import at Famoso drag strip. I'll post some pictures of the event, ran into our friend SSS510 who was running out there, but had traction issues (too much power)
Most all of the modified cars were running turbos, made me want to crank up the boost.
She's a different animal now!
in Turbo / Supercharger
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I run 10 pounds all day long on 91 octane on my L24ET, but my compression ratio is only 7.56:1
Get that electric fan installed in there, and mount that intercooler, then do some more supporting mods to add a few more pounds. Then you'll have this grin that will be hard to wipe off.